Shall I Use 15A or 20A Receptacles on a 20A circuit per 2023 NEC 210.21(B) ?

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[@sjpropertyservices3987]

I am a DIYer and went to commercial only grade receptacles several years ago. After seeing the difference in quality the price difference made it an easy decision to go with commercial grade.

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent!

[@ianbutler1983]

Yes, especially if you can purchase them in quantity.

[@edbassett0545]

So dumb ? Sparky so how many 20 amp receptacles can u put on one 20 amp breaker in one room ?

[@garydudgeon]

Sparky, you are making good decisions. Kitchens are a likely area that may have a heavier load. Good explanation as usual.

[@SparkyChannel]

I agree. Thanks Gary!

[@James-bv4nu]

Very clear and informative! btw, the way I read the code, if you use a 20 amp outlet (with the T prong), then you must use dedicated 12 gauge wiring to that outlet. In other words, you cannot daisy chain 20 amp outlets.

[@surferdude642]

Not quite. If you have a 20 amp circuit (12AWG) you can use 20 amp duplex receptacles for the entire circuit. 15 amp receptacles are also ok. A dedicated circuit means that there is only one socket on the circuit to plug into. It must be a 20 amp single receptacle if it's a 20 amp circuit. A duplex receptacle is 2 sockets.

[@brianmcdermott2430]

Great notes . Thank you, Sparky.

[@SparkyChannel]

Very welcome. Thanks Brian!

[@timdyer7692]

Thanks, Bill! You provided some very helpful information - as always!

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Tim!

[@pjjp6341]

Thank you sparky! In charging my new generator it said use at least a 16A outport. Not knowing anything about that, this video taught me everything, I needed to know. Because of you! Thx!!

[@HamiltonMechanical]

So I teach a a local state run trade school, we had a new campus built in another location, and we had to go there the other day to help them wire up a trainer, and they were like hey, these receptacles were leftovers, you want em? They are all 15a 3 prong locking LOL. So I told my coworker, lets change all our receptacles to these, and all our power tools and extension cords to em. That'll keep the welding shop from running off with our stuff!!! LOL!

[@SparkyChannel]

LOL! Please say "Hi" to your students for me.

[@HamiltonMechanical]

@@SparkyChannel I will do good sir! thanks for all your helpful content! Some of these kids do better watching some videos of someone else doing it than to just read it in a book. They love your videos and we really appreciate everything you do!

[@RJ-ej1nr]

Hilarious! I love it!

[@vince6829]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@SparkyChannel]

My pleasure!

[@wingman8447]

Yes yes. 20amp comm spec receptacle for high use 20A areas. Kitchen, workshop, garages etc. Grab better. Last longer. Great video. Thank you.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Wingman!

[@kenbrown2808]

for those interested in further detail: duplex receptacles carry two ratings: a feed through rating and a face rating. the 15 amp receptacles he showed are a 15 amp face rating, but still have a 20 amp feed through rating. there are receptacles that only have a 15 amp feed through rating and those are not approved for use on a 20 amp circuit. personally, I'm completely comfortable using the residential grade receptacles for normal residential use. I installed them in my own house. where I would use a commercial grade receptacle would be if there was a location that was constantly having things plugged in and unplugged, or where there was a high amperage appliance that got used a lot. if you're only installing a few receptacles, the step up in price is negligible, so it's really a case of preference. but note that tamperproof receptacles ARE mandatory in residences or places where children will be (I.E. schools, daycares, etc)

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent comments! All current Levition receptacles are 20 amp pass-through according to Leviton. Older versions may not be.

[@kenbrown2808]

@@SparkyChannel interesting, they do seem to have discontinued the quickwire-only receptacles.

[@danediz]

are the eaton br15 rated for 20amp pass through.

[@maxheadroom8857]

@@danediz I looked at Eaton GFCIs for my detached garage, which is on a 20 amp circuit. The 15 amps are rated for 20 amp pass through. I purchased a 20 amp replacement Eaton GFCI to replace a legrand GFCI that wore out. The line wires go on the bottom lugs on an Eaton GFCI and the Legrand GFCI, opposite of the Leviton GFCIs which have the line lugs on top.

