ULTIMATE RATCHET STRAP GUIDE! How To Safely Tie Down A Tractor To A Trailer! Plus Tie Down Tips!

[@Robalo246]

You put in so much effort in your videos to show how you do things, it is really appreciated. I like how particular you are about keeping everything in perfect condition. I know who to go to when I want to see how I would do it. When I was looking for a buff and wax on a tractor I knew it would be you who showed it.

[@dennisveich3123]

As a retired C-130 Loadmaster, I have had the opportunity to restrain a LOT of stuff during my career. One of the biggest requirements, no mater what you use, is that the restraints are applied laterally symmetrical and in pairs. However, as a tractor newbie, this is still great information! :)

[@billywayne6104]

This guy is the most qualified person here to give advice on load securement.....shit is like an art to them!!!

[@beerguitar69]

CGU-1B. Loadmasters best friend. Haha.

[@dennisveich3123]

We used to have a saying: "Loadmasters do it in the rear with straps and chains"

[@billywayne6104]

@@dennisveich3123 i dont think i want to know the origins of that motto lol

[@eddevarona8448]

Not sure I understand this method. Could you please clarify? I once secured my tractor laterally from side to side and we almost ended up with the tractor in the bed of the truck after making a necessary quick stop, as the tractor rolled forward. I’m definitely no expert on this, but since that incident i secure the back end toward the rear of the trailer and the front toward the front of the trailer. That seems to work better with wheeled equipment to keep it from rolling forward or backward. I can see straight lateral strapping with non-wheeled equipment but it doesn’t make sense to me with wheeled equipment. So, i may have misunderstood your comment. Could you please explain? Thanks.

[@juddwhetten7141]

Disclaimer: I don't have much experience hauling stuff, nor do I know the DOT regulations. My experience in physics would suggest that if I am only concerned about front to back movement, I would run the straps straight back towards the rear and straight forward towards the front. If I am only concerned about side to side movement, I would run the straps perpendicular to the sides of the trailer. Obviously, we are concerned about movement in all directions. Other things being equal, running the straps at 45 degrees would optimize the tension in all directions. That being said, crossing the straps would make the horizontal component of the angle longer which makes the vertical angle smaller. According to physics, that would reduce the hold down capacity. Counter productive in my opinion. Great video, btw. Subscribed

[@johnnysvideos1]

^^^what he said^^^

[@bobd9193]

@Judd Whetten. I Let me start off by saying, I'm aware this is a response to a year old post and the chances of you seeing this are extremely small. With that being said, I don't mean to be "preachy" or sound like I think that I'm smarter than anyone else, or that I'm talking down to anyone, because that is not my intent in the least. Now, with that out of the way. You are correct in that the shorter, more vertical strap run increases the downward force exerted upon the tractor/load. I'm not meaning to be argumentative but... As I'm sure you are aware, the main objective of tieing something down on a truck or trailer is to ensure that it stays where you put it. So unless you are driving on an extremely rough/uneven surface, by far, the greatest forces applied to a load while being transported will be in a horizontal direction. Because of the sheer weight of the load itself, the vertical forces are minimal in relation to the horizontal. Therefore, the longer horizontal strap run ensures that whatever is strapped down will not move in a horizontal direction, And the X pattern which uses a longer/flatter angle, pulling either away from, or towards the opposing front to rear ratchets increases the holding power of the straps on the horizontal plane. Which is why I have always used the X pattern. I'm not saying it's better, ( I think it is, I'm just not saying it. lol ) I'm just saying that it's always worked very well for me. I haven't lost a load yet. But then I always tend to overdo it when it comes to securing a load, I always use more straps/chains than I think I need. Now, I'm not trying to toot my own horn, I'm just trying to explain that I'm not some keyboard warrior sitting in my mother's basement, I have extensive rigging/tie down experience. I'm a Retired US Navy veteran, And by the way, the military always has and still uses the X pattern to this day. I've been a truck driver/heavy equipment operator, and load rigger for the last 55+ years, and I still do it almost every day. I'm currently the owner/operator of an excavation business, so suffice it to say that even though I don't consider myself an expert, I've tied down my share of loads.

[@percywest5448]

I often carry materials or equipment on trailers. I also prefer straps but I never had any coaching on how they operate or how to use them. I have been using straps for years but I learned some new things that had not occurred to me before. Like pushing the over hand knot up to tighten the excess strap. You made a really good video and I am sure it has enlightened a lot of folks. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I am now a new subscriber.

