Rear Brake Pad Rotor Replacement Ford Mustang (2010-2014) ***DIY***

Hey Guys,
Helped a buddy out today on his 2014 Ford Mustang brake job. An independent shop wanted over $600 and we were able to get it done for $140.
Here is the complete walkthrough on the Rear Brake removal and installation with new rotors and pads.
The Carrier torque value is 65 Ft.-lbs
The Caliper torque value is 25 Ft.-lbs
The wheel torque specs are 100 Ft.-lbs
Enjoy the Video!!!
Cheers!
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#ford #mustang #brakesystems
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BradleysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BradleysGarage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BradleysGarage.

[@RamblinMoonchild]

Doing my uncles mustang this weekend, excited to do the job now, thanks!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments RamblinMoonChild. Just make sure you got the caliper tool and you will be good to go. Let us know how the repair goes on your project, Cheers!

[@EASTCAMDENRD]

Nice video my guy🏆

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Rodney, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

[@georgief1887]

Another question on the rear tires it take a bit of force to get them to rotate when in neutral. I drive a manual btw. Sry for all the questions

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Georgie, There will be some resistance but you want to make sure there is nothing rubbing at the caliper or rotor with the emergency brake off, in neutral. Keep in mind you are still spinning the Axle and Driveshaft even in neutral. If you have a posi or limited slip differential then it will be spinning both wheels which is even more resistance. (rear wheels off the ground) Just make sure you don't have any brake components applying pressure to the rotor. If it's just drivetrain that you are feeling, then you are good. Hope this helps, Cheers!

[@georgief1887]

Yea i Did all you told me, I just want to make sure it’s normal for the smell to come from one tire and not the other

[@BradleysGarage]

Your are good to go, nothing to worry about 😎

[@georgief1887]

One more question, I changed both rear rotors and pads, and took for a test drive and idk why just from one side it smelling like it’s burning and hot air coming out from the rear driver side. Is that normal

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Georgie, it is completely normal for there to be a smell coming from the fresh pads. I would recommend performing a "Pad Break-In" procedure to ensure the new pads are set with the new rotors. You get a fair amount of smell during this procedure but after the brakes cool down, you will notice a much more improved pedal feel and brake response. Pad/Rotor Break0In Procedure: 1. Read through the procedure and find a suitable, safe and legal area to perform the necessary stops. 2. BEFORE starting the break-in procedure, drive with gentle braking. Do not use brakes aggressively until completing the break-in procedure. 3. Make a series of 15 stops from 50 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 50 again for the next stop. Run all stops continuously in one cycle. 4. During the 50 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approximately 50 and begin the braking cycle. KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE ROAD AND APPROXIMATE YOUR SPEED AT THE END OF EACH CYCLE. 5. A moderate braking effort is needed to properly bed-in the rotors and pads. A stopping force of approximately 0.8G’s, or just short of ABS intervention is the level of pedal effort you are trying to attain. NOTE: BEFORE COMPLETING THE BREAK-IN, DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP WHILE THE PADS AND ROTORS ARE VERY HOT! THIS WILL TRANSFER PAD MATERIAL NON-UNIFORMLY ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION DURING FUTURE USE. Please let us know how it goes, Cheers!

[@waynehutchinson7936]

Hi good video, just a quick question, where is the the hand brake on the rear connected .i am DIY thanks

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Wayne, the cable goes through the backside of the backing plate. You can see it if you remove the rear caliper and remove the rotor. It simply applies two small brake shoes on the inside of the rotor hat. It is electronically controlled but works just like if you were pulling up on an emergency brake handle. Hope this helps answer your question, Cheers!

[@waynehutchinson1423]

@@BradleysGarage Thank you for the reply,l am using your vid,next week.l subbed ,hope you make more videos.

[@georgief1887]

So after I did all that I started to turn my wheel n it sounds like it’s scraping against metal not sure if that’s normal

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Georgie, that sounds pretty normal depending on the pad choice you went with. Semi-Metallic sound like that, especially in the beginning. Carbon ceramic will be quieter and produce less of that metal to metal sound. Cheers!