[@maxheadroom8857]

@@SparkyChannel my 1955 Leviton grounded 15 amp receptacle that I pulled from my bathroom to replace with a 20 amp GFCI was rated to pass through 20 amps. It was residential grade. My kitchen still has the old 1955 Leviton 15 amp grounded receptacle, in a box damaged by a roof leak in the late 1970s. I'm about to replace the damaged box and install a 20 amp GFCI in place. Since the breaker box has all the breakers, I will run a ground into my attic and share the ground with other currently ungrounded circuits. The box shares the ground with a back porch light, laundry receptacle in the next room, light switch boxes in the kitchen and the switch box in the laundry room.

[@aatonhernandez3561]

Thank you Sparky

[@SparkyChannel]

My pleasure.

[@tommycho9068]

Great video. Thanks.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Tommy!

[@glasshalffull2930]

My brother’s house in Florida had issues with the 20 amp GFCIs in the bathroom. I was impressed that the contractor had bothered to upgrade the circuits during a remodel. That is until I went to the panel to turn off the breaker and found it was a 15 amp breaker and the wire was 14 gauge also. 😬 Changed them out to 15 amp spec grade and only the first receptacle is now a GFCI.

[@SparkyChannel]

Great job! Excellent troubleshooting and repair.

[@glasshalffull2930]

@@SparkyChannel Thank you for all you have taught us!

[@SparkyChannel]

@@glasshalffull2930 My pleasure!

[@Dave-nm3xc]

Good thing you caught it. 👍👍

[@glasshalffull2930]

@@Dave-nm3xc All thanks to Sparky! My brother is single and bald and so he hadn’t plugged anything into the bathroom receptacles in years. No telling how long they’d been tripped, which was probably a good thing. Of course the first GFCI on the circuit was hidden in the garage under a shelf and behind a bunch of boxes. He had no idea it was even there.

[@edgarherrera1288]

Great clarification Mr. Bill! Memphis, Tennessee say hi 👋🏻 to you! God bless you!

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks! Cheers from San Diego!

[@GoodDay-rs5mb]

Thank you.

[@CLEVDALE1]

I hope you have apprentices with you as you are the kind of teacher that is needed to keep the field growing and moving in the right direction, you explain with good clarity. Also you are not saying I know this and listen you are pulling from the code and showing exactly why it is what it is. I have watched many of your videos and I am happy to see you are getting better and better at the teaching.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much! I do my best to help out apprentices.

[@rjlinnovations1516]

Nice video tutorials. Greetings from your supporters

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much!

[@rjlinnovations1516]

@@SparkyChannel you’re welcome 🙏

[@hitechfl]

Great video

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@cryangallegos]

This is great content. I had no idea that you could put 15a duplexes on a 20a circuit. We've got some "experts" where I work claiming that you can't do that, however the hilarious part is that we actually *are* using 20a receptacles on a circuit lol

[@SparkyChannel]

Glad to help!

[@tedmcdonald3377]

Happy April fools Day Bill 😎🛠️😎🛠️😎

[@SparkyChannel]

Same to you Ted!

[@mikemunyan3674]

That was very good thanks for the tip😂

[@SparkyChannel]

No problem, thanks Mike!

[@Comm0ut]

Thanks for posting the references! NEC being paid for by our tax dollars should not have paywalled downloads. If that issue gets air time on KZbin perhaps that will change, but currently it's absurd for a public law CRITICAL TO SAFETY to have its dissemination so restricted. (Reading it online without a search function is a deliberately awkward imposition.)

[@SparkyChannel]

My pleasure, thanks!

[@richardmasi2725]

There is free access to NFPA 70 and Google any keyword and the code comes up.

[@RJ-ej1nr]

On resi vs commercial grade, nearby price per rcpt of big box store Eaton when bought in units of 10 (15A only as 20A resi isn't much of a thing) - resi $.80, comm $2.15, TR comm, $4.00. For a homeowner, it's a obvious choice once you know it exists. For a contractor, when resi is demanded, you know the customer's price/quality sensitivity now and go in with your eyes open, especially if your ethos is to solid quality work at a fair but appropriately higher cost.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@21trips]

Gotta love Catalina island!

[@SparkyChannel]

What a beautiful place!

[@21trips]

@@SparkyChannel we like Catalina! Have you seen the new Klein circuit analyzer that tests voltage drop?

