New Bambu Lab Printer Users - Don't Make These Mistakes

[@UBe-hhger]

Thank you for NOT playing music in the background 👍🏼

[@bestrohir]

Yeah, exactly. As I was playing my own music in the background - it helped! :-)

[@dan-nutu]

​@@bestrohirHehehe, same here!

[@illustrationmaking]

I actively look for tubers without music…. Cos then I can run my own music in a second tab :D …. Techno mainly, jus in the background

[@groznyentertainment]

bro washing the beds with soap is not "keeping it simple" you over doing it. and using glue is questionable; this stuff was used on glass plates

[@MadRC]

Thank Bro

[@HarveyFoFi]

After many years of waiting, I think Bambu Lab is going to be my first 3D printer. Thank you.

[@dingdongdaddy589]

Get an A1 mini. $249 you can’t go wrong. Add the ams later…

[@lucasperies6952]

you won't regret it

[@pedrocoimbra2174]

Same here. bougth a a1 mini you wont regret it. but buy the combo

[@hen069]

You will regret it super expensive and slow

[@lucasperies6952]

@@hen069@hen069 is literally the company that brought fast printing to the consumer market. but I'm sure your ender or prusa is much faster :) ....

[@mattlberge]

I would add don't load soft filaments like tpu in the AMS. I made that mistake precisely one time too many

[@F-Andre]

no need- Bambu says what not to use with the ams

[@jase2568]

SUPPORT filament. Fuck sake, I was totally caught out with this. I saw it in the app as well saying Supp, never clicked. What a tit haha. Didn't even know support filament was a thing so thanks for that info!!

[@stevemechamoo9475]

same lol

[@nortonnewmann3711]

Your skin (hands) contain oils... so don't rub your hands all over the build plate like he's doing here, unless your hands are squeaky clean and oil free. It's best practice to handle by the edges as much as possible.

[@aishaclanclan2808]

Totally green beginner here. Thanks so much for the tips!

[@airplanemax]

I personally found that the X1C is a bit too fast on the first layer and it does not stick. I had this problem especially small parts, bigger parts aren't a real problem. I'd recommend to everyone maybe turn their first layer speed down a bit for better quality.

[@mlordwhiteslayerfromf.u.g]

In the starter manual it suggests applying a thin layer of stick glue to the build plate before printing. I've found this to help with not only adhesion of the first layer but also the layer of dried glue helps make pealing the print off the plate when it's finished much easier. Bambu labs sells glue sticks on there website if you aren't certain what glue to get.

[@SirHackaL0t.]

Any advice for printing using an A1 mini with an iPad instead of a computer? Seems a shame to have to buy a computer just to get files onto the mini *which is arriving today)

[@punk6119]

Can confirm they have stopped shipping the glue stick with the P1S w/ams combo.

[@Cjx0r]

Double confirm

[@honda-s2k]

what a scam. no glue stick on a 850 dollar holla printer hahahahahahahahahaha.

[@punk6119]

@honda-s2k you don't need a glue stick with the included textured plate. I've ran mine for 24hr straight for 4 months without glue it works great.

[@honda-s2k]

@@punk6119 but but but I love the glue sticks to help when the tree supports some times decides to wobble. Like on super tall prints sometimes I forget that I need to slow them down... I have a elegoo Neptune 3 Max. I can go super fast until about a quarter of the way up and then I have to slow it down. Or it becomes an earthquake in San Francisco and the tree supports wobble like skyscrapers. 😂

[@suit1337]

@2:10 - the "Support for PLA" ("Support W" on older packages) is not intended for printing supports, this is missleading - it is intended for only printing solid support interface layers for PLA prints you can easily swap it out for PETG and print the support interface with those, which is much cheaper

[@MattTester]

Having had a printer before I skipped ahead a bit when I got my A1 Mini, I loaded the AMS Lite up with four Bambu PETG spools and I've had a great experience printing my own models right from the start. I've had very few issues and when using the Bambu filaments I trust that they have tested and tuned it correctly. My machine is currently 63% through a 14 hour print with 3 different colours of PETG and it's working perfectly. A couple of times I've had a blob of filament stick to the nozzle and get in the way of bed levelling, resulting in a spaghetti mess, would be interesting to know if you had the same. It could be an issue specific to PETG and its tendency to string.

[@rikhendrx]

What a timing, i just got my A1 today. And doing some test at the moment.

[@willsintheair]

Big day!!! Have fun bro! Best gear choice I’ve made in years.

