WORKHORSE P32 BRAKES - Video #4 - Hydroboost Upgrade

This is video #4 in a 5 video series that covers maintaining and improving the brake system on a Workhorse P32 Chassis. The RV used is a 2003 Monaco Safari Trek 2810. In this video, I show how I upgraded my old hydrobooster to a factory new, AC Delco Booster for a 2021 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Turbo Diesel.
Booster Part Number: AC DELCO 84609220 (Ordered from Rock Auto)

[@sebastiant5695]

1000 Miles later with the new ACDelco 178-1036 Hydroboost: This is really the best brake upgrade for the P30 - it is sooo much easier to get the large RV to stop. It's actually on almost effortless side, braking doesn't feel like a large vehicle anymore. I actually have to brake careful since all the stuff in the cabinets comes rushing forward. It's easy to control after you get used to the higher boost level, so no worries about tires locking up. At this point I can absolutely recommend researching if this upgrade is suitable for any P30 P32. The new ACDelco part is a new, improved - and not remanufactured and is designed to stop a much larger and heavier vehicle. The install is straight forward - only minimal adaption work required: 1. Sleeve for the rod 2. drilling the bracket holes a bit large so that it can sit 1/4 inch lower

[@ufixit]

Great testimonial! Thank you. I’m at 5,000 miles. I replaced the booster, master cylinder, pads, and flex lines. I thought my calipers were still good. I still wasn’t happy with breaking force. I broke down and replaced all 4 calipers. WOW!! What a difference. If the booster doesn’t completely fix your issues, you may have another defective part(s) in the system. Happy / safe travels. Best wishes.

[@marteck319]

The push rod removal and re-reinstall without damage is genius. Thank you very very much just the video I was looking for. I am rebuilding a hydroboost there are two lip seals on the shaft that you can’t replace unless you remove the push rod so you can then slide the shaft out.

[@jean-denislavoie1257]

Thanks man for the trick for the staked pedal rod.

[@souliog]

Thank you for the guide!!! What a major improvement in stopping power in my 2002 p32. 1. You can cut the side shield off and make a ton of room. Bolt back together. 2. Leave master cylinder and lines intact. Zip tie and set aside. 3. Air chisel spins the big nut on/off easily.

[@ufixit]

All great tips. Leaving the MC in place would save a ton of time and headache having to bleed the brakes. I'm glad it worked for you and improved your brakes.

[@SparksNboat]

Don't cut it. Take the time with patience to unbolt it from underneath. And definitely don't rip up the floor!!

[@robfranke1]

Fantastic video! Thanks for doing it and passing it on..my 04 p32 27 ft brakes got Hard pedal..lost assist..I looked from underneath and it's mounted just like yours..looked fun😂. You just saved me time in figuring the best way to get it out! Thanks again for the UPGRADE!!!

[@SparksNboat]

I started working on this upgrade. 1997 Fleetwood South Wind Storm. Same workhorse P33 chassis. Took the inner wheel well plate out for access. Then pulled the hydro boost. 3.5 hours to do that. Fabricated the tool. Sure wish you had told what size bolts. I tried 1/4" all thread. Used 1/4" flat stock. FAILED. Both the all thread and the 1/4" plates bent. So far unable to remove the old rod. Not trying the new one till the old one is out. Going to redrill and go up a size on the all thread. Possibly use double 1/4" plates on each side. I'll try to revert after this is attempted. Read the reply for the solution!

[@SparksNboat]

Ended up starting over with the tool fabrication. I suggest using 1/4" by 2" wide plate steel which I found at Home Depot. ( I was able to do it with 1 1/2" wide but it bent and had to be turned over so use the 2" wide.) 1/2" allthread works perfect. Job completed but even with changing the longer rods into the new hydroboost, the pedal arm doesn't hit the brake light switch. I will work on that today Lord willing. Either the switch will adjust or I have an easy fix in mind. I'll revert with another post with the results.