[@arnozhang7001]

First sf all ,it depends on the thickness of the incoming wire of the socket. The maximum load of 4 square millimeter copper wire is 8KW. A=KW/110V, Add up the power of all the electrical appliancesthat will be used on this socket , and use the previous formula to calculate. you can get the maximum ampere usage of your socket, and multiply the mumber youcalculated by 1.5 times, which is the safe current you neeed to buy amperrage.

[@nominalvelocity]

Makes sense, you'd want heavy duty appliances on their own circuit; A/C units, refrigerators and clothes washers can have pretty high peak amperages when the motor starts. Some dishwashers have pretty high draw. Outside of bigger appliances, though, I don't see a benefit to using the 120v 20A outlets. I can't think of a single one I've seen or used outside of a garage (air compressor or small welder) in all of my years.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@maxheadroom8857]

It's actually smarter to use a receptacle rated the same as the wiring and breaker. If the wiring is 12 gauge, it is better to install a spec grade duplex receptacle rated at 20 amps whenever possible. In some cases, it becomes impossible on a 20 amp circuit to install a 20 amp receptacle if it's a combination receptacle. One example is a combination Pull Chain light receptacle with a grounded outlet. I found out under code that it qualifies as a "duplex" receptacle, since the receptacle is wired as a dual purpose receptacle. I have 3 combination pull chain receptacles with grounded outlets downstream of my 20 AMP GFCI duplex in my detached garage, along with a switched light fixture on the garage circuit. There is no 20 amp combination pull chain/outlet fixture sold anywhere.

[@jolyonwelsh9834]

Some people like to use commercial grade appliances at home. Some of which have NEMA 5-20 plugs on them.

[@SparkyChannel]

That's an excellent point, thanks! For other viewers: The 5-20R T-Slot receptacle allows you to plug in either a 5-20P or a 5-15P plug, allowing greater flexibility. In modern home installations, 5-20R T-Slot receptacles are often used when 20A circuits are installed due to flexibility of being downward compatible with the 5-15P.

[@peterbassett1176]

Thank you, Bill, for an informative video. Please clarify when we remove the bridge between the terminals in a receptacle. Thanks

[@SparkyChannel]

Good morning Peter! I made you a video to answer your question: What is This Tab and When Do We Break it?: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYHUhWdmaZKqoMU

[@peterbassett1176]

Thank you, Bill. @@SparkyChannel

[@Eddy63]

Good info as usual Bill ... Have you seen or used the outlets and switches with the WAGO type levers to connect the wires to ? No tools required but I'm not getting rid of all my electrical tools just yet You can do a vid on them ... Thx my friend ...

[@SparkyChannel]

I have heard of them but haven't got my hands on them. I'll have to check them out. Thanks Eddy, have a great Saturday! I'm getting ready to watch the SDSU Aztecs play in the final 4 of the NCAA basketball tourney.

[@jefferylebowski7355]

@@SparkyChannel In particular the Leviton Edge brand (seem to be exclusive to Home Depot). I normally use the Leviton "preferred" with the full metal strap, it will be interesting to see how these compare (might have to cut one open).

[@michaelwright1602]

I use the better Leviton 15 amp outlets and they are identical to the 20 amp less the extra slot on the front. I just installed one of these, as you have shown in the video. Take those two outlets apart, and they are identical inside. That first outlet, that is a contractor grade outlet, which are junk. Know your outlets folks.

[@SparkyChannel]

Isn't it interesting that they sell the residential grade receptacles as "contractor grade". Electrical contractors won't usually touch them, but some general contractors love them because it saves a couple of bucks on each receptacle. Yes, know your receptacles!

[@michaelwright1602]

@@SparkyChannel And when you are in the hardware or big box, open the box and make sure you are getting what you are buying. Many times they take the screws out, or swap outlets or switches. They have gotten me, once. Now I open every box to inspect.

[@RJ-ej1nr]

On 15A vs 20A, the default/obvious choice is match the receptacle to the circuit amperage. Reasons to put 15A rcpt on 20A circuit could be matching an existing look, some people/businesses feel the 20A ones look too industrial so don't like that styling, or saving a small amount of cost. An actual NEMA 5-20 plugged device is extremely rare in residential settings, though. I've seen on higher end houses now, many like having the 20A rcpt throughout feeling it shows that it was built well / heavy duty.

