Refurbishing Lathe Chucks

In this video I will walk you through the process of refurbishing three chucks to fit my LeBlond metal lathe - a 3-Jaw, 4-Jaw and 6-Jaw chuck. Grease, grime, and rust is all removed as these chucks are taken apart, cleaned, and put back together to get them ready for use.
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[@notsofresh8563]

I have a bag of glass marbles i got at a garage sale i use to take up space when soaking things, to reduce product usage. Kinda like a brick in the toilet tank to reduce water. Glass marbles are ideal because they are non reactive to almost any chemical you can throw at them, non conductive and fill up small spaces. They also work in an electrolysis tank. Bonus tip, marbles/ball bearings inside any container you need to shake before use like paint, or lapping compound or whatever, really speeds up the mixing. Hold on to your marbles, Once you lose them, things get weird....

[@locomotives9217]

I soaked my marbles in alcohol... I'm sure there still fine, but I can't find them.

[@enigmagic]

That's genius. I'm definitely going to use that. Do you ever notice the marbles leaving any sort of pattern on contact with the items you soak?

[@georgegordonbrown9522]

My thougts exactly.

[@LAsparkTVWireTestLimited]

brilliant tips

[@notsofresh8563]

@@LAsparkTVWireTestLimited Here is another: If a 4mm allen key fits into a bolt, so does a 4mm ball bearing. If you super glue it in there, nothing but a soak in acetone is gonna get it out. Cant drill it, cant hammer it out, cant grab it..... If you peen over the head of the bolt, the bearing is in there for good... Very effective anti-theft/anti tamper.

[@ChuckRoss77]

Great video as always Mr. Rucker. I'm a CNC machinist looking to go backwards. You, Mr. Booth, Mr. Fenner, and that goof Mr. Lipton have taught me so much in the manual machining world. The shop that I work in, has more antique yet still operable machinery than I've ever seen. I see machines at work...sitting in dark corners of the shop...collecting dust, that I know I could run because of you guys. I can't thank ya'll enough.

[@zumbazumba1]

its not easy to be accurate on old lathe ,no dro ,wear in slides ,wear in chucks,dammn thing turns tapers etc... Stick to the cnc machining ,there is a reason why those machines stay in dark corners.

[@ChuckRoss77]

zumbazumba1 I agree and disagree at the same time. I run some impressive machines...I throw code at them...make offsets...and I'm good for days. Personally, manual machining is an intimate thing...CNC is less controlled by me...hence the CNC. I'd prefer to be in more control...intimately...while trying not to sound like a dirty bird.

[@zumbazumba1]

I do get you what you mean ,machinist brother from another mother.For 5 years i am a machinist on manual universal lathes.If you have the right idea they are indeed universal ,from turning one to milling machine ,hobbing gears to making keyways.You aint gonna do that on a 500k worthy cnc lathe machine.Cnc machines can do amazing things but also they kill the creativity,there is no room for improvisation. I recommend that you stick to your job with cnc machines for $$$ and secretly cheat on it with a manual south bend or similar lathe in your basement. When a man owns a milling machine and a lathe with right tools and right mind and materials nothing is impossible.

[@ChuckRoss77]

zumbazumba1 Honestly, I couldn't have said it better myself. You, my friend, are my machinist brother...from that other mother of which you speak. I currently have two engine lathes on my radar...an exceptional Clausing and an old clapped out Mori Seiki. Bridgeports are a dime a dozen in my situation...but...I'm a lathe guy...have been, and preferably, will always be. It makes me think of Abom and how much enjoyment he gets out of that old Monarch of his. The thing is... I want that. I'd prefer not to have a fanuc controller screen staring me in the face all day. I do enjoy what I do...don't get me wrong...but I'd prefer the calculations were made from what's under my hat...rather than some computer.

[@zumbazumba1]

