Pants Fitting: Do I need to Scoop OR Add to Crotch Points???

Today on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm going to share the tale of a set of wrinkles... on two different pairs of jeans on two different ladies. From the back view, both have wrinkles... If that were the only view I had, I would suggest scooping to pick up extra length. But, the back view does not tell the whole story. Checking the side view can add insight as to what is going on. Join me to read the wrinkles from all sides and see how to smooth them.
00:00 Introduction
00:46 Wrinkles on the back legs
01:26 How the side view reveals more about what is causing the wrinkles
02:37 Side view showing you need more length in crotch points
03:38 How to adjust pants pattern to add length to crotch points
07:33 How to add length without adding to crotch points (for slender legs)
08:56 Side view showing too much vertical length on the back leg
09:10 How to adjust the pattern to pick up excess length on back leg
11:00 Scoop back crotch transfers fabric from below crotch level to above it
12:00 What to do with the fabric transferred above the crotch level
12:39 How to remove the extra fabric (vertical length) from your pattern
13:31 You may need to let out the side seams if the legs get too snug
14:07 Outro
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[@JG-fl2ph]

Jenn again soooooooo very super useful to have clear pictures to show and then the pattern adjustments. I know clearpics are a luxury you don’t always have. But this is really the ticket to viewers’ understanding. You are SUCH a gifted teacher. Thank you for sharing.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you so much for the kind words!! & thank you for fitting along with me.

[@patrickaugustine6754]

Thank you for those useful tips. And thanks to the volunteers for sharing.

[@JSternDesigns]

You're welcome! ... (and I'm so grateful for my volunteers)

[@Ucatsexas]

Wow, I’ve struggled with this concept, but no more. Thanks Jenn. You’re an excellent teacher.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!

[@ladannourbakhsh4289]

A really great set of adjustments. I am a new trouser block maker and your approach is making sense to me which is so helpful.

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy to hear! Thank you for fitting along with me... and I apologize for the delay in responding to you.

[@elisabettacamiciottoli6228]

Dear, dear Jenny! WE have to thank you enormously!!!! Your teaching is so useful and clear! I love you!!!!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm happy to hear this helps & thank you for fitting along with me!

[@kathyrockey5591]

Holy Smokes, I have fought those wrinkles for ages. Thank you so much for the multiple ways to look at those adjustments. I think my pants are about to look a whole lot better!

[@JSternDesigns]

You are so welcome! Keep me posted if you need more fine tuning... Thanks for fitting along with me.

[@robinson101011]

The clarity of this video is outstanding.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you so much... and thanks for fitting along with me

[@NadoCrowFriend]

Always such a joy to watch & learn from you!!!

[@JSternDesigns]

Happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@anitalaff]

Your explanation has helped so much! Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

You're very welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me!

[@prof_pudge]

Great topic for this video! Loved it, thank you, Jen.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much! and thank you for fitting along with me!

[@syro6644]

what a good explanation , thank you. I usually need to scoop every pant I make

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks!

[@victoriahasskerl7282]

You just are the best teacher. Thanks..

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate your kind words... and thanks for fitting along with me

[@debbiebacot6667]

Thank you so much, I am making a muslin now and struggling with extra fabric in the crotch area, now before I start making changes I need to look at the back and the side. Very helpful

[@JSternDesigns]

Happy this helped! Good luck fitting your pants

[@gemmaarnold9116]

Really clear explanation! Thank you

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful!

[@seestellysew8472]

This was very informative. Thank you.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks!

[@carollavallee2040]

Thanks, this saved me a lot of time.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it helped! Thank you for fitting along with me!

[@gillianwhaites5974]

How interesting. I’ll subscribe now as I’m learning how to fit and sew.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks for subscribing!! ...and for fitting along with me. Keep me posted if you have any specific questions, I love doing Subscriber Q & A

[@daniellecj3093]

Thank you so much for this explanation. Really clear. Just going to try suggestion for blue trousers.

