Your explanation of 'hybrid tuning' is how I've been managing things for the last few years. Works very smoothly with the multitude of throttle reduction strategies in the background. If I change turbo's or do any other airflow mods, I usually force open-loop during WOT to set the base MAF scaling and hit target AFR's, then reintroduce the WOT closed-loop functionality. Great video as always man

Do most parts cross over with ford part numbers?

Keeping everything in ambient equal, load and boost tuning are very similar or equal. If you have the load reference in your MAP, then 1.0 load is essentially 1BAR MAP (0 boost). Load 2.0 would be 2BAR MAP or 1BAR of boost (BOOST = MAP - BARO). But temperature is a very important parameter to account for, especially when talking summer versus winter, FMIC versus TMIC, DI versus PI+DI, and so on. The only true reason why you'd have to boost tune is when you have a parallel fueling system (PI in our case) and at that point you're basically only relying on the O2 sensor readings to make sure you've got the fueling right. And even in that situation up to the point where you cap the factory DI (by altering the MAF curve to trick the ECU into not spraying more fuel, since you rely on the PI at that point) you're more or less load tuning (and 100% load tuning in closed loop). With load based tunes you basically target a specific mass (NOT FLOW) of air. This will correlate with the amount/mass of fuel you need for that mass of air based on the AFRs you target. With boost based tunes you are targeting air flow or volume and then rely on MAF (and wideband O2) for the fueling, while with load tuning you are targeting air mass (as measured by the MAF and confirmed by the wideband O2 - pretty similar, eh?). The OEM ECU logic provides more means/tables/strategies to properly control load than boost, including per gear, while for the boost you only have to rely on tables that contain strictly limits as values: throttle close and fuel cut overall limits, limits per RPM and per throttle input which is also a general table, not a per gear table, is not correlated with IAT/ECT, and so on. What this means is also that when properly tuning a car to also grip in every gear, the by-gear control of torque is gone (to my knowledge I'm the only one tuning on this platform who properly implemented true boost/load-by-gear tuning, so all other tuners do not seem care, nor do their customers since most of them do straight line pulls anyway). Even on aftermarket ECUs you're basically tuning the fueling based on the estimated/calculated mass of air, not boost. Yes, you are tuning on MAP, but the injector pulse width will have corrections applied based on the IAT/BAT. The mass of air is a function of MAP, temperature and reference density, and depending on the engine RPM you can also calculate the mass of air entering the engine at a specific RPM based on the VE, and then you adjust the fueling based on exactly that, not only on the manifold pressure. The AFR is a proportion of masses, not volumes. Mass means load, boost alone means nothing. So the boost-based tuning on these cars is possible only because we have a MAF sensor ;) Even with PI systems you pretty much load tune even though you're kind of guessing (or enforcing) the boost based on the AFR readings (which is more or less another MAF), so it load-based tuning done backwards :) These are a few counter-arguments of load based tuning against boost-based tuning, at least for mid/big turbo cars which can hit the fueling limits of the factory DI, meaning they have the ability to produce enough torque to spin the wheels in 3rd and even 4th gear. For factory K04 cars... I tune them to 90 or more WGDC anyway... and let them make whatever they can make when they can make it (at least in terms of power, not also torque). Yet regardless of the tuning strategy used, in my opinion is a lot more important to get your fueling, timing and comp/limits tables right so that you can still have what to tune after each spirited drive or track day :)

Nice!

Thanks, enjoyed this type of video. Good thing my tuning with Justin came over the fall-winter phase. ^_^

Thanks for the good learning video.every bit of information helps😊

“Sometimes you dont have to give up, just keep your head up, and keep moving forward” ❤️‍🔥

ive owned my ms3 for a lil over a yr now and your vids were some of the first that ive watched and i still do to this day..i get the whole life happens thing man, keep doin you! looking forward to the upcoming vids!!

I know everyone goes with the act 6 puck but I found out about uniclutch based of Australia might wanna take a look at those and they do have a kit for our cars. Also I'm still having an issue where my boost target is at 27 psi, and set the wastegate correction error so it compensates for under and over boost but it does nothing

My 5th gear is gone and I’d really wish you could make a video about it, like a lot. I’d use that video the whole way 😂

i always see this car when I'm in Mexico

6puck Paired With Prolite Flywheel

A tuning video would be pretty rad. Awesome content!