[@marclambert2936]

Outstanding video! Just what I needed to get me smarter on the options for hauling heavier equipment. Thank you!

[@s1283]

Loved the diversity in this video. I consistently haul 40k lbs of equipment and don’t have any choice but to use chains. I can appreciate what you’ve shown and can also verify it’s good info.

[@mitch_smith]

First: your video production quality has grown by leaps and bounds. Well done. Really enjoying it. Second: the reusable zip tie idea is brilliant. i've got 4 or 5 packs of those things and it never crossed my mind to do that. just paused the video, went to the basement and tossed a pack in the truck box. thanks a lot.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thanks Mitch! I'm still a hack, but trying to make the most of what I've got! 🤣

[@benjaminstockton3917]

I liked the way you showed different straps and how to use them the yellow one looks like good way to strap a tractor down and i like the reusable zip ties Thanks for sharing these wonderful video's I appreciate them very much buddy

[@genegoodman5233]

I love Log chains, they are great. Like a lot of things, if you use them for what they are intended to be used for. Logs on a trailer, logs anywhere, logs. I do use them on a lot of tie downs, cause they are easy to use in the proper application. If to long just let the rest lay on the trailer. Until the big straps and ratchets came alone, the chain was all we had. My first 2” X 15’ strap costs around $25. Now a 2” X 27’ strap costs $10-$15. The old farmer hauled his equipment very little and didn’t have extra money for unnecessary items. Now everybody has a big truck, custom built trailers, big and little tractors brand new, so we don’t want to scratch the paint. What do we do? We buy a bunch of different strap so we keep our stuff looking good. I’m just as bad as everything else, I like my toys. I did learn a few things from your video, like the axle strap. I’m 75 disabled so why am I watching your videos, I hate TV and I still want to learn. Thanks for your knowledge.

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

You missed out on using cable and cable binders? Got stabbed many times by the frayed cables

[@professionalinspectionserv9468]

I grew up using rope for most everything and boy we could cinch things down! I had bigger things and used chains and binders no problem just check and retighten. Then started on some straps... the axle straps really made things easy for vehicles, tractors and even golf carts. Made a 2500 mile trip one way with a tied down truck inside a cargo trailer. Used axel straps all 4 corners, one chain/binder in the middle front and rear. That truck never moved even though I64/I70/I80 some of the worst roads in America! The chains for me were insurance of no movement toward or back.😊 Go Army!!

[@gh50hill1]

One of the most useful videos I have ever seen on youtube. Been cursing these things for years but not anymore.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Glad to help!

[@belindakt]

Great video, you present several practical & safe ways to secure a load. Why yes, I see the light!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Haha, thanks as always Belinda!

[@henryrodgers3409]

What a great video . Yes you got the 15 watt light bulb replaced on the clock . LOL This has got to be one of the best videos on how to strap something on a trailer . I'm sure this video took a lot of time to make . So many helpful hints . I'm sure you helped many people with this video . I know it helped me . Had my truck towed ( bad starter ) the other day by the auto club . It was a platform truck and they used the straps that went over the tires .Thanks for all of the links . Just wanted to add that with you doing videos like this is very impressive . It shows that you care about your customers . If I was in the market for a used tractor or some new implement you would be the first person I would deal with . It shows that you really care . Having D rings installed some where in the middle of the floor is a great idea . You can also get straps that have a bungee on them to take out any vibration preventing the strap from becoming loose . They do stretch at times . Thanks

[@BigBirdNest]

In my experience with criss crossing the straps (or chains) starting on one side attached to your load, and drawing to the opposite side, is most often for oversize loads and anything wider than your trailer. However it still works great on smaller equipment as well. I've been told before when securing a load to your trailer, try to have your straps or chains make an "A" or an "X". So in this video, you used the "A" method - start at your load and draw down to the side. The "X" method is like I mentioned with oversize loads - start at one side of your load, and draw down to the opposite side, once you attach your second strap or chain, it makes an "X".... Great video! Very informative and should help many people

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thank you Brian!

[@bambiileanachandler4656]

So helpful, I'm an older lady that has to haul my mower and tractor on occasion on a big trailer. Anxiety! This video is giving me more confidence. Thank you.

[@salrobustelli5413]

Great video. Thank you. Extremely helpful for a 1st time tractor owner.

[@garycarrington4896]

Very nice demo, you are very well spoken and give very concise , and accurate descriptions of what you are trying to do . If we follow your advice it will be a safe tie down.

