Let’s get this sailboat bulkhead replaced! - E024

The bulkhead replacement takes a turn…
Special Thanks to John Kretschmer for stopping in to offer some thoughts.
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• Restoring the Antidote.
Catch the whole Bulkhead Replacement Journey:
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• I QUIT! … to fix up an...
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KZbin Video URL: • Let’s get this sailboa...
Video hashtags:
#livingforsail #boatwork #sailboatrefit

[@livingforsail]

Let's here your PRISM stories! Do yours leak? What have you tried to remedy that? Would you rather just eliminate them, or keep them?

[@tobyduncan6150]

I always say, "If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing." You could use this as an opportunity to get some practice with fiberglass mold making. Flip the prism upside down, spray some PVA on it, and use it as the basis for a mold to make prism fittings that would function similarly to the bronze fittings. If you're wanting to avoid through bolting the flange, you'd need to imbed some threaded hardware.

[@SimonElenor]

​@@tobyduncan6150DANG IT! You beat me to it. Yeah best way. Also once you have a working mold, sell them.

[@alanmcn17]

Well I guess if it’s worth doing …it’s worth overdoing!! 😂😂 excellent work this might be the best well built boat in all of the sea

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Well, not many have accused me of rushing or cutting corners yet… 🤣

[@andrewbermel1099]

to house the prism, you could take some of the old teak deck, plane it, and build it up with some pretty joinery, and have a raised portion, that you can look at to remind you of how many screws you removed....

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the idea. I love teak but I’m trying to have less of it in my life… at least up on deck. That’s my practical side talking… My sentimental and creative sides really like the idea! 🙌👍🙏

[@andrewbermel1099]

dude....wow. keep it up! what you are doing is special.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you so much. I really like the way you put that. 🙏🙏🙏

[@DWAJarrett]

Yes it's a problem with prisms rebated at the top. Sell them and buy flushed top ones. Create a glass box insitu and use structural glass adhesive and don't use the bronze edging.

[@livingforsail]

Interesting idea. I’ll have to try to dig up some info on the glass that you’re referring to. I’m ok with using structural adhesive if it’s done correctly… if it’s good enough for skyscrapers… 😳 🙌👍

[@DWAJarrett]

The flushed top ones I was refering to were the same as the type you showed for magic carpet👍

[@denislamadeleine1181]

Another fantastic episode John. I love the Bob Ross impression. Those mountains did look very happy. As far as the prisms go, nothing looks better than bronze on a sailboat. As I have no experience with prisms, my opinion is merely for aesthetics. Cheers!

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Thanks ! 🙏 I’m glad someone enjoyed the Bob Ross bit… I like bronze too. A very cool material. Green bronze hardware looks better IMHO on a salty boat like a Hans Christian with a big bowsprit. Antidote is kind of an odd hybrid, not quite modern, not quite classic… we will see. Thanks as always for the feedback!!! 🙏👍🙌

[@kenyonstewart7120]

I'm a little late on this one, I would say you really have to think about how much light those prisms really bring in. Leaks suck and can really make a hard passage that much worse if everything down below is soaked in salt water. When it's stormy and shitty out and you are short-handed, it helps a lot to come off watch and get into a dry bunk and get some rest! One of my favorite things about some of these aluminum boats is that they have no deck penetrations, everything is welded, not through-bolted.

[@livingforsail]

Some good points here. My goal is to (if I keep them) make them as leaky as possible resistant as possible, and failing that, as easy to re-bed as possible. Thankfully none of them are above any of the bunks. 🙏👍🙌

[@carlthor91]

Because of you deck construction, you might find that the G10 square, epoxied into the deck, with quality butyl, to seal the prism to the G10, then frame to hold the prism down, with more butyl, to cushion the prism, from the top frame. Best wishes from Northern Manitoba.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the input. 🙏. Where about’s in northern Manitoba? I used to head up to Thompson for work occasionally…

[@carlthor91]

@@livingforsailYou got it in one.