[@creepycrawler43]

Thank you so much for sharing this that homemade tool was exactly what I was looking for

[@aaronpadilla458]

Very useful nformation in this video, however about the part of removing and re-staking the input rod, I am not very comftable, I am trying the upgrade soon but I will go for the threading solution, you can cut the original input rod and run a 3/8-24 die on it, then you can get a input rod kit or cut and thread the old input rod, then put it together with a long nut. Be aware that the staked part is NOT an aluminum sleeve as claimed in this video, it is steel and the staking is very solid, back in time I pulled out an input rod using an equivalent setup and the pull-out effort was so big that the input rod ring became out of round

[@ufixit]

Great idea on how to solve the input rod issue. The sleeve on mine was most definitely aluminum. The tool I showed pulled the rod out effortlessly. Your way sounds easier than making the tool to pull the rod. It should work equally well.

[@tyronetrump1612]

I know this is several years later but for the next time you have to replace the booster use 178-1036 or the 178-1040 are the part numbers you want to use so you do not have to dick around with the push rod. Here are some tips for anyone getting ready to do this awesome upgrade .... The 178-1040 is much cheaper than the 1036 btw, buy new GM and do not mess with remans unless you want to do this twice- the majority of them end up leaking The pushrod eye is slightly larger than the old one - just take some roof flashing and roll it around the bolt shoulder one turn or make a bushing if you have a lathe. Tie up the master cylinder to the frame and unbolt it from the HB - saves a couple hours not having to bleed the brakes. Back out the stud threads , that will give you some working room removing the HB mess- remember they are reverse thread . Most p30 fwd control chassis have an adjustable end on the big long vertical rod connects to the HB bell crank - I turned mine in 1.5 turns and kept my pedal height and didn't have to mess with the brake switch adjustment if you do not have this just leave it be and readjust your brake switch, the pedal height change is minimal and not worth the headache of changing that pushrod, Buy a cheap transmission cooler and plumb it in the steering return hose- don't worry about the HB circuit as it is not moving fluid until the brakes are pressed... the PS is the big heat generator. Fluid - Any TES-295 fluid is going to fare better than inferior GM or any power steering fluid in hot ambient temperatures - Mobil 1 Delvac,, Castrol transynd, Royal Purple Max-EZ will not boil over. I hardly hear the "shhhh" or any pump whine when turning with the TES fluid. Put new rotors and calipers along with this HB and you better secure shit in your cabin... half my bedroom ended up near the cockpit during road tests !

[@MrPenguinLife]

I used the same 178-1040, in my case I used some thin wall brass hobby tubing to make a bushing K&S 3402 Round Brass Telescopic Tubing (this is a variety pack, I think I used the 19/32 OD size, this was a perfect fit, tight enough I had to clean up the bolt with fine sand paper and use some oil lube to get it on the shaft) and cut off a short section with a Dremel cut off wheel and sanded it down to length. The linkage is slightly shorter than factory, but within he adjustment range for the brake stop and cruise control switches on the pedal bracket. On the topic of replacing the master cylinder, I am glad I changed mine after finding a lot of grit and corrosion inside.

[@tyronetrump1612]

@@MrPenguinLife I replaced my master cylinder last year before going mountain climbing so the fluid and master was good so I just diverced the MC from the HB. Knowing this rig was gonna see a lot of NC area mountain back roads less traveled I flushed the fluid and used Pentosin super DOT 4 I am only 13k pounds on an older 1986 Monitor/HRC with an 8.1 shoved in it so it does great stopping and going

[@lynnhtaylor]

Thanks for this video. It gave me the info I needed to change out the hydroboost on my 1996 Fleetwood Storm. The old unit had locked up. The upgrade vastly improved the brakes. Thanks again.

[@urshort6979]

Great video. I'll add my two cents. Everyone should take a good video of how everything looks before you begin. I had to reference my video a lot of times to see how things went back together and what bolts went where. Also, I bought a used part from a junkyard. Got it for about 1/3 of the price of a new one, and since it was off a truck with less than 10,000 miles, it's like new. The video doesn't address how to get the star thingy that holds the rod out of the old one. I used a pick and angled the star clip. Not exactly easy, but I eventually figured it out. Another tip is to buy a cheap kit to bench-bleed your master cylinder before reinstalling it. If you do it right, you get hardly any air in the brakes. I was able to install and drive without bleeding any air at my calipers. Be sure to leave everything loose while reinstalling it...makes getting the bolts in easier, and helps get everything back the way it was before you started. Finally (and my hardest lesson) is not to bolt up the master cylinder when you're reattaching the brake lines to the master cylinder. You need to be able to move that master cylinder around to get the hard lines lined back up and getting those pesky nuts started into the master cylinder. Great video....glad you made it. Sure saved me a load of money, and now my brakes work better than ever. By the way, any particular power steering fluid for these old Workhorses? I used some German GM power steering fluid....it's green. Never seen anything like it before, but the bottle says it's for all sorts of GM products, including Saabs, Cadillacs, and a bunch of cars I don't recognize. Thanks again for the video. - Tom

