@tomhalverson3438 gday mate, i tend to use more square stones but I've got a few pucks floating around, they're a handy thing and work well for maintenance sharpening. I reckon you get what you pay for with these, so I'd reccomended going for a brand like Hults Bruk, Helko, or GB. Cheers mate👍

@AnarchAngel1 gday mate, I'm actually working on a vid on this topic at the moment. Hopefully, I'll get it out at some point! 😆 I've been a bit slow on vids this year.. For handles, I definitely advocate for no runout, and vertical grain. The most handle breaks I've had have been caused by runout, then by horizontal grain that gets worn below the eye (typical damage you'd get from splitting sawn wood) which causes the belly of the handle to pop off. I don't recall ever having a handle break due to mixed heartwood/sapwood (that's one of the things I'm testing for in the upcoming video). As for heartwood vs sapwood, my own intuition says that sapwood should be softer and more flexible, heartwood stiffer and therefore more brittle, but I haven't broken enough of either to really have a solid opinion on it. Some of my favourite and most used axes have a heartwood/sapwood mixed handle and have had no issues. A main point I think is that axes used only for chopping tend to break less than splitting or "beater" axes in general, because they're just less prone to damage. Impact damage around the eye and shoulder, plus the torque implied trying to free stuck axes, tends to exacerbate any inherent weakness in the wood. Cheers mate! 🪓🪓

@kurts64 Awesome, I look forward to the video. Thank you for taking the time to reply. I've always tried to keep the grain as vertical as possible because it's pretty much impossible to make a curvy handle without any runout if it's not. Runout has also been the culprit for most of the handles I've broken as well, followed by damage under the eye just like you've experienced. I have axes with the grain running at like 45 degrees that have held up and other ones that haven't. Sometimes, I feel like some pieces of Hickory (I use Shagbark Hickory because that's what grows here) are just denser and tougher than other pieces. I've also had axes that I've used for years that were broken in 30 minutes when I've let someone else use them (I don't do this anymore 😅). So I think user skill is important as well. Some guys don't understand that you can't muscle an axe through the wood...

@kurts64 One other thing I've noticed. If you leave the handle too thick under the eye, it creates a stress riser and encourages the handle to break right where it thins out into the eye. It actually makes the handle weaker because naturally, it wants to flex at its thinnest point

@AnarchAngel1 hey mate, I've got a few mates in the US that chop white oak, sycamore, and locust, and from what I've seen, they're all serious timbers! Fimmel seems like a cool bloke I'll take that as a compliment haha cheers mate

@kurts64 LOL, it's definitely a compliment. The guy was a model! And I've also dealt with Syacamore before. It's not that bad to cut, but it can be a nightmare to split. It's not as bad as Elm or something, but it's stubborn stuff

Gday mate, for semi-custom handles, there's a few blokes down here I'd recommend; Jimmy Findlay, Paul Tattersall, and Chris Hadley, you should be able to find them on FB. Also, you could go the store bought option with either Cattle Dog or Emu handles. This would be the cheapest option but you'd have to work the handles down to a shape your comfy with. Another option is Engineered For Axemen, Pete over there now has a range of racing style handles in a few different timbers that ships worldwide. Cheers mate👍👍🪓

@jesseeasley8287 cheers mate! 👍👍🪓

Gday mate, nah thats the factory grind, still sharp, just a hard tree 😁🪓🪓

@@francoismarx2369 gday mate, tassie seems like a top spot! For small to medium trees, I'd recommend either the Hults Bruk/Hultafors 1.2kg, or maybe the 1.5kg if you want to go a bit heavier. File around a 22° edge angle (you can go finer later on once your comfy with it) and thin out the handle a bit, and either one of these axes should last you years and be very versatile. If you start looking towards a vintage chopping axe, go for a hytest, an old HB, or a Helko, around 4lb. If your after a good quality allrounder that can take some abuse and neglect, the Husqvarna plastic axes are great. Cheers mate, good luck! 👍👍🪓

@@kurts64 Thanks mate! That’s sounds good I’ll have a go at the 1.5kg, like em a bit heavier. Tassie is amazing, taken me 15 years to get here but I’ve made it over! Thanks for the info!

