Hi Erick. I’ve had to do the exact same thing with the Channel Locks. Maybe replace the O ring? Although that shouldn’t make a difference. Honestly after I had to pull the clamp together, the next time I cleaned that same filter the band went on fine. I’ve also had to do the same with Haywards and Pentair’s. The bottom line is you figured it out, you should feel good about that!

@@LucyInnuso it appears that all my Jandy filters are causing me stress. Same issue with the filter clamp. I rings to the filter are “fine”. Just the clamp won’t close.

@@erickrhernandez1451 I’d call Jandy. Maybe they have a batch of defective bands or lids. Or the plastic is expanding in the heat.

I really have to start up again. I have hours of material…I just need to get in and edit them. Also KZbin has changed and I’m just seeing these comments in my email. I was wondering why people stopped contacting me. I’ll get going again. Thanks!

You do not have to shut off the motor, just be sure the valve is functioning properly so when you turn it the ‘inlet’ is never closed. For instance, if that little tab underneath the handle is broken the valve will turn without stopping and you could inadvertently close the inlet for a second and if the pump is running you’d be closing the water flowing to the pump. I know this is more info than you asked for and if you’re sure there’s no chance of the valve closing the inlet then you can turn the valve when the pump is running. I have other videos explaining Jandy valves. If you can’t find them let me know.

Yes that’s exactly right. You want to isolate the water in the spa from the pool otherwise you’ll keep pulling in cold water from the pool. Shut the suction and return to and from the pool. If you want to send me a pic of your valves either send here or my email [email protected]. An overview so I can see the filter and pump. Otherwise I think you’ve got it.

When you add Plaster White n Brite you can leave the solution on for a lot longer. Not sure how long you’ve been in the business but the ability to have good balance is important. I’ve been doing this work since 1983 and have never fallen in nor have I pitted plaster with the solution I use. Good luck in your endeavors with trial and error. L

Hi Erick. Could you send pictures of both because treatment for the algae depends on the location (wall or floor) and rust stains could be exposed rebar which is totally different from surface stains. If you can’t upload them here my email address is [email protected]. I do have a video on black algae, and sanding calcium deposits which would be the same technique as rust.

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips when I go back to my clients pools, I will send the pics to your email. Thank you for your time to respond and even going further for me by providing me your email. Some of my pools already had small black dots of algae when I was first assigned to them. Same for the rust stains. For the rust stains, I heard of “stain eraser” works well. I might give that a shot. Or a “a spot Out” tool that holds onto the muratic acid as you place the tool over the stain.

@@erickrhernandez1451 I’ve used both, plus a pumice stone that attaches to the pole. You just have to be careful because if the rust is caused by rebar poking through the plaster then when you scrub it you’re exposing the rebar and there’s no turning back. At that point you’ll have to drain the pool/spa and patch it. I have a video for that. As far as bl algae…the basic thing is to scratch the surface with a metal brush so that the chemical can penetrate the surface. After that there are a few things that need to be done in order for it not to spread. I’ll look tomorrow. I think I’ve got something on my website. I definitely have a video on KZbin about it. But it was a very extreme case.

First off I have my clients pay for a 50# bucket of chlorine tabs which I leave at their homes. I rarely use liquid chlorine. The chems I use are incorporated into the monthly service charge. Each pool has different demands so one pool may be $120/mo and another might be $200/mo. Except for the tabs, muriatic acid and the powdered chlorine I use are included. I use trichlor because it’s 90% available chlorine which is needed here in Vegas.

Wow. I just realized my settings were off to see comments. That repair is still holding up well. The problem with rebar poking through is it usually means there will be other areas that will start showing through. But in this situation as far as I know it has held. (I'm sure the client would have called me.) They're very good products.

Did you drain the pool into the sewer line?

Where do you live? There are certain city ordinances.

Majority of my clients pools don’t have a nearby sewer. Most of them have grass around their pools. I know from another acid wash video you created that i mentioned about “simple green” as a substitute for muratic acid use. I live in Pasadena, ca.

@@erickrhernandez1451 There’s usually a sewer line in front of most houses. I’ve put a hose in the toilet and shut the lid with a cinder block on top so the hose wouldn’t pop out. You definitely have to have a hose with no leaks. And someone should be home to monitor.

@@erickrhernandez1451 Simple Green will not remove calcium and stains which is the reason to acid wash.

Hi Diane, Boy am I sorry I just found out my comment settings were restricted. Yes, send the pictures to [email protected]. Take a few different angles and include the pump and filter.

If I have an empty gallon I like to have a half/half mixture but when you're out in the field sometimes it doesn't work out. In that case I'll pour a small amount of straight acid on a rinsed cartridge and quickly rinse it off. Then I proceed to fill the gallon with water until it becomes a 50/50 mixture.

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips thank you for responding back Lucy. Hope you are feeling and doing well. From what I heard, you’ve been having countless of surgery’s. I will be praying for your health.

@@erickrhernandez1451 Thank you. No surgeries for a few years now. I’m actually retiring so I’ll be able to post more content. As I was going through my channel I realized that there was a restriction on comments so I wasn’t seeing them.

Simple Green is good for deep cleaning of dirt but it won’t remove calcium which is the purpose of using acid. If you’re not in a hard water area you can use SG or liquid chlorine for algae. Thank you for your question. L

Thank you for taking the time to respond back. I love your videos and I’m a fan of your channel. By any chance do you offer courses?

@@erickrhernandez1451 Where do you live?

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips Pasadena, Ca.

@@erickrhernandez1451 Contact me at [email protected] and we can discuss what I can help you with.