[@SparkyChannel]

Good points, thanks!

[@bygrace7342]

Thank you very much for your information. it helps me so much.

[@SparkyChannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ralphdoid]

I prefer using commercial grade receptacles as well but don't necessarily see the need for 20A receptacles throughout the house. However, it' s really tough to find Decora style commercial grade 15A receptacles that are tamper resistant as code dictates for living spaces.

[@bahbee5659]

Great video “subscribed today👍” At 8:15-8:20, what is the purpose of the brass attached to the steel?

[@lukeabeck166]

It holds the screw

[@SparkyChannel]

Welcome to Sparky Chanel! That brass piece is called a self-grounding clip. I'll have a full video on it tomorrow.

[@user-pn3hj1fn9h]

The breaker size are only as good as the wire size. If 14 gauge wire is being used. It doesn't do any good to put in 20 amp receptacles and 20 amp breakers, unless you don't care about your house burning down.

[@xtorres8919]

So I had this question for so long ! So it doesn’t matter which on you place , because unless you know there will be using an appliance that will require a 20amp receptacle.placing a 15 amp receptacle is okay as well just depends on the preference Thank you sir much appreciate it

[@michaelwright1602]

It is very rare that you would ever "need" a real 20 amp recpticle in say a kitchen. And yes, their are commercial appliances that will sometimes require one. But, that is rare. Most folks use the better quality outlets like he showed, with the metal back strap, that is what I use. And I use the 15 amp on the 20 amp circuits. Internally, those two quality back strapped Leviton outlets are identical inside. The only difference between the two is the extra slot on the 20 amp outlet. Why pay more for an outlet that you may never use?

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, that's correct.

[@michaelwright1602]

@@SparkyChannel Thank you for the timely and informative content sir!

[@AgentOrange96]

I was going to use the TDR20-W in my house since I have 20A circuits. My reasoning for instead going for the TDR15-W (which was actually a few cents more expensive for some reason) instead was that I realized that I'm very unlikely to have only one device plugged into a circuit at any given time. Since having even one 20A load would max out the circuit, I'd rather disallow that from happening. Heck, even my laser printer dims my lights. (Maybe that's partially due to low-grade outlets adding excess resistance. I guess I'll find out.) This still boils down to personal preference, but there's a perspective on why one may choose not to use the 20A variant.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Gobbledegook. Using 15amp receptacles already restricts usage on the 20amp circuit since you cannot plug 20amp devices into a 15amp receptacle.

[@johncasor9698]

Another Great Video... ,,,a lot of bad quality now. i have a 1950 house and the 1950 wall receptacles are still here and working great and not loose plugs hanging they are still tight Haha... but i have another house i own and it also is a 1950 house and someone replace the 15 amp wall receptacle at one time and i did 2 months ago replace it because plug were getting loose and had a bed connection... it was a newer type of receptacle...

[@SparkyChannel]

Perfect example! A few extra bucks to buy the commercial spec receptacles and all those problems will be avoided. Thanks John!

[@surferdude642]

By "newer type receptacle" do you mean a 3-prong? If so, it's not permitted to change from a 2-prong to a 3-prong unless a ground wire exists, and/or a metal conduit is used, and they are bonded in the main electrical panel. A metal box must be previously grounded by an equipment grounding conductor. A GFCI receptacle, even without a ground wire and an ungrounded metal box is a code compliant option.

[@aaron74]

I'm surprised they chose to use the term "single receptacle" instead of "simplex receptacle", because the latter term is a better comparison to the much more commonly understood "duplex receptacle" (which everyone just calls "a receptacle" anyway). Oh well. So it's okay to have just one 15-amp duplex receptacle on a 20 amp circuit because it's duplex and not simplex (single).

[@SparkyChannel]

Good points, thanks.

[@irafair3015]

I find it interesting that they used single instead of simplex in the nec code book .

[@aaron74]

@@irafair3015 "Simplex" must be sort of arcane. It's used in telecom to denote a lack redundancy in a fiber ring. Simplex mode versus duplex mode.

[@christopherdekonstrukt444]

I'll have to change my 20A duplex GFCI for a 15A one.

