It’s a boat anchor

Liked it doing a fine job 👍🏾 keep it up thanks nosale 🙏🏾

I have answers for your questions on the Short concerning the tach drive gear, but I don't know how to post them on a Short.

Get a LS 6.0 from a junk yard. Killer horsepower, killer gas mileage.

Tackled this on the ‘71 today. Was pretty much as yours, but not thingamajigger on the bracket, hose to it had been blocked off, and no line leading to a canister up front (no canister). So, a vented cap it will be. Sure am glad I bought 2 cans of PB Blaster! Exhaust portion was a dream as it is all spanking new, was just hanging there, without even any clamps. Just twisted it all apart and sat it aside in the tool room. Sadly though, this showed me a ton of little things that I can now get to so that I can sand, seal, paint, replace, re-wire, renew, etc. No way I’m putting that tank and exhaust back in there without doing what you’ve done, freshening everything up and adding protection against corrosion, chafing, etc. By the way, I’ve started referring folks (multiple times already) towards your vids over on the Corvette forum when they have questions. Hope that is a return help!

The most important thing to get right when building a sb400 is the QUENCH!!!! The only head gaskets that used to be available were .042 " thick. Add to that the .025" deck height and you have the perfect formula for DETONATION. This is one of the reasons that these engines got a bad reputation. How much do you want from this engine? I see from your other vids that you currently have 487 heads on the car. A 7cc flat top piston at .042 quench should give you about a 10.2:1 compression ratio with those heads. Camshaft selection is CRITICAL!!! If I assume that your Vette has an M22 4sp tranny with a 4.11 - 1 rear, experience tells me that a 260H cam will give you 350 hp and 430 lb torque with a power band that matches your gearing. You will have a Vette that is a drive able rocket ship. A sb 400 will give you everything that you want if everything is well thought out.

No way

😅Sorry for the tire man but this was gold 😂

I am just in the process of replacing the 400 block that I put in my Nova. It developed a crack through one of the block drain plug bosses, and was leaking coolant when it was hot. I also had some leaking problems around the rear of the right side with new head gaskets and AFR heads. My advise is to get the block thoroughly checked out and magnafluxed before you assemble it.

It's a boat anchor

The wall thickness between cylinders was too small, that's why it had overheating and blown head gasket issues.

I've got 4 sbc 400s. Danny.

Ok, just remember to steam port whatever heads you put on it, because if you don't, it's gonna overheat and be worthless. If you take it 0.60 over on the cylinders and add a 1/2 inch stroker crank, you get a 427 small block. Keep it at or below 11.5:1 compression, and it'll still run good on pump gas.

whats it worth $. ?

Don’t listen to everybodys negativity .I have a 650 hp naturally aspirated small block 400 in my Camaro. It is over 15 years old and is killer. It is 434 in.³ Bore it .030 over and put in the eagle stroker kit. everything is 4340 steel ,use L-19 rod bolts on their 3D H-beam rods like I did, and it will run forever. The other guy was right in his comment run dart 230 cc heads.Thats what I did. it will sound and pull like a big block. throw away the heads that came with it,DO NOT FORGET TO DRILL STEAM HOLES! Trust me it’s a good find been an engine builder over 30 years . Yes you could build an LS engine and yes, you could buy a dart block that will smoke that thing but no need and the cost is way better. good for you. Good luck and enjoy.

You have the makings of a 383 stroker, have fun with it.

Tear it down and have it crack checked. Arp main cap studs, because no idea on cycles of the stock bolts. New looking main caps might mean a new line bore, which possibly might mean a hard failure at some point in it's life.

I would seriously not use those heads, I’ve been in the same boat and used crappy smog heads before, but once I bought a set of promaxx project X alum heads I’ve never looked back. I can’t even tell you the difference in drastic power a great set of heads make. It’s like a 100 shot of nitrous all the time! Put them on a 509 block, we’ll never go back to crappy heads.

I just put a fresh 76 sbc 400 with vortec heads in my 72 chevelle

A stock build will be fine for flat tappet cam. If you go with a bigger cam with stiffer springs and or higher ratio rocker arms, a roller is a must.

Don't mix up the lifters or you will be buying new ones.

If you're going to do any up grades on power the extra piston speed from a 3.75" stroke need a 4 bolt main and arp rod bolts. At the very least put studs on the mains and arp rod bolts.

