Overloading is needed for 3-20 minutes . For cheap power banks, the overloading is needed for 3 minutes, the fast charging turns on. For brandy devices and car chargers the overloading has to last for 20 minutes to turn on the fast charging. You can overload with powerful 6 V bulbs . By default, when you buy such items, some trouble happens. It skips charging, the charging stops, or drains too quickly. With the overloading trick you permanently fix the trouble. If the device is stolen, it gets to a blacklist in 1 and a half year, and you have to get rid of it.

I can see it through my naked eye... why is that?

Finally someone mentioning that heating is a one time process. I was looking for this answer for a while now.

For loads of 50 mA or less, the linear regulator may still be the better choice. Many of the switchmode (buck) converters pull nearly that much current, even without a load. For loads exceeding 100 mA, the switching regulator will be much more efficient.

You can't calculate the power consumption like that. For the LVR it's (Vin - Vout) * Iout. For your circuit it's about 3W not 5W. The same for the buck converter except it's a bit more complicated. It approximates to Iout x Vout x (1 - efficency). Assuming 85% efficency then it uses about 0.3W. So the buck converter uses 10x less power, not 2x as you say in the video.

Thank you! It helped me good at soldering on display if they need to be soldered

One thing i hate about buck converter is that when its faulty the output voltage became similar to input and my cause other circuit break

Thanks

Has anyone done this with the WR1043ND v4 version? How are the pins located there as the board is different to the version in this video? Is it necessary to solder a wire across R257 and why? Just getting random ANSI chars in putty...

how would you do this but invert it - if its dark led is full bright - if its light the led goes dim

filmed remote with phone camera ~ worked a treat ❀

Great information. I cleaned my CPU suppy . Thanks for great work

I replaced the old 4,8V NiCd Battery in a RC-Toy Car, with a modern Li-Ion 7,4V Battery Pack (Sony NP-F style). Then used a Buck-Converter to get the Voltage down to 5V. Now my remote can only control the car I am 1m (3feet) radius. So you say the buck converter interferes with the 27,125MHz receiver in the car? Can I somehow get rid of that problem using a capacitor? I don’t have space for a big heatsink. Or could I use a linear converter to „convert“ 5V from the buck converter to 5V for the car?

Can i use thi for tp link tl mr3220 v1?

thanks for the video!

⚡🧞 thanks

Excellent instructional Video

Thank you so much, simple and easy to understand, 2 thumbs up!!

thank you sir! Very helpful video

Going to need this soon. Thank you for making such a clear and helpful guide!

Very good, thanks.

What does the copper grease do? Makes it spin smoother?

Legendary video. Still useful until today.

You mentioned there is heat issue for linear voltage converter. How about to use ceramic substrate PCB inside it and help better heat dissipation? Then it might not need heat sink.

someone say i need to connect CH_PD or EN pin to GND, but i can't find it in my Wemos D1 R1 board. turn out Reset pin to GND also works, Thanks!

How to mitigate fumes?

I always have issues with the adjustable pot. Can I desolder that and just put a resistor in its place?

That little plastic washer that you removed from the center shaft seemed to nearly fall off of your blower shaft. I'm having trouble removing my washer. Your video was great, but glossed over a difficult part of this disassembly.

Is it possible to use an LCD as a replacable display for a worn out VFD please? I can send pictures I have of what I could find for the FIP16A5R VFD in my S-550 service notes and what I'm trying to do with replacing the old VFD with an LCD. Please let me know if this would work or not I'll email pictures to show what I mean too

Why use those two capacitors? Do you always need to add capacitors for this voltage regulator when you want to step down voltage?

I'm so late to the party here ... but let me have a go. Infrared radiation is *not* heat. If it was, then infrared cameras and googles would be useless until the target had changed its heat enough to contrast against background heat; it'd be pretty easy to fool such a system. This confused me a bit too, but it's yet another example of the explanations that we give to children, not necessarily being ... "true". More like, they're close enough to explain the concept, without having to be utterly confusing. Infrared radiation, or photons if that word is scary, is the wavelength of the photons emitted by some material, at a certain heat; it's not really seeing heat then but photons that are energised at a different level! If you consider that if it's a warm day, and you've just run for a long time, then it takes what feels like ages to cool down, and the opposite, in a cold area and you're not wearing the best clothing, it can take forever to start to feel warm, or you might never feel warm ... but the infrared camera can still see you instantly - so the Infrared light it detects is not a function of heat dissipation.

Nice video, thanks :)

I’m building a bench power supply which will have a linear regulator with a switching buck pre-regulator. This hybrid design is supposed to combine the advantages of each. Or compromise the disadvantages depending on how you looks at it. We’ll see how it works.

What if i use a buck converter to get close to 5v, then use a linear voltage regulator to clean up the voltage? Would that be effective? Would it still be a waste? Edit: just found my answer as a suggestion below, thanks!

Thanks so much, I couldn't find any other info on this :)

Thanks man🤟🏼

It is IR light but we do not sense it as thermal radiation. That can't be. It must be something else.

As others have said, hepa filter is the way to go, however the best design is a fan positioned above with some kind of hood so the fan does not in anyway cool your solder iron. Smoke naturally flows up, hits the hood where the fan is and then gets sucked away. So far you have pc fans sucking air.

Thank you for this great tutorial, so detailed and understandable. Have done this work via PL2303HX USB TTL. Cheap board and simple solution.

Thank you friend, I asked including chatGPT, it just says calibrate, thank you for your simple and understandable explanation. Can I do the same operations on MQ-135?

I need the mq 131 and the mq135 for our research

Thank you very much, sir! I managed to issue a new lease on life on my WR1043ND V1.8 ( YB 2008, acq. 2012 ) which I had reflashed with DD-WRT before. It was solid, but acted kinda flaky and I started to question its reliability. As a consequence it layed in a box in my attic for several years as I went for another router. Recently I dug it out, and gave it a try with delicate precaution and triple-checking the boot start and end values of the flash cell. Got it on the first attempt, and now it's recommissioned in my home network as a wireless host. TP-Link dropped support long time ago, so it's high time for security improvement. And there we have it: A router from 2008 running OpenWRT 23.05.0 happily. Bonus: It comes with WPA3 which is quite remarkable and interesting.

How do you add more reference resistors?

Man have i told you about how have fun with people that use light spectrum technology ❤

Thank you for making the regulator simple for me to understand. I always wondered how they work.

Excellent bro❤❤

In a situation where one needs both 12 volts to power LEDs or a relay, but also needs 5v for CMOS logic, do you think an LM7805 would be appropriate since it wouldn't heat up very much since the CMOS chips don't consume much power?

I guess if your only goal is to keep the fumes from going up your nose, it's a success, but if you want to get the harmful particles from lead and flux (I think it's the rosin) fumes, you have to go through a carbon filter (for the smell only) and a HEPA filter (for the nasty particles smaller than 3-5 microns). Also, the fumes cause way more worse things than asthma, it crystalizes your lungs for one, along with lead poisoning!

Very interesting. So in a practical sense, would it make sense to use a buck converter to charge various devices from a car battery?

Although good information provided here, but calculation of power??? Why are you multiplying the whole 12 volts, regulator provides 5 volts at output for load, only drops 7 volts across itself, 7 X 420mA will get you the correct value