Lol we just did my moms garage two weeks ago and she still hasn't pulled it back in, same thought! Yep - all the rollers are one time use. So we end up using new heads on both the epoxy and topcoat day. Thanks for the kind words! Happy holidays and appreciate the support from way over there! <3 <3 <3

Yep. Not much you can do with them other than just load em up with the rubber crackfill. Sorta a pain to run the shoe over it, so helps to have a metal putty blade to smooth it out overtop.

Trial by fire brother lol! Yeah, this was maybe a week or so in? Takes a minute to get the flow of things and not get the wires crossed as we're moving. Appreciate the support as always. Six P's baby!

@@royerfromjersey Get after it!

Appreciated! This was back in the heat of the summer, so asphalt temps were around 150ish I'd wager. Cooling / misting it with water will drop the temps down and sit in between the deep pores of the unsealed asphalt. When the sealer hits the asphalt, it's already been cooled by the water and prevents "flashing" of the water, clay + other materials in the sealer (think water in a hot skillet). This helps buy time to work out the footprints and help blend the stokes into each other for a uniform finish. Key is to have enough hose on hand, we use x2 100" flexible hoses + another x2 in the truck should we need to extend length or have an emergency clean up!

@ I appreciate the in depth reply, learn something new everyday ahah thank you!

We usually tell customers to wait it out at minimum of (1) year to (1.5) if they're really pushing for it and depending on the time of year it was installed. Need to let the oils out and have it oxidize (turn greyish) a bit before you add more sealer and lock in issues.

Thank you! I believe we were at $0.28. Still will make good money at $.25 for sure. We try to stick around $.28 - $.30 depending on how much prep is involved.

Yeah, these bristles seem to be stronger / thicker than the other attachment. We're going on year (4) with this unit and had to replace the head at the two year mark.

Thank you! No adjustments made on this project. We usually are able to work around adjusted timelines as long as it really doesn't throw things off or if they make a call where we're not able to work that day, then we'd bill for our mobilization. I believe we came in around $.28 for sealing and $1.00/ lf for crackfilling.

I like it! Need to invest in one next year and make sure it stays on the truck! I can see it easier than a backpack and even a small little gas one. Less fuss and issues.

It had my questioning my career choice at one point!

@royerfromjersey 😄

Appreciated - thanks for tuning in!

Much appreciated! First is to make note of them and make sure the customer understands we can't guarantee removal/discoloration unless we do a full rip / removal + install new asphalt. Most don't go that route unless it's really bad. Otherwise, we will use Sealmasters "Oil Prep" latex primer that we scrub and blow into the areas, let it sit while we prep & then seal over when they're dry.

Sorry for the delay, I missed this one! I don't remember off hand, think it was 2,000'ish square feet? We usually charge anywhere between $.28 / $.35 a sqft depending on how much prep work. You don't want to be less than $1.00 a lf if you do crackfilling. Not sure if Coal Tar will be banned in MN, so you'd want to do you diligence in finding an asphalt emulsion distributor near you. Sealmaster, Neyrea, Goldstar are a few out west. Happy to help answer any other questions or help with any marketing for getting things rolling next year.

No pressure washing here. Ideally service the client in one day vs splitting it over two days if you pressure wash. Any heavy buildup of dirt inside, we hit with our Powerbroom + blower and if it's really bad we'll break out the Billy Goat Grazor that's a walk-behind wire wheel that takes care of just about anything you throw at it! Thanks for watching!

Yep! We're actually down here. Let me know if we can help with anything!

@royerfromjersey what's your contact number?

Appreciated! Thanks for watching

Appreciated! Yeah, it makes all the difference in a broomy / streaky appearance. Little more work but pays off when neighbors want theirs to look "just like that one".