[@raymondmcdonald7085]

When hauling my tractor I use DOT grade chains with ratcheting load binders which can be adjusted infinitely. I use the straps for all of the attachments. They are both great options!

[@dancarroll741]

That's the only way to go' that's what I use on my small backhoe..

[@hausnerr]

I agree. Everything else is Mickey mouse. He just had not had the right chain tightners. Racheting is the only way to go. And I never have had a chain break on my like straps.

[@ritterjon]

💥 I like that lasso strap idea around the tires. I see car haulers use similar tire straps all the time. It makes great sense to me. Easy to use for someone who is smarter than the mechanical complexities of a ratchet strap. I laugh at how some people really struggle with ratchets. Keep on tractoring!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

🤣 Thanks for watching Ritter. When's your next video coming out?

[@ritterjon]

Good Works Tractors I know it’s been awhile. I need to get something out soon. We’ve either been too busy or it’s too cold. I need to think of something. I’d like to make some plowing vids but we haven’t had any significant snow lately. Thinking of doing some KZbin live vids. We’ll see what happens I guess.

[@BBBYpsi]

Fantastic video & showing different ways & straps to use. I give this a 100%. Well done young man.

[@daviddunn1923]

Excellent video of multiple ways to tie down tractors. Thanks for creating!

[@midcoasttractorservice9182]

I learned a neat trick from repo nut and also an old truck driver when it comes to straps. The truck driver said you should always put a twist in the strap so they don't slap back and forth and come loose. And repo nut on youtube always tucks the end of the strap in the ratcheting mechanism so that the extra strap doesn't go flying if it comes loose.

[@malcolmtaylor111]

I started using reponut's strap tucking method a couple years ago, every person who has seen it has been impressed.

[@derekhuber3392]

I worked for a plastic tank manufacturer years ago. I learned a lot of tricks on strapping down a load from the hot shot drivers. The twisted strap was one of those.

[@Skashoon]

I am brand new to tractors and trailering. I’ve been watching several videos on this topic. Tomorrow I’ll be picking up a tractor.

[@robinbrown3347]

I sewed a velcro strip on the end of my straps so when I fold up the surplus I wrap it with the vector strip to the strap. After I finish with the strap I roll it up and secure the roll with the velcro. I carry the straps in a duffle bag and it saves a lot of time to reach in and pull out a strap without having to untangle it. I also have 2 movable collars on all my straps to slide in place over corners. Saves me a lot of time when strapping stuff down.

[@teambronx2447]

I have watched so many hours of yours and tractor time with tim. Everything I need to know about tractors Ive learned from you two. thank you very much. great job... Maybe do Marriage counselling next haha.

[@stevenerickson5449]

Excellent video with useful information. I did just see one from Tractor time with Tim. He was with a State Trooper discussing load tie-down. A few notes from that video. If you are towing an 8000 lb unit, you have to have 4K is hold down. Each hold-down, strap, or chain, has a rated load level. If it is attached at both ends, you get 1/2 credit. So an 8K tractor with 4 2K staps is minimal. As for what I do. I use a combination of chains and straps, depending. If haling my bobcat, it usually is a chain. I go forward and to the side in all four corners, if possible. If I need more forward/back or lateral, I will add a strap in that direction. You cannot over secure a load only under secure it. Another analogy I use is if the trailer came off the truck, would the trailer and the tractor stay together. They should.

[@samjohnson1344]

Good video and teaching for people new to equipment hauling. Straps are much easier for small equipment as long as guards are used. I like the rubber one you showed. I'll stick to chains but everything I haul requires them.

[@skipbickford3970]

I like the tying for and aft. You almost scared me leaving out dropping the hook through and bring it up to hook on the top of the rail You always do a super job thank you

[@patrickwheatley6156]

Thanks for making this video! I love ratchet straps myself..... well I should say I loved them once I learned how to use them correctly lol.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

😂 thanks for watching man!

[@rbhillner]

I always learn something or refresh my memory when I watch these videos, great stuff thanks.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thanks for watching Rick!

[@danielsmith2447]

Nice video, I love the Mytee products line, they have everything you need to secure and protect cargo. A couple things, first when I secure equipment....... there isn't a strap in sight. Straps have their place and I use them a lot, just not for equipment. Second, the reason your strap binds when you are trying to loosen them is because you are feeding them through incorrectly, do not feed the strap back through, leave the long end towards the inside of the ratchet.