[@rarefruit2320]

Excellent advice

[@MrPenguinLife]

I just completed a Hyroboost and Master Cylinder swap on my 2002 P32 chassis coach, I used the 178-1040 Hyrobooster which does not require the front rod to be pulled. However the supplied rod is a fraction of an inch shorter than the original, which means the brake / cruise control switches must be slightly adjusted, also the eyelet hole is slightly larger than the original, I was able to shim it with a short piece of brass thin wall hobby tubing from a K&S 3402 tubing set which was $8 on amazon (I think I used the 19/32 OD .014 tubing). Otherwise I followed the directions on this video, swapping studs, output shaft, etc. I also found using swivel head ratcheting wrenches along with an assortment of metric box and open ended wrenches made the job a lot easier. My suggestion is to have a variety of 13-18 mm wrenches on hand, including 15, 16, and 18 flare wrenches for the lines. Also when reassembling leave the Hyrdoboost mounting nuts loose until you get the mounting bracket between the hydroboost and master cylinder back in place.

[@CRXSLY]

i upgrade my old hydroboost in my C10 truck for un newer late GM model and i was wondering how can i swap the pedal rod to keep my oem travel ....your tip for a home made tool help me a lot!! thx ;o)

[@ufixit]

I got the idea for doing this from the Duramax forums where guys were upgrading their 2003 - 20010 trucks with 2012 boosters. I bet it will work for you also. Please report back.

[@JSCB-365]

I wasn't intentionally trying to upgrade. Just happened to have a newer truck laying around for parts. And the first thing I noticed is the pedal pushrod is shorter.

[@Daveinet]

I'm surprised you had to do that much messing around to get the hydroboost filled back up. I've gone through several steering gear boxes. Crank the wheel back and forth a few times till it quit making noise and it was fine. Not sure what your pump is like, but mine had a tank above the pump, so maybe that is why it was more forgiving.

[@SparksNboat]

Absolutely easy with mine. Filled the reservoir and a few pumps of the pedal and turns of the wheel and it is bled.

[@t.bowman3151]

This was a great help. I did this on a 1998 National Dolphin RV with a 1998 Chevy P32 Chassis with a 8.2L Vortec

[@martysheets6882]

Nice how to Brother, I'm installing hydro in a classic car the push rod was the biggest question. Thanks Marty.

[@robfranke1]

Great video..had to save it to make my tool..double nutted to slot plate instead of welding..used 5/16 drill bit to hog out th slots..end drilled and carbide bit th center...hell it took longer to make th tool than I think changing the unit..lol..probably not 😂 thanks again for th upgrade video. Note..it's not for everyone to do. I'm a retired mechanic so I had th stuff to do it😊

[@jimmcdowell7763]

Been meaning to do this mod for some time and finally completed it today. Totally worth the effort. Thanks for coming up with a solution to the biggest shortfall of the p32 chassis…..pathetic brakes. Based on your comments I’m tempted to buy some calipers as well. Did you get reman or new? Do you happen to have a part number? Thanks again, you did all of us a huge favor.

[@jamescoleman7814]

Watched your video, will this upgrade work on my 1983 Airstream 310 Classic. Mine has the same booster that you took off and was wanting to upgrade mine if this will work, already changed the ball joints, rotors, calipers, brake lines, bell cranks, and shocks and would like to upgrade my brakes for better stopping. Please let me know what you think.

[@gmaciel046]

muito bom irmao;so vc mostrou a ferramenta pra sacar a vareta.muito necessario pra trocar o reparo,qdo vaza pra dentro da cabine.

[@sebastiant5695]

I was able to fit the ACDelco 178-1036. It's an almost bolt in replacement. There are two differences 1. The push rod hole is about 1mm 1/16 too large for the bolt on the P30 - I've just wrapped a few layers of metal flashing around the bolt to make it a flush sit 2. the rod is slightly shorter. Which means that the brake pedal sits a tad lower - (adjusting the brake light switch - disconnect the cables and screw it inwards) . Otherwise - on my 2003 not even the push rod for the brake master cylinder needs to come out - has the same exact length. The first test drive around the block was a great success - the brakes feel much better - stuff was flying forward :P will tidy up inside, test drive the next days more extensively and follow up.