[@AimingWanderously]

This might be a stupid question but hey we all ask them when we're learning, and I'm learning...does it matter whether the line comes in the top or bottom terminals, and which one the load goes out, on an outlet? I know with GFIs it does and they're labeled, so I assume not or regular outlets would be labeled accordingly as well. If not, do electricians use any sort of rule of thumb for top vs bottom, or is it all just how you feel like connecting them?

[@chrisharper2658]

When comparing the higher quality 15 & 20 amp rated outlets, both have the same size hot terminal so what is the point in differentiating between the two? Other than saying where a 20 amp outlet is found, you can be sure it is wired to a 20 circuit and as for 15 amp outlets, it could be either a 15 or 20 amp circuit. I think I answered my own question.

[@pontiacbob99]

This is a second video about 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp branch. I found your video interesting in that you are assuming most of the branch circuits are 20amp. Does this not cost more in wiring? There may be special applications where 20 amp(12 gauge) circuits are used everywhere. It seems to be playing with fire having 15 amp sockets on a 20 amp line. Pun intended. I jumped up and checked my circuit panel. I had mostly 15 amp breakers and 14 gauge wire on my lighting and appliance branches. Sorry this makes more sense and is more idiot resistant.

[@scotttribout1150]

Ok with this in mind per 2023 does a USB port count as a contact device?

[@dougbernitt5446]

Most kitchen appliances have 15 amp plugs which means the load will not exceed 12.5 amps or 80%. The 15A recepticles can handle 80% @12.5 Amps while 20 amp recepticles can handle 80% @16Amps. I still prefer installing 20 A recepticles for the kitchen and bathroom/utility circuits even though you're allowed to use 15 amp devices.

[@SparkyChannel]

I'm with you on that. Great logic IMO!

[@sapreaper]

My mwave draws 16.6 amps through a nema 5-15p fyi.

[@dougbernitt5446]

@@sapreaper It can still be on a 20amp recepticle even though it's slighty over 80%. It just needs to be on a single yoke and dedicated.

[@sapreaper]

@@dougbernitt5446 yes I know. I just thought your generic statement was a bit off in my case :-) Though you did say "most". My mwave was on a 20 amp kitchen circuit with 15 amp receptacles. This is how many "old" houses are. I also like Sparky channel but did not really get/hear why he recommended/uses 20amp. The chance of needing the 20a nema 5-20r, is nil in the U.S. at least for a kitchen that is lol. To each their own. For dedicated appliance outlets I use simplex/single 20a receptacles, and 12awg wire/20a cb, along with 12awg for ALL receptacle outlet wire line feeds regardless of cb size. (Though almost always 20a, esp for new runs)

[@TwilightxKnight13]

@@sapreaperf you are pulling 16 amps through a 15amp rated receptacle, it is a fire waiting to happen. Depending on the type and sensitivity of the circuit breaker, 16.6 amps may not trip a 20amp breaker and constantly drawing overcurrent through an underrated receptacle will cause it to fail over time. Given the environment (a kitchen) there are plenty of combustible materials that could catch fire before the breaker detects enough overcurrent to trip. Just because it has worked so far does not make it safe.

[@EonTide1111]

So this probably will seem very dumb but I tried buying the code book online and I got the hand book, going through the handbook it had a lot of code In it , so I’m a bit confused , what is the difference between them

[@WilliamAlanPhoto]

I may have missed it, but I think you did not mention if there is any difference in the wire used, or the breaker associated. I assume 12/2, and a 20A breaker.

[@802Garage]

You cannot use a 20A receptacle or breaker with 14 gauge wire, so yes in this case it is 12 gauge wire and a 20A breaker since it is a 20A circuit with the option to use 15A or 20A receptacles.

[@SparkyChannel]

You're correct, I should have included the NEC table for size of wires needed for 15A and 20A circuits. I'll catch that in another video.

[@JasonW.]

I prefer to run all my kitchen appliances off 240v 30a circuits. Both food and appliances cook 300% faster

[@SparkyChannel]

LOL! Happy April fools Day!

[@bptech33]

I am confused about the "feed-thru rating". I am assuming that is the rating allowed when the power wire is connected to top screw and the load wire [downstrean outlets] is connected to the bottom screw. BUT if the box wiring is using the "pig-tail" method where the power wire ,and load wire, and pigtail are connected with wirenut, then the only current going to/thru the outlet is "that" outlet and the pass-thru current to downstream outlets is goig thru the wire-nut connection. In which case the feed-thru rating of the outlet is not significent. or am I missing something?? 2nd Question: Is the "pig-tail" method a code requirement?