[@rikhendrx]

@@willsintheair Thanks brother

[@moddok]

wait, you got PAHT-CF as sample ?!?!?! wtf ?!

[@ClaytonMacleod]

One of my samples was black PLA CF. Along with the green PLA, and white support for PLA. Haven’t actually tried the PLA CF yet. Haven’t found a project for it yet.

[@ThisRandomGuyYouDidntNotice]

soo to sum up: reduce the possible points of failure. - make sure the machine works (presliced file, intended filament) - sth self sliced (e.g. downloaded model) with same filament - try one of the models that work with another filament and as always wash your plates bud :D

[@jav74modified71]

Awesome! I’m just starting out and when my mini gets here, I definitely want to start out correctly. I did order a glue stick too even though a different review said I didn’t need it 🎃

[@uv7775]

FYI denatured alcohol does not leave residue. Thats why its used in electronics.

[@Jestey6]

Regarding “Support for PLA”. Could you consider producing a video explaining when and how to use it please?

[@ClaytonMacleod]

Doesn’t need a video. It is used for exactly one thing. Support interface. Thats where the supports and the model meet. You do NOT print your supports with it. This is extremely wasteful and counterproductive. Look in the Support tab for the section called Filament for Supports. The second option listed there, Support/raft interface, is the ONLY thing this filament should be used for. When you have supports enabled you can use this option to select which filament to use as the interface material between the supports and your model. Leave the other option, Support/raft base, set at default. Your supports will still be printed with the regular PLA, and it will only use the “Support for PLA” filament for the layers where the supports and the model touch each other. That’s all. That’s what it is meant for. It doesn’t stick to the PLA very well, which means it is super easy to separate them from each other. The sample roll they throw in should last you a VERY long time because that’s the only place it gets used, where the supports and the model touch each other. Some supports will come away very easily and you won’t need to use this stuff at all, such as when the supports and the model will barely touch each other at a fairly small spot. But it is incredibly helpful when you have a very large surface area between the supports and the model, such as when you’re supporting a very large and flat overhang area. Those kinds of supports can be a pain to remove sometimes, but with this stuff as the support interface they come apart like nothing. And if you get some of it stuck on the model side, it is very easy to peel away, as it doesn’t stick to it very well, which is what makes it perfect for that job. That said, you can get away with using PLA and PETG to do the same thing. It works almost as well, if you don’t want to buy this stuff. You use PLA for the support interface material in your PETG prints, or the other way around. They don’t stick to each other very well, and so they can substitute for this stuff. It doesn’t work as well, but almost. But it means you don’t have to have a roll of this stuff kicking around all the time for just this purpose alone.

[@Jestey6]

@@ClaytonMacleod thanks for that, very informative and helpful.

[@ClaytonMacleod]

@@Jestey6 Probably wouldn't hurt to mention what the purpose of the first setting in that section is. Say you have a model that's complicated, from a printing standpoint, and would need supports in some interior area that you really couldn't extract supports from because you can't easily reach it, or reach it at all. Then what? YOLO and see how it turns out without supports? You could, yes, hehe. Or you could use a material called PVA to print just the supports. You can use that stuff for supports anywhere inside a model, and you don't need to worry about removing them. They're water-soluble, and your only concern for removing them is "Can water get in and out of that region of the model?" So you set the PVA as the Support/raft base material in the first setting of that section, and print your model. Once it is done printing you simply soak it in water long enough for the PVA to dissolve and wash away.

[@ClaytonMacleod]

@@digital_feline Yeah, just a cost of using the feature. One I'll happily pay for parts that separate way more easily, and look way better.

[@burgienl]

My X1 carbon AMS combo came with the textured PEI plate. Problem is that the small manual doesn't mention the different plates. It just says put the glue from the small packages on the plate and print. Well, the first layer simply would not stick to the plate. I ended up washing the plate to remove the glue and raising the print temp bed to 60 degrees celcius. After that the PLA prints came out beautiful.

[@bploan8464]

Bloody brilliant... I'm waiting on my printer to arrive and for the life of me I haven't a clue so all these tips were very welcome... got yourself a new sub for sure

[@CatInSpace]

I didn't get any of the filament sample or glue stick for my A1 combo

[@chairzombie8378]

My X1C came with a textured PEI plate, so maybe the newer ones ship with that now instead of the cool plate. Didn't come with a glue stick either. I'm a simple man and I just use hairspray on my modded ender 3 v2 PEI sheet if I need more release like with TPU or PETG

[@ClaytonMacleod]

Their liquid glue is the business. It’s in this bingo ink dabber container and goes on super thin right where you put it. Washes off with water.