Cheers mate! 👍🪓🪓

I enjoy and envy your opportunity to use and test these axes. I own many great branded axes such as gransfors bruk and Tuatahi, but they are mainly just for displaying.

​@@MrKhiem-vy6hd thanks for watching mate, sounds like you got some good ones! 👍🪓

@@RealBrianLeFevre 😆 thanks mate! 👍👍🪓

@@tedmartin5402 cheers Ted! 👍👍🪓

@@Wcquick gday mate, thanks a lot, cheers! 👍👍🪓

Cheers mate, yep the Montreal is a great pattern I reckon 👍👍🪓

@@anthonycolbourne4206 thanks mate. The Kelly was closest in shape to a modern race axe and really did cut well. It's a bit more delicate than the others (more on this in an upcoming vid hopefully), but is really nice for clear timber. Cheers 👍👍 🪓

@@WillieMakeit gday mate, yeah they're a versatile bit of gear, mines still going strong on pretty much ever hike through thick country. Cheers👍👍

@@elvispusley3515 cheers mate, gotta love a Hytest Craftsman!👍🪓🪓

@@tjpighin gday mate, I had to ask a mate for help on this one but I know the head your talkin about, I've not seen that stamp before but it does look like a Kelly axe, and a pretty full bit too. Worth keeping an eye on, I reckon👍👍🪓

@@kurts64 ok thank you

@@jamesnelson1443 cheers mate! The Tui does a good job 🪓🪓👍

@@bunndyboy Gday mate, cheers👍🪓🪓🇦🇺

@@Weldandcarry gday mate, cheers! 👍👍🪓🪓

@@adamtomlin2781 cheers mate! 👍👍🪓

@@adamtomlin2781 gday mate cheers for watching, yep for 150 for a new, complete axe I'd recommend the 1.2 Hultafors, good value and one of the best allrounders on the market. I'd file the edge to around 20 degrees and thin the handle a bit. The little Husky can do some work for a small axe but the 1.2 or 1.5 are a fair step up in performance 👍🪓🪓🇦🇺

@@kurts64 thanks mate been meaning to comment for a few videos now you’ve got some serious fitness/ability I’m hoping to buck some 100-150mm timber into more manageable pieces for firewood whilst we roadtrip for a bit of fitness and fun in stead of using a chainsaw. i’ve already bought a few whetstones and have a file so I’ll look into the 1.2 or 1.5. Cheers from WA aus mate

@@jamesnelson1443 cheers mate, it's become a favourite 🪓🪓👍

@@jamesnelson1443 cheers mate! 👍🪓🪓

@@tedmartin5402 good stuff mate they're a cool axe👍👍🪓

@@SteveSmith-zz4ih gday mate, wow that's a nice find! Great axe, I love mine but to buy another is getting pretty exxy. They're a pretty sought after head these days, if your keen on selling I'd suggest the Australian Axe Forum group on Facebook, but if your after a user axe for yourself, then there's not many better than a KC23! Great score. Cheers mate! 👍🪓🇦🇺

@@kurts64 Thanks Kurt, i will check out the FB forum.i have too many axes about 35, usual suspects and a few broad, double headers, a couple of blacksmith (unbranded) axes and a "True Temper Bell" which was used by Linesman putting through Power in the USA. It has a long longer handle.

@@Ripplefisher57 gday mate, cheers for watching, nah I don't sell pre-made sheaths, I've found there's often enough differences in vintage axes that for the sheath design I use, they've gotta be custom made. Don't be worried about leatherwork though, if your in Aus there's a few good leather shops that stock all the bits, and it's a good learning process. Engineered For Axemen, Tuatahi, and Helko all sell a general purpose sheath that should fit a Craftsman if you want something pre made. Cheers mate, good luck with the restoration 👍👍🪓

@@devinmoran59 gday mate, the green hytest, the lamaca and the tui see the most use out of this lot. The lamaca is nice for processing smaller trees but lacks in splitting, the tui swings nice and spits chips well but can be a bit thick, the Hytest is a happy medium between the two. Cheers for watching! 👍 🪓🪓

@@Kiltedwoodsmith Nice, mate! What are you gunna get?