[@jimlofts5433]

- Aussie slang - that bulkhead is built like a "brick" shiitehouse - Exceptionally well constructed; strong or tough; overbuilt or overengineered.

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Yes… it certainly is. 🤣😳

[@nutsandbolts432]

Bronze certainly has a “classic boat” feel to it, and would work great. G10 will have a more modern feel to the esthetic, but would also work great. Just depends on the overall vibe you want to achieve.

[@livingforsail]

There is a mix of bronze and stainless on the topside of the boat… I probably can’t really go wrong… 🤔🤷‍♂️

[@MaShcode]

I like the idea of designing a G10 prism case over bronze. G11 can withstand higher temps which may or may not be something to consider. As far as water tight bulkheads go, keep in mind documenting your refit also adds to resale value.

[@livingforsail]

I like that G10 can be drilled and tapped (in theory… I should probably try it one of these days. Haha) Interesting point about resale… “here is a recent survey and also 100 hours of KZbin videos to catch up on. 😳” Thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍

[@pmnfernando]

its not theory, ive tapped it to apply 316 metal inserts which will be the final thread where the bolt will anchor actually i will do it in my foward watertight bullkhead that ive built out of 6mm G10, to secure the hatch (which is nothing than the cutout with some lips laminated)@@livingforsail

[@martyb3783]

Looking great! I can not give you any intelligent advice regarding how to set the prisms. Sorry. But I will say you have to keep them. They are beautiful, add character to the boat and will provide lots of light. Great video as always.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback as always! Cheers! 🙏🙌👍

[@ralph6115]

Hehe, loved the Bob Ross bit!

[@livingforsail]

Haha. I’m glad that wasn’t lost on everyone! 🤣. We watched him a lot growing up.

[@ralph6115]

@@livingforsailMy wife's an artist and Bob is our (bottom) benchmark.:)

[@meestahwah]

I honestly think G-10 is overkill, unless the thought process is to tap the G-10 and use machine screws. I like deck prisms as they honestly bring a LOT of light into the cabin below. I have a friend with the grapefruit ones and I am comstalynreturning to the cabins to check and see if I left a light on!

[@livingforsail]

You are correct. I’m mainly interested in it for the ability to drill/tap and use machine screws with nowhere for any water to go if it leeks past a fastener. 👍

[@robertmstarr9028]

I think you'll be very happy to retain the prisms. Bronze is always a "salty" choice, but it isn't cheap. I don't know that the G10 is any cheaper -- is the "cost" of the fabrication time more than the cost of the bronze? Do you save time or labor with the bronze? Which will be more leak or moisture resistant? Which do you actually like best? (Some choices are strictly a matter of personal preference.)

[@livingforsail]

I would like to try to keep them. I think you’re right that I’ll be happy with that decision. I have a few things to consider here…

[@Tichondriusbiker]

G10 … if assuming in the end it is glassed, then it will be monolithic.

[@livingforsail]

That’s my thinking. Cheers! Thanks! 🙏👍

[@omna826]

Well in my glorious life im a firm believer in the kISS formula "keep it simple stupid" so do as you must

[@livingforsail]

I’ve heard that but seem to always fall into “there has to be a harder way?!” 😳🤣

[@davidblackburn3257]

My knowledge regarding the prisms is miniscule. I don't think a perfect solution exists for any part of your rebuild unless you quit sailing, got a perm & started painting landscapes, ha-ha. You're making great decisions that are well thought through. Keep up the great work!

