Before Liquid Cooling Your Gaming PC - Tips & Tricks

[@MoreThanLuck]

I'd love a comprehensive video on actually building and setting up a custom loop from start to finish.

[@Amogh-Dongre]

macines and more as well as jayz twocents have a video on this

[@Craig-Sweet]

If possible could you look at the performance of a thick rad and thin fans compared to a thin rad and thick fans. Thanks

[@codertommy6883]

I think thin rad thick fans would be the way to go. I've only used AIOs, so might want to ask someone else, but the thin fan won't be able to provide enough static pressure to clear the thick rad.

[@drummeralex9198]

Size of the rads matters more than the thickness, but between the two, I’d choose thin rad and thick fans. With the thick rad, the thin fans might not have enough power to push through the fins. Focus more on size and go as big as you can go within the restrictions of your case.

[@BirolAKBAY]

I have 3 ekwb se360 with 15 ekwb 120mm fans running @500 rpm in an external rad setup which is cooling 4 computer in a row. I have 3900x with 2080 in a gaming pc, 2 intel 7700 Esxi virtualization server running %50 cpu load all the time and a 6th gen i3 for a firewall. Two d5 pumps, two rez loop. Room temp is about 22 Celcius with ac and liquid temp is about 26 while not gaming or rendering. During 2 hours stress test liquid temp is about 45 celcius most, and fan curve is still 500 - 700 rpm. this loop has been setup for silence yet performance is quite good. However, previous rad setup was 2 ekwb xe360 with 12 noctua 12x15 fans with 1200 rpm with some hissss noise level. Temperatures are same with two setups.

[@codertommy6883]

@@BirolAKBAY I've heard EK thin rads aren't that good, so with better slim rads, thick fans would probably have better performance.

[@wertacus]

Personally I'd prefer going with a thin rad such as the xspc 20mm ones and pairing it with a normal fan if space allows

[@EvL--_--]

Tips: - soak the tip of the soft tubes in boiling water for easier handling, or use a heat gun carefully to make them softer ;) - also, flush the radiators a few times when new, also flush the complete new loop a couple of times with plain distilled water, I let it run for 24-48h and flush then repeat before adding the final liquid :D

[@brandishwar]

I've connected brand new radiators to an under-sink water filter and let that run for a couple hours with the pump at full speed. It'll catch everything that'll be a concern. You can probably do the same with the full loop as well, or run PrimoChill's System Reboot or SysPrep instead of plain distilled water.

[@egalanos]

Won't softening the tube weaken the compression force of the inner barb and increase the risk of leaking?

[@simonholmqvist8017]

@@egalanos I'm quite sure it will go harder again when cool.

[@Matt-fl6ys]

50:50 Distilled water and cleaning vinegar in your new rad, top it off and leave to sit for 8-12 hours, then flush out twice with distilled water. it gets rid of the flux and remains of the assembly process.

[@EvL--_--]

@@egalanos No, the tube goes all in and the top screw holds it tight, no leak problems, and it cools off in a few secs...

[@theoldhenk7531]

While assembling all the hardware, and planning my first open loop, I've watched or read at least 50 in-depth water cooling tutorials, and 4 minutes in this is already the most useful. Once you understand the basics, the details become critical, and your fittings discussion - especially your extenders mention (and the subsequent shot of their use on a radiator port) provides useful detail I haven't previously come across. A broader discussion of angled adaptors and T-fittings would have been even more appreciated, but that's mostly due to the fact that I'm currently trying to plan my fill/drain ports. Your channel is obviously very professional, and the information presented is incredibly valuable.