I don’t remember but I know I use as low watt as possible for the spa. If you can find a 75W I’d go with that. Alternatively if you install a brighter light you can always put a colored lens over it. Hope this helps. Lucy

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips that’s Lucy you rock!

Thank you. That’s funny you should ask because as I’m servicing my pools I have been thinking about making a video about that exact subject. I have a couple of really smartly designed pools and some really poorly designed ones, I just have to take the time to put a video together. Meantime if you want to email me I can give you some do’s and dont’s or suggestions depending on what you expect from having a pool. There are also books about pool building and design that are very helpful. Lucy [email protected]

Hey Eric. I don’t really know. I haven’t come across people who remove the pump lid before cleaning the filters. In my experience I actually try to keep the filtration system as tight as possible so I won’t have an issue when I want to prime, thus I do not mess with the pump lid. I’m not sure if this helps you. Feel free to ask any questions. There are many conflicting theories so I hope I can answer your questions in a clear way based on my 40+ years in this business.

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I’ll be posting more videos soon. Let me know if there’s a specific subject I haven’t covered yet. Lucy

I’m sorry you’re having an issue with the vac head. It sounds like it’s missing the piece that connects the two. If you have a Leslie’s or other pool store nearby bring the vacuum in and ask for the connection. If they have the swivel connector that’s even better.

Applies to DRY chems. Thanks for watching. L

Thanks for letting me know. Lucy

It varies but I try to keep the stop no more than 20 minutes. However if it’s super windy I give myself 40 minutes and do the best I can. A client can’t expect their pool to be free of all debris after a big wind. Keeping filters clean is the most important aspect of service. I always say let the filter do the cleaning. If you have great suction an average size pool can be vacuumed in 15 minutes.

Thanks for the question. You can tell if there is a tear if DE comes out of the return valves. Very easy to spot. As far as broken grids, those too are fairly simple to detect without removing them. They would slope at the edges or be shorter at the top. In my experience keeping them together as a unit saves time and hassle and gets them 95% clean as opposed to the 100% if you clean them individually. For me the payoff is worth the time. To prevent broken and torn grids don’t overload them with DE, and clean often. Especially if you’re in a dusty or leafy environment. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. L

My pleasure. Thanks for letting me know.

My pleasure 😊

Let’s hope that fixes the issue. You can rearrange the hoses too to help get them out of a pattern. Also check the return lines to see if they are shooting the water in a way that’s affecting the hoses.

No need to shut the pump. The hose will be sucked in without your hand being too close to the suction port. I’m not sure how your equipment is set up but normally if you open the skimmer valve and close the main drain valve that will give maximum suction to vacuum. If the main drain and skimmer are on the same line you don’t have to do anything…suction is dominant at the skimmer. Hope this helps.

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips yes, this helps. Thank you very much for responding. You are awesome.

I know Sta Rite rings shouldn’t be lubed but in the classes I took at pool school we were instructed to use lube specifically created for O rings. However that was many years ago so I’ll check in with them. Thanks

Thank you! Happy Labor Day Weekend! Lucy

If you don’t want to put tape around it that’s your prerogative. I’ve had to replace too many leaking valves to know that tape is necessary. But wrapping too much is not good either. Thank you for your input. Lucy

Depending on how far the water drops, very often if you look in the skimmer, where the plastic butts up to the plaster, there is a separation and can easily be patched. I’m just throwing it out there because it’s about a 50% chance a leak is there. In my experience. I’m glad the video helped. Lucy

Thanks for letting me know. I’m happy it helped. Lucy

Let’s see…202 👍🏼no 👎🏼 and 86K views. I think you’re just embarrassed that you had to search KZbin for something you can’t do and found a woman demonstrating it. There are plenty of other channels you can watch.

Thanks for the question. Yes, I still have these installed in a few pools. The valve can be bought at Leslie’s Pool Stores if they’re in stock or at most hardware stores. The challenge is finding the fitting for the valve 1/2”-3/8” bushing (depending on the valve) but can be found in the specialty section usually. The P/N I have on the package is BF-828NLB 877204 Proline is the manufacturer. It’s brass. The chiseling is to remove the tile around the pipe coming out of the wall. You need to create enough room for the coupler to be glued on. Take your time so you don’t crack a big piece of tile. Also, before you start you have to determine if a coupler can fit over the pipe. I’ve seen many that over the years the pipe will be distorted and not round. You won’t be able to do this job if that’s the case. So before you buy anything check the pipe. Also check the anti siphon valve for leaks because it will be under pressure once the valve is in. Good luck! I hope I answered your questions. Lucy

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips It would be slick if there was a small float that could be installed through the pipe in the side of the pool and the mechanism that turns on and off the water was outside of the pool.

@@crownmoldingbyspectaculart941 I don’t understand. That’s what the video is about. Do you have an anti siphon valve to fill your pool?

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips we have a pool that was built in the early 80s perhaps and it has a water line through the side of the pool and you have to turn on the water outside of the pool to fill it. So the float device that you’re showing does not actually open and close the valve at the pool? Mine must not have an anti-siphon valve because my hope was that I could turn the water on to fill the pool and then control whether it comes out or stops right at that float

@@crownmoldingbyspectaculart941 That’s exactly what it does. So the valve outside the pool stays on then the valve installed on the pipe inside the pool is set to the level you choose. As water evaporates the valve inside the pool will drop down and add water. Think of your toilet valve. Same concept.

What kind of lines? Did they miss an area when they poured the acid?

I appreciate this, and it’s a good option for homeowners who have the large container and 8 hours. I don’t have the time to do that when I’m in the field. And this works just as well. Thank you for your intelligent comment. Lucy

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips You are welcome.

@@Lucyspools-diy-service-tips It was more for pool owners rather than professional cleaners.