[@livingforsail]

Haha! This comment had me laughing… and looking up the cost for a perm… I might need to grow it out a bit first for the full effect… Thanks for the input! 👍👍🙌🙏

[@angeltyson1966]

Well, if you’re putting bronze accent back into the boat, then yes, go with the bronze if not, go with the third option of the thinner plate

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback! 👍🙏🙌

[@soytaino1]

hey man love the project. i have a small catamaran that i restored to day cruise but someday I hope to build a shed myself and restore a sailboat. so i’m taking notes sort of speak. just food for thought. i’m m thinking on that forward bulkhead maybe building an emergency door that can be latched to make it 100 watertight in case you hit a container n the middle of the night.whether it is in permanent hinges from above or placed aside in case of an emergency or to be closed off on overnight sails.. maybe it would be a good idea. I have the tendency to over engineer things.. God speed , keep up the good work

[@livingforsail]

Hi. Thank you 🙏. I am thinking I will have a door for it too. Like you mentioned, it will probably just be in place as part of the “make ready for passage” checklist. 👍🙌

[@johnvoss3336]

I think I’d prefer to keep the bronze prism plates, maybe coosa board instead of G10. It would be easier to work with.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback! 👍🙌🙏

[@stephenauty2402]

That epoxy work for the gland fitting was really funky if not incredibly time consuming. Any ideas roughly how many hours you spent creating that? Was the main reason to protect the bulkhead wood from being exposed ? Amazing work .

[@livingforsail]

Thanks. 🙏. The whole job would have been under 2 hours start to finish. It was a little longer to film everything 😉. My thinking is that if I don’t provide anywhere for water to get into the core, I’ll have less issues down the road. Water gets EVERYWHERE. Haha. 👍🙌

[@Chris_in_fremantle]

So much fun watching your progress. Well done.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying the series. 🙏👍🙌

[@pmnfernando]

about the prisms: the first thing to do would be to rip out the teak deck (and i mean the whole teak deck). you will be glad you did it in a few years. i dont know if your deck is cored or solid but if its cored, replace the surrounding area it with something that is closed cell and maybe a G10 frame glassed from the inside so that the prism itself ends up lower than the actual deck (if i understood this to be your objective) laminate over the new closed cell material on top, fair, sand, fair and sand again, bed and bolt the prism. i would be wary of it collecting water so i would actually apply the prism in the opposite fashion: so that water runs off of it. to the expense of hurting my feet on it, but boats are synonyms for compromises!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the insights. 🙏 I think that’s a good point that being slightly proud is probably favorable to avoid pooling. 👍🙌

[@bishopkinlyside8477]

Hi, always amazes me that people are still using the old metric way inches etc etc once you use metric you’re never go back on 14 February 1966 Australia changed and I thank God we did so much easier to you anyway you keep doing what you’re doing. Keep up the good work from Australia the big island

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Yeah. I don’t really get it we used a mix bag here but for building stuff it’s still inches and feet. 🤷‍♂️… thanks for watching. 🙏

[@conradlogan5201]

Enjoyed the added input from John Kretchmer (he really was a bonus on Atticus a while back too) As for the bulkhead,,, my mind was thinking there was an opportunity to sandwich in some cloth between those two sheets. Maybe even carbon? But this is only speculation from a mostly ignorant perspective Nice work!!

[@livingforsail]

Glad you enjoyed it. You could put glass in the middle. It probably serves you best on the outside as it gives more strength to the fiberglass “sandwich” when it’s on the skins. Thanks for the feedback! 🙏🙌👍

[@conradlogan5201]

@@livingforsail thanks! I appreciate the feedback and opportunity to learn the WHY

[@ahmetsezai]

Good work John!

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! 🙏👍🙌

[@svbodaciousliberty2884]

Best bulkhead ever!

[@livingforsail]

Haha. It’s definitely better than what was there.🙏🙌👍

[@BarkTheAlliedGiant]

You do beautiful work John! Your ideas on the prism seem pretty neat. I don't understand all the details involved. But, could you utilize some elastomer sheet to gasket the prism? Or, are elastomers just not used on boats? Either way, I'm sure you'll come up with a design that is very well thought out and super robust!

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! 🙏 An elastomer sheet is an interesting idea. It sounds promising. 👍🙌

[@robertgold2643]

Great episode as always. I’d say go with the g-10 for the prisms, like materials and all. Also, the aesthetic of Antidote is quite different from MCll per your request for opinions. You are a brave man…..

