Resurrecting my 1951 Dodge Power Wagon - Restoration Part 8

BIG CHANGES: We are now one step closer to driving down the road. New brakes, bed, tires and much more. I also take the head and manifolds off to discover and start fixing some big issues with the Flathead 6.
#dodgepowerwagon #barnfind #flathead6

[@DIYSCOTT]

Hi Everyone! Would love to hear any ideas you guys have for the project or any tips you have for me. If you want to see more videos like this please make sure to SUBSCRIBE!!! :)

[@williamturner2617]

Its me again ,I like Fel pro head gaskets (they don't have to be retorqued). Also if the budget allows I would install a new pilot bearing (less than 15 dollars) throw out bearing and clutch disc. Sometimes the presure plate can be reused if it passes inspection. Finger height equal ,no (blue) hotspots ,springs ok . Its ok to sand with 80 grit s. p. To remove glazed surface/rust on presure plate and flywheel to save a few dollars. If the pilot bearing is bronze or cintored iron be sure to "sweat" the new pilot bearing.Bill

[@williamturner2617]

Also wet paper and drift can be used hydrolicly press the pilot bearing from the end of the crank shaft if you don't have access to a puller this is a cool tip znd requires zero expertise to pull off.

[@DIYSCOTT]

@@williamturner2617 I'll look into all of this. Thanks for the tips!

[@williamturner2617]

Hello I am a mechanic with a lot of experiance with boat motors . The reason the valves are staying up is there is some corrosion (rust) inside the iron valve guide. The valve is made out of a better material than the block and will have a lot less corrosion . You are headed in the right direction. When you start the engine the valve and valve stem will expand o lot faster than the valve guide (block) but you don't have to worry about doing any damage because this is not a interferance motor. If i were doing this job i would mix a little 2 stroke oil in with the gas to lubricate the valve guides so they don't stick when the valve stem expands from heat. Also modern motor oil (crankcase) has no zinc this engine needs zinc to run for extended periods of time. Zinc was removed from oil because it harms catalytic converters on modern emission controlled engines. If you can try to leave the carburetor in an upright position when you remove it from the engine. Because the sediment at the bottom of the bowl gets stirred up when its turned on its side and some of this can make its way into the main jets causing you to have to clean the carb. P.S. purchase a zinc oil additive and use it after the oil is changed it will greatly extend the life of the camshaft/lifters.Bill.

[@DIYSCOTT]

Good to know on the Zinc I will definitely look into that further. The carburetor is rebuilt (new) so there probably isn't much sediment but thanks for the tip! I am getting the engine machined now too. Thanks for the help!

[@JDawghasaTruck]

Good catch on the bed!

[@dacei8296]

Those threads still perform well 👌 keep goin bro!

[@bosskurrshark4687]

Lovin' this video! Love the power wagon.... Good job at making vids!

[@DIYSCOTT]

Thanks! Glad you like it!! It's a really fun project

[@jorgezarzavilla6080]

muy muy bien

[@DIYSCOTT]

Thanks!

[@larrydunlop378]

It wouldnt hurt to try to rotate the valve when it is stuck open. You at least know that one valve is not stuck stuck as you can move it. So, I would fire it up with the one bad valve and the heat of it running with the other 5 cyls will open the guide clearence and the valve should then work on its own. They are a great running engine!

[@JDawghasaTruck]

Good job on the valves! I would turn the engine over so the valve is open. Then use sand paper on the seats and valve. That should be enough to get it running. Closely inspect the exhaust seats, make sure the surface is a clean circle. There could be a crack or void in which case you probably will get it to run but the seat will have to be reground or replaced. Don’t get frustrated but you might have to revisit those valves later. I got mine running on all six at first, went back a few weeks later and it started and ran but only ran on 5. The number 1 exhaust valve had stuck again, see my “bring it home” video. Somebody had done some hinky mechanic work on it years back so I decided to replace all the guides and some seats and valves. You’re learning some great stuff!

