Workhorse P32 Brakes - Video #3 - Rear Rotor Replacement

This is video #3 in a 5 part series I’m doing over Workhorse P32 Chassis brakes. The RV I’m working on is a 2003 Safari Trek 2810. In this video, I’m going to show you how to save some money by replacing a warped rear rotor yourself.
Tools Needed:
Ratchet with 5/8 socket
Flat blade screwdriver
Small hammer
2lb. sledge hammer
large flat end punch : amzn.to/3eDWMQp
Dial indicator with magnetic base: amzn.to/3vXCK9h
Castle Socket - Carlyle #2270
100 lb torque wrench - amzn.to/3tH2fKt
Part Numbers Used:
Rear Brake Rotor - Napa #488649
Oil Seal - Napa #31870
Castle Socket - Napa #2770

[@garyn6747]

Thank you so much for this video. I am in the process of redoing my brakes and even though I have a factory Workhorse manual for the P32 chassis it does show the stud removal. And thanks for listing the part numbers.

[@krisjcleveland]

Very easy to follow you and appreciate the clear and concise directions of your videos. Thank you again for taking the time to make these videos.

[@ufixit]

Thank you for the feedback.

[@kennyrodg]

Hi from the UK....Many thanks for this P32 series....It's helped me out a bunch with my 94 Southwind. Much appreciated.

[@MNDashcam]

Exactly the video I was looking for. Thanks!

[@robthompson343]

Outstanding video, thank you. Do you know if the workhorse W24 chassis is real similar to yours? I have a 2005. I’m not having any issues but would like to pull wheels and inspect the brakes. Thank you

[@lindanadaud9698]

Great video, thanks.

[@ufixit]

Thank you for the complement. Hope it helped.

[@paulneuman8559]

Great video. Thanks for the info. My P32 had a different axel nut?? It was a one piece ratching type. Any info on that type?

[@kenjohnson3412]

Good job! A slide hammer is usually the best for removing old oil seals. A couple of the segment on this video had volume that was too low for my old computer.

[@ufixit]

Yes sir. I forgot to turn my mic on a couple times and had to insert a voiceover in those parts. I didn’t get the volume just right. Sorry. Thank you for the feedback.

[@jeffwasser6668]

Your videos have been soooo great. Thank you for putting part numbers and torque specs for rear bearings. I have the same frame and has been incredibly helpful to get the correct part. I’m repacking the bearings and put new rotors on the front. Could you tell me what the proper torque of the nut and bearings please? Thanks again for all the helpful videos

[@ufixit]

Thank you for the feedback. I did my front bearings a while back. I didn’t use a torque wrench on them but they are similar. You want to tighten them enough to seat the bearings as you spin the rotor. Then back it off completely and then tighten it to what I’d call lightly snug. It will be the first notch after it snugs down. You definitely don’t want them loose.

[@KenCassorla]

Great video, glad I found (and subscribed to your channel). I drive a 1994 Flair on the P 30 chassis. Will your instructions apply to this chassis as well? How did you tilt your rig by 6 inches to allow the oil to flow? Finally, I could not find the first video of the series regarding lifting the RV safely? Would you have a link to it? Thanks much.

[@ufixit]

Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with the P30. I suspect it is very similar. I had the entire rear lifted using the levelers and then sitting on jack stands. To lower the axle, I had the tires on the other side. I lifted the rv with the levelers just enough to remove the jack stand from the side with the tires on. I put the other jack stand under the frame and lowered it a bit. Then I sat it down so that the tires compressed the suspension on their side and the other without tires hung down with the frame sitting on the jack stand. Let it sit a few minutes then lifted it back up and put the tires on. The video for how to lift using your levelers is coming. Got busy and didn’t get it edited.

[@jamesbicknell3470]

Love your videos on p32 chassis. One thing that would really help is to say what specialty tools you are using. The spanner nut on the rear axle bearing is a special tool I will need to get. Thanks again

[@ufixit]

Thank you for the complements. I will put that information in the description tomorrow evening.

[@user-ud5ec6wh1m]

Hi. Great job. My 1999 p32 is permanently having some issues with the rear bearings and races. I guess my shop is using the wrong ones. What are the part numbers you have in there. My shop sold me these: outer TIMKEN395CS TIMKEN394CS, inner TIMKEN382 and 387A. But I have rear disc breaks and 387A seems to fit for drum breaks. Thanks.

[@ufixit]

I’ll have to research that some. I didn’t have to replace my bearings. I reused the old ones. You should be able to find the model number on the axle (on the pumpkin). From there, you should be able to look up what bearings it takes.