[@dancoleman8467]

Superb video. I learn more here than anywhere. Thank you so much.

[@rdnkrfnk]

having been a truck driver using many straps the reason the bungy cord is a little bit long is because when you fold the excess strap it supposed to go over the ratchet handle then be held by the bungy cord this secures the extra strap and makes sure the handle stays in place plus you strap should make no less than 2 revolutions around the ratchets center as friction is what holds it

[@budwebflooring]

the best tie down video I've seen thanks

[@angelaalberson4859]

great video and very informative! Ordered lasso straps and cant wait to use them! Hope it didn't snow too much!

[@johnetheriedge8675]

Had a shot on the a jacket at the end. Thanks

[@ksundar6594]

Brilliant video. Learned a lot. Btw, the small bungee with the ball - the ball can be slid down the bungee to adjust the length ;)

[@MrSnowplow2]

As a flatbed truck driver it’s been my rule that it takes steel to haul steel. That being said straps have there place. Also keep in mind you need to know the total weight of the cargo you’re hauling to ensure you have the right amount of securement. The FMCSA requires half the WLL (working load limit) for the weight you haul. Example if your load weighs 20,000lbs then you need 10,000 lbs worth of WLL. The working load is the weakest piece of securement. IE rub rail ,strap, chain,binder ect. When you secure a load the way you did from the tractor to the rub rail or d ring the wll is cut in half. So your 2000lb WLL axle strap is now 1000lbs.

[@karldawnlang8936]

Amen on all statements. Personally, I chain everything of course I haul primarily equipment, implements and attachments. Plus, I trust only the lever binders (I know everyones says rachet); however, if time is spend installing "CORRECTLY" they wil never loosen and fail. Chains have to be straight, binder hooks in line. Old school done right!

[@angelaalberson4859]

Making sure I understand the WLL changes.... I am strapping a 4K lb tractor at four points. I need 2000 lbs of WLL. 1. Does that mean 2000 lb WLL strap for each point? or 500 lbs WLL per point? Or, do I use 2000 lb strap on each point? 2. Am I understanding correctly that when I secue at the D ring pocket or rail, my 2000 lb strap just became a 1000 lb strap. Therefore, ensure my strap WLL is twice the amount of WLL I need. 3. Is there a place or way to strap that you don not cut ou WLL in half? I have observed individuals strap across loads from D ring to D ring etc. Does this cut the WLL in half? 4. Once Johnny straps his load correctly with the right amount of WLL, How many apples will he have when he gets home? :)

[@gordonbemis671]

Very interesting video but I still prefer my chains and binders. I believe in my state (NY) we are required to have the tractor fastened at 4 points and any attachments, loader, backhoe etc fastened at two points thus requiring a total of 6 to 8 fasteners. Keep up the great work I love your videos.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

I feel it gives a very reassuring feeling knowing all corners are secured along with attachments. Thanks for watching!

[@_theghost_1446]

Same in No Dak

[@WilsonHarpe]

Very helpful. Thank you for your time and thoroughness.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thanks for watching!

[@ZeroCarbDaddy]

LOL nice model of your truck, trailer, and tractor. I enjoyed the video and the comments!

[@jimhager9946]

As is always the case, your video was entertaining and educational. The production quality is excellent. You've done a very nice job covering a complex and sometimes perplexing topic. The oil can and truck/trailer/tractor were moved from the left side of the top shelf to the right side of the top shelf.

[@MrDmmeeks]

Soft ties are common now among car haulers. Less chance of causing damage to the finish. As far as chains go, if you are going that route, use a ratchet type binder rather than the bear trap type. Little more money and maintenance but to me worth it for the versatility.

[@PDeker]

I don't understand all the thumbs down, very informative video on straps.

[@pdnetzer9561]

Thanks for fixing the light in the clock, it was bugging me! Merry Christmas!!🎄

[@drnh4444]

Great video and lots of good tips. I drive a flat bed truck and so many times I wish i had anchor points on the bed

[@freshcleanshave3569]

Snow to rain. Great video! Thanks!

[@Gatnor]

Great video. I was waiting for this one. How about a before and after how to clean and protect your tractor? What are the tips and tricks? What can and can't get wet? Do you wash it like a vehicle? Or a whole detailing series like your tire cleaning. Thanks for the great vids!