[@paskowitz]

Big list of tips, tricks and best practices (will be updated over time...): 1. The spatial relationship between components is very important. RESEARCH YOUR DAMN CASE! And if your current case is not good for custom water cooling, get a new one! The vast majority of bad experiences with custom loops originate from a case that was never designed with multiple radiators or custom loops in mind. The clearance between radiator mounts is a very important spec that most reviewers don't mention. This has a big impact on what parts you can fit. Corsair mid towers are notorious for this. You have to account for the size of your GPU block in relation to your reservoir and radiator positions. Also pay attention to your case's rad mounting solution. A sliding rail is far preferable to fixed mounting holes (again, bad on you Corsair). Finally, airflow. A bad airflow case makes for a bad custom loop case. 2. Quality components matter. You're spending $$$ if not $,$$$ for some aesthetic pop, a decent reduction in noise and a marginal increase in performance. Don't just get XY brand because you see everyone using them. You will spend less and get higher quality parts by mixing brands that excel in their respective product categories. I'll touch on this later... 3. Invest in tools. One I find ESSENTIAL for hardline tubing is the Primochill Rigid Finishing Bit (there are vids on it). The main + of the RFB is not the chamfering, it's that it lets you precisely shorten the lengths of your tube runs .##mm at a time. This is far preferable to cutting, deburring, sanding, oh crap it's too long, but only by a little bit, so I can't really cut, now I have to sand, well that's a PIA... so now I have to start over. No thanks. I also like to finish off my hard tube ends with some sandpaper to make sure they are 100% smooth. Breaking an o-ring is the last thing you want. Another tool you may see people use are bending kits/mandrels. Some important points for those. Do not waste your money on a cheap plastic set. They are not precisely made and will often cause more problems than they solve. Only get metal mandrels. Bitspower and Monsoon make the best ones. Monsoon and Alphacool also make a interlocking ruler kit that is great for measuring bends to set up your mandrel positions. I would purchase these together. If you are doing hard tubing, a heatgun with adjustable temperature is nice to have. 4. PWM control software. Mobo software + a water temp sensor often "works". However, as pretty much anyone knows, most mobo software sucks. Some people use Corsair iCUE since it also controls their RGB stuff. It's better than mobo software... but there is a vastly superior option... Aquacomputer's Quadro/Octo controllers w/ Aquasuite software. The lack of YT content on this solution is mindboggling to me. Ali, seriously, pls, make a video on this. I could write an page worth on this topic alone... but in short... lightweight software that doesn't crash, granular PWM control, plethora of special functions like condition based PWM curves, warnings and autoshutdown, terrific UI, fully customizable monitor, etc etc. Best $45 you will spend. Now on to quality brands. There is a certain brand you will see pretty much every TechTuber use. They have a big marketing budget. They incentivize only showing their products together. Some products they make are great, most are ok, some should be avoided. They are NOT the only option out there and you should absolutely be considering the myriad of alternatives out there. Here is a detailed breakdown (get a cup of coffee): - CPU block: Watercool Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, Alphacool (XPX), Optimus and EK's Magnitude (only) are top shelf. Bitspower, Phanteks, XSPC are good as well. - GPU block: Watercool Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, Optimus, Phanteks, and Bitspower. Pay close attention to your GPU model. Reference cards (this crazy gen as an exception) and Asus's Strix are the best models to target if you are custom water cooling. EVGA is often a safe bet as well. - Reservoir: Reservoirs don't impact performance and it really comes down to quality (material, glass/metal vs plastic), ports, size and mounting compatibility. Don't sweat this one. I like Watercool and Singularity Computers for ATX builds. Distribution blocks are also an option. - Pump: D5 PWM (just not the VP755) for ATX cases. DDC 3.2 PWM (with heatsink) if you are tight on space (DDCs are noisier than D5s). Aquacomputer D5 NEXT has some nice features (display, temp sensor, rgb, etc) if you don't mind paying a bit more. - Radiator: Hardware Labs. HWL GTS, SR2 and GTX are some of the best rads on the market. GTS is 30mm thick and is the best rad for 9/10 situations. Corsair and Bitspower uses HWL as their OEM, so they are good options if the price is lower or HWL availability is limited. XSPC makes the best

[@Jibberish18]

Cheers

[@oscarkc8847]

Thank you

[@SolaAesir]

@paskowitz I noticed you didn't mention Bykski at all when talking brands. They're the only ones who make a cooler for my graphics card and have the best storefront on their website by far so I was thinking about getting the bulk of my first setup from them. Are they okay? Something to be avoided? Some parts great and others garbage? Thanks for a great writeup, it was really helpful for someone coming into this for the first time having never heard of half of these brands before. Tech youtubers mostly seem to use sponsored gear, with actual preferences only mentioned in other random videos so it can be really hard to tell what brands are worthwhile (especially when most of their own websites look and operate like they were made by my 10 year old self in the 90s, except without the Under Construction gifs).