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Thanks. I agree that Antidote’s aesthetic is a bit different than MC2. It’s a bit of an odd blend of old and new-ish. There is some, but not a lot, of bronze on the topsides…

[@danknox9986]

I like the G10 idea. But nowadays with the very low cost of LED lighting these are more of an expensive luxury item than something that is utilitarian in nature. Good luck.

[@mr.e7022]

Agree with the use of LED lighting. Ditch the prisms so there will be fewer holes in your boat.

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, it’s a good point… there are some great LEDs out there… there is something about natural light though… 🤔 Thanks for the feedback 🙏👍

[@livingforsail]

That would likely save some time too. 🙌🤔 Thanks for the feedback. 🙏

[@andrewmoylan6295]

G'day Jon, looking great mate, Love Kretchmers books, his journey around capehorn as a young guy in a small 34 ft Contessa 'Gigi' is legendary stuff. Go with the G10 prism platform, which is Canadian engineering stuff 😂

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Thanks! 🙏 yeah, Kretschmer is the man! Thanks for watching another one! 🙌🙌

[@andrewmoylan6295]

@livingforsail You probably could have used the Coosa board for bulkhead material as well.Its water repellent properties! It certainly would have stiffened it up and maybe allowed a bit bigger opening for you . We're not getting any younger Jon.

[@gilbertmarshall7957]

I'm facing the same issue after removing the teak on my Trintella. Fitting the brass plate flush should look great, but it would be a lot of extra work and introduce more complexity and potential leaks, I would think. My plan is just to replicate the old setup, with the brass plate bolted down onto the deck, and epoxy encapsulated ply below supporting the prisms. Both of mine leaked and have damaged the foam core slightly.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for chiming in. We will see… I know for sure that John Kretschmer covered his prisms when he redid his deck after pulling the teak off. I should ask him if he misses the prisms…

[@johnharris2337]

The Incredible Bulk! Will you have a blank/ plug handy to cover the hole in the bulkhead in case of a leak? The plug on the bow side. Even if it’s Patti ally water tight it would still be handy I did speak to a sailor who hit an object healed over, it was above the waterline, it was in high seas so was coming through the bulkhead hole. He nailed his nice expensive table to keep the water out…. It was a long sail. That’s funny… you talk on this issue later

[@livingforsail]

I am thinking that I will make a cover for the opening that I can stow and put in place if I need the ability to keep water out. Crazy story! Did it all work out in the end?

[@johnharris2337]

Yes he made it accross the Atlantic. He built a plug that opened on a strong hinge at the top with some through butterfly bolts at the bottom,, it wasn’t completely water tight but slowed things down, he also beefed the support on the inboard side with a couple of crossbeams to support the top and bottom joins in the middle of the bulkhead.

[@jimlofts5433]

too late now but another way would have been to just put some large "bolts or threaded rod" of stainless or brass that can handle the current thru the bulkhead and fix the cables either side of the bulkhead

[@livingforsail]

Interesting idea… stainless would be a no go as it’s a pretty bad conductor it brass could work… of course, “there’s always a harder way?!” 😉 🙌👍

[@alanmcn17]

I’m a rookie so take what I say with a huge grain of salt but if you came up with an easy design that could easily be rebedded every two or three years as part of your maintenance program that might be the easiest and long lasting?

[@livingforsail]

I think a plan that can be maintained somewhat regularly is the way to go too. Thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍🙌

[@bdphourde]

Wouldn't stainless steel be a little cheaper than bronze for your deck prisms? I didn't follow the problems with "machining" the G-10 for a facing, but either might be better than the bronze which will require some frequent "shining" to keep it looking good. But I say KEEP the prisms. They let in a lot of light!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback. 🙏 I really like the natural light. I think I’ll find a way… cheers! 🙌👍

[@radualin1]

bravooo

[@livingforsail]

Thank yooooou! 🙏🙏🙏

[@danknox9986]

You are doing excellent work but it been about a year and you are still working on the anchor locker. Are you concerned you won’t live long enough to finish the boat? Just kidding but don’t you think this job could have been done to an adequate standard two or three days? Best wishes.