[@BenEColeman]

The X1C I just got was the same way, Textured PEI plate, and no glue stick.

[@JeremyCobb]

I presume you wash the bed inbetween every print run? and again with just with Soap and water?

[@niklaseib5060]

My first prints from the SD card looked terrible😒. This is really just a demonstration of the speed. But the fact that the result is unusable makes no sense to me. I could have done the same with my old printer. After various adjustments, I still have problems with the layers not bonding together and everything breaking. My A1 is not as great as I expected and everyone claims.

[@PioneerPrint3D]

It is very rare to get a dud from bamboo lab. I run a print farm so I am curious was that your only printer? I haven't had any issue with mine but I'm running P1P's

[@niklaseib5060]

@@PioneerPrint3D My first printer was the Anycubic Vyper, which produced really excellent results out of the box. 👍 BambuLab's service department said that I could not return the device due to poor print quality. 😒 I have now been able to test some standard BambuStudio profiles again. The ones with smooth transitions at print speed work noticeably better with the current filament, standard Jayo PLA (worked best on the Anycubic Vyper), but everything is still very fragile. I printed hotter, reduced the cooling and lowered the speed (

[@PioneerPrint3D]

@@niklaseib5060 use bamboo filament. Your problems will be gone. Bamboo is great but you have to use their filament to get the best results. They like to claim compatibility with other filament makers but really they aren't compatible at all. I hope that helps.

[@jethrodavison1405]

Iso definitely doesn't leave residue

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks for all the info and tips, Ian! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@МаксимГранатов-з6н]

Thanks for review Ian. In your opinion what is better - P1S or A1?

[@fritzbender5916]

Thanks Ian, would you mind adding chapters to these kind of videos? Great work.

[@MadRC]

Yes I will on this

[@johngelnaw1243]

Good video. Much appreciated-- most of it was review, but I haven't done 3D printing in some time. The Benchy on the X1C is-- ridiculous. The only flaw I could find was the layer line on the hull where the printer changed gears, so to speak.

[@AlwynKirk]

Excellent. Thank you !!!

[@typxxilps]

Great one cause my p1s is still in its box after that long journey with the free spools. Too much work on the 2nd solar roof and first diy battery still to be done. But I like these tips a lot I have not heard of before in this compressed version. And I love that you do not just talk but also show things you mention, cause that will help to stick in my brain like you washing the plate. The average yt would not have shown it on camera. that is the extra mile you are going on. thanks a lot.

[@delwynjshelleyjr5434]

Alcohol is the best to wash build plate

[@randomhobbyist99]

Omg wow I was tripping because I couldn’t print using that white support pla

[@ericanderson5665]

Same here 🤦‍♂

[@ClaytonMacleod]

Yeah, you use it for “support interface” only. It even for the supports themselves. It just goes between the supports and the model. Second setting in the support tab, filament for supports section. Just keeps the supports and the model from binding to each other. The sample roll should last a super long time because that’s all you use it for.

[@tuckerhauser]

Great advice. It's nice to see some tips for folk who have just purchesed their 1st printers. Please continue a with series of videos. Remember watching loads on my old ender doesnt seem as much advice for the bambu.

[@knifeyonline]

I got the gold plate with my p1s and they do not include a glue stick

[@archy656]

Bit late, but "gold" you mean PEI plate, you don't need glue stick. I printing 7/24 without any issue and DON'T use IPA on that plate, thats on the manual too...

[@WhyplayGaming]

Any chance you can compare the sound between the P1S and X1 carbon... I'm sending my A1 back for recall, but looking to get a P1S or X1 instead but my printer is is in a spare room but is situated next to my son's room, So I don't want it too be affecting him while he's sleeping. I'm desperately trying to find out how the sound compares too the A1 especially with the new sound suppression system. Also how much is the sound reduced while printing in silent mode if at all? Thanks for anyone who can help me.

[@chitlitlah]

This is a bit late, but I just got a P1S and in silent mode, it's just a bit louder than a typical paper printer. While my washing machine was running in the next room, it was louder than this printer. I wouldn't want to try to sleep in the same room, but I think I'd have trouble hearing it through a wall.