[@corvettedoc1]

Is this relevant torque to the spicer style nut too I am having trouble finding it for my 99 workhorse p32 chassis under my 2000 Damon Daybreak 3270

[@ufixit]

I'm not sure. I suspect it would work without issue but it would be best to verify with a Dana manual. It took a lot of searching but I finally found a maintenance manual online for my axle.

[@joseosanchez3217]

Hi thank you for these videos, very informative and saved me thousands. I am planning to change the brake fluid but I could not find your video on the bleeding, is the bleeding the same as in any car or is there a special process or tool needed like to cycle the ABS for example? Thank you

[@ufixit]

I tried every system out there including the vacuum systems. In the end, the best thing I found was the one way check valves that replace the stock bleeder screws. I bought them on Amazon. I don’t have the link anymore. Best wishes on your project.

[@markh6137]

Excellent info, do you have the inner bearing part number for the P32 Workhorse same as in the video?

[@ufixit]

I'm sorry, no. I didn't replace mine.

[@littleredcar705]

Many thanks for a great video, do you know if this is the same for a P30 workhorse chassis, I'm in the UK, I have a 2002 Georgie Boy, I think Its a P30 chassis, also do you have a size for the castle socket and the number of teeth, I need to try to source one in the UK. Thanks again for taking the time to make these videos, great help to people like me :)

[@homesold]

Where did you locate the hub specs for your P32? *I’m working on P42 w/ Dana 80, but unable to locate any diff specs

[@justinhansen1712]

Nice video, I'm working on a 96 f53, have Been hunting for specs on torque, with no real luck.Other than the style of rotors it looks identical. Any other specs in that manual you found? Thank you

[@ufixit]

I had to look up my axle and cross reference a maintenance manual for it. I found it online but don't have it bookmarked.

[@dominiquebertrand6152]

This video is just perfect! can you do a video doing the front wheels? And how to adjust the ABS sensor.

[@ufixit]

I’ll be down there next week doing some front suspension work. Provided I don’t run into a major problem with that, I should have time to do something quick on the ABS system.

[@dominiquebertrand6152]

@@ufixit That it will be fantastic thank you, when I remove the wheel I got stuck on the sensor just be careful I believe i damaged my sensor I'm not sure, the biggest problem that I have it is the installation, it is a procedure to adjust it and I have no idea how to do it, thanks a lot!

[@byronewhite]

I have done all but turn rotors on my rear axle. (Workhorse P32) My one problem is that it seems from time to time the right rear will act like the brake pad is loose and slapping something. You can press the brake slightly and it goes away. I noticed that the outside brake pad does not fit real tight but in trying to hammer down the tangs to make them fit tighter it broke the pad and had to buy another set of pads. Thinking of cleaning them off and using brake quiet to try and secure them better. Other than turning rotor what does this sound like to you?

[@ufixit]

I think you are on the right track. It sounds like the pads rattling. Does it do it when you hit a pot hole? You can "stake" them in by hammering the ears a bit to create a tighter fit. You have to be careful though because that inner pad floats between the rotor and the caliper. It needs to be able to move some. I don't know of anything about the rotor that would make a slapping noise. Hope this helps. If you locate the case, please report back.

[@byronewhite]

@@ufixit I think it is a warped rotor. I got a gauge like you did and it was waaaay out. New rotor on the way. It seems the inner pad is the problem.

[@byronewhite]

Just my luck. Took my 2004 P32 axle out and the lock nut is a ratchetting lock nut. Ever see one of them. I think it preloads at 50 ft lbs and then release and snug up to zero lbs. Any information would be appreciated. Have nice day.

[@mikerosenberger1631]

when i try hammering my studs back into the hub mine do not want to go back in at all. any ideas? o get them to go in at all i hammer them for a very long time

[@ufixit]

I had a couple that were partially stubborn. I just kept whacking at them and they eventually snugged up.

[@dominiquebertrand6152]

I can't find NAPA part numbers I guess I'm going to need your help! ty

[@ufixit]

Check the numbers in the description. I think I fat fingered them when I put them on the video. Sorry.

[@fyreantz2555]

Dude...where'd you learn all this stuff? Utter kewlness...

[@glenncoc0664]

My axle shaft wont pull off any tips

[@byronewhite]

They are called Rear Spindle Nut Set with Ratchet Style Spindle Nuts

[@markh6137]

Another nice clip. What is the part number for the rear rotor?

[@ufixit]

I think I put it in the notes on the video. Let me go look.