[@thomasbarnardjr9657]

In my experience securing loads is all about what you're securing, and what you're securing it to. My focus is always on keeping the load from any movement at all. I'm not a huge fan of crossing straps, although that can be a really effective solution in certain cases. Binding the four corners of the load is the best route in my opinion. That puts good down pressure on a four corners typically eliminating any movement at all. This is especially good for machines without any suspension such as tractors. A good winch is also a really effective way to keep certain machinery down. When carrying my kawasaki mule side by side, or one of my 4 wheelers, I use the winch to bind that front suspension down, and then I bind the rear corners which can done with a single strap, and it holds perfectly. As far as your questions concerning straight to the sides versus some angle to the front and rear, that's really irrelevant as long as there's good down pressure eliminating movement. If done properly either method will work just fine. A great addition for extra security is the use of tow chains. My friend got doing that. You can get them really cheap at Harbour Freight, Tractor Supply, or just about any similar store. I loosely wrap the chain around the front of what I'm loading( the bucket, loader arms, front axle etc), then around the front rail of my trailer, and back into itself, with just a small amount of slack. It doesn't actually bind anything down, but it does give extra security in the event something happens. And I think we all agree, that it's better to have more than to not have enough security when it comes to securing loads. I love both chains and straps, but like you I do prefer straps. It depends on what I'm securing, as to which method I prefer. Great video, and thanks for the information.

[@RentVan]

I did flatbed hauling lumber , drywall,etc. For 2 inch straps fold the extra strap in a coil about 1 foot. Make it flat then shove between the rail and the strap. Then tighten the rachet. The tension will hold it in place. No need for zip ties. Be careful with bungies to face away when doing tension. You should be able to ask anybody doing flatbed truck in a truck stop on the 2 inch straps if there is confusion on having the tension hold the extra in place.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thank you for chiming in!

[@eruscomer6820]

Thank you so much! Excellent video. Very articulate!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Glad it was helpful!

[@toddcross6619]

If your going for commercial transport (FMCSA) you have to also secure any attachment ex. Loader, backhoe, blade, etc. from movement. Also you have to have enough working load limit for half of the aggregated weight of load example 20,000 lb machine “load” needs 10,000 lbs at least of working load on straps so it would need 4 straps at 3,333 lb = 13,332 lbs working limit. Make sure that working load limit is printed on the strap or tag according to DOT. Love ur videos awesome job!

[@toddcross6619]

Also anything under 10,001 lbs doesn’t need all this great video is (Tie Down Inspection Fail? Truck and Trailer Tuesday with Trooper Hoover) on TRACTOR TIM WITH TIM Channel

[@Utah_Samson]

Thanks for taking the time to make a great video with excellent information on tying down equipment.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Happy to help!

[@henrycarlson7514]

Thank You . As a point of reference , I just watched a video that Fireball tool did where he took 2 inch ratchet straps to failure (april 25 2021). Merry Christmas. Thank you for demonstrating practical aplications

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

You are doing it quite well!! The other people need to test their tying system before taking off on their trip. Have someone watch while they pull forward and brake gently and then do the same backwards. If the tractor moves; then, they need to change the tie down system.

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

If they have a long trip, check the tie down system periodically for tightness. Especially if they are using chains and binders. 40 years of driving trucks

[@TheWeekendMedic]

I just bought the same lasso straps you featured - have to say they are very heavy duty - the ring is almost the diameter of my thumb, and of very good quality. Pricing was about $70 for a set of 4, and they arrived next day - about the same cost as two standard 2' straps, and much more useful.

[@joenotosr.2649]

Thanks for all the great info. You changed your hat!

[@1of7]

Excellent video - one of your best. Thank you.

[@MrDoyle07]

velcro bands are great for tying down excess strap

[@Zachmansd]

I have used both, although I do have a preference for chain. I know the typical 2 inch strap is good for a 10k lb. rating, but it's probably the same train of thought as others, that a chain seems inherently stronger than "a piece of fabric" I will agree with the keeping it look nice/don't scratch the paint. My argument against chain binders either too tight or too loose is that's usually the case for foldovers, I do prefer ratchet binders for this reason. Although I would like to invest in some of those straps that go over the tires of a vehicle to tie it down. Looks a lot easier than running chain up/under/through suspension components of whatever vehicle that I might end up hauling on my car trailer. If it's my lawn tractor, I just toss a strap over the floor pan/running board as it's a lot smaller/lighter and call it good.

[@markschmaus5580]

I have a 26ft enclosed trailer with D Rings in the floor. I had the trailet custom designed on the interior with extra D Rings and E Trac down the sidewalls. Works awesome !!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Is your trailer taller than standard? Mine is 6" higher, wish I would have gone even taller.