[@ufixit]

Thats great information. It will sure make it easier if the rod doesn't have to be switched over. Thank you for sharing.

[@sebastiant5695]

@@ufixit Thank you for making this video, otherwise I would have never searched.

[@sebastiant5695]

@@ufixit brake feeling is so much better now. Much less effort, but still easy to control.

[@manuelanaya5763]

chingon carnal..gracias

[@donlaporte3679]

Awesome videos and the swap and upgrade is amazing! Feels like I'm using less than HALF of the brake pedal pressure than before the mod.

[@ufixit]

Thats great to feedback. I am super proud of this mod. I have learned a ton from others on KZbin and various forums over the years. I'm so glad to be able to pay that back. In researching before making the videos, I read hundreds of posts where people were looking for a way to make their P-series brakes better. I didn't find one single solution. I got the idea to upgrade the booster from the Duramax truck crowd. As far as I know, I'm the first to pionier this mod for RV's. Thank you for watching and for provinding feedback that the mod worked for you. Drive safe.

[@phantomwalker8251]

@@ufixit 2 slotted plates,1 top of alloy,then 2 nuts,then slotted plate under ''u''.

[@marianofalcon5610]

Oh man thanks I was looking find how to remove the push rod I'm doing this tomorrow thanks for the wisdom

[@ufixit]

I think you will be happy with the results. If your brakes are still soft, consider replacing your calipers. I thought mine were good but after replacing everything else, I finally broke down and replaced all 4. It was an immediate and dramatic difference. Firm pedal and stops great.

[@user-rp1do1rs2w]

Have any info on how to remove the little clip to change the push rod out??

[@JamieTransNyc]

For that "Troublesome Nut" during re-installation, instead of installing a bolt and nut, could you install a Clevis Pin instead (Or make one by drilling through the appropriate bolt). Then the next time, all you need do is remove the pin.

[@ufixit]

I'm not sure but it sounds like it could work. Best wishes.

[@cheo196567]

hello,I have 2001 workhorse p32 gas I need a booster I can find one I have padas on front and shoes rears

[@kevindelamonico8808]

Video was a great help. Could not get the pin fork out of the new one so I just removed the torque bolts out and took the back end off the new one and the bacn off the old one and swapped them and it works great...

[@sebastiant5695]

so you separated the hydro boost half way? Just wondering when you already do that if you could leave the front part installed? Would be far less work just taking half of the hydroboost and and the master brake cylinder out.

[@joemcsweeny7392]

This is a great video. Getting reman hydro boost is expensive and they don't last. So here's our question: How did you find the AC Delco Hydro unit to begin with? We're running three Workhorse W42 chassis and we either get them rebuilt or we go to a Workhorse supplier and get bent over -- because it's Workhorse. Thus far we're going the reman route but would love to go your route. It's just that there are so darned many hydro boost units, we don't know quite how to start with finding a comparable unit from which to start doing measurements.

[@ufixit]

I ordered a new OEM unit for a 2021 Chevrolet 3500 Diesel from Rock Auto. $190 I think. If you go to a site called trektrax, there is a whole long thread dedicated to this improvement. Quite a few others have done it with great results. Below is a link to the rock auto part. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11093912&cc=3447306&pt=1884&jsn=478

[@tufftrails]

Great series, I have the 30PDD and the brakes just seem to be to soft or spongy. Want to pull a toad but I worry I do not have the stopping power. Would like to see part 1 and part 5 when you post them. Big help...thank you.

[@ufixit]

Absolutely!!! Check your wheel calipers. I thought mine were good but even after replacing everything else and bleeding the system umpteen times, my pedal was spongy and brakes not so good. I replaced all 4 calipers and BAM!!!! Hard pedal and will stop on a dime.

[@tufftrails]

@@ufixit Previous owner had paperwork with receipts for brake master cylinder replacement. Said brakes failed while towing a jeep in Colorado. I bet they got the brakes so hot that the Brake fluid boiled. I would think if brakes got that hot, the rotors probably glazed and the caliper seals probably lost much of their integrity as well. Thank you so much for replying to my reply.