[@resko8758]

​@@SolaAesir well Bykski quality is far better than EK for sure, their 360mm 60mm thick radiator is almost the best one out there

[@jeffreydesormeaux3539]

*ATTENTION*: if you are using the aqua computer aqualis glass res. The leak tester might lose pressure and make you think that you have a leave but you won't. The design of the res causes you to lose air but not water. It has something to do with the nickel plated metal tube and the glass. I recommend leak testing without the aqua computer aqualis reservoir. Adding the reservoir once your leak testing is done. The only place it SHOULD leak from is the base of the reservoir, Make sure to tighten the reservoir if you have previously taken it apart. If you apply pressure against the reservoir than you will create a small leak BUT that's only if something pushes against the reservoir

[@odinsplaygrounds]

Always nice with tips & tricks videos! Covering smaller things which might otherwise not get a dedicated video. Wouldn't mind seeing more of those covering various SFF topics.

[@maximilianschmieder2527]

Your production value looks so high. Really always such brilliant shoots. Totally love your b-roll !!

[@H2kPat0]

I've seen like 10.000+ PC builds but that NZXT H510 build you did is hands down the most beautiful pc i ever saw! Well done.

[@fuongbregas]

The H400i build is better

[@MichaelChan0308]

One painful lesson I learnt before custom cooling your rig... is to try out every components if it works first =(

[@richardfarmer6570]

I have had this happen and it really, really sucks. Nothing worse than completely building a loop, installing blocks only to find out your GPU is dead.

[@EvL--_--]

Also, good to check the cooling components, I had a EK GPU block with loose screws ...

[@yohanes2034]

I can imagine how time consuming it was to drain the liquid & dismantle the piping just to remove the GPU. But still IMO the biggest headache for any built is when you get dead motherboard. That's when almost everything will need to be removed.

[@EvL--_--]

@@yohanes2034 It depends, if you have soft tubing its not that bad, you can kinda take off and leave the waterblocks hanging there :D

[@RafitoOoO]

Big oof

[@sparkymotive]

If you are using a large reservoir separate from the pump, you should always feed your pump from the reservoir. Use gravity to your advantage. The opposite configuration will cause unnecessary wear. This is mostly irrelevant in little ITX builds, but should be mentioned in a general water cooling video.

[@TheMillz1994]

Just finished my first PC build with custom watercooling. According to your recommendation I included a Temperatur-Sensor and this makes the fans even more unnoticeable.

[@DaneCoShow]

Regarding sliding the tubing over the barb of the EK Torque fittings, do note that there is room for an allen key (hex key) on the inside. Using that it is super easy to both get the tubing over the fitting and closing it afterwards :)

[@E_Sunbro]

I've done quite a few custom loops since I've been building. That being said, this video taught me something. Well done.

[@nichegholm1]

Appreciate the good lighting, camera work, audio quality and overall production value. A pleasure to watch great content go hand in hand with quality production. ❤

[@harryhalfmoon]

Thank you so much for this. I may be building my first custom loop soon and this video is a true goldmine.

[@matthewadair2358]

thanks man I feel like you can read my mind with what youve been uploading lately

[@albertchung30]

The temp sensor for the coolant is really important. At least for the pumps that I use, they have a max operating temp of 60C. Sometimes my coolant reaches upwards of 52C which isn't so great, but at least I know and I can set a notification on my system to warn me if it goes above a certain temp (I set it at 55C). Also, from what I've heard, PETG tubing can warp or deform at temps around the 50s (you are bending it with a heat gun at 62C and above), so perhaps in the summer or if you are overclocking some really hot components (3090, etc.) for extended periods of time, definitely need a temp sensor for your coolant and run your fan curves based on that.