Yep, we seal right over it. We've found it lessens the chance of hot tire pickup, able to walk / drive / wheel over the hot rubber without tacking or leaving marks, rubber has more "bite" for the sealer to adhere and blend better

Gonna be getting in on the game sooner or later ? what do you guys use if I may ask acrylic? Asphalt kingdom or black max ? Only small jobs to begin then as tumor goes on will expand not in on it yet

@@makycaris4672 We use a blend of Coal Tar + Asphalt Emulsion that's sold by Sealamaster here locally. They're nationwide and there might be one close to you that can do rentals & sell the material. Me, I'd personally steer clear of Asphalt Kingdom. Judd has been known to market to newcomers getting into the business. If you break down the cost of the sealer shipped to your door, it could be upwards of $8-$10 per gallon. We're currently paying $3.12ish a gallon and that makes all the difference for the profit margins on the job. Now is the time to find deals on used equipment going into the winter. If it were me, I'd exhaust my resources in trying to find a used, 300 gallon, hydraulic agitated tank that you can plop down on a landscape trailer or box truck. Find a used, MA-10 crackfill kettle, backpack or walkbehind blower and you're pretty much in business. Facebook has groups for "Used Sealcoat Equipment", search their marketplace and check out local Craigslist. Confident you can find something decent between now and April depending on your budget. Once you have equipment, build a solid brand / logo / website / Google My Business profile, offer to do neighbors and family for discounts or at cost to build photos and content. Design a solid handout and EDDM mailer that you can leave with neighbors, never cut corners and you'll have it made in the shade in no time!

The sand helps prevent hot tire pickup, makes it so we can wheel / drive right over the hot cracks & gives the sealer bite on top of the rubber that helps it blend better. We go over the cracks and fill flush then throw the sand.

This was two coats. By the time you get back to spray the second coat, the first coat should be dry and let you drive on it.

Yeah, the power broom was an absolute game changer. We used a 12" & 6" wire brush for the first few years that we would clean with & the amount of labor + time we spent would have paid for itself in the first week! Little ergonomic improvements here and there really help make for a better end product, quicker production and higher profits!

Comments like these are what keep me going! Very much appreciate the kind words. Wish we could make it up there, but it's a bit outside our service area right now. Yeah, there's quite a bit that goes into the backend with capturing & editing all the content while making it somewhat enjoyable to the audience. In the final stretch of our season here so hopefully should be able to sit down and get caught up on the videos.

Sure! We use a MA-10 crackfill unit that heats and melts the rubber. We used Sealmaster "Direct Fire" crackfill that they sell in 30lb boxes. Drop it in, heat it up and then push / wheel the machine to fill the cracks. There should be a Sealmaster location that would rent the unit + sell the DF crackfiller, so you might be able to knock it out yourself. We go over the same crack multiple times until its flush and seamless with the surface of the asphalt. It will settle / sink a bit in higher temps outside or you overcook the material. Try to keep it between 300-350F while heating up. Once you have seamless crack. The sand we use is "Black Diamond" Blasting abrasive, the red bag. It's a finer blend, not as course and helps the rubber have more bite for the sealer to live on. They sell it at most Tractor Supply stores and or Sealmaster should carry them. Throw it on top of the warm rubber and then blow it off the driveway before you do your sealing.

We've got a few more weeks in the sealing season here, let me know if you wanna come knock out a few with us!

Smaller hairline surface cracks & any "alligator" cracking / cracks forming inside a soon to be pothole. Anything showing penetration to the subgrade are usually good candidates that most homeowners want filled. Have to explain in detail if they've been sealed too many times and they want all the surface cracks filled caused by the oversealing and not regular pavement distress.

As long as there's no sitting dirt / debris in the crevices before we seal, no issues with dirt stains ontop of the asphalt.

This is a mix of coaltar + AE

Enough to cover labor, materials, depreciation, insurance, taxes + put a little bit in our pocket!

This blend was Sealmasters Coal Tar emulsion. For residential where we brush, one coat is really all you need with the amount we put on. Commercial work usually calls for 2 coats since we're spraying the material vs brooming it in.

@@royerfromjersey nice I literally just bought a 575 gallons tank from sealmaster I’m going to fill up at their shop and seal my hotels thanks for the response

No problem, it's a great machine! Let me know if you have any questions or anything with the process. Happy to help!

@@royerfromjersey I definitely will I have been line striping for a few years have a 3900 and 3400 trailer generator etc I got that part of the business down to a science but new to sealcoating I appreciate your videos I know it’s a lot of work, I have a tik tok and it’s a pain in my ass editing 15 second videos I couldn’t imagine full KZbin videos, but just know for the far and few people watching it, they’re watching for a reason!