[@livingforsail]

It’s crossed my mind 🤣.

[@bridgetcongo8415]

@danknox9986 RIIGHT!!! No one is more worried about this than me haha 👀 Welcome to the club!!! Someone send help!!! No but really - he is doing everything by himself. Video set-up, video review, editing, sound engineering, diagram rendering, and also all the boat work. I wish I could help more. If ya'll have any ideas about speeding up video editing send them over please!! Making the videos is taking SO.MUCH time!!

[@markbuskens6070]

Lol,Exactly almost word for word what I said 6 months ago.The new bulkhead will definitely keep water out for at least 5 years 🥴or forever in the driveway

[@livingforsail]

KZbin pays by the hour…

[@jvodan]

Instead of machining G10 to shape why not cast epoxy thicken with microfibers and chopped fibres. basically home made G10, while not quite as strong it will still be stronger than the surrounding material. Sure you have to make a mold but I gather you have several prisms to install

[@livingforsail]

There are 6. It’s an interesting idea that I will consider and look into more. Thank you. 🙏. I appreciate the feedback. 👍🙌

[@pauld9530]

G10 option i think

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍🙌

[@garyday4356]

I can machine them I have a cnc shop and would only charge for materials

[@livingforsail]

That’s really generous! I’d be interested to chat more about that. If you’re serious about the offer, send me an email (it’s in the video description “contact me” section) and we can maybe figure out a plan. Thank you! 🙏👍🙌

[@garyday4356]

@@livingforsail done

[@CraigOverend]

I'd rather double skin the hull in critical areas than have water tight bulkheads.

[@livingforsail]

👍

[@stevemcardle2013]

G10.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks ! 🙏🙏

[@davidwarnes5158]

Why didn't you take the opportunity to improve access to the chain locker , false floor and water exit out of the side , that space can take a ton of water through the deck hole and only get pumped out from the bilge , and bilge pump. You could have made a chain locker with above the waterline drain., access from the deck . Shame you don't get experience from a book.

[@livingforsail]

kzbin.info/aero/PLtx2ax0GHEtB2Gk8XvROjLWjYNNcmK6tO

[@livingforsail]

BOB PERRY Yachts Talks Design and Refit Strategies kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJXZc4WrqNCCbNU

[@davidwarnes5158]

@@livingforsail looks like they are still in the past and not moving forward , you will have modern safe electronics , why not safety and keep water out, one fuse and no more bilge pump.

[@livingforsail]

​​⁠everything is a compromise on a boat. I have reasoned that IF my plan does not work out as I’d hoped for that it will be easier to raise the floor and drill a hole than go the other way.@@davidwarnes5158

[@mtrezaie]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGWcko2LrpWKa5I Who are you calling human? Had not heard this phrase for such a long time.

[@markbuskens6070]

Is it possible to be super smart but everything he does or build or plan to do seems unachievable without a naval architect or a sailing novelist reassuring him that he’s doing the right thing?I guess there’s no door going to the front V-berth??Oh it won’t fit through the main hatch🥴John you must be suffering from lack of sleep lying awake engineering the hardest most time consuming and expensive way to fix everything on your sailboat.Why plywood instead of Coosa?You know water could probably travel inside the wires that penetrate that bulkhead.If water gets up that high you are already sunk🤓just a little something to think about 😜

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll think about it 😉 after I run it by one of the experts 🙌

[@markbuskens6070]

Good idea😊

[@user-fe8gl2zs7p]

"i'm an Engineer and a Sailor . . . ." This hole is a little bit more than a 1/2 and less than 3/4. Really?

[@garyf8790]

😂

[@livingforsail]

🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

[@bake162]

Keeps us thinking for ourselves 😂

[@fisheater844]

Go metric