[@cppctek]

i wish this would have been here a few weeks ago when i did all my watercooling upgrades. WOW i learned a lot lol. if you are new. GO SOFT TUBING FIRST! Wow i should have listened, the hard tubing was way harder than i thought since im a perfectionist.

[@blackmennewstyle]

You forgot to mention an important and crucial best practice, do not mix different types of metals in your custom loops, never ever, always try to go with the same metal everywhere. Also i honestly prefer cheap out on my fittings and tubing with buying from Bykski or Barrow and then spending a little bit more on my Radiators or even CPU/GPU blocks (EKWB, Alphacool). Buying also the right tools for cutting your tubing is mandatory otherwise you are just up for nightmares lol

[@malteroeper3723]

this is not "best practice" this is absolutely neccessary

[@riba2233]

@@malteroeper3723 not really, look at aio's. You just need to use the coolant with corrosion inhibitant

[@Dave-kh6tx]

@@riba2233 two different metals always react somehow. the inhibitant would be more for the pump if I had to guess.

[@tomaso5472]

Thank you very much for this video it covers what I needed to know before building a custom loop myself. Thinking of going with EK myself. Keep up the good work !👍

[@ImOnMy116]

This is a great video! Been working with ZMT tubing for a while, and desperately needed to be reminded about the soaking. Definitely a great point about having extra fittings! I think my one tip would be if at all possible, have a backup machine. If you’re inexperienced, you may find you’re missing a component that you’d like on the first go for your loop, or down the line experience a pump failure, and then potentially be out of commission. I’d say just anticipate it won’t be as reliable as an air cooled system, and then enjoy the glorious temperatures/noise levels the other 95% of the time.

[@metallurgico]

I knew all of them, but not the EK leak tester. Thank you!

[@manzanitas23]

Man I seriously don't understand how some of these other youtuber computer guys have more subscribers than you. Your vids are top notch and very professional!

[@Bilalnwo]

Ahh the info on the thermal probe is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you

[@currentlykent4593]

Wow. So much ground covered in this one, Ali. Will be sharing this often for folks getting into water cooling. Cheers

[@IRoN0RE]

All good tips but in my experience fully testing all pc components before even installing any water cooling is best practice.

[@dwhutto]

Love this video answers all the questions I had about watercooling that I was too afraid to ask

[@sushimshah2896]

5:35-whoops! Absolutely love your vids man, I'm surprised you still don't have a single sponsor (nod to EK).

[@iroesstrongarm]

Thanks for the tips. Wish I had known about wetting the ZMT before installation. I recently did my first custom loop in a Ghost S1 and what a pain it was to tighten some of the fittings. Ended up having to use a wrench for a couple that didn't have good clearance to wrap my fingers fully around.

[@blai5e730]

Great video Ali from a fellow Aussie - useful tips as usual. I first came across you when researching waterblocks for the EVGA 1080TI SC2 and have followed you since. I use EK's ZMT for my test bench (Streacom BC1 Open Benchtable) for both flexibility & durability which has served me well. I'm glad EK released their leak tester... so much better design/build than the Aquacomputer Dr Drop offering which was difficult to get an air-tight seal. Like you, I prefer the EK Cryofuel clear in all my builds although I have used the coloured variants in the past and dye has a habit of getting stuck in radiators when cleaning out. A few extra tips - * Don't forget cross-flow radiators exist. My builds are normally in full ATX towers and the return tube from the top radiator can look a bit ugly and potentially interfere with high RAM. The biggest issue is availability of such radiators in Australia and I source them overseas from either Aquatuning (can be very expensive shipping to Australia) or Performance-PCs. * Another company's fittings I use (sparingly) is Bitspower when I want something a bit specialised. I use 2 temperature probes (one to each of my Corsair Commander Pro's) and use a Bitspower rotary "Q" fitting directly off a radiator port allowing the 2 probes and the return run from the radiator to my pump/res without excess bulk. * If you are using a Singularity Computers D5 PWM pump and filling your loop, ensure you disconnect the PWM wire from your motherboard or fan controller to get it to run at full speed. This was never an issue with EK's D5 pumps that I have used in the past but my recent update of a vertically mounted EK 3090 waterblock was having trouble clearing a large air bubble out of the block unless I had the pump running at full speed. * I use a seperate (with a jumpered 24-pin) PSU for running the pump when filling/flushing/leak testing. My builds have the molex cable in an easy to access location and is the only cable I need to disconnect in my build (barring the PWM sensor wire) with zero risk of a leak causing a short.