Siamese cylinders just like a 454 BBC

Good boat anchor

4 bolt blocks were made from 1970. To 1972 and they were 511 blocks ..except 1 511 which was built late 72 was a 2 bolt..only one i ever found , 2bolt blocks were built from then about 1973 to 1980, the 2 bolts numbers are 509, and 817 . Im told the 400 crank is nodular iron, makes sense to have a stronger crank for more stroke .Hope this helps.

A great and rear find. Only one thing I can picture that block freight training to the front if not strapped down properly ?

Machinist/engine builder here, block the junk steam holes and drill the extra coolant hole in the deck. Definitely sonic test it and crack test it, typically crack in the lifter valley on a 511 block and it could Be 4 bolt with nodular caps

Seems like nobody knows, take it all the way out/off and show it to me might just need a washer

Wind the window so as the spring is at its weakest position then fit spring with screwdriver and plyers not hard make shore spring around the right way

Probably rev harder with roller

You don't seem to know very much

There is no substitute for cubic inches.

Those 400 heads that you don't want to use have steam holed in them to match the ones in the block. You must either use the old heads, or have a machine shop drill the correct holes in your new heads.

Great find! Years ago I had a 74 Camaro with a built 400. That car was a real ripper! Just be aware, a lot of head manufacturers are not doing stock steam holes anymore and some will even void your warranty if you drill them. The only company I know who upholds the warranty is AFR.

Whatever you do don't use 5.7 rods. Did that too mine it was a pain in the ass grinding the rods because they hit the camshaft. Use some good aftermarket rods that won't require any extra work. I've been running mine for 25 years now never any issues like some people say who didn't know anything.

Cylinder ridge and date code on the bearings will give you an idea of use. Roller will avoid all the flat tappet quality issues.

No downside here. Go man go!

Add a little more stroke you'll be happy

Bore 030 over, forged pistons, roller cam,good heads, roller rockers,and go play.

😣

Nope don't waste your time. A 400 is notorious for blowing head gaskets. Cracked heads. And main journals being overcut and or undercut due to early 1970s walkout they had ppl go on strike and story goes as they walked out of factories they turned dials on crankshaft machines. I had a 1972 Impala that popped head gaskets every 8 k miles. I eventually rebuilt it at 88 k. And bingo. I had to order special main bearings from a speed shop .also had a flat cam. The engine never had power until I rebuilt it. I stuffed it in a 1981 Scottsdale with a 4 barrel quadrajet and a performance cam. Had the heads cked and had no cracks. At 2 k after the upgrade and rebuild I took it out. Ran against a 1968 mustang the guy had a 460 from a truck with a cam. I went around him at 110 mph. 2 nd gear at 6800 rpm shifted and blew head gaskets and both heads split. So. I say don't do it. Find a 283. Or a 300 HP 327 a have fun.

What's your address? Feel like sending you some balloons! Better mag that relic.

Go hydraulic roller and save yourself the potential problems that are associated with today's hydraulic flat tappet cams. You're gonna have that completely disassembled so toss those pistons and rods and get some flat tops with valve reliefs with a matching set of 5.7" or 6" rods. (I went .030 over with mine 20+ years ago.) make sure the machine shop uses a deck plate to final hone to size. And then get a set of MLS head gaskets. With the bores being so narrow in between each other the potential to blow the gasket between cylinders is there with standard felpro or something similar. When you're done you're gonna love the torque that comes with the added stroke. I still have my "406" in the garage. The car is long gone. @ 3,600 lbs I had run a best of 12.09 @ 110 on pump gas. I'll include a link to a video a friend took of that car on a lazy pass Best of luck. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXPRk4qZj8mfocUsi=_HtnKFYviXIP8vws

You can actually get 010 piston for it then 020. A good machine shop can get them. They're more expensive but you get more out of the engine as far as how many times you can bore it.

I saw the steam holes between the cylinders and knew exactly what it was, I have had one stashed since 1998.

Throw some 5.7 rods and flat top pistons a performer rpm cam kit. Some 186 double jump heads . Rpm intake. Itll rock. I promise.

I vote hydro roller. No lashing all the time. Long term investment. Dang! That 1 lifter!!! But, if not for it, you may not have scored.