When buying lathe biggest concern is condition of the slides,most will have wear from use(usualy around chuck where people work most of time ).Check the wiggle of the compound and the cross slide with dial indicator -those have gibs that can be tighten usualy but sometimes they need new gib(can be made new but costs money ) or they need to be ground and scraped. Check for backlash in a cross slide screw-1/10 of a mm is a normal backlash when nut and screw are new(also can be made new but costs money).If cross and compound slide have no play and gibs are set correctly backlash wont have that much of a influence on a precision. Check the main spindle,put a dial indicator on is or on the chuck and then with a long bar try to move it up and down-this will tell you a condition of ball bearings /bushings.(can buy new -again costs money). Check if bushings /taperd roller bearings can be tightend-old machines use bushings that are good up to max 600rpm and need to be oiled.Newer machines use ball bearings on main spindle axe and their speed s go up to 3000 rpm usualy.-this is important because carbide inserts like higher speeds,older machines were made for hss blanks. Open the cover of the lathe and check the main gears ,if you see any of them are blue(runing withouth oil ) or damaged if they are run away and never look back . Check the tail stock quill with dial indicator -same as main spindle.Lock the tail stock and push quill against chuck to see if tail stock thread is stripped.With your finger check if the tail stock morse taper is smooth and undamaged-this can be reamed if damaged but again its a pain in the ass and costs money. Check the condition of the pulleys on the motor and on the main gear if machine has them,And the condition of belts.-this is easy to make new but again it costs money so why not bring it down. Bring a micrometer and peace of steel to turn and test the machine you are buying.See if it turns too much of a taper.(this can be due tailstock beeing missaligned properly ,run in a slides or machine not leveld properly-i shit you not ) Try heavy cuts(10mm pass for heavy machine ,5-8 mm for meduim ,3-4mm for smaller ones ) and see how macahine handles them.If it doesnt stop the clutch is ok(if it has it,new machines do have ).If it skips the cut clutch can be worn out or simply needs to be tighten(when buying old machine check for spare parts if they are still available-thats one big factor to consider) Last thing is drop the price down for every single mistake you find that can be fixed-it will cost you.Most of the sales guys know jack shit about machines and claim that machine is in PERFECT BRAND NEW condition . I dropped the drill press price form 1000$ to a 400$ when i looked at it and said what needs to be replaced. When i fixed it grand total was 500$ and some time. Old machines can be restored to a brand new condition when scraped and restored for a half of price of a new one - if you know a place where you can send it.I seen it on a youtube guy sends in his surface grinder like 50 years old and they scrape the slides ,repalace ball bearings and for 20k$ he has old- new machine that is capeble of 1/1000 precision grinding that will last for another 50 years to come. This is all that comes to my mind right now ,probably i missed something. Hope you buy something that fits your needs and serves you for many years to come. www.homews.co.uk/page463.html check this dude its Harolld Hall -author of workshop practice series of books.he has many projects you can do and build your own machines for fraction of cost .

[@bobbystanley8580]

I love how you rethought everything when it got tight instead of breaking something.

[@WillyBemis]

Hi Keith, I just rewatched this video, which helped me work on the Cushman chuck that came with my Monarch 10EE. Thanks again.

[@TheGamerFeat0815]

These Chucks are metric, because they come from southern germany. That brand is Röhm, a manufacter especially for chucks, drill cucks and vises. Greetings from Germany, Nils

[@loftsatsympaticodotc]

And Röhms are very good (German). We had/have both 3 jaw and 4-jaw Röhm chucks on several lathes for sale here at Machineco in Montreal. Anyone interested? We're Toll free 1-888-459-4025 for all questions about lathes etc.

[@thomaseisen304]

The 6 jaw is a special one ...it's made for tubes or cylindrical objects

[@jdod64]

I have a Röhm .32sw revolver. They should have stuck with machine tools lol

[@Road38910]

True, but remember the Simpsons episode were Homer joined the 'Stonecutters'? "Who keeps the metric system down, we do we do".

[@billquillin1952]

Thank you, Sir! Fascinating presentation! I always wondered how they work !! Keep up the good work!

[@kennethbell7318]

Thanks Kieth. I never knew how the chucks came apart. At many years ago I did work for SO manufacturing in Solon Ohio in the office. Many thanks & God Bless you

[@henryostman5740]

As a guy who just admires the skills and broad knowledge that a skilled machines must possess I really appreciate your videos. I love these old machines, I remember seeing them in factories when I was young and in the ship's engine room (I was a deck officer), I am distressed that they are no longer made here. I would love to hear some explineation on just how those scrolls were machined and what tooling was used.

[@tinker5291]

Great video! The chucks all came out looking good and very serviceable. Thanx for the tutorial.

[@justincomisk]

I've always wondered how those worked mechanically. So simple!

[@victorreid2816]

Keith I truly appreciate you showing your whoopsie dasiy moments. I learn from it and don't feel alone ☺

[@jstephenallington8431]

Just a quick comment if I may, I was taught that a "Witness Mark" was simply any remnant of the tooling marks on a machined surface left behind intentionally. They were used as an example of how much (or really how little) metal was removed in the final processing of that surface. Match marks on the other hand, were marks put on the visible surfaces to show how two different mating parts were originally assembled. In part just to make certain that they went back together in the correct orientation to each other.