[@WhyplayGaming]

I have the XC1 and it's pretty quite but don't especially do a knocking sound every time it changes the filliment. Also running it at 50% slower speed makes it very quiet,

[@BloodSteyn]

Jayne Seymour makes some amazing, unscented, "Bed Adhesion Spray"... they just call it "Wonder Set - Firm Hold - Unscented Hairspray"

[@MystikSquash]

I need a printer lol

[@ArtComputer123]

I received my printer yesterday (P1S) and it's absolutely fantastic. Thanks for the recommandations: quality on the boat and .... the white filament (it is not a superior PLA but a support :) :) :) )

[@anguismemes1666]

I'm not new to 3d printers I actually did buy a A1 with an AMS My very first print was a very complicated one that even with a A1 took 20 hours. It was an instant success. Reason is I have no time for testing. Just set it up and grease the y axis and go.

[@YP-ks1gd]

Is there an easy way to print the pre-sliced benchy that shows off the visual quality the machine is capable of instead of the speed? If not what steps and setting changes are necessary to print the highest visual quality benchy the machine is capable of producing?

[@typxxilps]

I still wonder that 100 gave a thumbs up and I bet the first 2 viewers had not there glasses on and hit the thumbs down button while aiming for the thumbs up. cheers

[@shanold7681]

You should use the glue stick if printing petg on the PEI plate. mostly to protect the plate.

[@FLAGAgent]

Got the X1 Carbon yesterday and your video is super helpful. Subscribed!❤

[@johnhill437]

Great stuff. I have a creality cr10s .But I'll be buying a Bambu lab p1s combo. All the best Jono 👍.

[@CNCnStuff]

I thought (but don't know!) that the hull line was deliberate?

[@SuperHongkongphooey]

please can you tell me can any kind of glue stick be used thanks 😁

[@stevenbarousseii7331]

Yes any normal glue stick will be fine 👍🏼

[@dan-nutu]

Might be worth thinking what chemicals it will release into the room when heated

[@antonhummer3945]

The Line on the Banshee is similar to a ships bow. At the line the Printer is change his flow and temp settings. Thats not a reason of printfail

[@Rockies007]

Really appreciate the straight forward breakdown.

[@WolvieXXXZandalari]

Great video. Thanks for keeping it simple and smart.

[@Klierland12]

That line belongs on the Benchy, as far as I know.

[@remconet]

5:20 won't it warp when the water too warm?

[@BethanyCutsMadrid]

Thanks for the tips! Cheers from Madrid!

[@SebastienChedalBornu]

on my prusa for the glue to be thin and really equally: i used to put glue like you did then pass on simple paper towel wetted with hot water and it leraves only a really tiny layer just like if it wasn't there

[@ClaytonMacleod]

Bambi’s got a liquid glue product that’s in what resembles a bingo ink dabber. Way better.

[@crowguy506]

3D Lac is expensive and totally unnecessary on the gold PEI sheet of a Bambu. It may actually make things worse. Don’t waste your money.

[@suit1337]

3DLAC is not expensive - in roughly 1250 hours of printing since i bought the P1 i used not nearly half the can - try that with gluestick ;) and 3DLAC is totally needed on the PEI sheet if you print PETG, else the coating will exfoliate

[@Viseo3dp]

Glue stick does give bed adhesion on any bed type, people use carbon fiber build plates to print with and you have to use glue stick also if you have a wham bam build plate using glue stick help with adhesion as well as removal. Glue stick has been used for years by 3d printer user's before we had PEI OR PEO type bed we used glass beds that was a pain in the ass to get prints to stick and if it did you might pull glass of with the print so glue stick is for adhesion and removal the only thing is it messy and for PEI Build plate using iso alcohol is a good choice in cleaning pei build plates you need 99% iso tho, yes washing once and awhile with brand name dish soap is a good thing to do and i know all this because i own and have run a 3d printer shop for the past 10 years selling and maintaining consumer machines to industrial machines. And you might see or be told to use glass cleaner like Windex to clean your build plate i found it works some times and most time not but if you are printing with a PEX build plate it works really good as a release agent on theses type of build plates.

[@groznyentertainment]

there is actually a solution for the glue/glass beds, its the type of glue used. I discovered this in trial and errors. if you use "Elmer's Disappearing Purple Spray Glue" - once sold in dollar tree. apply it to the glass and with a paint brush the bed 45degree to match the print line.

