That looks so easy... With the carburetor on a table. Sadly you show with the angle of the screw driver, ADD 80s vacuum hoses to TVS' & the location of the engine in a Chevy van😢. It's not easy adjusting fast idle on engine.

Muy agradecido con su información es lo que necesitaba saber y no encontre nadie que me la ofreciera ,mil gracias.

Thanks for the info!!!

The best rebuild video on KZbin, thank you brother!!

Hello, First off I like your videos. I always seem to pick up a tip or something I didn't know. My question is in your videos you don't mention the secondary disc's. On the other hand , how do you remove the idle tubes ? I thought about taping them and pulling them out. Your thoughts?

1987 Q-jet on 350 chevy choke light on in dash too fast idle on start for too long does go to normal curb idle when warm. do I drill out the rivets through and install tiny bolts on the spring case (electric choke)? The fast idle screw is hard to get at on this motorhome. probably reset the cam thanks

Thank you for the video! I just purchased this replacement piece from your shop as I’ve got a pretty bad vacuum leak in my 1970 C10 due to this piece breaking in two

I am a carb rebuilder myself and specialized in Q-jet glad to see someone doing the repair properly

Awesome, love the video! I look forward to every video you guys post on here.

It's great to see how it's done. The Marine-Tex didn't fix my hard to start problem, it was your filter check valve that you sell! Amazingly the car starts so much easier after sitting for weeks. I'm surprised you didn't mention the check valves.

T

You guys are awesome carb people 😊,, I've bought 2 and nothing but praise from me,,,and anytime I get a chance i steer people your way if i can,,,the 2 i bought were for offroad super rough service an i was amazed at the idle no matter the angle or off an restart standing it on back bumper or nose down just bump the key an not even so much as a hiccup ,,,,yall have a awesome product,,, keep it up😊

Can I still adjust the curb Idle screw if my manual choke isn't hooked up?....I live in. Arizona....and haven't hooked it up yet.

I have a 400 Pontiac, carb number 17059263,the rear vaccum break seems to be holding the fast idle cam up on its last step,should the choke spring pull it of when fully warm or is the vacuum break out of adjustment, it does have a primary pull of which works fine

Is there any way to prevent the choke rod from popping off the lower piece so easily, like maybe some kind of small cotter pin or something?

Thank you very much for the video Sir. It was idling too high at the start. Adjusted Left side and it works great. Thank you

One thing I learned when installing an electric choke, thanks to Quadrajet Power is that the small vacuum port inside the choke housing has to be sealed off completely or else you will have a vacuum leak around the choke.

Thank you for posting this video - and BTW, at 2:30 your camera is perfect, we can see the lever down inside the well. 👍 I'd like to add a couple more tips, because I'm trying to do this right now on a Buick 430 with the carb still on the engine - nobody wants to disconnect a QuadraJet fuel line if they don't have to - and of course I can't tilt the car 90° to help me get everything back together... 😉 For anyone also trying to avoid removing the carburetor, THE most important thing is to cover the air horn perfectly before you try to pull the clip off the top of the internal/upper choke rod... We don't want that thing going down into the engine! Another trick for getting the lever out of the well vertically is to hold a magnet (I'm just using a pen-type telescopic one) on the top of the disconnected upper choke rod to attract the loose lever down inside and pull it up and out. Well I'm back... To get the rod and lever combo back down the well and on to the choke shaft, without benefit of turning the carb on its side to keep the oval hole in the diagonal position, I used a stupid-simple trick: I laid the pull-off/fast-idle assembly on it side, with the upper choke rod temporarily connected, and lined it up with the vertical 'line' made by the big hole for the mounting screw and the indexing 'dimple' above it. Then I just used a single flat wrap of masking tape to hold the rod and lever at that angle. That allowed me to get the lever back down the well perfectly lined up to put the choke shaft through it and reattach that side assembly. The last step was to open the throttle, fully close the choke & release the throttle, and then fully cycle the choke by hand to break the tape loose.

Thanks! This video was just what I was looking for!

Traducción en español

You guys are great. Thank you !

Hello! I've installed my joke on my Quadrajet but I'm noticing that my fast idle cam isn't engaging when the engine is cold. As a result, my car idles very low (say 600rpm) when it should be higher. If I engage the cam manually by pushing it up while opening the throttle, it sits in place properly and the engine will idle at the proper ~1600rpm or so. Once warm, I can kick it down to proper idle at ~750rpm. I'm wondering if maybe I either installed something incorrectly or maybe my thermostat spring is on its way out. Have you ever seen this before? Thanks in advance.