[@JSternDesigns]

My pleasure, good luck & thanks for fitting along with me

[@elsiebulva7872]

Thank you. I have spent hours this past several weeks trying to make a toile for pants NOT yoga . Just about rid of the butt wrinkles shortening the fabric across the thigh and narrowing up the pant leg keeping the side seam straight. I am petite with thicker thighs and a slightly prominent butt. Will apply your principles and see how I make out.

[@JSternDesigns]

Sounds good.. keep me posted & Thank you for fitting along with me!

[@jgsawka]

Great tips! Thanks so much! ♥️

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful!

[@4golfing]

so amazing. thank you!!!

[@JSternDesigns]

You are so welcome!

[@mayaschapira]

WOW🎉, I have never seen anybody “Diagnose” what might be wrong with a pair of jeans, congratulations, you’re a real pro! I wish I could make an appointment with you, I have quite a few pair of jeans that would need some tender loving care 😢. Regards, Maya from Hungary (a WORLD away from Connecticut). 😀🙏👏👍

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thanks so much!! I'm not sure what the time zone difference is between us... I've gotten together with students from Australia, the UK and Belgium for private pants fitting!

[@mayaschapira]

@@JSternDesigns it’s six hours difference between us 🤦‍♀️😱…I just recently moved to Hungary from Toronto Canada so no plans to visit the US anytime soon. Keep those videos coming, best regards Maya. 🤗

[@janetwilliams7705]

Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

You're welcome!

[@ckoskimies]

Great advice

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks! ...and thank you for fitting along with me

[@hq7108]

❤ thank you ❤️

[@JSternDesigns]

You're welcome 😊

[@cathymatthews5147]

Thanks so much! I've been using trial and error, gradually improving. Please would you address knock knees and bow legs.

[@JSternDesigns]

My pleasure... and I'll add knees to my list of upcoming tutorials!

[@patgottshalk8808]

When identifying if the inseam is too far fore or aft is it personal preference or are there wrinkles to look for? Your wrinkle analysis is wonderful!

[@JSternDesigns]

The inseam is really a style line … you can position it where it looks good. If the crotch fits right, the forward or back position of the inseam should not cause wrinkles

[@chrisboyd3626]

Thank you, thank you! This is great, very easy to understand, especially when you show where the fabric goes after the adjustment! On the blue pants, when you make the adjustment, you lengthen the back crotch seam. Will you have to now lengthen the front crotch seem to match? Also, if you pleat out the excess in the back, will you have to adjust the front crotch seam?

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi Chris, The front and back crotch seams do not "sew together" so you do not need to make equal adjustments to them like you would to seams that sew together like inseams. The same is true for taking length out of the crotch seams to adjust the rise. Let me know if this makes sense! Thank you so much! Jen

[@chrisboyd3626]

@@JSternDesigns thank you. Hope to tackle them this week!

[@aw8655]

Love this video. Can you please address how to deal with swayback adjustment for a large butt.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks! ...and that's a good topic, I'll add it to my list of upcoming tutorials! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@lyndahugill3284]

Hi, fascinating techniques. My fittings are pretty good now except for baggy fabric across the front in the lower part of the zip area, do you have any suggestions please?

[@JSternDesigns]

That sounds like it may be an issue with your center front edge. If you have a rectangle shape and if your pants pattern has an angled CF edge (angling away from the CF edge at the waistline end)... When you zip up your pants, the angled CF edge acts like a dart... .and it pushes the waistline at the side seam up to side on a defined waistline... If your waistline is a similar measurement to your tummy/high hip, there's nowhere for the fabric to go, so it pushes down into the front fly area. Straighten the CF edge to customize the pattern to fit your shape. Here's a tutorial that explains this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGrMcph6gdKpd7M (Customizing the shape starts at 09:52) Hope this helps, Thanks for fitting along with me

[@lyndahugill3284]

@@JSternDesigns Thankyou so much for taking the time to explain this to me. I am trying this next.