[@oktayturkeli6731]

tanks

[@oktayturkeli6731]

c

[@baggszilla]

I tried to remove my first roll of TPU and it got jammed inside the extruder! I hit the remove button but IDK what happened. I had to take the extruder apart to get the broken TPU out. I did notice there is a cutter on the side. When do we use that? Thanks

[@Yggdrasil42]

The cutter should be used automatically when you press Unload.

[@carloso5599]

My prints on the white pls were always falling. I thought I got a bad spool but this makes so much sense now lol

[@ClaytonMacleod]

Go into the support tab, and the filament for support section. Use it for the second option listed only. Support/raft interface. That’s all it is meant for.

[@alican-mj4lr]

thank you for the video, can we combine pla and petg and glow in dark filaments in ams?

[@ClaytonMacleod]

Put whatever you like in there. Just know that you can’t combine any filaments you feel like in the same print. For example, PETG and PLA don’t stick to each other very well.

[@F-Andre]

i used support pla for pla... look exact like the benchy... crappy filament

[@Yggdrasil42]

It's not crappy filament. It's simply made for a different purpose.

[@ChrisBairKeto]

I've NEVER used glue stick on my cool plate. A helpful person on the Bambu subreddit recommended glass cleaner (spray, wipe it around, let it dry) and my cool plate is still working exceptionally well. Video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHzNZYmmrsysnK8si=fQU7_dNFcjI5r6hF

[@OkayThereBud]

How often do you need to reapply?\

[@ChrisBairKeto]

@@OkayThereBud I spray more onto the plate and wipe it off every 2-3 prints unless I'm re-printing the same thing in the same place then I'll do it every time just to be safe.

[@ChrisBairKeto]

@@OkayThereBud I even made a video! kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHzNZYmmrsysnK8si=fQU7_dNFcjI5r6hF

[@rabbidjeremy9193]

Thank you for the video. I love your eyebrows.

[@jurriendejong1215]

Why not sprayglue it?

[@JohnCuppi]

I can see exactly how the filament that's meant for supports ends up being used accidentally to do an entire print. Beginner just sees "SUPPORT FOR PLA", and thinks "Oh! This is the filament that I need... it says PLA supported." This could probably be very easily prevented by Bambu lab changing the wording or adding some extra warning text, "DO NOT USE THIS FOR A FULL PRINT."

[@MadRC]

Yea 100%. I see SOOO many do this. Tbh I don’t think they should include it. Just give some petg or TPU instead. Most people will never use it.

[@JohnCuppi]

@@MadRC Probably right. I also think that "SUPPORT FOR PLA" is just bad english in this context, too. Really great video by the way, still watching.

[@typxxilps]

@@JohnCuppi Here it would be called germanism cause here we use FÜR PLA and you easily can fall into the trap "für = for" instead of. Maybe the have hired a german in china or they missed to use deepl, the best free online translator afaik. I would have fallen into the pla trap too. Bought the bambu lab p1s or so as recommanded by ian on black friday sale but tbh it still sits in its cardbox on the shelf cause no time to spend. too much work to be done on the 30 kWp solar roof and 15 kWh battery built.

[@ihad2reload]

​@@TimothyFlesyou're stupid

[@coldfire0101]

bought a1mini with ams lite and got sod all extras with it

[@hantzenz834]

hello what accessories should I get with the A1 mini ?

[@adriancatalin8046]

Big advice: ONLY USE GYROID INFILL i had many nozzles broken due to immature wear and break because other infill patterns tend to overlap which causes premature wear.

[@ClaytonMacleod]

Yeah, this is not a thing.

[@raspberrypiploy771]

Interesting video apart from it being repetitive throughout. Interesting when you mention the Glue stick and I have to disagree. If you allow the build plate to cool down properly the part will come off without issue. In fact with the Bamboo printers I personally have never needed a glue stick or 3d Lac. As another user mentions if the part has a small footprint reducing the speed on the first couple of layers will sort out any issues. In fact the Bamboo range have been the absolute best for bed adhesion and release, it just works very well. Sorry for the criticism and having a different opinion but its important that people can see both sides of the coin ;-)

[@TheBinklemNetwork]

I returned my ender 3 v2 neo within a week and upgraded to the a1. It just works or tells me whats wrong. I love it.

[@yukiseekyo]

1. The AMS will NOT use the SUPPORT FOR PLA filament unless you force it or for the P1 case, they move the position of the filament. 2. Use Magigoo or the Bambu Labs Liquid Glue instead of the 3d Labs Hair Spray, There is ways to damage the build plate Putting too strong of a glue WILL make the bed stick too well and in terms of the Cool Plate Literally Strip the coating off the bed. Unless your printing slowly some prints WILL get lift off the build plate due to the speed and vibration of the printer. 3. He is correct, the pre-sliced files are only for PLA and for the benchy ONLY for their PLA which is the high speed PLA, so it can also fail on regular PLA (I should Know).

