Quincy QT-54 Running with custom aftercooler

I took ideas from other people on KZbin and applied it in my own way. MrFireman164 has the best one in my opinion.
I ran this loaded for 1 hour. Roughly 1/2 qt of water was removed with the new aftercooler and auto auto-drain. I drained the tank through the bottom drain valve after all of this and there was next to zero moisture in the tank itself.
Derale Oil cooler PN:15300 Made in USA and pressure tested to 250psi. Really high quality cooler from what I can tell and at a really good price. I chose this as it has -8 (1/2") JIC input and output for easy hookup.
I used -8 AN fittings and hose ordered off of eBay and roughly $30 in fittings from Northern Tool and Fleet Farm.

[@prawnstar502]

bro this is what im talking about.. everyone tryna run bent tubing and im over here tryna run mesh flexible tubing like u.. much easier

[@jamesd7700]

So clean. Job well done. Seems to be very effective. Especially if it was 300+ degrees before. Hopefully everything will last even longer now.

[@jsnyara]

Thanks! And the biggest benefit will be zero moisture getting to paint spray guns and plasma cutter.

[@deegan727]

Very nice setup. I just bought a QT-54. It’s not wired up yet, but after seeing your temps out of the pump I ordered a cooler. A Hayden 1290 that I’ve seen other people running. I hope I get temps like yours after the cooler. Great vid, thanks for posting.

[@MobileCustoms]

that's a sweet setup you have!

[@polaristoyz]

Great idea... What is the Model or Part # for the PARKER separator that you used? THANKS !!!

[@cmcc1971]

Where did you get that Parker separator and what’s the part number please sir??

[@Garth2011]

Did that Quincy come with a Baldor motor or another make? Great idea to use the pully fan for air movement...it works real well. That unit is very quiet it seems too.

[@jsnyara]

yes it did come with a Baldor motor!

[@ruhltodd]

I just bought one and it doesn't look like they're using Baldor motor's anymore.

[@Garth2011]

@@ruhltoddI think they use WEG as well. They use maybe 3 brands including the Baldor it seems

[@ruhltodd]

@@Garth2011 This one is made in China. I purchased it yesterday.

[@ruhltodd]

@@Garth2011 I'm actually debating on bringing it back because of it. I had an ingersoll rand in the shop for 4 years and burnt up 2 motors before I bit the bullet and bought a Baldor. I gave the compressor to a friend and bought this one thinking it had a Baldor motor.

[@tomkowalewski15]

I just bought the same compressor and am considering adding an aftercooler. My concern with the way that you have yours configured is that by placing the aftercooler behind the cooling fan, the air that is used to cool the cylinders is now heated by the aftercooler first. That not only recirculates some of the heat back into the compressing system, but would also cause the compressor cylinders to run hotter and possibly not receive adequate cooling. Seems like a separate cooling fan is needed to best get the heat out.

[@jsnyara]

I wouldn't worry about it one bit. The fan/pulley doesn't pull a whole lot of air through the aftercooler as there is no shroud. A fan on the aftercooler would be nice but a total waste of time and space in my eyes. This setup did not make the cylinder heads or case any hotter after installation.

[@tomkowalewski15]

@@jsnyara Checking the air flow on my compressor, I can see that you are correct. I think I'm going to mostly mimic your setup. I found the Parker filter on ebay as well for $50 with shipping and ordered that. Just need to get the radiator and figure out what lines and adapters to get. Thanks much for sharing your project!

[@tomkowalewski15]

@@jsnyara A couple more questions for you: Where did you get your AN fittings and hose? On the site anfittingsdirect.com, looks like the fittings and hose needed totals to about $120 with shipping. Also, what type of adapter was needed to convert from AN-8 to the flare fittings on the compressor output and tank input? Thanks much for your help on this!

[@tomkowalewski15]

I did get the fittings figured out. The tube between the second stage output and the tank had standard compression fittings, so I created an adapter similar to yours on the tank fitting, and replaced the cylinder output fitting with an AN-8 type. I was also able to install the cooling radiator inside the compressor wire cage for protection. There's about a half inch of clearance to the pulleys. Just waiting for parts to come in and we'll plumb it together!

[@anonghost8765]

@@tomkowalewski15 can you let me know what you picked up as far as parts? I have the same compressor and my cooler has the 8AN in and out. These fittings are driving me insane. Also I found 8AN compression fittings and can’t figure out if they can be used on copper.

[@paulmanhart4481]

Great video. Can you tell me how you connected that hose to the unloader valve on the pressure sensor? It looks like a 1/8” NPT but it’s not. This is where the little copper tube connected the unloader valve to the brass fitting at the tank input. This is driving me crazy. I have a 1/4” hose that will go from unloader valve up to the exit port of the compressor. But I can’t find a fitting that works. Thanks, Paul

[@jsnyara]

I believe it was a 1/2" or 3/8" compression to 1/2" male npt pipe adapter which is going into 1/2" female npt adapter

[@richgcoop1842]

Put a couple computer fans on the air core and ity them into the compressor switch

[@jsnyara]

Computer fans are 12vdc, you would need 120v or 220vac fans to work. I get what you're saying but it is very unnecessary since the pully has blades cast into it, it is one large fan.

[@darrylsooknanan904]

WOW..absolutely amazing and clean/simple job sir. I am actually going to buy my first home compressor and this was a very informative video. I was just wondering if you would be so kind to tell me the model number on that yellow parker filter with the auto drain that you have? I can't seem to find much info on the correct one. Thanks!