[@jojosewist8921]

Another great video. Question why on so many RTW pants is there a diagonal wrinkle that begins just above crotch level in front and goes toward my knee. This wrinkle or excess fabric is right over upper thigh area. One reason want to make my own. Thank you.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks! I think I need to see your wrinkle. If you email me a photo, I can let you know what I think :) [e-mail]

[@cindyboyett3462]

Thank you for your clear directions. I have pants I'm altering for a very large, big, and tall man. The rise isn't long enough, and there are wrinkles in the front. A gusset doesn't work. That creates too much fabric. I believe the solution is scooping down. How far down can you scoop? Because of his size, he can afford to go down quite a bit and still have the pants hang correctly, but these are dress pants, so I don't want to ruin them. Until I stitch and actually cut away the extra fabric, I won't understand if the fit is correct. Any suggestions? Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

...Yes, baste the scoop down and see if it looks better. You can keep scooping down until you think you've removed enough fabric and created enough negative space for him to sit in. If you remove the seam above the scoop, this will release the fabric so you can see how it's fitting.... (also, I would scoop a little at a time... if you scoop too low, that will make the inseam too short, creating a new problem.)... Hope this helps!

[@JoseMedina-xu1vs]

Subtitulo en español, por favor, gracias

[@kayphuff]

That white pair looks pretty darn good already lol.

[@JSternDesigns]

:))) So Close!

[@Brackinese]

11:42 - did something get cut off? This was great by the way!

[@JSternDesigns]

...Ha, something didn't get cut off all the way. I started talking about getting rid of the fabric above the crotch... then screwed up. So I started over after showing the fabric that was moved from below to above the crotch points after scooping! All the info is there! Thanks for watching :)

[@robynnbryar1977]

So if you suggest a 2" seam on your sides for fitting, what do you suggest for other seams such as crotch and center back?

[@JSternDesigns]

I keep those seams the same as what's included in the pattern... It's hard to see what's going on in the crotch/inseam if you have bulky seam allowances there. Thank you for fitting along with me!

[@bmsay2]

What type of fabric would you recommend using for your muslin?

[@JSternDesigns]

I like to use inexpensive pants fabric if I have some on hand... otherwise you can use muslin fabric (if you're working on non-stretch pants)

[@pohchoolow2484]

I hav a low back n flat back how to adjust the fitting 🙏

[@JSternDesigns]

Check out this tutorial! Thanks for fitting along with me! kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4rJamB6or-Ugrc

[@ginadiaz8172]

Confusing it would help if you point to the area on the pants with the problem and show it on the pattern, what is the front and back you are referring to? The front of the pattern or the front of the front leg pattern?

[@JSternDesigns]

Sorry about that... Do you have a specific question I can help with?

[@kimokim6549]

Just curious, When you go out and see people wearing clothes that do not fit quite right, do you unconciously fix the patterns in your head? 😀😀 I often do that unintentionally.

[@JSternDesigns]

ALL the time... I can get distracted really easily by people walking by in ill fitting clothes!

[@chrisy.8789]

How do you know if you should move the inseam forward or backward?

[@JSternDesigns]

:) The inseam is actually a styleline... you can move it where it's most flattering! Look at where it is along your inner thigh. If you can see it & it's not flattering, move it back a little bit. If it looks like it's too far back on your inner thigh, move it forward a little.

[@chrisy.8789]

Thank you for replying my quickly. I’ve been reading about pants fitting because it confuses me and I still don’t know what the difference is between a low seat and a flat seat. I’m not sure which one (or both) that I have.

[@debtaylor2387]

Hello

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi Deb! Thanks for watching

[@janepollock8525]

With your help I have a pants muslin that I am very happy with. It has been a long journey. THANK YOU! Now what adjustments do I make to sew the pants in different fabrics, like Tencel, wool, denim, or to add a lining? Is it just a matter of changing the side seams? After so much work I do not want to change to someone else's pattern. I like the basic muslin - high waist, waistband, and zipper. Just to use a variety of fabrics.

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so happy to hear! Because it's a basic pattern, you can experiment with different fabrics that have the same stretch as the fabric you used to fit it. I would add an inch or so to the side seams and along the waistline for "safety"... Baste the side seams together to see if you need to let them out or take them in ...and you can lower the front or back waistline slightly if needed. Hope this helps!

[@ginadiaz8172]

If you show actual pictures would help tremendously what you are talking about most of your drawing confuses me😢

[@JSternDesigns]

Sorry about that... i always try to be as clear as possible. Do you have a specific question I can help you with?