[@suit1337]

1) the AMS will use any filament you tell it to use - if you don't tell the slicer you want to use a different filament for the support interface layer it does not use it - you need to specifically set it, since the support structure and support interface default to the default filament under "Filament for Support" setting 2) after 1250 hours on the textured PEI plate and 3DLAC i can confidently say: it does not destroy the build plate ;)

[@yukiseekyo]

@@suit1337 the bambu labs filament has a code to tell what fillament it is and usually automatically assign the info on the filament otherwise 3rd party filament you have to assign it or it won’t use it. If 3Dlac is working for you then that’s fine but the liquid glue from bambu labs works and it’s cheaper

[@jclosed2516]

Hmm... My experience with 3DLAC (the one shown here) is that it prevents PLA sticking too much and make it easy removable, while at the same time is sticky enough to give a perfect first layer. This is of course with a heated build surface (around 50 to 60 degree) while printing, and taking off the build plate (for fast cool down) when finished printing. Once cooled down the printed object pops off easily. This worked on many "difficult" build surfaces that otherwise let prints stick too hard or not at all (like the standard magnetic surfaces that come with many Creality printers). I have used 3DLAC for years now, and it's cheap and last a long time. I do around a year or more with only one can, and I print an average amount of objects. You only have to apply it only every once in a while. Certainly not with every print. Removing is easy with some lukewarm water under the tap, but in general I just let it sit on the plate unless or until it makes the plate uneven, and the plate has to be cleaned up. It's certainly better than some "standard" hairspray. I tried the latter one several times, and it was messy disaster every time. I am not a lover of glue sticks, because it dries out very fast, loosing effect in the process, and leaves a ugly residue.

[@xargon1234]

tpu and petg need glue stick no matter the build sheet they stick too well otherwise and can rip chunks out of build plates and glass beds etc

[@MadRC]

It does stick well but I don’t tend to use it. Iv not had issues with it coming off.

[@burgienl]

No PETG doesn't need glue at all. Just printed PETG on the textured PEI plate without glue and without any problems. In fact, glue messed up the first layer in earlier attempts.

[@xargon1234]

@burgienl on a plate that compatible with petg I bet. Yes you can print tpu and petg without glue but I recommend using it for a release agent because it can stick too hard and ruin the print or the build plate. Petg on glass without gluestick is a nono it will rip a chunk of glass out easy

[@burgienl]

@@xargon1234 well, you said "no matter the build sheet"... that might be true for glass but not for all kinds of plates.

[@shadowline1413]

People who Used Support Material to Print..Probably should think about doing an other hobby lol. 😂

[@Jestey6]

I think this is an unfair comment. For many of us me included, this is our first forays into 3-D printing and I anticipate most will agree that there is a steep learning curve. Perhaps you were fortunate and found 3-D printing easy, if so perhaps it would have been better to consider providing helpful comment, before committing to paper.🫢.

[@AA-zo5kp]

AVOID AVOID AVOID at all costs, Bambu f'ng Labs is the worst company I have ever dealt with.

[@MadRC]

Hi. Can you please tell us more as this is not the experience most have ?

[@Crisping1612]

@@MadRC dont expect any answer, he is either just a bot, or an angry kid, ive been watching quite a few 3D printer vids lately, as im considering buying one, and he has spammed this comment on ALOT of videos as soon as they are about Bambu Lab. So bot or hater doesnt really matter, these kind of messages rarely change any ones mind, because they gives no constructive critisism at all, just an angry rant from a kid who prolly dont like Bambu Lab because they are taking all the attention away from hes favorite 3D printer brand these days :)

[@AA-zo5kp]

@@digital_feline Not really, just the worst customer service. They promised to deiver the 3D printer within days but still waiting after 3 months.

[@groznyentertainment]

@@AA-zo5kp I ordered two days ago and received a FedEx tracking number showing it's arriving today. However, I do agree with you about their customer service. Many people have given up and resorted to disputing charges through their credit card companies for refunds. So, it's better to use a credit card instead (that's how you deal with Chinese based companies)

[@clickchatt]

i just got my printer today and then this video drops......thank you so much you are a savior