Power and Control

I get loads of questions about the layout electrics. This should answer some of your questions.

[@EverardJunction]

The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside.

[@WilliamHBaird-eq2hp]

I love the opening scene with the Network Southeast Doubleheader!

[@OldSkoolGrandad]

Very interesting video...I found the wiring on my layout a real challenge..But videos like this really help.

[@EverardJunction]

The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside. It's fine for a small layout, but you might want to use something smaller.

[@humbolt136]

My grandpa had a DC layout about the size of yours so I get what you mean when you say DCC makes it simpler when it gets big! It'll take for ever to take apart!

[@hovermotion]

Cool vid, i use four transformers, one for the track ,one for the point decoders -motors ,one for the lighting & one for the dcc cranes,

[@kierenkeith6446]

The nostalgia of sat watching this on my nexus seven in 2012. Man I feel lucky to of had this content to watch.

[@howarth004]

Well explained Richard , should help a lot of Modellers

[@modelrailwaysuk5388]

I still cant get over how beautifully you have weathered your locos. They look amazing!

[@EverardJunction]

Generally people who build N gauge layouts wire them up the same as OO scale layouts as the N scale locos still require 12V to run. Wiring points up to dcc really improves the running of the trains. However if you can't solder then I would just go with insulfrog points. I would also suggest you learn how to solder as it's required in many aspects of building a model railway.

[@larryrwendelljr4465]

I don't have a system at all, but you have a very nice system, kudos to you for all the work you've put into making your system and this video.

[@FarlandHowe]

Great informational video. Your lighted coaches look fantastic. That is quite the monster power supply. I don't think your signals will be choking for power anytime soon.

[@bloodmarine77]

a very good and well explained video on the electrical workings of the layout and will be very useful for those who are unsure. terry

[@David..B]

I've been wanting you to explain all this on your layout for awhile now :) thank you watching your videos made me get my old lima set down for my 6 year old and now have mountains and town scenery thanks to you. Keep up the good work.

[@johnfp2006]

Thanks for taking the time to go through this. It has really consolidated my knowledge. I am about to start constructing my baseboards but also considering wiring details etc. as well.

[@EverardJunction]

Depending on what lights you want to use will determine if you need resistors. Some lights already have resistors built in.

[@RoamingAdhocrat]

Great videos. I'm quite liking having them playing in the background while I work on other stuff.

[@bikerides]

Great introduction. Well narated and illustrated.

[@steburge1]

Excellent video, every time I watch one I learned something new. Keep them coming best wishes Steve

[@EverardJunction]

The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out of ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside.

[@AVFCAM]

First thought...that double header in the intro looks magnificent!!! Great vid!

[@orinbay]

Thanx for the informative video. I found it very useful, especially the bus wires and the droppers to power the track.

[@EverardJunction]

The 3 way way point is more complex, you have to treat it as two sets of points on the same piece of track. It's been over 3 years since I wired mine up and to be honest I can't remember how I did it.

[@charliebowe8764]

Another great video, it is really helpful as I am at the stage of powering my layout and soldering the track to the bus.

[@daz1975ify]

AHH an A level in electronics,wish I had one of those!! did city and guilds in electrics,but the best thing to do is just try stuff out.Great vid and the layout looks amazing, the lighting in the coaches is very good not to bright or to dim.

[@TheAudiostud]

You make it all sound so simple, Great Work, Well Done!

[@Marcus.D.P]

Thnx for posting m8.....well explained as usual....better than many manuals.....lol....looking forward to more vids.....

[@percomotion]

Excellent video mate very well explained,I've not got round to wiring up my dcc system Ecos esu yet but will do in the autumn and just refer back to your videos for help. Cheers Kev

[@EverardJunction]

The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out of ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside. I think the dropper wire is 1.2mm.