[@surferdude642]

Your first statement is correct as the feed thru rating is only relevant when the top and bottom screws are used to connect downstream. For your 2nd question, the answer is no, it's not a code requirement.

[@j2o3sh]

Just from the CEC side. We have a code section that requires certain wire awg to be on and only up to certain amp rating (other parts change that ie motors etc). So the NEC allows just say 14 awg to be on a 20 amp breaker in general? (Talking dwelling units ).

[@SparkyChannel]

No, 14AWG is only allowed on 15 amp circuits per the NEC.

[@moparmark2146]

Is it acceptable to use 20Amp outlets with 14 AWG wire with a branch circuit breaker rated at 15 Amps?

[@moparmark2146]

Note - I do not have any 20Amp devices that have the horizontal neutral prong.

[@maxheadroom8857]

Whenever I replace a duplex in my home, I use the ones that have the same amperage rating as the circuit breaker. The first time I ever saw a 20 amp grounded duplex was back in 1980 when I helped my brother move into a new college campus apartment at University of California Irvine. My home has ungrounded duplexes with both horizontal and vertical slots on both the hot and neutral sides. The neutral side has a bigger slot, per NEC code from 1955. I have 2 two part questions regarding meeting code for a 20 amp circuit regarding half receptacle-half switch outlets: does the half switch half outlet count as a duplex on a 20 amp circuit and meet code under the exception listed for using a 15 amp rated receptacle on a 20 amp circuit? I have not seen a 20 amp half switch half outlet at any electrical supply or hardware store, ever. And in my garage, I have several pull chain lights with 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. My garage is a detached garage on one breaker. I just saw a rule, requiring a switch now to act as a separate manual cutoff from the breaker box, before it reaches the GFCI that cuts off the rest of the circuit. Do I need to upgrade my circuit by installing a 20 amp rated switch upstream from my GFCI which protects the rest of the garage, including my lights? I can pull my single gang box, and replace it with a double gang box to install a 20 amp rated cutoff switch next to my GFCI, which will protect the rest of the circuits downstreaming from it. Fortunately, the studs are all exposed in my garage, making the job easier.

[@SparkyChannel]

HI! Excellent questions. If you look at 1:54, you will see that NEC is only referring to "contact devise". That would be something that receives a plug, so a switch wouldn't count IMO. Perhaps the switch you're referring to is a breaker in the panel?

[@RJ-ej1nr]

"Does the half switch half outlet count as a duplex on a 20 amp circuit and meet code under the exception listed for using a 15 amp rated receptacle on a 20 amp circuit?" What a great question! I'm no AHJ, but in my reading and digging, I don't think it meets the exception. One option would be to use a 2 gang box with the switch and single receptacle as different devices. They do make faceplates for that, too. But if you are going to that trouble, you'd probably put in a duplex next to the switch, lol.

[@RJ-ej1nr]

Regarding your garage question, from 225 (outside branch circuits and feeders), 31 (disconnecting means) "..means shall be provided for disconnecting all ungrounded conductors...". This is before anything else, so yes, this is before other devices such as your GFCI. Additionally, there are requirements on the location of disconnecting means (readily accessible, where the conductors come in): 225.31(B) (2023) or 225.32 (2020). Local requirements can come up here too, like your fire department wanting it outside, more than a snap switch, labeled.

[@maxheadroom8857]

@@RJ-ej1nr my home is on 1955 NEC Code where there was no requirement for a shutoff. My breaker box and meter are outside of the house. My GFCI is easily accessed, as it's the 1st on the run, on an open stud. There is no plaster on my garage walls, so the box is easy to replace. I saw another user's video of a detached garage from 1920 with knob & tube wires being rewired to modern NM wiring. I figured on asking about the shutoff, as it's better safe than sorry, even though the GFCI will trip and shut off the whole garage. My lights are on the GFCI circuit. If a 20 amp Spec Grade Decor switch is available, I can use a double gang box and put the two next to each other. That way, it'll be easy access.