[@tufftrails]

...4 months later...and you were absolutely correct. 4 new calipers and my RV is stopping on a dime. Huge huge difference. Thanks so much for the advice and the "how-to- do- it" vids.

[@cheo196567]

Thank you sir

[@michaelrowbottom8868]

what was the part number for the Master Cyl was it a workhorse or GM

[@MrPenguinLife]

I used an AC Delco 18M949 priced at $105 on Amazon ($10 less than I paid last year), this appears to be an exact match to the original 2002 Workhorse branded part, with the possible exception of as finished surface texture.

[@dennisgardiner43]

Thank you for this video. Our 1995 P32 (4 wheel disk brake coach) uses the same hydro boost as your 2003. our hydro boost works just fine but is slowly weeping power steering fluid. Your solution eliminates the rebuild waiting period, and (I assume) either increases braking performance or reduces pedal effort. How do your brakes feel now?

[@ufixit]

My brakes were bad to the point of being dangerous before this rebuild. I replaced the booster, master cylinder, all flex hoses, pads, and one rotor. I also cleaned and greased the slides. All that combined made a night and day difference. I can't say for sure what % the booster accounts for. Currently the force required to depress my pedal and get strong brake engagement is greatly reduced. The pedal actually feels kind of soft but brake engagement is strong. I think the larger piston in the new booster does provide a gain in force to the master cylinder. Performance aside, the primary advantage is availability, price, and a factory new part. I researched this extensively before making the swap. I read a lot of horror stories from people who had to change out their booster multiple times because the rebuilt units leaked immediately or very soon after being installed. Best wishes with your project.

[@IanRumbles]

@@ufixit how wide are the slots in the tool you created to pull out the push rod. Excellent video

[@billneill455]

super great info

[@roypurganan5839]

I llost my original plunger on my hydro boost do you know where I can get one

[@ufixit]

Oh no! There is a generic kit you can order and cut to length. You would need to know the length of the old rod. Unfortunately, I don’t have that measurement. The RV forums are usually helpful. Try Trektrax. There are a lot of guys there that have Workhorse chassis and have don this mod

[@vegastyle84]

The issue I’m having is when I’m coming to a stop it feels like the ABS is turning on just before I come to a complete stop. Every time. Probably right around 10 mph till I stop. Ever heard of this?

[@ufixit]

I've never experienced that. I'd suspect the ABS system, warped rotor, or bad wheel bearing in that order. Hope you are able to diagnose it. Safe travels.

[@sebastiant5695]

Great Video! Have you thought about switching to one of the new screw cap style Master Brake Cylinders? I figured out that the Chevy Express Dually models have similar parts/weights to the Workhorse Chassis. (up to 2006)

[@ufixit]

I think the deciding factor with the master cylinder would be the diameter of the piston. If the new one isn't the same as the original, it will affect the brake travel and pedal pressure necessary. I'm not saying that it can't be done or that it wouldn't improve things. A lot of measurements and testing would be needed to be sure its safe.

[@LTDan-pk3mx]

Fantastic! I have an 85 chevy C30 dually 2WD 1st gen cummins 5 speed.. I need to do this so Thank you! What are the thread sizes? Mine are metric M18 and M16.. Im hoping they are the same as mine!! Thanks again bud! Rock auto sent me one with i believe sae thread.. none the less its a CARDONE 527307 Remanufactured no workie..

[@ufixit]

I'm sorry. It's been a while since I did this mod. I don't have the old booster anymore to check.

[@mthedude4395]

Wow Impressive!

[@ufixit]

Thank you for the feedback.

[@LTDan-pk3mx]

Hey guy, I did Subscribe so can you tell me the inlet and outlet thread size? Metric or SAE?

[@ufixit]

I appreciate the subscription. I'm not sure the sizes. It's pretty universal thought so if you can find one to look at, your's should be the same.

[@dominiquebertrand6152]

Can you please send me the link for your video number one, just can't find it, thank you.

[@jaydaniel3841]

Great videos. Can you send me the link to number 5 in the series? I can't find it.

[@ufixit]

My apologies. I’m working on getting that one edited and posted.

[@dmotion82]

Very informative videos. Can you send me the link to number 5 in the series? Thank you.