[@AenesidemusOZ]

Again, thank you! As a workhorse chassis owner in Australia, I get to learn a lot of DIY stuff as professional mechanics see me coming down the road and double their prices before I walk in the door. 🤣😢 A question, if I may? You talked about doing a video on bleeding the brake system; is that still happening? I need to replace my brake fluid and I suspect it will be more complicated than my Nissan Patrol …

[@ufixit]

Hello. I'm glad you found the videos helpful. I shot a video of the brake bleeding but wasn't happy with the results so I didn't post it. I tried the old foot pump method, a hand held vacuum bleeder, and a power bleeder. I never could get the firm pedal I was looking for. Finally, I bought some speed bleeders ( amzn.to/3yglvTm ). They were worth every penny. They made the job super easy and got all the air out.

[@mikerosenberger1631]

are there abs sensors in the rear or just the front?

[@ufixit]

Just the front.

[@saltysoulcreations8537]

Am I missing something or do you not show replacement of front rotors?

[@thomashenning8325]

Same as p30 rear?

[@garyn6747]

Regarding the torque settings for the retaining nuts, my factory Workhorse Cassis manual lists 68 N-m (50 Ft lbs) not 70 ft lbs, then back it off and torque it to 35 ft. lbs.

[@ufixit]

Thanks for the information. I got the specs I used from the Dana service manual. It could be that they have changed their specs since Workhorse went out of business.

[@tyronetrump1612]

You are supposed to back it off a 1/4 turn after the 35 lbs/ft - you want .001 -.010" play.

[@mikerosenberger1631]

i am having a very difficult time finding the replacement rotor,hub and calipers for the front of my p32. any recommendations on how to locate the correct replacement parts?

[@ufixit]

Take your vin number to Napa. If the parts guy is experienced, he should be able to locate what you need.

[@gringochoppers]

Yeah I'm next..I'll be completely rebuilding my front-end..I have a 99 Workhorse P32 Chassis...Workhorse should have printed out a build sheet with the parts used and the part numbers for each part..this is my first motorhome and it's a pain in the ass to find parts.

[@gringochoppers]

I see you left your comment 9 months ago..so do you have any part numbers for the Rotors and Brakes

[@mikerosenberger1631]

im good now. i went to omeys website, he has a section for the p32 parts

[@tyronetrump1612]

Rock Auto - stick with GM, Raybestos or Centric brands . NAPA stuff has been going to the shitter for quality lately and they are overpriced.

[@duckthis17]

I cannot find Video #1 and #5. Am I missing something ? Excellent video's by the way.

[@ufixit]

Sorry. I got busy and didn’t get around to editing and posting them. They are coming soon.

[@MNDashcam]

Correct rotor part number has a 3 on the end.

[@DoggerDon111]

Awesome work and commentary thats obviously a Dooley rite ?

[@ufixit]

Yes. Dual rear.

[@joeridge3650]

Torque spec on the axle bolts

[@ufixit]

I forgot that didn’t I. Sorry. Honestly I didn’t use a torque wrench on them. Just snugged them up good.

[@jamesbicknell3470]

My bad on that prior comment. You showed the Napa part number at the bottom! So for others pay attention to the text at the bottom as you watch

[@ufixit]

You are absolutely correct. I need to list them in the description also. I plan to remedy that tomorrow evening. Thanks for watching and for the comments.

[@tyronetrump1612]

I know this is 2 years old but I think you may be misreading your torque procedure wrong. All of our Danas have taper bearings and they are never final torqued. The GM manual calls for 50 lb/ft preload, back off loose then 35 lb/ft then back off 1/4 turn. the lock nut gets 66 lb/ft You want .001 - .010" play on the hub. The Rockwell 12" is the only one that gets a final preload on the bearings as they are barrel style bearings - gets 50 then back off an 1/8th turn with 250 lb/ft on the lock nut

[@cheo196567]

sir can you sell me that tool that you made.

[@byronewhite]

Did not see the torque for the axle cover nuts

[@byronewhite]

caution! Don't buy from rock auto. The right part number with the correct picture came in as a drum instead of a rotor for the rear and they have no way of helping you. Stuck for 2 freights now. coming and going. Now I know why the price was so good

[@tyronetrump1612]

you gotta be REAL careful with their verbiage as there is what seems like 6000 different combos - at the end of the day you need to look for your brake package code. the JF9 is 4 wheel disc independent front suspension, JB5 is 11" drum rear, JB7 is vacuum boost, front disc w 13" rear drum, JB8 hydroboost front disc/ rear drum and even more codes for single and dual rear wheels and I beam front suspension.

[@pauljanssen7594]

It hurts when I see people trying to do repair and do videos one thing is this never beat the studs out with a hammer especially on their under size hammer you supposed to use a drift or a what they call ball peeing hammer and a bigger Hammer to keep from damaging the studs

[@ufixit]

Hi Paul. I see you have zero videos on your channel. Could you please post ONE showing the armature mechanics like myself how professionals like you do it? Or maybe, you would like to watch some of my other videos so you can fix your RV?