[@maxheadroom8857]

@@SparkyChannel what I have in my kitchen per 1955 NEC is a garbage disposal on the half switch with a combination outlet on a 20 amp kitchen circuit. The Square D XO Breaker assigned to my kitchen powers all the receptacles in the kitchen. Originally, the first switch that powered the disposal was a 2 prong combo switch in a bonded box. I replaced the switch once in 1985 with a grounded combo switch - there was a ground wire in the box for the switch, to ground the disposal. The disposals were hard wired. I know the old 1955 code permitted wiring the circuit with the half outlet and switch.

[@legalize420]

But now why would someone use 50a receptacle on a 40a circuit?

[@redkey6538]

Are you supposed use a 20 amp gfci if the circuit breaker is 20 amp? My gfci has number 14 awg wire going to it and says it is a 20 amp gfci I thought you could only put a 20 amp gfci receptacle if the wire is number 12 awg.

[@surferdude642]

No, it's only optional. With 14 awg, your receptacle or GFCI receptacle must be 15 amp, and the breaker must also be 15 amp. You are correct, you can only use a 20 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit with 12 awg. Whether it's a GFCI or regular receptacle is irrelevant.

[@SparkyChannel]

Ted's answer is spot on.

[@z1522]

As usual, the NE Code update still has the inevitable ambiguities, which could be clarified with a couple clear illustrations of what is and is NOT acceptable. The old SNL skit about "You can't put too much water into a nuclear reactor" should be on a plaque over every Code editor's desk. To wit: At 1:00, a Single Receptacle on a Branch Circuit shall have its rating not LESS than the Circuit, i.e. 20A. So, this Branch Circuit as I read, could continue on, to a series of duplex receptacles, which could all be 15A. It does NOT say that the Single receptacle is the ONLY one on the entire circuit. At 2:40, the wording is still just as ambiguous; a simple drawing, of a line with One receptacle, Ok, and another with additional receptacles either single, duplex, beyond, either green circled OK, or red bar circled NOT okay, would completely answer such questions. The question asked in the lead to this video is NOT the one to ask; what is being asked, is should we select a higher quality, pricier receptacle, over the minimal allowed by Code, because of its construction compromises? Better 15A units are built to the same higher standards, so the 20A relationship is irrelevant, and even misleading, when I have literally never seen any small kitchen appliance with a 20A plug demanding a 20A outlet.

[@user-ir1xl8om4w]

You're wrong if you put two of the same outlets from the same brand of 15 and 20 next to each other and take them apart and measure the gauge of metal through the same thickness of metal

[@lightinside87]

I won't install a 20 amp receptacle unless the appliances recommends it or requires a nema 5-20p

[@SparkyChannel]

Sounds good.

[@lightinside87]

Good videos though, I come here a lot because it's informative! 😊

[@mikeconnors8184]

Can 14 gauge solid core be used on 20 amp breaker & 15 amp dual receptacle?

[@stevesnop3798]

No

[@SparkyChannel]

No.

[@kenbrown2808]

14 gauge wire may not be protected at more than 15 amps. 12 gauge wire may not be protected at more than 20 amps.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Solid core vs stranded is irrelevant. For the purposes of ampacity rating and NEC code, solid core and stranded are identical. They both have an equivalent resistance which determines the heat dissipation characteristics which is the most important factor for safety ratings and code calculations. While stranded is generally easier to work with because of its flexibility, material (copper vs aluminum) and size (14 vs 12 awg) are the factors to consider, though insulation type (THHN) is also a factor for some applications.

[@MrTooTechnical]

That’s all I buy these dsys

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent!

[@theoisaac9948]

👍💯👍

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Theo!

[@mikealmazan7891]

Why can you put a 50A receptacle on a 40A circuit?

[@sparkitup6193]

Again.... According to code Your personal preference doesn't mean its wrong

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@mothman-jz8ug]

Builders are notorious for doing the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM. Examples are running 15 amp circuits for receptacles, as using 14 AWG wire saves them $100 per THOUSAND FEET of wiring. Never mind having tow keep both 14 and 12 gauge wire on hand, saving 10 cents a foot is paramount. Another lovely example is putting only one receptacle outlet on a 12 foot wall. Hit dead center with it and you're meeting code. Sure, the home owner will come to hate you for such cheap crap, but the big thing is to save $1.25 for that extra plastic box and bargain basement "residential grade" receptacle to put in 2 outlets. It''s okay - let 'em hate you, right? You got their money, so who cares...