Glad I found this video, I have a '78 Chevy c10 /350 sb and a quadrajet 4bbl carb, likely in need of a rebuild. I'll pull the stamped code and hopefully you can point me in the right direction for a rebuild kit.

Is the rod always in that higher hole in the actuator? What is the 2nd hole below it for?

Does the small step go up or down? This video wasn't very clear...

wish i watched this this before i tried to remove throttle blades..broke 2 screws..one primary one secondary..would they be ok with just one screw on reassembly..i know its not right but will it work

where can i find complete power piston assembly...mine was rusted in and destroyed..13:30 these are not reproduced..does that mean i am SOL...I hope not..I cant be first guy needing one.

my Q-jet is in rough shape.Secondary doors rusted shut.power piston rusted and totally destroyed removing and two screws broke off on primary and secondary shaft door flaps..Question ..would it be ok to reinstall with only one screw in a base plate door.one missing on a primary one missing on secondary..the other two are ok..I would like to drill out but they are so small..Thank you for the videos.I took so many photos but you cant beat live action..So very thankful..I took carb apart 3 hours ago and already forgot how to reassemble..LOL...carb in now soaking..Cheers.

No wonder my truck won't idle below 1600.. my fucking screw is missing

another great helpful video, thank you!

What if the curb idle screw is so far back, that it's not touching the lever? I am able to adjust the fast idle speed with no issues. My problem is my curb idle speed. I cannot seem to get it below 1000 RPMs. At times when the car is in park it moves up to around 1050-1100 RPMs. To me that seems kind of high, I am trying to get it down to 850-900 at idle, in park. Once I shift to drive it drops down and seems normal. Do I need to screw it all the way back in until it's touching the lever, and the make adjustments from there? Also, do I adjust the curb idle speed with the car running or off? I make my fast idle adjustments with the car on to listen to the rise or fall of the RPMs during warm-up. Thanks for the video and any advice!

Got everything you need for Qjets? How about a '65-'66 vac break? 😉 Great video! Very helpful!

Thanks - I've been trying to find those retaining clips!

What happens if my apt screw is missing ? I recently went to rebuild a quadrajet that has this system and wasnt sure what was missing from there now i know and now im worried i purchased junk do i need it ?

Thanks for the video, is it ok to adjust the main idle screw for a little more speed,does it matter that the throttle blades are open slightly on idle?

I’m a total greenhorn when it comes to Rochester Quadrajets, but I learned Holley 4150’s and the like just because it’s what I always had, Holley is very easy to maintain if you don’t disturb the throttle shaft, I would rather not try and repair a bad Holley base an opt for a new one, or whole unit. I need to build my Rochester to accommodate the new 402 Chevy BBC 9.5 to 1 comp. Dual plane L78 type mid rise , solid flat tapper Lunati 515 intake 525 exhaust 108 lobe sep. 104 intake center, 224 intake and 236 exhaust duration @ .050 , Hooker Comp headers, 3 inch exhaust and big block Flowmasters, electronic ingnition. I have a new 1901r candidate. Price please?

Ordered a kit from yall last week received it yesterday. Rebuilt carb today with quick overview of video. Now my 1970 cadillac 472 runs fantastic! Need to finish fixing choke operations. Otherwise its great! Thanks for making kits available.

When the choke is activated on the fast idle cam and runs at higher rpm is it possible to make it run smoother at that high idle speed? Thanks.

I honestly had no idea you could do this and I’ve had them apart a million times. I think I’m going to tare one sort and try this

I built one last weekend and forgot to put the spring back in for the power pump 💩 oh well it’s not that hard to take apart

Thanks for sharing. I like these carbs. Easy to work on and easy to teach

Haha you sound like ned Jarrett

Awesome

Working on an all original 1970 Chevelle SS with a 396/402. It has the short filter housing and filter but uses the plastic gasket at the end of the threads not the paper gasket up by the head. Have you ever seen that before?

Thanks for the intell you saved me on a promise i made and almost couldnt back up. ive built these before but it was like 27 years ago and i was stuck trying to set the floats . I appreciate it keep up the good work

How do I know if I should replace my float during rebuild?

I have a 7045583 and after installing the base throttle plate I can see some light after tightening with a new gasket. Any tips on what I should do to correct it? I can see light on the choke side near the secondary shaft. Iused a straight edge on the main body near that area and measured it with a feeler gauge and it is out about .012

Don't break your nails

Awesome video been super helpful

Like the video for sure, love to learn more….