[@dabulphilly]

You and daveclass have the best model railroads I've ever seen

[@ianmartin8420]

Another well presented & informative video from yours truly. Cheers mate, on DC at the moment but hopefully will swap over as the layout develops. keep the videos coming, really helpful as always. Cheers Ian

[@dcdad6]

Excellent video, great details, and the layout is looking rear good, keep the video coming Thanks. Gerry from the USA

[@JtagSheep]

The Lenz system is fantastic for what it is. I do however like the Digitrax system too. Having used both I actually cant say either is better because they are both very high end DCC systems I did start off with a Hornby select just when DCC was first introduced to the market but quickly moved on to the Prodigy Advance unit. A quick note for anyone wanting to get into DCC but wondering how complicated it is well I would say DCC is so much easier than DC due to the fact that you make all the tracks live rather than any insulated sections.

[@christopherkingsland4604]

Sound at the video start was amazing!

[@EverardJunction]

I haven’t really looked into as it's for dc layouts.

[@EverardJunction]

The veg is made by noch. You can buy it from gaugemaster, think their shop is called the engine shed or something similar.

[@jaannetts16]

great vid electrics can be complicated, but u make it work well done would like to see a layout update soon

[@johnthompson5034]

Great to see the old layout and uninsulated loft. On the subject of the DCC bus wiring you were careful to point out that it wasn't a ring circuit, but wouldn't a ring give potentially lower impedance for trains further away from the controller wiring?

[@pipparoo234]

Great video Richard the layout looks great cheers Ian

[@EverardJunction]

I twisted the long lengths of cable for the point motors just to try and keep things tidy.

[@AndyHudson-ModelRailwayBuilds]

fantastic video Richard, I'm just about to wire mine up now, done the droppers but not added the buzz wire, but loads of help and advice from this, don't suppose you could explain how you program your locos, I know you can set them for acceleration and braking etc etc etc, but any advice would be appreciated cheers andy

[@EverardJunction]

I bought mine from DCC supplies. That was over 4 years ago and it was about £400 including the power supply back then. It's a bit cheaper now.

[@bartoncessna1]

Another really great vid. Thanks for taking the time. Your layout is looking fab BTW. cheers.

[@hercdriver08]

I've recently begun to get back into model trains after many years. 40-plus to be more accurate. I used to have a small, well landscaped DC setup when I was young. Wiring and operation were very simple. Approaching retirement, I now have the time (and resources) to go hog-wild. Being new to DCC, and not having begun construction of my layout yet (it's still in the conceptual and planning stages), I've spent many hours reading and studying the changes in the hobby to make sure I avoid as many catastrophes and costly errors as possible. I've watched hundreds of "how-to" videos on KZbin but I have to say, yours are far and above the most informative and helpful I've found. Please keep making them! I have one question though; have you given thought to wiring your signals into your point motors for automatic signalling? I'll be running a moderate sized passenger station as well as a couple of large freight yards and signalling is a significant part of my planned layout. I was wondering the what the best ways to might be to accomplish automatic signalling. Great work. Thanks again!

[@EverardJunction]

hercdriver08 Thanks for the comment. I'll be looking into wiring some signals to points but only the ones with directional indicators. The few signals I do have are currently wired to work automatically on a time basis and use the trains to trigger them. I have another howto in the making about how they work which I'll try to get finished before christmas.

[@largesatsuma]

Really beautiful layout.

[@EverardJunction]

Both are good. The gaugemaster prodigy advance is more high tech, but the hornby elite simpler and easier for the beginner. Just comes down to what you prefer.

[@EverardJunction]

Thanks Kev, just try to keep the wires neat and you'll be fine. Some of mine has become very tangled and confusing.

[@EverardJunction]

Thanks, I haven't done much recently. I might be able to an update at the end of the month.

[@EverardJunction]

An attic is quite good place to build, but has its problems. Advantages.. Plenty of space Good security Doesn't matter if you make a mess Quiet Disadvantages Cold in winter, hot in summer If you're tall headroom can be a problem Lots of lighting or a window is required

[@EverardJunction]

I have a single slip on the junction. I've not yet got around to wiring it with point motors.