[@JonJonChannel]

Can you use the Rear Caliper Piston tool for fronts as well?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Jon, thanks for the question. Yes, inside the kit there will be a round disc that can be used to just push the piston back without turning it. So you are able to use it on all types of Calipers, both single piston and dual piston along with the rotating style. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@antoniobendherazz4458]

So I assume the brake reservoir cap needs to be loosened before pushing the caliper back in ?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Antonio, thanks for the question. The brake resevoir itself is not under pressure so there is always venting there. It's not necessary to loosen the cap before pushing the pistons back. You can just check the fluid level after getting the new pads on and taking the test drive. Good luck with your project, Cheers!

[@antoniobendherazz4458]

@@BradleysGarage makes sense. Thank you

[@williamchambers8176]

Hey Brad,, i'm in a jam. I bought both new rear calipers from Detroit axle, i painted them so i cannot return them. Problem:; both "bracketry" are upside-down or on the wrong side. I don't know how to get them apart to at least try to correct them. I have nobody else to talk to. Can you please help me ?

[@williamchambers8176]

Bracketry:: the plate on the back of caliper that the E-brake cable is held,pre-loaded spring, 13mm nut holding the spring on and a t27 torx holding it on ?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey William, thanks for the question, sorry you are having trouble with your calipers. I know the part you are referring to but it's hard to picture exactly what it looks like. Would you mind reaching out to us over on our Instagram page? That way you can send pictures and video if needed so we can help you get sorted out. Instagram - instagram.com/bradleygarage/ Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@themarvelousvintage76]

Hold on so if you using c clamps and just push the rear piston won't go back you need rotated?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Daniele, thanks for the question. Yes, unfortunately Ford decided to use the threaded piston style Calipers in the rear of the mustang so you will need to rent or own the caliper tool in order to "push" the piston back. It's not just Ford, numerous auto manufacturers use that style of Calipers. Most auto part stores that rent or loan out tools have the caliper kit you can borrow. We hope the video helps you out with your repair, Cheers!

[@themarvelousvintage76]

@BradleysGarage I change this morning then front one I was by to start the rear one thank god I didn't because I didn't have the tool.....

[@BradleysGarage]

@@themarvelousvintage76 Sounds good, glad you got the fronts done. Just go rent that caliper tool kit for the rear and you will be set. Cheers!

[@themarvelousvintage76]

@@BradleysGarage I will thank you

[@1925sk]

The procedure for depressing the rear piston, with the special tool, is that a done deal?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey CB, yes for the rear you need the special caliper tool in order to "push" the piston in. It simply twists and pushes the piston back to make room for the new pads. Most auto parts stores rent this caliper tool kit in order to complete the job. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

[@1925sk]

I put it all together and realized I didn’t check to see if the slots in the piston were aligned with the round pin on the brake pad.

[@1925sk]

That wasn’t mentioned in the video.

[@BradleysGarage]

@@1925sk Hey CB, the round pin on the back of the pad is for lining up the pad into the bottom groove of the carrier. Nothing on the pad has to line up with the piston itself. Those two grooves are solely for pushing the piston back in when changing the pads. Apologies for not pointing that out in the video. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

[@1925sk]

I beg to differ. Found this on a Ford blog. No big deal, To Install: Install the rotor. Install the caliper support. Using Rear Caliper Piston Adjuster T87P-2588-A or other suitable tool, rotate the caliper piston clockwise until the piston is fully seated. NOTE: Ensure that one of the 2 slots in the rear brake piston face is positioned so it will engage the nib on the back of the inner brake pad.

[@Sprchgjeep]

Damn Ford's....

[@thomasdaum1927]

Well done , thanks !…….

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words, hope this helps you with your project, Cheers!

[@thomasdaum1927]

@@BradleysGarage It will , doing the brakes on a 2014 Grabber Blue V6 with the pony package. Putting on a set of BRF 1081 & BRF 1452 pads . Thanks !……

[@BradleysGarage]

Sounds great, those factory Motorcraft pads should treat you good. Have fun getting it done, Cheers!

[@thomasdaum1927]

@@BradleysGarage Have been using the BRSD Motorcraft pads on the F 150 . They stop better and are easer on the rooters than the Hawk LTS Pads ! Btw they are about $40 bucks cheaper ! You can get them on E bay .

[@bCKization]

600 sounds about right

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments, hopefully the video can help save a ton of cash on this repair. It's pretty straightforward utilizing basic tools. Cheers!

[@hankhill4542]

The latex gloves are very distracting

[@BradleysGarage]

Sorry Hank, I have been wearing them for 20+ years and love them. Apologies for the distraction. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!