[@johnhutsenpillerjr1785]

I love it !!! Great Chuck's AND great work. The new stuff isn't generally made out of as good a steel as those older Chuck's A LEBLOND !!!! RAN ONE AT THE NEWPORT NEWS SHIPYARD FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS. MINE HAD A DIGITAL READOUT UPGRADE. VERY GOOD ENGINE LATHE. ALL THE BEST SIR.

[@jstephenallington8431]

I ran a LeBlond at NNS & DDCo as well! Could it have been the same lathe? They did have serveral of them, including (two) very ancient CNC versions.

[@EVILDR235]

You are up early. I have not even gone to bed yet. In Washington State, retired and playing in the garage. Thank's in advance.

[@SailingYachtDreamcatcher]

Sheer expertise and mastery of your trade! Brilliant idea using a hardened Allen key to punch on the precision scroll!

[@wadesmith9483]

Shut up

[@LAsparkTVWireTestLimited]

brilliant video, thanks so much... just done the same job myself but wish I'd had evapo rust, I had to use elbow grease which is not good on chucks and stuff. Such style you have.

[@davidmotoman4956]

Nothing better than a Good Clean up and service Keith. Nice finished result on all three Chucks mate :)

[@markkoons7488]

Very helpful. Thank you for putting together this video. It has to double the effort involved in any job.

[@mickdoherty8633]

Thanks Keith. Another great video. Really enjoyed learning how a 6 jaw chuck worked. 👍 Cheers Mick

[@waynephillips2777]

Good Job! I use the evapo rust on some antique planes and it does work really well.

[@rodwright225]

Another great video , always informative , reminders are always good , and new tools to me 😎👍👍

[@phuturephunk]

I learned how to disassemble and clean three different types of lathe chucks today. I'm a network technician and a programmer. This was more fascinating than anything I've done in a month. I chose the wrong career. XD

[@chrischambers330]

Hey Keith for future reference those threaded holes in the backing plate are called jacking screws. Run into them a lot when working on things with machined fit. One word of caution be careful to turn them in small amounts and equally as you can damage the parts if you get it cocked in its bore.

[@notsofresh8563]

After watching the video again, when you greased the wear surfaces behind the scroll on the 3 jaw, i noticed the groove in between them ran all the way around, and there was a tapped hole in the groove. I think that little tapped hole on the front of the chuck is to screw in a grease fitting and grease the chuck. If it is, it should have a plug in it when not being greased.

[@oldman6495]

My JAW dropped when you taped on that scroll with that allen wrench. Don't you have a brass punch? Gun Bluing makes a nice protective finish. Never seize those bolts, allows you to tighten the bolts properly, and makes it easier to take apart.

[@Frankowillo]

Even gun blued steel will rust over time.

[@anaphrodisiacxyu]

You're right, it's not the best, but it's possible that the sides on the scroll are the more important mating surface, not the face of the scroll. I wouldn't go crazy with trying to tap it out though.

[@codprawn]

Taped or tapped? Two very different meanings

[@oldman6495]

@@codprawn Eeny Meeny Miny Moe or I can google it to find out. OK I choose tapped or is it chose lol Thanks

[@codprawn]

@@oldman6495 Depends on the tense!

[@ianide2480]

"Jack Screws" (is what they're called) for separating the 3 jaw chuck

[@websitesthatneedanem]

Best video for ages!

[@aarongarney2118]

Thanks for another video, looking forward to how they do on the machine. I should give the same treatment to my chucks.

[@guitfidle]

This is a great video, thank you for sharing. I got a used lathe a while ago, and the 4 jaw chuck is about as worn as the 6 jaw on yours. I also have a 3 jaw scroll style for my wood lathe- it's pretty new still, but I may need to take it apart some day.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

Great share Keith , They sure look great after the clean up man .. Thumbs up !!

[@FreedomFactory3D]

Thanks for this video, I was having a problem taking apart my 3 jaw, 8" Bison, and it's built the same way as your 3 jaw Rohm chuck.

[@bcbloc02]

I like to use powdered graphite to lube the guts of my chucks so the chips and cast iron dust don't like to stick as well. Those chucks really cleaned up nice! Great to have all the work holding options on that lathe. Try fluid film for your anti corrosion spray, works great and won't bother your skin.