[@simranvirdee7500]

okay. Just want to say your videos are amazing and you have done a fab job

[@EverardJunction]

Intercity Mk1s, Mk2s and Mk3s had black roofs. However this would get dirty and more of a grey colour with age.

[@kevintregunna]

Good video once again they have all been very helpful to me and have given me some ideas on my layout thanks

[@jimross623]

New Hornby Elite controllers are £215 from Hattons, and £249 from Hornby!

[@joedavis9048]

Very nice layout. Thanks for sharing

[@ravzir]

Didn't ask for this, but a great surprise :D Thank you for all the details!

[@devganesh7808]

I really like your videos and find them easy to follow. I'm new to the hobby and so I have some basic doubts, like.... does only one pair on wheels on the loco sense the current from the tracks? Reason being, if more than one set of wheels are used to pick up the current, then there could be a conflict when changing blocks, or when in a reverse loop situation when polarities are switched. In the second case, the two sets of wheels could sense opposite polarities at the same time! I'm sure that will never happen, but I need to clarify the doubt. Thanks, Ganny.

[@turnout999]

Great video very very helpful... Cheers I have learnt so much from this.........

[@marlcliff]

Thank you had to re watch as my layout aint working due to shorting. I will have to re-do the wiring. Its the points im having trouble with

[@EverardJunction]

I will be doing a howto video for the signal control board later this year.

[@mikewood8239]

Another really useful episode, but I have one question....what are the wire sizes of your BUS and Dropper wires? Most of the information around seems to refer to the American AWG system. Can you shed some light on this please?

[@TotallyScaleModels]

Great video and very informative

[@PaulSmith-pl7fo]

Hi Richard. I assume you solder dropper-wires to your track (rather than, say, use pre-soldered rail joiners) so as to maintain a reliable connection. So, I wondered why you chose the splice and spade connectors; I have seen other users prefer not to use these connectors because they believe the connections are not so reliable as soldered joints. Have you experienced any problems with splice and spade connectors?

[@paulduncan3214]

Surely the track 1/2 outputs on the model "D" can give 5v and -5v or anything 12v to -12v ?

[@EverardJunction]

Thanks, I've done a few other intros which will appear in the next few vids.

[@challochjunction2233]

Know you have a regulated supply, but could use a L7805 on your board which would convert 12V dc to 5V dc. Could save some expense for other people.

[@EverardJunction]

Challoch Junction Nothing wrong with making your own supply. A common one is to modify a computer power supply.

[@rdarchitect]

i like ur layout style, colour and texture. gj

[@EverardJunction]

You should be ok if it's looped. I didn't loop it to save wire as I would have had to loop all the way back to the beginning.

[@EverardJunction]

Ok, from what you said it sounds like you have a tender drive hornby flying scotsman. The square truck with the coal in it is called the tender. Steam trains with the motor in the tender are very unreliable. They don't actually make them like that anymore. I would suggest you take the train to your local model shop and get them to have a look at it. Most most shops will service and repair model trains for you.

[@mrtelecaster009]

Hi Richard, very informative. What gauge bus wire do you use and is the same gauge wire ok for a smaller layout? Andy

[@Matthewmodeller229]

Only three comments at current. 4 now. Never seen this little on an EverardJunction video ever!

[@Angrist17]

Was there any particular reason that you went with Lenz over Digitrax at the time? I'm looking into the Digitrax systems, and I really like the Loconet setup, but not so much on the throttle design.

[@EverardJunction]

Yes I did have to on the lower parts on some of them.

[@EverardJunction]

That will be ok to start with, no sure how powerful those units are though.

[@darrenjohnson1979]

thanks another very good video from u ? i wish i had ur cirtuity know how ??? thank you lov your layout

[@mtty1988]

I can a bit found out using Rong volt iron. If use insulfrog point i would wire each track of it to the bus. Is the bus better out or wire or copper tape what size wire do u use(the thick wire) is that needed or is the thick Peco/gaugemaster ok to use. Dose the splice some within instructions or are they oblivious how to use.