[@smokeyninja9920]

Pro tips: Radiator size (length, width, height) and fin density (fpi) are the biggest factors in loop performance followed by fans; but it's a lot easier to add/upgrade fans than swap a rad. Consider your budget and physical limitations, then get the biggest/thickest rad you can. Higher fpi rads (>18fpi) should use higher static pressure fans Built myself a $450 loop, nexxxos 1260 rad, dual bykski ddc, cpu+gpu, 3 quick disconnects, soft tubing, compression fittings, and a water temp sensor.

[@tippyc2]

If you aren't concerned about looks, i have 4 tips: 1) The best tubing is food grade silicone (sometimes called medical grade). It's soft, flexible, and lasts forever. You'll easily push it onto your barbs. It can bend sharper without kinking, meaning you can use straight barbs more often. You can eliminate the spacers too. For example, at 3:20, instead of a spacer and a 90-fitting, just use one straight fitting coming out of the radiator and let the tube do the bend 2) Use barbs, not compression fittings. Compression fittings are just a barb with a screw-on collar to hold the hose in place. You can accomplish the same with a zip tie. At the low pressure a D5 produces, you can even skip the zip tie, but it's cheap insurance against accidentally yanking a tube off. 3) The best fluid is purified or distilled water. A few drops of biocide is enough to keep it clean. You'll want a few drops of corrosion inhibitor too. 4) Don't buy an AIO. All watercooling transpires water through the tubes. An AIO is gonna dry out sooner or later, and you can't add water when it does. For the same money, you can buy air coolers that are almost as good, and will last forever.

[@omegaPhix]

Can you even buy decent quality barbs nowadays? And especially with zip ties they look really bad

[@tippyc2]

@@omegaPhix I wouldnt worry about quality at all if it's a solid barb. The only thing that can even leak is the o-ring. And i did start that with "If you aren't concerned about looks"...

[@whereswilliam488]

Love the concept of this video. Thank you for the tips

[@UnfocusedRacing]

I've been running my fans of coolant temp for a couple years now. Highly recommended. I'm also using a fan hub off the high output header on my MB. This way all fans are on the exact same curve.

[@tarfeef_4268]

i'll just give 1 tip cause i'm lazy and have typed these out so many times, but the biggest thing I think most ppl can do better: don't get drawn in by the admittedly very effective marketing of EKWB and other brands (but esp them). to be clear, they make good products. but they're also expensive asf. aliexpress and the like can offer wayyy better value, esp in certain areas like CPU blocks, fittings, and radiators. if you spend a few mins looking around on those sites, you can save hundreds on your loop. don't be afraid to dig a little, you'll save so much in the process.

[@rebitedon]

Thank you so much for this tips video. Just in time to attempt my first watercool build and this is very informative 👌🏾

[@BillyTubememe]

I don't have the financial resources to make a watercooled PC, but this is still satisfying to watch.

[@khalidsaad9452]

Great points, whished I knew some of those before. I had a hell of an experience in my Ncase build, I would avoid the thicker version of zmt soft tubing and crossflow variants of radiators, stay away from that s***.

[@LordApophis100]

The Nexxxos V2 radiators from Alphacool have a fill/drain port on the back side, this can be really handy especially in miniITX builds.