[@markschmaus5580]

@@GoodWorksTractors standard height. I wish i would have went one size longer tho. Im bout 5'10 can walk in and out without banging my head lol

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Trucks, trailers, barns, gun safes...one of these days I'll learn to just buy the biggest one possible the first time. Probably save myself a lot of money in the long run.

[@markschmaus5580]

@@GoodWorksTractors i hear ya. When i started my lawn care business....i didnt think long term and future growth in business. I have replaced my equipment 3x over. Now I only by the biggest and best.

[@chrisblair3414]

seems to me the way you installed the lasso strap, all the pressure is ultimately on the integrity of tire pressure and tire bead securing onto rim. great video.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

The tires are the contact point between the tractor and trailer regardless of the tie down point. There is a lot of pressure applied on the tires no matter where you're attaching to the tractor. No matter where I'm tying down, it's seldom that the tires aren't squatting at least a little bit. Additionally, tires are designed to take a load on the three point, loader, etc. I would think that is worse since you're typically in motion on uneven terrain where the load point is constantly shifting. Just my 2 cents.

[@tombarnes1871]

That is a monster of a trailer!!

[@genecarr4568]

Really liked this video as I am schedule to pick up my new tractor in January 2022. I had purchased a set of 2"x27' straps but afraid they might not hold an 8,000 lb. tractor and backhoe, so I also bought a set of rachet binders and chains. I will use the chains on the tractor and straps on the implements. I do like the idea of using "axle straps" to prevent paint scratching. Oh I did like the scavenger hunt for background changes. I watched the video three times. You stated there was only one background change. It seems there are actually two changes. Not sure that was planned. I noticed the oil and truck/trailer/tractor model moved from left side of the shelf to right side. I saw another commenter observed the clock was only lite on the left side. Bulb on right side was also on at end of video.

[@PaulChristenson]

A proper chain binder also allow for "infinite" adjustments as well...:) My Peerless QuikBinder has a minimum distance from the inside of one hook to the inside of the other hook is 24 inches. The maximum usable distance from the inside of one hook to the tip of the other hook is 28 inches. The full maximum distance from the inside of one hook to the inside of the other hook is 30 inches. That being said...I'll use fabric axle straps a little tractors...:)

[@macdawg6403]

Thanks for Vid.. Those Dang things has been a frustration for me hahaha

[@MichaelSmith-lp6ob]

When using a strap make sure to have at least 3 reps in the binder and it will never come loose so leave a little slack in the strap when you start to tighten the strap

[@Zakery2194]

I scrolled through all the comments specifically looking for comment alone. Because you should think about it such as a winch cable. ALWAYS have 3 to 4 wraps around the ratchet cylinder and you’re golden pony. 💯💯👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼

[@pauljones8346]

Thank you for all the new ideas

[@scottw9619]

Mac's tie-down

[@1000Strom]

Awesome! Just what I was looking for.

[@gwgillman1]

the Lasso strap is cool,gonna get 4 on the way,thanks

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Thanks for watching George!

[@gwgillman1]

@@GoodWorksTractors ,your very welcome,Information is always a good thing,I enjoy watching your channel here,gonna try to get in touch after I get my new John Deere and see what a snow bucket blade will run,if you even ship to Alaska ,thanks

[@amiller799]

JD clock light. Great video.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Good eye!

[@johndeno562]

Pull to the rear and to the front. Pulling straight across will allow tractor to move forward and backward. Put the heavier tiedown in the rear, you'll stop much faster than taking off. The light in the clock was out.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

I agree John. I receive many tractors in on trailers from Freight Haulers who pull straight to the side though. Probably the majority are tied down this way. Seems strange to me.

[@coypatton3160]

Good Works Tractors that is because you and they are using flat hook straps. It is very difficult to get the DOT recommended 45 degree angle with a flat hook. Lasso straps also do not lend themselves to a 45 degree angle. In order to obtain a good angle is to go from one side to the opposite side.

[@mikeholubek4419]

@@GoodWorksTractors Short cuts thats why they do it that way. You could also use bunji straps, all good until the tractor hits a bus full of Nuns

[@rayhochstetler2659]

The law is not MORE than a 45 degree angle. It isn’t required to be at that angle. I’m a professional driver that hauls steel coils and encourage all to read the Fmcsa requirements carefully. Not MORE than 45 degrees means anything between 90 and 45 degrees.