[@lukeknights7381]

you said that the bus wire isn't a loop, then wouldn't having two long pieces of wire be an unfinished circuit and not supply power?

[@EverardJunction]

I'll have to do separate video for that. I have one planned, just need the time to do it.

[@MorfieldCentral]

I have to be honest and say I used your experience and vids when I was looking for a system... I got the lenz also!... I also got the wifi and point add ons for computer control... Eventually. Lol. Btw, am I right in saying you can't run trains on the prog track? Cheers, Lee

[@EverardJunction]

How old is your flying scotsman and who makes it? Are you refering to the small wheel under the cab of one of the front wheels?

[@rubixcubeguy8]

Hi. Great video. I have a few questions for, if possible, to answer. How much money do you usually spend on trains and carraiges etc? I have a problem, i have a flying scotsman and all the time the front wheel of the back engine keeps lifting up and wobbling which means all the time it derails. Please help me with this. Is there any way to solve this. Ie. tightening something etc. as im quite new to model trains. Thanks

[@CreweslyRoad4472]

can u wire up a bus wire for standard lighting off the accessory contacts on the Hornby R965 controller?

[@EverardJunction]

It did it to save wire as I would have had to loop all the way back to the beginning .

[@ChestertoEuston158]

Thanks I will be putting lights on my layout asap thanks for the help

[@jimross623]

What thickness in mm are the dropper wires and the bus wires?

[@mtty1988]

I am using n gauge and want to use copper tape as cant solder but see ur slice and the bus is huge wire wood it be needed in n . If wire all 3 set of the point to a separate bus would i need seep motor. In n if using elite and pos railmaster with about 5 loco at once wood can i use dcc points

[@ChestertoEuston158]

Thank you so much for this video just a quick question. How thick is the bus wire that goes around the layout? Thanks for your help

[@EnterprisingRailFilms]

What's it like building in a actic? The reason is I'm hoping to start an model oo gauge irish railway.

[@SolarRailway]

Nice explanation video!

[@EverardJunction]

I use flexi-track on most of the layout.

[@rubixcubeguy8]

Im not to sure who makes the flying scotsman and i brought it of an exhibition stall around a year and a half ago. And also it was second hand when i got it and not sure how old it was before i got it. It is the front wheel of the engine carrage , i dont know what its called ( it is the part that has the coal bit on it and has the engine in it and its at the back of the 2 parts it comes with ie. the front which is the long part which has the pick ups and the back part with the engine in it) ??

[@brandondavis-white3352]

Thank you for your very helpful information.What DCC Controllers would you recommend because I can't chose between Gaugemaster or Hornby.

[@EverardJunction]

The only reason I didn't buy digitrax was beacause of the way they looked. The lenz had the same functionality and looked a bit better.

[@jacobporrett]

Very intresting.

[@davidrichens4453]

This might be a stupid question, but is there any risk of getting electric shocks from just having your bus wires cut off at the end?

[@EverardJunction]

I get them from rapid electronics, the details are in the video.

[@EverardJunction]

Yes I do still have that.

[@hillsdeng1]

Are you not a fan of the DCC sound things. I noticed when you turned the light off your Intercity rake seems to have the same coloured roof the First Open one i bought yesterday has a black roof and my intercity 125's have a grey one was this normal to have different variations or colours

[@philiplogue2344]

Hello. Really enjoying these videos so thanks for doing them. I'm returning to model railways after many years and am intrigued by the technology. In this you showed a 3rd power supply from Rapid to power your signals. Could you have used this power supply to power both your signals and your accessory bus simultaneously? I'm looking to minimise the cost of starting again. Thanks again.

[@EverardJunction]

You should be able to use a single power supply. Make sure you use a CDU if you are using solenoid point motors.

[@philiplogue2344]

Will do. Thank you very much.

[@ferriesdover]

Just uploaded to a forum I use...Thanks.