[@silvergeneration]

The matte black soft tubes are much better looking than any hard tubing in my opinion

[@shanebolger7802]

Perfect vid and timing. Wanted to custom loop my new build for looks and obviously the performance. First time and im seriously wanting hard tubing and ill likely do both gpu and cpu. Scary but exciting

[@Swatmat]

excellent advice, and sky high production values as always

[@edris0123]

1:29 the nr200p is insane! Would love to see more from this case

[@ma1evich]

just look for it on his channel, he made entire video about it

[@edris0123]

@@ma1evich yeah I know but I want more 😂

[@shrapnel95]

I fkn love you guy, wanted to water cool my 6800 but it was too daunting for me. Maybe when RDNA3 comes out I will and have A LOT more confidence, till then please keep up with your quality content, it's invaluable! Had no idea about that EK leak tester!

[@Lead_Foot]

I made an oversized loop with 6 x 360mm plus one 240mm rads, with radiators in parallel in a set of 4 and 3. With two D5s in serial at 100% I see a 4C delta between the coolest and hottest points of the loop. At a more silent pump speed I can see deltas of over 8C. If you have very power hungry components and extremely restrictive rads like the HWLabs GTS line you'll definitely see more than a couple degrees of coolant temperature variation at different points in the loop.

[@FelipoGoncalves]

This one will help me a LOT for my M1 Watercooling project. thanks!

[@graceowaga861]

love the tips

[@mihkelnooneelse]

just the tip

[@awake5196]

Nice tips, awesome rolls

[@bjornlaupert5967]

Very useful. Thanks!

[@MangoAff]

What is better for noise and temperature? Have a thick rad combined with thin fans or thick fans with a thin rad?

[@belema22]

Still don't understand why this video din't get many views, there aren't alot of videos out there with this much detailed information about ITX watercooling

[@zhendiz5237]

3:50 when I was installing my loops, for CPU block I read the manual clearly stated that flow should be going into inlet first (that is the one that goes in the jet plate), order matters; for GPU block I read the manual stated there is no specific inlet/outlet port order, either way is fine. my blocks are EK ones.

[@pseudonym5872]

Yes, which ports you use for inlet and outlet matters on CPU blocks and most GPU blocks. No, loop order for where the blocks and radiators go in the loop does not matter. The only thing that does matter in loop order is that the reservoir should feed directly into the pump.

[@zhendiz5237]

@@pseudonym5872 yeah I was only talking about waterblock's inlet/outlet enter/exit order. I did not talk about loop/components order.

[@muhammadhuzaifah2908]

thank for the high quality tips!

[@cjsawinski]

So there’s no such fitting that allows you to couple soft tubing to hard tubing? I have a general idea of what I want for my first custom loop build. It’s not small form factor and the premise of what I want is “hidden tubing”. So something like hard tubing bent and routed right behind the motherboard in the straightest/cleanest way (so two bends/couples). Then once the tubing is behind the mother board be able to switch to soft tubing as it won’t ever be seen and is easier to work with (from what I’m told)…. Although the case I want to try this in is the Lian Li Lancool 2 Mesh, which if you aren’t familiar has tempered glass on both sides so maybe it would be cool to show off some tubing on that side as well. I know what a lot of you are thinking but I’m pretty handy with working with my hands and power tools so I’m not afraid to put some holes in the motherboard tray to route tubing or even modifying the front radiator bracket to accept a 420mm radiator. I just want the loop to be pretty minimal and clean… I k is there will could be lots of space left in the case when I’m done but I just want a clean looking MOBO with pretty much just the block standing out… I’m also not sure if I would include both the cpu and gpu, just the cpu, or even just the gpu for the loop. System is currently a 5800x being cooled by a Artic 280 AIO, with a MSI Gaming Trio 2080Ti (not liquid cooled). If I start with just the CPU I guess I can always modify the loop for a future GPU (don’t feel like growing through the trouble for the 2080Ti as I’ll probably replace it in the next year or two). Or just wait until I’m ready to build something all new I guess, that would probably be the smartest thing to do lol. I just like building and tinkering with shit to much whether it’s PC’s, guns (AR’s and custom Pistols), or even crap in my woods hop lol. Hell this PC I’m talking about has gone through 2-3 evolutions in this same case/mobo combo. Well sorry it took you 10 minutes to read all this mumbling but aren’t you kinda glad you did!?!?