[@jrvera7955]

I have removible stake pocket D rings that go into the stake pocket and have a D ring on top

[@mikedkc]

Great job. Very educational!

[@darrengilliam9735]

You changed the bulb in the JD clock... Nice video...

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Bingo!

[@hectorcarrion9630]

Velcro zip ties work great

[@TRiceHD]

using a ratchet strap correctly is like putting a toilet paper roll on the holder. There is a right and a wrong way to do it. LOL Glad to see you do it the correct way!! Great info though in the video!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

😂👍

[@PEI_Guy]

The reusable zip ties are very cool. I prefer fastening things down with the straps a little forward and a little to the rear.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Me too!

[@TJbaseliner]

I laugh at how many people spend money to secure the tail end of their ratchet straps. The better way is to roll up the tail in about a 10" circle, flatten out this circle, then put it under your tension-ed strap. You can either put it between the strap and load, or between the strap and rub-rail. This way, if you have a problem (ie. strap coming loose), when you look in your mirror, you will see the strap tail waving in the wind long before it falls off.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Everyone has their own method. I like mine, you like yours.

[@TJbaseliner]

@@GoodWorksTractors My method saves you money on zip ties and gives you early warning something is amiss. Win-win in my opinion.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Zip ties aren't expensive. Neither are bungies, nor duct tape, nor twine, nor any other method that is more secure. I'm not concerned about an extra dollar spent when securing my loads. I'm more concerned with everything being secure.

[@TJbaseliner]

@@GoodWorksTractors How is duct tape, a bungee, or zip tie less secure than the 3300 lb wll of your ratchet strap? The ratchet strap is strong enough to secure the load, but not strong enough to hold the loose tail of your strap? Can you explain?

[@knoppma65]

@@TJbaseliner if your way gets loose and you see the tail flapping in the wind it might get under a tire before you can get stopped and bad things happen then

[@brandongustafson7497]

Those signs are awesome!! 😍

[@GoodWorksTractors]

They are pretty slick, thanks for watching!

[@tedleonard6426]

Thanks I am slip tie addict in a family of zip tie addicts, never saw a reusable one.

[@mal15102]

I use chains, no binders and straps It is important to secure the load from the rear with something strong. The forward part, not so much due to the brakes being far stronger than acceleration. Hauling a tractor, I connect the chain in the rear and tighten the chain with the tractor. I use ratchet straps in the front. For a non powered load. I use the straps to move the load fwd to tighten the chains in the rear.

[@bones549]

Great topic. I purchased my 2038r, and was a newbie. I read all the recommendations and bought chains and TTWT recommended binders. One thing you did not mention as an advantage of straps is weight. I did not plan on how much a grade 70 5/16" chain weights. However my dealer who did say they use straps but chains you only buy once. Straps you have to constantly check and replace if frayed or nicked at all. Now for a cheaper solution to padding to keep from scratching your paint. I took my old jeans, and cut the legs off. I pulled them through themselves and sewed them off. so I have a double layer of denim and feed the chain thru them and they work awesome as pads. (cheap too). Another advantage of a chain is the other uses like adding ken's bolt on hooks and such thing. Chains are easier to store in my opinion. I hate the way straps become a tangled mess. I did follow this guys video on how to store them and that helped as I keep several in my truck tool box. How do you store yours! kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZbJd6Opmp2ofbs Maybe another video! Great stuff!

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Good stuff!

[@rayhochstetler2659]

DOT regs state the the strap can’t have more than a 1/4 inch cut. So some fraying and abrasion is legal and from personal experience as a professional driver of 22 years or more, the last 13 years as a flatbed hauler, can attest to the safety of the straps that are well used and/or worn. We use both 2” and 4” straps. Chains and binders for steel coils or steel sheets.

[@michelgrenon3428]

I use old fire hose to protect my straps. I cut 2 or 3 ft lengths and slide the strap trough. Then you can place the hose in areas where the strap may get worn down during transport.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Yes, in fact, I meant to include something about that in the video, but completely forgot!

[@jamesheath9385]

I strap stuff down all the time on two different flat bed trailers. I keep a can of silicone spray in my truck and use it on contrary ratchets. Makes life so much easier.

[@danlux4954]

I use dry lube

[@jerrypelletier2328]

Love that green machine

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Me too!

[@scotteckelberry6856]

I use the reusable zip tie to hold my strip together in the storage position. then when i need to tie off the tail. i just use that same reusable zip tie. like you showed in the video.