Thank you! The sand allows us to walk / wheel right over the hot rubber, prevents hot tire pickup & gives the rubber surface some bite for the sealer to better adhere and blend in so the lines aren't as noticable.

Appreciated. We're between $.28 - $.35 per square foot depending on the condition. Small ones we have a minimum.

I suppose it depends on what type of sealer you'd be using, but with Sealmaster, our specs call for no application sub 40F, no issues with the high temps if you're cooling the pavement down to prevent the flashing of water / clay out of the sealer. Lots of variables that come into play, (full sun, no sun, shady spots, what are the temps at night) but we'll stop sealing late October / early November and pick it back up around April / May.

Appreciated! We're running Shindaiwa 25.4cc Straight Shaft Power Broom with the nylon bristles. This is our second season with it and have changed the bristles once. Hasn't let us down once!

@@royerfromjersey game on! Thanks for the heads up brother

Yep. Just left that part out to keep it a bit shorter

Thanks 👍🏻

Appreciated! Yeah she was drying quick after the hose down, finally moving into the cooler part of the season, so I'm not complaining. I got you on the next video! Seems to be a mixed bag with some liking the sped up version and the long format ones. It would be the length of a feature film if I didn't crank up the speed just a little bit!

Appreciated! Just trying to be like you when I grow up! Thanks for all you do

yep, just good ol H20. It drops the pavement temps down to a workable temperature. Avoids "flashing" of the water / clay out of the sealer (think water hitting a hot frying pan). Buys a little more time to work with it, get the footprints out and makes for a more uniform finish vs the streaky lines that will show through.

Yep. We drop the pavement temps from 140F+ down to the 90ish range. Prevents flashing of the water / clay and other materials out of the sealer (think water in a hot frying pan), less broom marks, easier to work with and a much more uniform finish. Water already in the sealer, the small amount we add to the pavement before sealer is negligible

We're averaging 50-60ish sqft per gallon depending on the age of the asphalt. So safe to assume 50 on 7,500 would be about 150ish give or take?

Also..awesome on the pepper front! It is addicting raising the little ones from seed to harvest. Good on you and hope to get the pepper content rolling this winter!

It's a good problem to have I suppose! Looking forward to some r&r this winter. Peppers have kept me sane throughout the doldrums over the cold months. Sorta went all out with tents, lights, different genetics and what not a few years back. Got into fermenting and it's since spiraled out of control!

We got our steps in that day for sure!

Good question! We hand brush 99% of our jobs, so there's really no threat to airborne particles, unless you're sticking your head in the tank breathing it in. Coal Tar does contain VOC's and you don't really want to be breathing that stuff in, so when I spray, I'll for sure wear a mask / protective glasses in case the wind changes my direction. There's a lot of old school people stuck in their ways and claim that they also eat asbestos for breakfast with no issues. Most states are banning Coal Tar and switching to Asphalt Emulsion. CT lasts longer and has more durability, but the AE is better for health and environmental solutions. I don't chance issues when it comes to health. Only other potential issues would be the smoke coming off of the crackfill units. You don't want to be inhaling any kind of smoke to be honest, but that stuff is basically burning, melting rubber so it's best to keep in kettle down wind and don't breathe it in if its in your face.

@@royerfromjersey good to know. Thank you for the tips. What about on your skin? again feels like a dumb question but figured I would ask.

I personally don't have any problems with it as we don't use 100% coal tar. I know some people who don't wear protection would end up with burns / redness at the end of the day and just deal with it. Not the way to go about it! Tyvek suit, facesock, eye protection and a mask while spraying is the best bet.

Very much appreciated! The investment is a no-brainer if you plan on competing in the game years down the road. It's been an absolute game changer and increased ROI substantially. Add up the additional would have been man hours, fuel, deprecation on equipment and ergonomics. It's worth its weight in gold. My only complaint is that we didn't get it sooner. Absolutely nothing is going down in price & it's going to be $5k more here in 2-3 years.