[@ufixit]

Yes. I had some difficulty with bleeding the lines and didn't want to put something up till I was confident in the process. I haven't posted it yet. I will tell you that I found the after market speed bleeder nipples to be the absolute best way to bleed the system.

[@bearrinehart6634]

Can you provide a link to the tool to remove the nut for the mounting bracket, please? I order the new booster and MC!

[@ufixit]

There are several available from various sources. I’m not sure of a part number but if you Google hydroboost nut socket, you will get several hits.

[@2dogsnight]

I would love to get newer hydroboost for my 2000 Trek 2480.......but how do I know what to replace it with??

[@ufixit]

If you are willing swap over the necessary parts you can use the same one I did. Booster Part Number: AC DELCO 84609220 (Ordered from Rock Auto) . Hope this helps

[@2dogsnight]

@@ufixit based on your KZbin tutorial I am pretty sure I can do that , I was just concerned about the dimensions that need to be the same as the old hydroboost. Thank you !!

[@sebastiant5695]

Do you think ACDelco 178-1036 could fit ? I was looking through the Duramax forums and the LML brake booster rod looks very similar in length to the P32 one.

[@ufixit]

I can’t say for sure without having the exact specs or one in hand to measure. Even a slight change in the length of the rod would change your pedal hight and length of travel. Also, the hole in the end of the rod would need to be the same so there is no slop there. Please let me know if you try it and it works. It would be nice to not need to replace the shaft.

[@sebastiant5695]

@@ufixit I had my hydroboost with a reman unit replace a few months ago and it exploded (the accumulator blew off) a short time later (all powersteering and braking support goes away in an instant) so I'm probably not going down that road anymore. I know that the rod length makes a difference - yet when I had the unit replaced - I noted that with the holes on the bracket you can adjust the position of the brake pedal slightly. Probably depends how far it is off. I'm not concerned about the hole size - when it's to small you can drill it out - when it's to big - you can machine larger bolt, or put a brass sleeve around the existing. I'll keep you posted.

[@SynSys]

Once I got to the part where I had made a tool to extract the pedal rod from the old unit, I realized that IMO this is not a good idea, as GM suggests. The crimp/stake metal that holds the ball end of the rod in, gets 90% ripped out when you extract it. People are then putting in the new rod and using a flat head screw driver to tap in/re-stake in the new rod with those slivers of remaining metal. It's just a bad idea, and a far cry from the original retention strength. If that rod ever did come out, you lose brakes entirely. I switched to cutting clean with a bandsaw and TIG welding instead. I feel this is much safer and easier too, as pulling out the rods can take incredible force, unless we can actually re-crimp them, I think it's best to just leave the factory crimp in place and swap in this manner. You can go to a welding shop to have them do it for you if needed.

[@MrPenguinLife]

I went with the 137-1040 booster so as to avoid having to pull the rod, though I did have to add a shim and adjust the brake switches, having said that, with the way the unit is mounted I see no way the rod could pull out unless something else in the linkage broke first. The only possible way I could think of would be if someone yanked up on the brake pedal faster than the booster could return the pedal, not exactly something I could visualize being likely to happen in the real world.

[@michaelrowbottom8868]

@@MrPenguinLife I can not find a 137-1040 booster is the number incorect

[@user-wf8dx4zy4w]

will this work on a 2001 p30 gas

[@MrPenguinLife]

It should I just did it on my 2002, though I used the 137-1040 hydroboost so I did not have to change the front rod, just had to shim the slightly larger eye with some thin wall hobby tubing.

[@GMOOKIEB44]

can anyone make this tool? I would like to do this conversion but need tool made.

[@ufixit]

Sorry. I don’t make them. Go to the trek message board - trektrax. There is a very extensive thread there detailing this mod and how others have accomplished it.

[@SparksNboat]

Local machine shop?

[@greggkuzara2859]

Great video I have a 2003 2610 trek Do you have a master cylinder replacement. recommendation?

[@MrPenguinLife]

I don't know if you still need the information but I just did the upgrade on my 2002 Trek 2830 and used AC Delco 18M949 master cylinder which was a perfect match

[@greggkuzara2859]

I recently completed the project. Everything works great. Thank you for your help

[@JamieTransNyc]

You look and sound an awful lot like Matt Risinger, are you related?

[@ufixit]

I'm not sure who that is but he must be a good looking guy. :)