[@kenjackson4177]

Have you ever been boating and tied off a boat to a dock with a long bow or stern rope? There is a technique of making a loop and pulling a section of the rope through the loop and repeating and repeating and repeating, till the excess is used all up in something that looks like a French braid in a girls hair. Difficult to describe, but boaters know what I mean. I do the same thing with my excess strap material. It is very efficient in using up the excess in a compact manor. No bungies to worry about, and the beauty of the system is it pulls out with one easy effort.

[@conorschaub3134]

It’s called a Chain Sinnet, but we always called it a daisy chain. Super useful.

[@kenjackson4177]

@@conorschaub3134 Thank you Sir, never knew the name, but use it all the time. Cheers

[@petelugo2681]

Outstanding video.

[@Jimbobd421]

Love the flat hooks. I use them a lot. I noticed you had on different apparel at end of video. I’m going to try the end tail knot trick looks like someone tying a tie. I bet it’ll work on my curtainside. Where you get those black corner protectors. Thanks.

[@jamesscott2773]

Excellent video. I use the straps but after seeing this, it will make tie downs a whole lot more simpler. Thank You

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Awesome, glad to hear it!

[@doseven]

I fold the extra strap like you do, but I leave about 3 feet on the tag end, wrap it around the bundle like you did for the zip tie and then tie a clove hitch with the strap then tuck the remaining 6 inches through the hole in the bundle you tied down. Works well and you don't need extra parts.

[@bc52322]

You got your clock fixed noise wise ❗😏😎

[@tebger]

I recently saw that you can buy stake pocket D rings. Drop them in your pocket, insert a pin and you have a D ring anchor. Great idea if you the pockets.

[@mitchellgourley3653]

I like your video I learned a lot you did a great job

[@davidcarleton6928]

I used to cross tie. However, it now seems to me that the machine could separate from the trailer in a tip situation. Imagine the trailer tipping on it's side, the top tire is now attached to the lower rail. This may allow the tiedown to loosen and allow the machine to tip off the trailer. I hope my explanation is clear. I like the idea of the tire straps: less chance for wear, easier/quicker to rig. I would apply more fore (on front) or aft (at rear) angle to the strap. Less chance of a roll.

[@tthxpx]

David Carleton This. I would never x tie. Too worried the tractor would tip off on a tight curve.

[@camgere]

6:35 I hated ratchet straps for years as they often wouldn't release. With my solution, at least you'll be able to open that bottle of beer, when your strap jams. If you only use ratchet straps 2 or 3 times a year, it is easy to forget how they work. There is an axle with a slot in it for the strap that has cogs on the left and right sides. There is a spring-loaded stop for the cogs on BOTH sides of the axle. The cogs easily allow the web strap to tighten, but not loosen. ONE. You have to open the V all the way flat by pulling up on the release. Any angle less than 180 degrees won't allow the strap to release. This releases both the stops and allows the cogs to rotate in the loosen direction. What if the bid wad of strap is jammed in there? TWO. Take a Harbor Freight bottle cap opener and use it as a straight slot screwdriver to rotate the axle. This will loosen the wadded-up straps. Practice this once or twice as a test and you will see how it works. Then you will be in good shape the next time your ratchet straps jam. Or at least you can open that beer!

[@michaelgrady3319]

It is preferable to Angela all the tie downs at a 45 degree angle in the 4 corners of the machine. I always view the load shifting forward under emergency breaking. The situation you have the least control over. Also the connectic energy associated with abrupt breaking is the most significant force on the load.

[@ingeniousmechanic]

"Kinetic energy, but yes.

[@t.conner4798]

Excellent video, thank you.

[@nvlvdave]

I know this is relating to tractors and heavy equipment, which I have no real experience with (yet), but I DO have a lot of experience hauling quads, buggies, bikes and side by sides. Besides the size and weight differences, a MAJOR difference is the suspension of the vehicle being hauled. I really like the lasso strap in that you are not pulling against the suspension, compressing the springs, which is bad. Also, when you hit a big bump, the suspension can compress more, popping the strap off. I'm going to be hauling my Grand Cherokee from Vegas to Ohio on my 12K deckover and am trying to decide how best to strap it down. Do you have much experience with the lasso straps yet? What are your thoughts?

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Yes, I still really like them. Depends on the situation if I use them or not, but still use them on a regular basis.

[@nvlvdave]

@@GoodWorksTractors Thanks for the reply and the info.