M113 engine rebuild - Part 11 - Turbo Crankshaft & New Rods + Piston installed.

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M113 Crankshaft & New Rods + Piston installed
Got the mainbearing caps removed. Rods and pistons are ready to install. Only thing i needed to do was measuring the piston ring vertical play and the crankshaft axial bearing play. This was all in factory spec.
I cleaned for the last time the bearings and blow through the oil channels. Before putting the Crankshaft in the top bearing housings i pre-lube the shell with assembly lube. This will keep the engine from running Dry when i start the engine for the first time on the starter motor. Before all the oil gallery's are filled it can take up 1 min.
The lower bearing shell are placed and the new bolts are pre lube with engine oil. All caps are put on torque according factory spec and sequence.
Next are the pistons and rods. Im placing the journal on the lowest point when sliding in the piston with the rod. So it is already in the position that i can place the bearing cap and put the bolts on torque. Without moving the crankshaft. When moving the crankshaft with bearing cap there is a chance the bearing will slide out the housing.
The new rods need to be torque'd down to 75nm i did this in 3 steps bolts are 3/8".
Also when turning the crankshaft i can check if the new rods are running free and not touching any other objects like the oil squirters. Next thing i have checked. Is the free play between the piston and Crankshaft.
Before i got this Rods made i also thought about shorten the rods to lower the compression. I now have the oem size and compression. But when measuring the play it is only 1.5mm between piston and crankshaft . So this much room is no left. See photos below
for any questions just ask
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[@ebutuoyebutouy]

A bunch of work! Thanks for sharing.

[@JMSpeedshop]

Thanks for watching 👍

[@BizzyVlogs]

Have been waiting a long time for this progress! My drift build is just now getting buttoned up for the next event, we have the same m113 motor but I have the 5.4- obviously you are doing a lot more with your setup. Keep it up!

[@JMSpeedshop]

Thanks . Yes. Next week i will doing more progress on rebuild

[@renebh4127]

Thans good video ! Thanks for this xeplanation for schortening the connecting rods , is not possible without processing engine parts .

[@JMSpeedshop]

Yes correct

[@dsgdddrgavin4672]

I've been wondering for a build like this on a w211, what parts inside the motor can be shared from the 5.4? and would this motor be reliable around the 400-500whp mark?

[@JMSpeedshop]

Everything imcan be changed our between a 5.4 and a 5.0. the have the same bore . The stroke is different but when changing the crank also the rods and piston needs to be changed. There are people.running with stock engine's around 500whp level. I would say more then this is gambling.

[@thelongranger55]

Where did you get new crankshaft bearings & are they all the same for the pistons to crank & crank to block ?

[@JMSpeedshop]

All from the Mercedes dealer oem parts. Crank and conrod bearings are different

[@thelongranger55]

@@JMSpeedshop thanks , I haven’t removed them yet & obviously will replace them if plastigauge test strips says to . I’m looking into re-conditioning process of Alusil cylinders and found a kit by AMTUNED with a felt pad cylinder hone & 4oz of the AN-30 sunnen paste for $170 before taxes & shipping. A proper job would require me to remove my crank & pistons / rods from the block . I don’t want to half ass it & drop the pistons to bottom dead center like some have & worry about getting the paste in the piston rings like I’ve seen some people do because they are lazy . What are your thoughts on doing this re-condition to the cylinders as a DIY solution . I will have a video soon for you to see the condition of my cylinders , I believe I have piston material on the walls & not scratches in the cylinder walls so I think it will clean up nice . My cylinders are not bad as I make it sound but still not what I want to see

[@JMSpeedshop]

Recodition the walls really determine on the condition of the walls. I have rebuild the engine but left the walls . Because the where in good condition. If you have a very high mileage engine you could consider doing it even when the look clean like 170k miles and up or so . But i personally would decide when you can see cilinder walls

[@OnlyKelp]

I will be starting a build just like this very soon, unfortunately the engine I got has very deep scoring in the cylinder wall on cylinder 4! I'm on the hunt for a new block. Do you recommend using a 5.0 block or do you think it'd be better to go with a 5.4L N/A short block? That would come with crank, pistons, and rods. I'll still be using the rest of the parts from the engine I currently have though. Thank you!

[@JMSpeedshop]

That depends on what you want to spend. A 5.0 Needs a little more boost then a 5.4 to make the same power. But a 5.4 is most of the times a little more expensive

[@OnlyKelp]

@@JMSpeedshop would the pistons you used fit the 5.4?

[@JMSpeedshop]

You can install a 5.4 crank + piston + rods in a 5.0 engine .

[@CLVannoy]

Where did you get the bearings from and how did you decide what size thank you in advance

[@JMSpeedshop]

The bearings are oem Mercedes. Theres is a code on crankshaft and on the engine with these you decide what size you order. These you mount in the main bearings and check the dimensions if the clearance is correct. The rod bearings are also factory oem spec. I think i covered this in one of the video's

[@CLVannoy]

@@JMSpeedshop excellent thank you do you remember which video you covered this in im about to rebuild a 5.4 also did you re surface your cylinder bores ?

[@JMSpeedshop]

I thought it was this video. But i will have look . I did not resurface the bore's. There where in good condition

[@CLVannoy]

@@JMSpeedshop thank you for your help and time also I have the same hat as you hahaha that metal tab in the back kills my head though….im bald hahah

[@JMSpeedshop]

I did not cover this in a video in detail i think . But you have to have the factory documentation. There is a code on the crankshaft that determine's for each main bearing cap bearing. What size you need and on the block is also a code. That determines the top bearing cap size you need.

[@pastaaaaaaaa]

is this the 4.3, 5.0, or 5.4 liter?

[@JMSpeedshop]

5.0

[@lozl]

Superb video. Very informative. Can't wait to get into my m113 project (still a few years to wait for me) Where did you get the workshop manual from??

[@JMSpeedshop]

Ebay