[@taylorstarcevic1015]

Ali is dethroning Jay when it comes to the amount of watercooling content methinks

[@BlubbieFirglan]

this leak tester saved my RTX-3090 one month ago... :-)

[@GabbyTech]

great guide for people getting into custom loop, I need get leak tester, its crazy where you installed that ddc looks sick

[@undergroundguy4504]

I'm not in line with your pump recommendation DDC have a greater pressure thru the rpm, and the D5 need to spin kinda high to not loose pressure

[@codertommy6883]

I think the main point of D5 over DDC is DDC has to run louder to achieve D5 performance, so D5 is quieter. That's just from the video, but it seems right.

[@b127_1]

while it is true that a DDC has a higher performance ceiling than the D5, most loops dont need anywhere near that. I'm currently running a ddc and it is very quiet, but my d5 is pretty much inaudible.

[@NinjAsylum]

I have had absolutely zero issues with EK's ZMT black tubing while dry.

[@Vladek16]

good nice and simple advice, very good video 👍

[@richardfarmer6570]

Some good advice. I love the EK ZMT tubing, used it in my last 3 loops. You can never have too many fittings and adapters, but you can sure have too few. Plan ahead and look for other builds with the components you plan on using.

[@Accuaro]

I appreciate you Ali, I also 100% wan to see you game more!

[@DepressedMusicEnjoyer]

Good thing to save your money - ek fittings sometimes have 100% sale lol. I guess it was mistake on webpage but they actually arrived to people

[@taylorbertrim7625]

I did soft tubing but only did straight runs and used fittings for angles. Nzxt h7 flow 2x 360mm rad Ek Velocity on 11900k 3080 Aorus Xtreme WB

[@rickysargulesh1053]

Funny timing. This is what I was looking for since my O11 Mini just arrived. Thanks for the tips.

[@danielshnapek6348]

More videos please. Love them

[@tuan310580]

Thank you so much for sharing with us 👏👍😇

[@barrystone2186]

I use cryofuel exclusively too. However I used the solid blue and over time the solid component broke from solution and clogged the blocks. Took ages to clean out would never use solid coolant again, whereas normal colored cryofuel has never given any problems at all apart from some slight staining of blocks after prolonged use ( nothing that cant be fixed :) )

[@jaymacpherson8167]

If I were to custom water cool, I would buy Swagelok metric fittings. Their selection is much wider for English units over metric, but they have 12 and 16 mm fittings that should work. Using them properly requires some experience. And if Swagelok makes metric ferrules out of polymer or graphite (I didn’t find any in a quick search), one could go all glass! [ok, that would be a LOT of work]

[@s15jason]

Awesome! I've been waiting for this!!

[@threepe0]

Would love to see a video on the Sliger S620. Just completed an air cooled build in it with a 3090 and not only was it a pleasure to build in, but the temps have been surprisingly good. I was basically going to build something very similar to your M1 but someone mentioned the S620 to me. Definitely glad they did.

[@Neeb1337]

I know well and good that loop order makes no difference, but I still go pump/block/rad/block/rad/pump, it is silly I know, just habit. I'll also use soft tubing where it can't be seen, just because of ease. =) I love the pressure tester as well!!

[@justinnote3264]

From research I have done the inlet/outlet ports aren't really that important just like the flow order. Maybe a couple of degrees difference maximum.

[@bubbledoubletrouble]

I thought the first tip was going to be “Don’t”, followed by “If you really have to, […]”.

[@makere]

I used the have a water cooled machine, the acrylic on the CPU block cracked at some point overtime, and was slowly leaking on my graphics card. Had weird GPU crashes for a while before I figured this out, luckily nothing seemed to have broken permanently. After this "fun time", I decided to not bother with watercooling unless neccessary to the build.