@@kurts64 Cyclone

Gday James good on ya mate! Much appreciated 👍 That's a fair move from WA to Tassie, beaut part of the world though, Tassies on my bucket list for sure. Thanks again mate🇦🇺🪓🪓

Gday mate, yep it's still going, and cheers for watching! Feel free to use the hash tag, and check out the vids by the other folks who participated. The Indiana Doug channel has a playlist and I believe the Wolly's World channel as well. Sucks about PTSD man I hope your doin alright 👍👍🪓 Great YT name too btw 😀

@@kurts64 Thank you Brother. some Days are Better then others But I will Not QUIT

@@Kiltedwoodsmith good on ya mate💪👍👍

That's awesome mate! I wasn't real keen on em at first but I've found they're a pretty handy tool to have in the arsenal. The HB 1.2 is one of the first axes I'd replace if I lost em all. Cheers for subscribing man, hopefully more vids up soon👍👍🪓

Gday mate, they are a nice axe for sure but yep gettin pretty pricey these days! 👍👍🪓

🤣🤣 cheers mate! 👍👍🪓

Gday mate, an axe is usually sticky because of either: the cheeks are too flat from heel (bottom) to toe (top) behind the grind; or, not enough relief/hollow between the ground edge and the eye. That's often why (apart from racing axes), vintage axes tend to perform better than new ones - most vintage axes tend to have a high centreline (swelling in the middle of the cheeks) to both lift the wood chip and minimise friction in the cut. Thanks for watching mate! 👍👍🪓🪓

@@kurts64 awesome, makes sense, thanks mate.

Gday mate, thanks a lot man, glad ya like the vids and are getting some shed time! Good on ya mate! 👍👍🪓🪓

Thanks alot mate, much appreciated! But this was actually a fresh fallen tree, down less than a week at that point, so was probably about as soft as Spotted gum gets. Aussie hardwood, makes ya work for it that's for sure! 🥵 Cheers Tim 👍👍🪓

@@kurts64 wow. I should be used to being wrong by now, but it looked like it's been there a while..Either way it's hard work and I appreciate your ability.

Thanks a lot mate!👍👍🪓

Gday, hultafors and Muller both make great axes but both of those might be a bit thin to use for splitting (the current production Hultafors Agdor Tasmanian patterns are much thinner than the vintage ones). If your keen on a new axe, I'd look at the Helko Tasmanian 1.8kg or maybe the Hultafors Agdor Yankee/Dayton pattern in 1.5 or 1.8kg. All these new axes will need some degree of sharpening and handle tuning. If your happy to go a vintage axe and tune it yourself, Hytest, Brades, Elwell, Gilpin, or Plumb all make a good allrounder tassie. 👍👍🪓

@@kurts64 cheers, me mum has an old rusty Tassie pattern axe in her shed she used to split Jarrah with all the time. Was thinking from pics the only issue with the Hultafors may be that it's too thin in comparison. I found the 1.5Kg Yankee Agdors pretty cheap, so they're tempting. I do find restoring things a fun challenge. Grind, sand, polish, reprofile etc on something like a Kelly Dandenong or Hytest Challenger/Craftsman. There's a few ok heads out there I'm watching with minimal pitting. Thanks 👍

Thanks a lot mate, much appreciated!👍👍🪓🪓

Agreed, mate! For an axe of its size and use, it's hard to fault. And still going strong. Cheers!👍👍🪓🪓

I'll get my hands on one one day! They're a beauty axe for sure🪓 🪓

Cheers mate! Nah I've never tried a Wax 1 or 2 model, they seem like a nice one though 👍👍🪓

They are very similar to the dandenong, slightly thicker Profile.

Cheers Adam 👍👍🪓

Gday mate, cheers. Most of my axes, including this one, have Engineered For Axemen hickory handles. They've just started producing handles in beech and spotted gum as well I believe. Some other brands worth checking out are Van Diemen/Chris Hadley, and Bush Skills Australia/Jimmy Findlay as well. Should be able to find these guys on Facebook. Cheers mate👍👍🪓🇦🇺

@@kurts64 thanks Kurt. I will check them out.