[@DIYSCOTT]

Yeah I kinda wish I just did the sand paper and gave it one more shot. I ended up taking all the valves out (with the wrong type of spring compressor) and was planning on lapping them. Not having the right tool really did frustrate me hahaha. Anyways I kinda ran out of time because I had to go back to school. The valves looked pretty good and the seats not too bad. The guides seemed nice and snug. So that made me conclude that bad compression rings on the pistons is why we were getting air coming out of the dip stick when the mechanic did the leak down (force air into the engine) test. So my dad really wants to have the engine pulled and rebuilt and we found a pretty reasonable place who have done flatheads before. I know it is more money upfront but he wants to do it and I think since I truly do want to keep this truck for a long time it's the best way to preserve the engine and be able to keep the flathead. I have one more video that just shows me taking out the valves and I'll probably post that on Friday

[@DIYSCOTT]

And I am learning so much and I love it. Such a privilege to work on a piece of history and spend good time with my dad. Practicing a lost art!

[@justincampese3446]

Lapping compound!

[@DIYSCOTT]

How difficult is it to take out the valves and put them back in after if I lapped them?

[@SchraderBoyzTV]

Keep these coming we are working on a 52' PW project & are in about the same stage as you are!

[@DIYSCOTT]

Nice! I'm working on rebuilding the engine and transmission now so the next video should be it driving which is gonna be awesome. Good luck on yours!!

[@SchraderBoyzTV]

@@DIYSCOTT we are headed to the local junk yard we heard might have parts on Sunday afternoon... I'll keep an eye on your videos to see what else I need to look at on ours. I think your body is a little better, we are in Michigan so get a lot of salt.

[@DIYSCOTT]

@@SchraderBoyzTV Yeah mine was originally a plow truck on a ranch in the Rocky Mountains in Colorado so it also has some pretty bad rust on the back bottom corners of the cab and in the middle of the bottom of the cab in the back

[@SchraderBoyzTV]

@@DIYSCOTT ours was a plow truck for city of South Bend Indiana so were in the same boat

[@Murphyslawfarm]

G'day just found your channel and subbed mate

[@DIYSCOTT]

Glad you liked it. Thanks for subscribing! :)

[@haydenlake7956]

Keep up the videos. Great job. I have a 1947 WDX that is in a little better shape have gone through the brakes, axle seals, throwout bearing, etc but has a long way to go. Now im inspired to dig back in

[@DIYSCOTT]

That's awesome. I can't wait to get mine good enough to just drive it around town and to the beach. Then like you said keep going through it piece by piece. Good luck with your project!

[@lunchbox2784]

Shouldn’t be too hard to pull the valves. Rent a valve compressor. Compress the spring, pull out the retainers, release the compressor, and the valve should slide out. Keep each lapped valve with its respected location after lapping, don’t mix and match. Once lapped, they have to stay together with their seats. Check the valve lash after lapping with feeler/gap gauges. Oh, and for the hand brake, pull on the handle just before you press the thumb button. This relieves the tension on the locking tooth and should be easier to press the button.

[@DIYSCOTT]

Thank you so much this is really helpful. I will definitely look into doing this. Also thanks for the tip on the hand brake trying to push that button down was destroying my hand lol. Would something like this work to compress the springs? www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Compressor-Compression-Motorcycle-Equipment/dp/B07DC1SJ5R/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=valve+spring+compressor&qid=1609833891&sr=8-5

[@lunchbox2784]

@@DIYSCOTT I don’t know if that would work, maybe. It needs to be long enough to reach from the top of the cylinder head to the bottom of the spring. Most of the ones I’ve seen are the c-clamp version like you posted, but they have a fork-style end. I’m not familiar with that multi-piece type. I’m sure KZbin has many videos covering this to get you familiar with the process. The idea of valve spring compression is fairly straight forward and surprisingly easy on a flathead motor, so long as you have good access to the springs.

[@DIYSCOTT]

@@lunchbox2784 Okay makes sense thanks!