[@jsnyara]

Parker AAp015CNFI. I got lucky on Ebay and found one for $45. You can search "Coalescing filter autodrain". Get one that looks like mine and has an auto-drain feature. They're all pretty much the same for our home applications. The efficiency numbers and stuff don't really matter for what we're doing. Just get one with 1/2 NPT ports, or 3/8 NPT if you prefer. They have a built in float so when the water level gets high enough it will open up the drain whether its pressurized or not.

[@darrylsooknanan904]

@@jsnyara Thanks for the fast reply. Can a Parker AOP020DNFI work too, as far as the auto drain with the float? And that's a sweet deal my friend! You deserved it! lol How has the 8AN fittings and hose holding up since? any leaks?

[@jsnyara]

@@darrylsooknanan904 Sorry, I missed your reply. Yes that will work, the port sizes are pretty large (3/4") so you'll have to use a couple reducers.

[@jonnylowkon]

Thank you! I just bought this compressor. Did running the cooler on the rear fan cage did that heat coming off the cooler increase the air compressor head temps any? I was thinking of putting it off the side with extra fan like they sell this same cooler with just more expensive.

[@jsnyara]

No increase in head temps. There is so much air moving all around there as there is no ducting.

[@emmanuelmata]

How is your setup holding up? What type of flexible hose did you use?

[@jsnyara]

The Flexible hose between the compressor outlet and the aftercooler failed, it couldn't handle the heat. Will replace with hardline. Everywhere else I used the hose it's holding up just fine. It's just AN fuel pressure hose.

[@michaelports2295]

Firebirdjimbo, I am in the process of putting on an after cooler. I have the QT54 as well. Having trouble determining the fittings you used after stage two and into the tank. I have hoses w AN10 fittings. What fittings did you use and where did you get them? Thanks for the help. Dean

[@jsnyara]

Stage 1 is first compression, then it goes to an intercooler right into the second stage of compression. From there it goes through the aftercooler, then the auto drain and finally into the tank. If you're asking about the fitting right at the tank, I used a 1/2 compression fitting on the copper pipe to 1/2" male NPT, that goes into a 1/2" female npt to -8JIC. Now remember. JIC and AN are the same thing. AN fittings are generally made out of aluminum and are intended for mobile applications, both JIC and AN have the same face angle and threads and are interchangeable. Your 10AN or (-10) hose is 5/8". You may have a harder time finding fittings that work for you or you may have to use reducers in certain places.

[@Bobtrain007]

What type of lines did you use?

[@jsnyara]

Automotive fuel lines. They got stiff after a few heat cycles and don't bend anymore but haven't had any issues yet.

[@BigNicky77]

Sorry, one more question😁 I found a few of the 8 AN kits on eBay. I see the braided hose that is similar to what you used. Most of the temperature ratings show a max of 250°F. In your video you show a temp of 300 coming out of the pump and going to the inner cooler. Do you have a hose with a higher rating, or are most of the automotive/racing hose sufficient/ ok to go a little hotter? Thank you

[@jsnyara]

I honestly don't expect that hose to last thats coming straight out of the compressor, it has hardened significantly. My compressor has 2 hours of runtime on it now so I hardly ever use it. I doubt the hose would last under lots of use but I'm just kinda waiting for it to fail.

[@BigNicky77]

@@jsnyara ok, thank you.

[@BigNicky77]

Great video! I saw the parts in the description. Just making sure the fitting coming out of the cylinder and going to the cooler is 1/2 inch npt or 8AN?

[@jsnyara]

1/2" NPT to -8JIC. same as AN just steel and cheaper.

[@BigNicky77]

@@jsnyara thank you!

[@paulmanhart4481]

How did you handle the unloader valve? Or does your cooler purge the air every time it shuts off? Thanks

[@jsnyara]

These compressors don't have unloading valves. It releases the excess head pressure once the tank gets up to the set pressure.

[@paulmanhart4481]

@@jsnyara Hi. Yes they have an unloader valve. It’s located in the pressure switch. That’s what the little 1/4” line is for. The one that connects to the brass tee where the air goes into the tank. It branches off and comes out to connect to the pressure switch. So you need to remove it from the tee and connect it before the check valve that lies between your air outlet and cooler. If not, then all the air in your cooler gets purged when the motor shuts down. I come out of my compressor to a tee. The tee connects to a check valve that goes to my cooler. The other part of the tee goes down to the pressure switch and unloader valve. It replaces that little copper tubing. So when the motor shuts off, the only air purged is in that one line going from pressure switch to tee above.

[@halfstep67]

I have a Quincy QT54 I bought a couple years ago. Mine has the "made in the USA" sticker and the tag on the pump says "made in the USA" also. Being USA made is the main reason I bought mine. On the newer QT54, the sticker now says "assembled in the USA" and the tag on the pump now says "made is china". It appears the Quincy has decided to go overseas and become just another china made product.

[@jsnyara]

Yes, you are correct. I didn't find that out until after I bought mine. I was disappointed as well.

[@stepheneggert7388]

Nice video...good information..to see..if u look at my utube video..ul see my air comprsoir. And the fan on the motor that cools the air going into the rad...then into the tank.. the air is room temperature..I get vary little water in the tank..check my video out at Stephen eggert , my utube channel..its a new ..my comprsoir is a 60 fully loaded pkg..I looked at 3 different American made comprsoirs q...was my 2 nd choice..again great video..ty