[@microcolonel]

I want NEMA L6-20P everywhere but the NFPA bullies say the receptacles need to be 125V. :+ (

[@highvoltage1979]

L5-20 is 120 volt

[@edgarherrera4761]

You mean “Decora”receptacles

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Technically Decora is a descriptor specific to a manufacturer (Leviton)that is trademarked. It is a cosmetic feature, not a functional one. Other manufacturers cannot use that specific name for their versions of “rocker” style switches and “flat-faced” receptacles. They generally use terms like “decorator” for their versions. It is like calling tissue paper, Kleenex, or a cotton swab a Qtip. All Qtips are cotton swabs, but not all cotton swabs are Qtips.

[@benjaminwilliams3568]

Wago lever Nuts Type Outlets: Bill what's your take on the new Leviton Wago lever nut style of receptacles and outlets? See this vid: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoq7ZGOfid2me9E

[@SparkyChannel]

I'll be making a Sparky Channel review. Stay tuned.

[@iowawrench]

Maybe could compare it to the new Hubbell Edge connect outlets?

[@Bryster51]

You describe the plug in facing area on the 20amp rated plug as grabbing the plug harder.. It is not the facing that does so, it is the underlying connections, not the face. Flat face vs "plug finder" type of face is not relevant to what you are saying to folks on this video.

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, that's right. The commercial spec receptacle grabs the plug considerably harder. I didn't mean it to sound like the face made a difference. As you say, the face doesn't matter. I specifically used the non-TR receptacles for the video in hopes that the copper connector inside would show. They are more heavy-duty on the commercial spec receptacle.

[@Donate_Please]

Why do the laws of physics stop applying to 15 amp receptacles when you have more than one?? I think someone at the NEC has stock in 15 amp outlets. Amperage is basically like a heat rating the device is facilitated to withstand. All parts of the circuit should have the same or better amperage rating than the breaker. It's not like the customer can't plug in a power strip with a 19 amp load and burn the receptacle without tripping the breaker. There's potentially 5 amps of current, or more, that could pass through the 15 amp receptacle before it gets to the pass through. Adding an additional 15 amp receptacle does not change the amperage rating of the individual receptacle. The code basically required the customer to be psychic and somehow magically know the amperage rating of each receptacle. How ridiculous.. And, it's not about just preventing your house from burning down. It's about power loss through heat which raises your electric bill. Spending the extra $.50 for a 20 amp receptacle will save you money in the long run.

[@foogod4237]

You are seriously confusing the difference between "20 amp" and "commercial grade". The two have absolutely nothing to do with each other. All of the reasons you gave were actually only reasons for using a *commercial grade* ("spec grade") receptacle instead of a residential grade one. They have nothing to do with the current rating of the socket at all. (There are many many spec grade 15A sockets, too, not just from Leviton but from almost all manufacturers) The only significant difference between a 15A receptacle and _the same grade of_ 20A receptacle is that a 20A receptacle allows you to plug 20A power cords into it. That's it. Most people do not have anything that uses a 20A power cord (and never will), so for most people _there is absolutely no advantage to using a 20A receptacle,_ period. You can just use 15A commercial grade receptacles instead, and it will be just as good.

[@mikelezan1023]

Hello, I was wondering if you have used the Leviton Decora Edge 15 Amp Tamper-Resistant Duplex, PUSH. CLICK. DONE outlets and your opinion of them?

[@scottg7660]

Why can you have a 50 amp receptacle on a 40 amp circuit?

[@JasonW.]

I couldn't find a 40a receptacle when I put in a 40a circuit this year

[@kenbrown2808]

because there is no 40A receptacle. 40 amp circuits are used for electric ranges, and they were originally 50 amp circuits - rather than require a change in range receptacles, they just specified that 50 amp rated receptacles could also be installed on 40 amp circuits.

[@surferdude642]

Because a 40 amp 240 volt circuit is for a permanent installation and not to be used for anything else but the appliance nearby, such as a clothes dryer. As long as the appliance is rated for 40 amps or less and the wire gauge is appropriate for the current, there's no problem. 15 amp receptacles are all over the house and can be potentially used for any appliance or tool. A homeowner can, unknowingly use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit and cause a potential over current situation.