Simple steps to fix small dents and prepare your car for paint!

today I share the simple steps to fix small dents and prepare your car for paint. This video is perfect to learn how to properly use body filler for a long-lasting repair on your car body or restoration project. I'll cover how to mix, apply, sand, and block and some do's and don'ts of working with bondo/ body filler.
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R500 paint gun 1.3 tip
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G90e spot welder dent tool
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Dura gold adjustable block
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round sanding block
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dry guide coat
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prep solvent
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mirka dustless sanding system
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Icing glazing putty
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If you find this video helpful, be sure to let me know in the comments. I welcome your feedback and questions
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of garage noise, it can not guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information or improper use of this information. Garage Noise assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair videos. Due to factors beyond the control of garage noise, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again, any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not garage noise

[@willsachs]

Great job as always, love the channel!

[@GarageNoise]

Thank's brother! Appreciate the comment and support!

[@silvercommander]

I have never used icing. But I love dolphin glaze. And upol flyweight filler.

[@octanegarage3729]

Great video. Thanks for the tip

[@GarageNoise]

Thank's @octanegarage

[@sheerwillsurvival2064]

Excellent tips and advice

[@GarageNoise]

Thank's brother!

[@The_R-n-I_Guy]

I always use a skim coat of icing even if i get it straight with the regular plastic filler. Use icing and a finer sandpaper to finish before primer. A lot less sand scratches

[@GarageNoise]

I do the same thing

[@troyadams1076]

Thanks that I one really help me today thanks

[@GarageNoise]

No problem! Appreciate your comment and support!

[@JohnWD40TC02]

Hey Chris thanks again for another interesting video, sorry but I have to keep saying this but your videos are very helpful as you explain each and every step in great detail. I cant remember if you've done a video on how to prepare a panel for a flowcoat, I do quite a few flowcoats but my problem is that I tend to cut through the edges and any sharp bodylines even if I sand up to the edge with my DA and finish by hand, a tutorial like this may be helpful to others as well👌🙏 thanks👍

[@GarageNoise]

Brother I appreciate the comments! You can use a 1500 scuff pad for those edges. Technically they say it coarse enough for adhesion. I like a little bit more aggressive scratch.

[@JohnWD40TC02]

Ok thanks Chris, I've been using the 3M 800 grippy sanding cloth so I'll try the scuff pad see how I get on, appreciate all you do for the community🙏👍

[@anansiackhasone3428]

Great video good to use because I just dented my Silverado

[@GarageNoise]

👍

[@jamesward5721]

Love all your vids - you need to look into glue-pulling, it will change the way you approach loads of bodywork issues, especially when there's no access from the rear to use conventional methods - plus you get to use no filler or paint.. I started using what everyone uses, tabs, slide hammers, hand pullers, blah blah - it was only when I moved on to using mechanical lateral tension-pullers & mechanical tab-pullers (that can exert huge pressures on a panel in a pull, waay beyond any hand pull tool) that it started to really be a game changer. With mechanical pulling you can even drag bashed-in quarter panels & sills back to shape - areas where there is no access from behind. Lateral tension is the real game-changer though - once you begin to understand & use that method, what you can achieve in repairs starts becoming mind-blowing - plus how easy repairs become compared to the usual methods. Those small dings become a doddle when you can exert 500, 600 or even 1000 kg of force onto a panel in order to reverse them. My current system can exert a maximum of 1500kg of tension - which is "a lot" when it comes to small dents. Upgrading to 6000kg of force is quite easy, but I doubt it would be worthwhile as I have yet to find anything much that 1500kg won't deal with.

[@GarageNoise]

I've seen sme of that done. It's quite impressive! especially on those larger dents. I would love to give it a shot and get some more info on tools and such.

[@toxsicxr8ford57]

Thanks mate 👌

[@GarageNoise]

Any time!

[@acuramdx62]

True professional can’t say that enough!!!

[@GarageNoise]

Thank's bud!

[@pcdetail602]

I'm hooked on this channel 😂. Did you only painted the primer areas only ?

[@GarageNoise]

Yes, and blended into the bedside. Appreciate your comment and support!

[@michaelkennedy2190]

Hey Chris great channel. Can you leave a link for using the foam tape for door jams . Thank you

[@GarageNoise]

Here ya go amzn.to/44tKkKk

[@michaelkennedy2190]

@@GarageNoise Thank you sir!

[@automotiverefinishingdave]

Spraying primer at 2 turns out on a 1.3 i would expect the gun not to handle that. At least give the gun a fair chance and go full fluid if a 1.3. great video mate 👍

[@GarageNoise]

👍

[@jamesmarques7245]

I have been using a stud gun. I bought ot 23 years ago.

[@GarageNoise]

Wow ,must be a good one!

[@davidd727]

I see where others sand down to bare metal and apply primer first then body filler. What’s your thought on that?

[@GarageNoise]

Some prefer to apply an epoxy primer before filler. That's fine to do, nothing wrong with it. I don't feel it's necessary to do under filler. The only time I would recommend epoxy is if your stripping you car down to bare metal for a project that you won't get to right away to protect it while you wait to do bodywork. Appreciate the comment and support!

[@robertcharlton1551]

Good job on the Silverado. I was hoping to see the finish product. Or at least watch you paint it. But I forgive you. Does it cost you to run the recording video?

[@GarageNoise]

The paint video is live on this one

[@dougpeirce726]

I'm surprised you didn't try PDR technics. Those dents didn't look very large or difficult to fix. Could have saved the original paint. Good work though.

[@GarageNoise]

I'm just not that good with pdr rods yet. I'm working on it though, maybe someday. Appreciate the comment!

[@silvercommander]

Do u have an affiliate link and or product code for g90e?

[@GarageNoise]

Yep here it is thank you for the support! amzn.to/44FjHD9

[@craigcarter5276]

When should you seal a car I was told only when multiple colors?

[@GarageNoise]

I basically seal to get a uniform substrate, you know to make it all one color. I try not to If I can help it because in an open garage you can introduce more dust in the sealer. Also if you have an open paint edge that wasn't primed over. Appreciate your comment and support!

[@chuck5743]

I have a question. When I sand body filler then I paint always get mapping you can see the bodywork under my paint and I used guide coat what am I doing wrong ?

[@GarageNoise]

I will answer you question in a short it will be easier. Mapping can be caused by shrinking primer, improper prep on paint edge, or not refining the sanding scratches before primer also cheap filler or primer. I will be making a video on this topic. Appreciate the comment!

[@user-eg1hk1cl7v]

Do you like your other worker fix and apply bondo or does he just watch?

[@user-eg1hk1cl7v]

With the body lines why aren’t you putting tape on them like other videos??