I don’t like starting them the first time with the handle as I have had them back fire and the handle is then flying about the shed! Once they are usually set right they start as well with the handle as off the flywheels, plus it’s something less to forget! Haha it wouldn’t be first time I’ve gone to a rally and left the handle at home! Haha

Thanks Bob. I’m sure it was! I knew as soon as I heard it, I knew exactly what it was! Just another job that’s not needed! 🤦🏻‍♂️ He’s on the mend! Long road to recovery though! And I’m ready for rally season now! It’s been a long old winter this year!

They all mean business! 💪🏼

You always get one engine that you remember! I had a Lister B tank cooled that I’m like that with. It now lives in a museum

I must admit, these are now defiantly “playing out clothes” 🤣 and I have had my fair share of been covered restoring this one!

I never noticed that 🤣

There’s usually not a lot of flames if they are ok. Under the sheets is my motorbike to keep the muck and dust off it. I’m very limited on room as my workshop/shed is only 8 feet wide. I do have plans to widen it around another 2 feet but this requires a lot of concreting and fabrication of a new roof along with the moving out of one of the sides. This also takes up a lot of cash that I haven’t really got, so it is a long term project to do this

Thanks Bob! Yes! I decided to keep my face out the way this time, just incase! It run really well at that (at working speed) but it just wouldn’t slow down as should tick over a lot slower and then pick up when needed. They do run very quite do the petrol paraffin engines as there’s just a lot more exhaust room without the silencer to take the bark out of it. I am thinking a up sweep exhaust though. I think it just wouldn’t start before as there was just either too much fuel or not enough fuel as these do like to be “full” of fuel to keep air out of the system. If there isn’t enough in the bowls, jets and the whole system you don’t get any joy and that’s all I can put it down to. Once the tank was on and everywhere was full it started pretty easily!

@@leeslisters I noticed in the last video the fuel coming out of the exhaust, thats why much as i like the idea of the up exhaust the down exhaust seems more prudent if there's a chance of the exhaust filling with petrol (what if the exhaust pipe is a simple L bend that can be fitted in the up or down configuration?), anyway great to hear the engine running lovely rhythm/beat sounds not dissimilar to our concrete mixer with a 750 rpm Lister diesel engine.

@@stevehill4615 they are usually upwards to direct fumes away from the user of them to be fair. The fuel coming out the exhaust was mainly caused by not having the fuel tank in place and having too much fuel down the plug hole and up in the inlet side really. It’s not usually a massive issue once they are set right.

Thanks for joining! It sounds like you will have many hours of fun with that! Sod the neighbours! HAHA I often run mine on the drive and with the garage doors open, it’s not every night or weekend so they are quite understanding. A good silencer on the exhaust can make the difference between a happy and a grumpy neighbours!

Yes, it isn’t the most efficient way of getting them started that is for sure! You don’t realise how frugal a H type is compared to one of these! Haha

Thanks again Bob! I hope so too as most my collection are as big and heavy as this! I must admit it was rather frustrating that it wouldn’t go and there was a few choice words that I cut out of the video near the end 🤣

It wasn’t too bad! Still got me beard!

Please do subscribe! The exhaust is only turned this was round for storage and as I only took a basic few tools with me it wasn’t swapped upwards with the silencer screwed on either.

You don’t always need loads of complicated and expensive things to cure a simple problem!

I can’t give all my secrets away 😉 a little hint though is that it is not a “new” product. It’s really designed for sticking down Fordson Standard N head gaskets…..

Looks like we'll seal to me

I don’t own a copy but I do have a scan of an electric copy. This engine was featured in that issue (if I remember correctly) along with a couple more issues too over the years. To say it moved into preservation in around 1990, it’s not swapped hands many times unlike a lot of engines on the scene.

There’s no tinkering to do to get it sweet 👌🏼 just some fresh fuel and warmth though the cylinders and it’ll be different again!

They are a very rare engine! They was made mainly for industrial use really but here in the UK Diesel was taking off fast that time in life so they soon become redundant, yet in other parts of the world petrol was still a lot more popular so, yes a lot ended up been exported but they wasn’t made solely for export

Thank you! You’ll be hooked for more once you get it going! It never stops at just 1 engine!

So I turned the fuel supply off at the carb on the needle but I always open one of the de compression taps when it’s close to stopping and then the other just as it’s about to stop as by what you can see form the video it’s a “spitter” and does like to throw fuel, smoke and flames out of the carb! So as a precaution I always open the taps guaranteeing that it’s not going to rock back on compression and throw a load of surprises out of the carburettor into my face!

Best rally by far anywhere! It’s not cheap to go as close by but it’s definitely worth it! Will be our second year and it was just great!

@@leeslisters Plane tickets Helsinki-Amsterdam-Helsinki, Train tickets to Eindhoven, Hotel... Yeah! Not a cheap trip.

@mondaymechanics you will have to make sure you introduce yourself 👍🏼 I’ll more than likely be the only person with a X type there

Or the correct term is “a stationary engine” 😉

Runs a dream when loaded! Just not practical to do it all the time due to its weight

Thanks Bob. Sure! 1926 Lister X Type Stationary Engine Working Hard kzbin.info/www/bejne/n33bp5uhms2Fp5o I do enjoy this engine. There’s just something about it. It is making a couple of appearances this year so will get a good run. Glad you enjoyed it!

@@leeslisters thank you 👍

It definitely is! 👍🏼

You me both! It’s taken a long time and a lot of work to get it where it is currently!