[@TomofAllTrades]

I learned a lot from your video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@ronwhittaker6317]

thank you if for no other reason i get to see them come apart and go back together that was helpful if i ever get started

[@joeestes8114]

Awesome video! I learned alot, I didn't know how those worked.

[@robertpontius5269]

Just a simple suggestion; I did the same job on a chuck for my lathe. I didn't have evapo-rust (great product) but a machinist told me white vinegar would remove the rust. It worked great!!! for a fraction of the cost.

[@johnmav8309]

I learn a lot! Thank you!

[@Retroweld]

Those cleaned up really nice. Are you going to the CNC NYC open house in May?

[@xx1590]

Nice informative lesson on the chucks,

[@rejracer]

Evapo rust works much much faster when heated. A large stainless pot and a campstove work wonders. Heat to about 180*. What it normally does in 12hrs it will do in less than an hour when hot.

[@bobbystanley8580]

rejracer good to know. Thanks

[@antigen4]

as does hydrochloric acid

[@davidkruger6379]

The WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement. The 40 was the 40th attempt at making the product. I remember when it made its debut in the San Diego newspaper 'way back when' and have used it since. Old Sailor Dave

[@1555yodude]

Awesome to see, first time i'v seen inside a chuck before.

[@Moonboot1]

THX for this practical vid.I also have some of this German RÖHM chucks.Stephan

[@omahas9000]

Thanks! Enjoyed and learned. Like your Eagle #66 oiler, too!

[@frankmuller5649]

Hey Keith, nice video like always! You should be happy with the two "Röhm" chucks... they are one manufacturer of premium chucks of all kinds in Germany and are around since 1909. I guess they know what they are doing and I'm interested what your setup and test will tell you (runout etc.). Have fun with your new toys. ;)

[@snoozinglion8596]

Nice collection of chucks Keith Nice cleanup Good job ;)

[@johnkinnane547]

G’day Keith and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 I found that very interesting love the shop regards John

[@rtkville]

Nice Keith, looks like you have nice lathe and chucks in good condition, I wish it were mine! Thank you again!

[@VeradonaRestoration]

Good job !

[@timbutler5690]

I am impressed with your work I learned a lot from you

[@ritamoore3940]

Very enjoyable viewing, Keith

[@charlescompton4495]

Use Dove detergent to help get the grease and oil off the stuff. Flash rust may happen. Well, you end up with two like new and one serviceable chucks. Thanks for sharing the demonstration, very interesting, Greg.

[@medhist2006]

What do you use in your parts washing tank Keith? great looking work:)

[@Godshole]

Educational, entertaining and evaporust. What more could a fella want with his morning cuppa :)

[@GermanToolReviews]

Very nice German-made Rohm chucks you have there for the first two you did, very expensive stuff which is why you only typically see those on high-end lathes. If you want some sticker shock look up the price of a new Rohm lathe chuck on MSC.

[@coreyb4073]

a little tip for those tight slip fits, if you throw the inner part in the freezer for a little bit, it will open the clearances a couple tenths and parts drop tofether nicely. i do dissasemble/clean on all my chucks when they come of to load collet noses. i had a tech twist a plunger in a power chuck and i spent 2 hours stoning the burr he created. i used the same trick rebuilding an 8000 rpm lathe spindle with boiling the bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner(in a bag)

[@Welder6131]

picked up a d1-6 for my monarch and im having troubles with the runout. im getting .007" Tir and ive checked timing and jaw placement....all correct. Could the bolt on jaws be worn that bad? not sure what else to check as this is my first d1-6 chuck.

[@railfan439]

Keith: Glad those shop rags came in handy. Another batch is coming your way, should be there Monday. You might look into a product called Dri Slide. It's molybdenum disulphide in an alcohol vehicle. Not good for rust displacement, but a great dry lube. Jon

[@dixonqwerty]

I love your restoration videos mr Rucker. I know you don't fancy them as much as I do, but I hope you will do a series of them anyway. :) The chucks looks great.

[@byrnejr]

Thanks for sharing ! Nice video

[@aserta]

I did the same mistake with my chuck. And funny thing is i had watched a chuck disassembly a few hours earlier. I think i chicken scratched my head for half an hour before i remembered the thing-a-majigs have to come out as well. :)) Nice one, there's no better feeling than working with a clean, crisp chuck. Even if it's a bit older, it's the sentiment that counts.