[@riba2233]

You have to do something really wrong to have that kind of fail. I have never seen cracked acrylic even on some of cheapest aliexpress blocks

[@makere]

@@riba2233 It was one of the old S775 Thermaltake Bigwater kits with the included acrylic block (I got the entire kit with cost of shipping back then used). I remember researching it afterwards to see that it was common for the the acrylic blocks to crack/leak.

[@riba2233]

@@makere omg that is old as a bible lol. Don't worry, no such problems today. I also did some wc in those years and yeah, the quality was much lower

[@FusionKota]

I think im going to upgrade to a custom soft line build when the 50 series finally releases. Im currently using a 6800xt with a 5800x and its perfect for 1440p and light 4k gaming, but i am a sucker for the latest graphics tech and ray tracing performance is a must for my next build.

[@tns6862]

Waterblock scrubbing man...what a pain. I rinsed my 3x 360 rads so many times, over a few days, one day with diluted vineger solution, another 2 days with tap water then distilled water, but there was still some whitiest hard residue/build-uip to clog my cpu block in a few months time. Full nickle plated copper blocks with copper rads and brass bitspower fittings and mayhem's anti-rust and anti-mircobial to boot. When u rebuilt my comp, i got paranoid and flush the loop once a day for 3 days, then 1 more time after a week and a few more times over the course of months and after i feel comfortable, double dose the mayhem loop treatment drops. Temps seems stable now after 6mths+, not sure what went wrong initially.

[@william_fbd1534]

Most if not all EK gpu waterblocks state in the manual that "You can use any opening as an inlet/outlet port." So flow direction i those doesn't matter.

[@Accuaro]

One thing you didn't add is can you re-use the liquid 7:20, especially the clear version

[@ovedach]

the alphacool pumps with acrylic closing knobs can crack with heat/cooling - causing the liquid to run out all over the case... tried that twice now. recommend replacing them with brass ones.

[@01Gamemaster10]

Great video but 5:42 I would NEVER ever use this liquid in my pc. Maybe you should have said this because not everyone knows that this liquid is made for shows.......NOT for home pc`s. But again......great video :)

[@silverfalcon068]

Dipping your soft tubing in distilled water would've saved me a lot of frustration and sore fingers when doing a custom in my sliver sm570

[@OppaiKun169]

super helpful video

[@Jerichoom]

Watching this in '24 after you've well done your latest itx 4090 build and sure enough: you have gone back to controlling your pump based on GPU temp! 🤣😀 Never say never, eh?

[@nichetcher1]

Very nice TLDR for Jays2cents

[@catojohansen5850]

Tips: use the right Silicone spray on the rubber tubing, super easy to glide and it gives longer life to, they don't dry up,

[@alexandermoshtagh5627]

EKWB has announced that they will also be releasing some thing similar to the barrow pump block you showed

[@stoffel2k5]

Always amazing do view your videos! Thanks man

[@999-y7j3x]

5:15 that's genious gadget.

[@hughlevantjames905]

wonderful video.

[@dlln.1353]

Tip: GPU waterblock heights often do NOT include the height of the pcie connector itself.

[@FreeezY-v1e]

can you make a video of assembly all this together plz???? great video btw

[@katherinesilens2994]

EK X splitters are on sale on their site and are really great for a midline fill/drain and a temperature stop plug combo.

[@Jack-sq9lo]

6:00 That PCI Express holder is just painful to use when switching to another GPU, especially in SFF builds.

[@MD.20.20]

Im still running an original Swiftech 240x AiO with one of their DDCs, and after 5yrs it still runs great, but it can be a little finicky and noisy after refilling sometimes, but after a good shake it quiets down.

[@emptylungs]

Loop order doesn't matter as long as the reservoir comes before the pump I guess...

[@b127_1]

technically speaking, a res is 100% optional, but not having it makes filling the loop very hard. (or just use an external res connected via QDC's)

[@nikolaoskozas8419]

Just what I needed!

[@hamimabd]

Thx it's really helpful

[@wilsyang]

Any plans on reviewing the Sliger S610 and S620?