Yes it is! You have to think though that this is a good few years before the DK first came about! You wouldn’t use the water injection valve till the working is working very hard! I have never worked a engine hard enough to need it but when on paraffin they “creek” when working hard and the water that is dripped into the inlet stops this by helping lubricant the top end I believe. Unless it is balls out, it’ll be something that never gets used

They will if working very very hard! And I mean, VERY hard! But the minute that they are given any slack at all and cool ever so slightly it will do nothing but cough, smoke and run very badly and in no time soot the plug and then your in a whole world of headache! It is best avoided really and using either straight petrol, TVO or heating oil is the best. Diesel is more or less a last/desperate option and not really recommended at all on these!

I run a small villiers with a vaporiser on diesel. I use it to pump water. It work just as good as on petrol.

@enginelover1 that will run a damn site faster than this will though and will get hotter quicker than this. Flat out this will only do 350rpm and will more than likely not run much more than 200rpm usually. Plus having around 500L of cooling water will keep it a lot cooler than a very small air cooled engine

@@leeslisters Yes you are right on that one.

Yes me too! Ive stripped a few of these now and I must admit I’m always shit scared of something going badly wrong….. luckily it was only that plate and somehow, form somewhere I just happened to have a spare! The Luck!

Yes! Very very wet! Can’t say it was particularly fun but it was good to flex the X 💪🏼

That must have been interesting! It seems pattern making is becoming a little bit of a lost art! Yes some of the castings that they made, even on a very small scale are ever impressive! In the end when I get the red tin out with the “not so easy, easy outs” out of, that has some left handed drill bits in that I had forgotten about. It didn’t make any difference I’m afraid so just had to go for it

Can be a nightmare remembering what size does what! Especially when they all look the same!

Thank you! Ye si can imagine that over there they are quite few and far between. They are very common here but you will find that a few of the range are very rare, even here!

No this is perfectly normal for these when you put the crank and piston in together without the flywheels on that they are incredibly difficult to turn over. You have to think that there is around 250-300kg of flywheels to be hung on the end of the crank shaft. You will see in a later video when the flywheels are on that it turns much easier! This was the exact same on my J, K, L and R type that I have also rebuilt before

It’s going to be a trade secret Ian! Like I said I would like to offer a refurb service at some point in the future so don’t want to give all my secrets away! Thank you though! Lee

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!

The nylon and the brass ones get used more than the steel ones for me! The steel ones are just a little too harsh for the lead based paint often scratching it and not cleaning it. We all have our different needs!

Me too! Thank you

Everything did get a good oiling before it went in (unfortunately I didn’t film this) they are also inherently hard to turn over without the flywheels on too hence using the long pry bar to turn over

No need to unless they are absolutely worn out. They never fitted any either new and none stated in any of the parts manuals

thank you for that info@@leeslisters

Me too! 53 years in silence! I’m sure it’ll come soon! The pump is now done and that will be next weeks video.

If i remember correctly the Q/R type are a 3.9L

It worked really well! They was thin enough that they kept the spread on the ring without putting too much pressure on the ring forcing it over the gaps. It was easy too that the fact it bridged the other gaps to drop them all in from the top!

Yes some do have shims in. They usually have them in if they are badly worn but these have always been an after fit/dealer/technician/farm fix, there is no mention of a genuine part in any of the part books. I have stripped and rebuilt a few now and had a few farm fresh engines and have only come across shims in usually older restoration engines, never farm fresh ones

I have never used that technique before. I have used similar before with an air hammer to loosen studs but never knocking nuts like that. I will remember that and use it next time I get one like it again. Thank you!

@@leeslisters On studs out of turbines and compressor casings where the stud came loose instead of the nut we would use two techniques. First was to hold the stud and strike a flat of the nut against a flat surface, then check if nut has come loose, if not then repeat with the next flat and so on until you could get the nut to turn, if that failed we would then use the method outlined in my first post. The hot end parts of a turbine were always the worst.

Yes it appears so! A few people have mentioned it now. Never something I had heard of till uploading this video!

Thank you for this. I hope that you also enjoy the future videos as my camera and editing skills improve along with my confidence in front of/talking to the camera improve! This is all very new to me so is taking some learning but I am very glad you enjoyed this one more than the first!

I did think on filing it in “real time” but there is approximately 1 hour to 1 min of time lapse video so this would have been over 3 hours long!! This was also the first time I have really edited or made any videos for KZbin so it was defiantly a bit of a test! I hope you enjoy the rest of the videos that I make going forward but just to warn you there will be music from time to time when time lapse is used or when there is a long periods of working but not a lot of talking when cleaning. I do enjoy the talking and explaining parts and there is more in the later videos to come when more is happening! The cam shaft and crank shaft (shown in Part 3) are very hard metal and nearly impossible to scratch or mark. I have wire wheeled both before and never had any problem and have used it on cast many many times before when cleaning off oil paint work for full restorations.

And the gloves (although those ones should just rip but not with more substantial gloves). One of my ex housemates can't reach as far up his nose as he used to with his finger because of gloves pulling him into a machine. Lucky, it was just the end (half way to first knuckle) of one finger. It was a brief period where I could beat him at pool ;)

Yes! It was only as I edited the video that I noticed that they was very close at times!

The gloves are just a silicone glove and snap/rip at the slightest thing! I actually find they are safer than bare hands in the fact that if you get a warm piece of swarth land on your hand it generally doesn’t burn! It also help with keeping them clean and cleaning when I go back in!

I don’t think I have ever seen a complete Q type at a show before! I’ve seen them when they have been missing the vaporiser but never complete! I’m looking forward to getting this one done! Hoping that I can have it done for Newby Hall “Tractor Fest” in June