[@aserta]

First time i've seen a sleeved chuck...i wonder if that's factory. Well, not in that fashion, i know someone who has a chuck that allows you to sleeve the back end for collets.

[@assessor1276]

Very interesting Keith. That six-jaw is an impressive looking piece of tooling.

[@lancesurgeon7614]

WD stands for water displacement developed in 1940 for drying out distributors in military vehicles. It has varnish in it so after multiple applications the object will get a red tint. I used to work in a gun shop and customer would bring in a red colored semiauto rifle complaining it had stopped working. A soak in the ultrasonic cleaner and some customer education took care of the problem.

[@xenonram]

The "40" doesn't have anything to do with 1940. It is the 40th formulation. It was developed in the 1950s.

[@stargazer7644]

The manufacturer says you're full of shit. www.wd40.com/history/

[@spnynorman5519]

What a difference cleaning makes. I need to do mine, too.

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing.

[@mathuetax]

I like the lighting in the last few videos. I'm guessing you have the roll up door open and the reflected sunlight is doing a nice job as a fill. (It could be you've been doing this for as long as you've been doing videos in the new shop I may not have taken notice. As a videographer I appreciate when people try to utilise/boost natural light sources. And yes, I'm watching this at 4am my time, I can't sleep.)

[@rogerlaurel2363]

Why did you not oil the jaw ways like you did on the 4 & 3 jaw chuck when you assembled it? Oversight? Specific reason?

[@74KU]

Pull apart, de-rust and reassemble. Sounds easy when you say it.. then the work :D nice job. Only thing I would suggest is fitting the chuck to the lathe and getting it all run in true there when you put the body back together. Sure it will be out when you remove the chuck and reinstall it, but at least you are pretty close and should only have to do a little work next time.

[@markl2761]

Hi keith. Shotly after I got my Monarch lathe I was trying to dial in the run out on my three jaw chuck . My model L is a threaded shaft and the chuck screws on. It has the same kind of set up as yours where the jaws bolt on to the peice that rides on the scroll. It made a huge difference which jaw went on to each of those peices. I did notice that someone before me made an almost unnoticeable number on each one and they were in the wrong place. Once I moved them to coincide with the correct jaw it ran within .0001. Just a thought as you put yours on you might check and see if it makes a difference where they go on your lathe. But great video. Thanks because most every video you and some others do are a great help to me.

[@loftsatsympaticodotc]

We too have a Monarch 16in. like Keiths. BTW- 2-part top jaws are on many lathes for sale here at Machineco in Montreal. Thus you can reverse jaws instead of having a complete alternate set for Inside-Outside The lower jaw MUST be numbered in order to fit the scroll in order. Anyone interested? We're Toll free 1-888-459-4025 for all questions about lathes etc.

[@MaturePatriot]

Back in the '70s when we ran into metric Allen heads in the body shop, I would use aluminum foil to shim my closest SAE to fit the Allen heads. It always worked. Keith you had a little on your upper lip there at the end. LOL Been looking at several different scroll chuck refurbs. Some use heavy machine oil, some use grease, on the gear drive. I guess there is no hard and fast rule on it.

[@thegrantclan]

Thoroughly enjoyed 🔩

[@michaelkenefick]

Could you strain the evoporust with a coffee or restaurant oil filter?

[@hinz1]

Use something softer than steel (you allen wrench) to punch parts apart. It's bad practice and you get small dents if the punched part happens to be cast iron ;-)

[@muh1h1]

no grease on the gear side?

[@mfletch392]

I've striped and cleaned some chucks its surprising the different construction on some

[@erichope1103]

Good vids and nice cleanup, evaporust rules but, I have the same reaction as a few others when it comes to knocking the scroll out with the alan..... Brass brass and brass !!!! There are some that use grease some use oil..... Grease is never a good deal on a chuck :)

[@janvisser2223]

Congratulations with your German Rohm chuck, they are top quality.

[@v.nicolet9856]

Dear Keith, very nice video, to cleen the big cluch in external: VD40 and scotchbrite green soft turning tool start slow and perfect. Best regards from Switzerland,

[@oldfister7460]

I have found that a little bit of orange glow citrus furniture polish and a red 3m scratch bright helps with the stains on a chuck. I've cleaned up a 3 jaw chuck that I just inherited from my brother. See if it will work for you.

[@stancloyd]

I ordered Evap-o-Rust today. I've got a six-jaw I'll have to clean after grinding and a three jaw apart now going through what we see in this video.