[@Ron36415]

Scott, that truck was probably Bell telephone. They were the same color green, had a utility body on the back and the two heavy brackets that come up under your front fenders are for a gin pole or crane. used to set telephone poles. the stuck valves are common on anything that has been sitting. While you have the head off you may consider having it shaved, not un common for them to warp, my m37 went through several head gaskets until I had the head done, if you shave it around sixty thousandths it 'll boost the compression, gives you another 10 or so horsepower.

[@DIYSCOTT]

Ohhhhh. Oh my gosh...that makes sense. At first I thought those came stock but most power wagons don't have any support in the middle of the front fenders as far as I can tell. It probably did have a gin pole and those were the supports thank you for mentioning that. You think the color green is different than most PW's because of that? I don't know much history on it unfortunately (besides that it was a plow truck in Colorado for some period of time before it got parked/stopped working) so it's really interesting to me to try to uncover more about its past. The only thing is I haven't seen any evidence that there was ever a winch or PTO on it. (Not that I really know what I am looking for) but I don't think I have a PTO lever that would turn the winch on and off even. Because you would need a winch for the gin pole/crane right?! I will have to look further into that. I am getting the engine machined and rebuilding the whole thing to save myself the headache and to hopefully increase its capability like you said. Thanks for the comment I love trying to learn more about the history of my power wagon!

[@Ron36415]

@@DIYSCOTT The winch and pto are bolt ons easily removed the last one I saw was built by highway service company? not the normal braden winch dodge used either much bigger with capstans on either end . google phone company power wagon will most likely turn something up

[@DIYSCOTT]

@@Ron36415 Very interesting... Yeah since the bumper was taken off to become a snowplow that makes sense that the owner may of just taken it all off. Thanks for helping me learn more about the history!

[@DIYSCOTT]

@@Ron36415 Maybe one day someone will see one of these videos and by some chance know more about the history of my PW. An old photograph would be sooo cool. A guy named Kelly (two owners ago) saw one of the videos and reached out but he didn't know much history on it either because he owned it only like 3 years ago and was the guy who brought it to CA from Idaho saving it from being parted out by Legacy Classic Trucks.

[@davidmat2914]

Get a valve lap set and lap the valves

[@DIYSCOTT]

Thanks for the tip! I think I am just going to try it first. They seem to be seating okay-ish for now. If I have to start taking out the valves (which I don't really know how to do) then I probably will put in new ones and get the seats redone by a machine shop

[@danahilp7981]

Couldn't do this in a new car. Ah the good old day's.

[@DIYSCOTT]

I know right. I was wiring up some led light bars this weekend on a 2006 Volvo and it took me 20 minutes just to find the battery cause there were so many plastic covers in the way...turns out it was in the trunk hahaha

[@oliverroedel1111]

tae this valve off and use sand paper with oil, then put it back and turn with your hand.

[@DIYSCOTT]

I got it to stop sticking. I ductaped the hole on the side and let it soak in the penetrating oil overnight. Some taping and pushing down on it seemed to do the trick! Thanks for the tip though! Happy New Year!!

[@oliverroedel1111]

@@DIYSCOTT perfect. this old engines are gold! i have a mercedes om321 post war diesel engine. it runs and runs and runs....

[@flatboat67]

spring might be broke

[@saulsanroman3581]

Hey I have a Power wagon too

[@DIYSCOTT]

That's awesome what year?

[@saulsanroman3581]

@@DIYSCOTT 1964 m601

[@DIYSCOTT]

@@saulsanroman3581 That's sick!

[@saulsanroman3581]

@@DIYSCOTT thanks bro

[@robertbilderbck3492]

Turn the coil around,where the terminals face up, there's fluid in there,might need to change the valve seat-lifter,that's why the covers there.

[@DIYSCOTT]

Good to know one the coil. I just did that so the wires weren’t in the way as much. Is it bad for it to be upside down like that?

[@axomen1]

Polytron spray Do it

[@DIYSCOTT]

The Pb blaster stuff I used ended up working well I just really needed to let it soak. Thanks for the tip!

[@lukerobinson8843]

is that the truck of gta

[@DIYSCOTT]

Yes sir