Most anyone that has experience in this platform will tell you to go act 6puck for budget or a cm750 or cm850. Stay away from the xclutch twin disc stuff. Clutchmasters has been proven over and over again. I personally have a southbend stage 3 endurance. Yes its a stiffer pedal. Holds 30-35psi on my 6062 all day long. I would prob go cm750 or cm850 if i have to buy another clutch in the future, just to get some daily driver pedal feel back. I also switched from a returnless setup to a cs cell this go around. I bought the cell by itself and pieced together fittings and lines along with the pump and filters. Use there instructions to help figure out fittings and lines myself. Running e85 in the cell and my tuner has roughly 16° of timing peak. cant wait for the video on rebuilding the transmission, hope its step by step 👌👌👌

What are the torque specs for the upper oil pan

I would love to learn the basics of tuning with your videos. Got an ms3 with the Cobb AP and a lot of basic bolt ons and paying someone to tune is expensive. I saw your tuning videos and surprised you took them down. But then again I didn’t watch much of them cause I didn’t have a AP. I’m excited now though lol

Great to see you back. Get a 2nd Gen Transmission. The gears are shorter, way better for racing. Also Change the shift fork pads to brass pads to increase longevity.

Bro Xclutch twin disk is very gooooooooooood!! recommenden 100% i got it and it's amaizing!!

Hey brotha you still have your old timing cover? And to make your crank keyed do they need to do a process to do it or do they just cut it at the top dead center

Do yourself the favor and get a full face. Never get a 3,4,6 puck clutch for daily driving, not worth it

Love your content.keep the speed 3 content going.watching your channel for years.love from south africa

Quick tip don’t put oil in the cylinders use transmission fluid it helps promote seating the rings

You mentioned that you have 50,000kms on your clutch. Do you have the same amount of KMs on your new forged engine? Just curious as I have a similar build with 24,000 on it currently (Manley pistons, rods etc). Cheers

Good to see you and that beautiful speed 3. Can't wait to see how you install the brass fork pads because I can't get ahold of any in Colorado. 1 question what's the highest engine temperature have you hit?

Your videos has always usefull information. The way you are going step by step makes it more relatable to a lot of people. I feel you when you say the candian $ hurt Enjoy the process 🚗💥💨🔥

I have the x clutch twin disk and love it! No issues at all!

I always like watching your videos brotha, I just got an gen 1 so now I have gen 1 and 2 I got a build block for the gen 1 check it out brotha and keep up the good work brotha

For the mods you have a factory clutch (+fidanza FW) is well undersized. I have this combo on my CX7 (gen2 2867 + built engine) is it's pretty buzzy as well. On my 3 I have the Southbend Stage3 enduro which is a great clutch, even more predictable than stock, lasts quite long, but it gives you a stiff pedal (this being the only downside really). The ACT 6puck is good but it will wear out quickly. You say now that you have 50k kms on your Fidanza+LUK combo, well, in this case a ACT 6puck will probably start going out at around 35-40k. I'd honestly look at the steel flywheels the guys from Damond Motorsports got custom made for the Action clutches. I would not go twin disk, but now if it was to pick another clutch I'd probably go for maybe a stage2 or 3 from Action Clutch.

yeeeeeaaaa dude, im currently building my 2008, love to see your build is doing well!!

Your channel has been invaluable in helping me realize my dream of owning a speed3. Thank you so much! For future mods (clutches and such) I would say just make sure you enjoy the driving experience. I've heard that super aggressive clutches are just not fun. Can't wait for the in depth transmission content. I'm sure I will need to do the same eventually.

Can’t thank you enough for the content. I’ve used your videos for pretty much everything I’ve done to my car. If you ditch the 6 port, consider me first in line to buy!

Hit up Chris Ward CWturbocharger… He’s in Canada

Hit up cwturbochargers for a new clutch!

Yessss dude!! I got a bnrs4 v5 this year and upgraded to a focus st manifold I like the content you put out and because of the valuable information and your awesome build I went and did the big turbo on my ms3 thanks wannabe-tuners keep up the good work 🤙🏽🔥

First

Had high hopes for this vid until I saw a clamp being used for crimping and speaker wires being used for accessory wiring …..👎👎👎👎

Is there any news on the speed3? How about you guys, are you doing well?

Question on reinstallation: I tried my hardest to not remove the steering shaft... No beuno. I don't fully trust my wife to hold the wheel in place... She would agree. lol. If I lock the steering wheel then pull the bolt and disconnect the shaft, am I safe to move forward without worrying about the clock spring moving?

did the engine not need to be machined ?

Wrong!

Would this fix a p0101 /p0172? Been chasing weird engine performance issue for a little while. When I physically move the intake, the starts to rough idle then eventually correct itself. Thanks!

Anyone figure out the white carbon stuff under the exhaust valves? Is it just burned away?

Your chek engine lihgt keeps coming on 😂😂😂😂

How can I talk to u I really need ur help

Hey I have a question

I have the same issue now, is the one linked in the description the one you used for the repair?

Nice! Where do you see full boost by?

ChatGpt says it would cost around 20-28k to add all the mods you listed in the description to get my speed3 like yours, you think this is accurate ?

So, it’s been 4 years…. How she running?!

Im trying to find a replacement fuel pump with the case and the whole thing, will the one from the CX7 fit? anyone that help me will be really appreciated. (The mazdaspeed and CX7 have same "main plug" but the top cover is not completely rounded, is a bit confusing)