[@edtompkins865]

What model of LeBlond do you have? I have a 15" Dual Drive, ca. 1958/59.

[@famcadjr]

If you forget and it evaporates you can just add water. The chemical in the evaporust is not subject to evaporation. What out with some drills and hex keys. The evaporust work by pulling the 02 out of the rush and leaving the iron in the bottom of the pan. It does the same thing with Black oxide. If you reuse product you can dye a part with the black oxide from a previous project

[@richardgrant4366]

The WD in WD-40 actually means water displacement. It was developed for use in rocket fuel tanks.

[@dessilverson161]

Lovely job Keith. I haven't seen a six jaw chuck before, let alone used one. I must agree with someone else's comment, a brass drift would have been a better choice to get the ring gear out. All primed and ready to go. Cant beat a good drop of lube in the moving bits. Des.

[@ibkoool1]

Great job as always Keith, my only concerns are, grease is probably not the best method of lubricating the inner workings of a chuck, because any chips that find's they way in there, will have a tendency to stick to the grease. Oil would be a more appropriate lube for that application. Also, you need to lubricate all moving surfaces, you lubricated the flat surface of the crown wheel and not the center that rotates around that hub, you could be a little more liberal with the oil, just wipe off the excess at the end.

[@flatblack39]

I was going to ask about using grease.

[@ericwolf5874]

Heck, any "excess" oil will be taken care of the first time you turn on the lathe. ;-)

[@sjwsbetaskiller6218]

Grease is FINE. Careless use of compressed air and grinding/polishing on the lathe is a main problem.

[@jonka1]

ibkoool1 This is sadly very typical of Keith's work, particularly when lubricating parts during assembly. He likes to portray himself as a careful and experienced engineer and yet can't actually see the shortcomings of his own work. Similar examples of mistakes litter his videos.

[@jonka1]

I watch them because I enjoy the sort of machinery Keith works on. I have spent most of my career repairing antique machines and industrial installations and much of my work was putting right poor or even bad workmanship by previous people who had all the right spanners but little grasp of what they were actually doing. Keith seems to be somewhere on that spectrum in that he more or less knows what to do but cannot portray himself as truly competent to be an instructor and an example to those who wish to learn. In the meantime those chuck components are still wearing out!

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

The reason the six jaw chuck is more tired is that it is that it can be “bucked” (adjust center). It can also hold onto tubing with less distortion. They are typically less robust than a three jaw.

[@Boultonful]

hi Keith, regards the six jaw chuck, did you get the other set of jaws with it ? there are usually two sets inner and outer. as I expect you know, would be a shame if you only have the one set, keep up the good work, JB UK

[@russellforrest1730]

Nice videos, thanks. You were talking about the numbering of the jaws matching the slots. Is this because the chuck is balanced like a car wheel? Any slight difference in mass of each jaw might unbalance the chuck if placed incorrectly?

[@stargazer7644]

No, it's because the scroll is in a different position at each jaw location, so each jaw is cut differently so they meet up at the middle. Otherwise the first one you put in would be the first one to the center. Each successive jaw starts a little deeper as you go around the numbers.

[@corndog2835]

could you make a new gear for the chuck that is worn if it was necessary?

[@aahl1680]

I'm glad he made it till the end! Keith, take a deap breath and relax.... :-)

[@ElectraFlarefire]

Workshop sinks.. Well worth any extra plumbing to keep others who live in the same house happy. Greasy parts in the laundry/kitchen/bathroom sinks are nearly universally frowned apon. :) One can earn many points for coming into the house with clean hands after working in the shop.

[@jaxxbrat2634]

why no grease on rack/pinion?

[@Rocky1234732]

Thanks for the video very nice.

[@craigwalker3256]

thanks Keith!!!!

[@martineastburn3679]

I was taught to tighten all scroll points with the T wrench to balance the strain on the rack inside and not all pressure on one spot.

[@steeltree-fabricatingandcu3796]

My father worked at leblond lathe He left there and went to JHday mixer or later was day mixer He was a top notch machinist For over 40 years

[@markmanwaring3823]

I hear you puffing as you go ,you and I both need to loose some weight lol .top vid, good stuff I love tools as you do sir

[@johnswimcat]

Excellent video. Now I know how to put my 3 jaw back together. Would it be worth having a new drive gear for the 6 jaw made?

[@genial6589]

This is a good one! Congratulatin

[@cmonster6]

That 6 jaw is a work of art,good job on cleaning it up.wonder what you could use to prevent further rusting while stored.?