On the Mazda 6 this mechanical setup was replaced with a much easier software solution. You just need to hold the button down until the window reaches the bottom + 2-3 seconds more, then hold the button up until the window reaches the top + 2-3 seconds more, and after that, everything should be ok. This is the procedure to learn the min/max states of the window, and it needs to be done every time you remove the car battery.

Well, you can make yourself a free Mazda Diagnostics port to OBD2 adapter cable. The GF uses K-Line (ISO 9141-2) protocol, marked as MEN on the Diagnostics port. If you do have this pin, then you are good to go. A quick search on the Internet shows this as a result automehanix.ru/cars/raspinovka-mazda-17-pin Hope that helps ;)

@@Mazda626GF I have tried that but sadly with no success, even acquired an OBD2 scanner from a reputable company that lists support for the protocol but I couldn't get it to connect. I might give it another go, thanks for the link.

@@jakov175 Odd. Maybe yours is still using the old J1850 standard. Try that.

@@Mazda626GF So I've checked again, and my diagnostic connector does not have the "TEN" or K Line PIN, and I've been unable to establish communication on the J1850 protocol, I connected the + and - of the protocol pins and the the power to the reader but the reader stays unresponsive, does not even start up so I'm not sure what's up with that. I wonder if it requires pulling up or down additional pins to force it to boot up. 12V is present on the power pin.

Interesting. Is the ECU/PCM Ford EEC-V? If so, the TEN on the diagnostics port should be pin 5 on the PCM (brown with black cable) and MEN should be pin 79 on the PCM (yellow with black cable). TEN can be used to enter the really old school LED diagnostics mode, as well as adjusting the base idle, while MEN is the K-Line.

Yep, still working, though I'm not driving the car much. But when I do, I do not have any complains. Since I avoid snow and rain nowadays (to preserve the car), the only time I have troubles with the parking sensor is right after car wash.

Thanks for the fast reply! Really helpful!

Hello. I have no idea about the GE. I used to have one, but that was prior becoming a "car guy". Sorry.

@@Mazda626GF Well that sucks, but thanks for answering 👍

Hello. Unfortunately, no. Thankfully, the problem with those remotes is the button, it wears off in time. Find a guy that can change the button (which costs cents), that is both the best and the cheapest solution ;)

@@Mazda626GFI already resoldered it, seems like a short somewhere because when I teach the car to the remote, it works fine for some time, but after 10 mins or so it just randomly does stuff.. and drains the battery. probably gonna find a scrapped 626 and buy it's remote, this is the 2nd remote that died, going for the 3rd one :D But thank you for your answer I appreaciate it

Hello, unfortunately I'm still struggling with remotes, would it be possible to buy one from you maybe? Best regards

@@iskiadam7877 I do not have a free one, but I can see what is available in the junk yards around here. Give me your email (you can remove it afterwards, to prevent spam bots from spamming you) and let's continue the conversation there ;)

It's the same as my username, but instead of 7877 type 24, and its a gmail account so you know the rest

Still here, I'm just occupied with other stuff. Life, you know, things happen :/

2001

No, that will overload the electrical system at some point. It is even written in the car's user manual, to open/close one window at a time only. I know you can close all of them manually, but there is a reason why the manufacturer say not to do it - it won't last much.

Well, the wheel should fit on an MX-6, but I have no idea about the airbag.

@@Mazda626GF thanks for the help and happy new year!!

@@FactorJB Thanks, you too ;)

Yes, it will just timeout for the other two channels.

Thank you, Happy New Year

@@TheDjorder Thanks, you too ;)

I have the same issue with 3rd, but it is not related to the short shifter - I opened the gearbox and I saw a lot of wearing on the teeth.

@@Mazda626GF oh, okay, well mine started making the noise after the installation, i read from the internet that it's the synchro but it shouldn't be harmful

And also it makes that sound because the shifter is now pushing the synchro closer to the gear which makes noise

@@migeez6571 Well, turn up the music and it will all go away. That's what my father does and it seems to be working :D Jokes aside, I do not have this issue and it might be due to short shifter manufacturing tolerances, different wearing levels of our gearboxes or just different gearbox all together. I'm running with the 2.0 FS HP gearbox, as seen on another video of mine.

@@Mazda626GF yea, i have the 2.0 fs originally in my mazda and i think i should try to modify the shifter to make it bit "less short shifting" so that the sound would go away, but i'm going to do that in the summer, i live in Finland and it's cold here and i hate working on cars at winter and i don't even have any garages or anything like that so it sucks so imma do the not so necessary things in the summer. Btw, where did you get the spoiler from your car? Was it there already when you got it? I have hatchback aswell and i thought spoiler would look nice but i can't find them anywhere

No idea, sorry. I'm just a hobby guy, not a professional.

Interesting! Which GH engine? How do you plan to deal with the drive by wire throttle body?

Unfortunately, 323 documentation is hard to find, so I cannot tell you if there is a special method for it. I'm pretty sure it is the same, though, as it is easier for dealers to program new keys. I also think that 323 is not using 8C transponders, so maybe this is your problem. What I advise you to do is go to a locksmith and ask him to identify the transponder on one of the 2 working keys you already have.

I bought T5 socket LED bulbs from AliExpress. Their light is stronger and more focused, so the end result is not very uniform lighting, but they have a lot better lifespan. You can buy regular T5 bulb, if you prefer.

Sorry, I do not speak Spanish.

Sorry, no idea. It sounds like you will need an adapter plate, as there is no 6 speed gearbox ever made for those engines and you will need to use a gearbox from another engine.

Scarp yard, with a lot of luck :/ it will be easier to go to a guy that does that for a living and he will make it for you. It will not be cheap, but anyhow you will not find second hand in a good condition and you will again need to visit him.

@@Mazda626GF and one more question. Whats about seatings from Mazda 6 2002-2006, is that fit into my car? Thanks. Obs. My Mazda 626 1999 I mean.

@@black_phantom No, they are different shapes with different folding mechanisms and ISOFIX. And they have a big downside, in my opinion - they do not have a ski hole on the rear arm rest.

Diesel engines are not supported by this Touring Computer :/

@@Mazda626GF but if I gonna install the other one which is shows both temperature and clock. It's gonna work or not ? Thanks.

@@black_phantom Do you have manual air conditioning or automatic?

@@Mazda626GF automatic

Well, there is nothing impossible, but this will be hard. The electronic one has additional sensors and actuators, so different wiring. To install one you will need to get it with the wiring (or at least the connectors), the sensors and the actuators. It is even possible the heater unit itself is different, since then manual one is cable actuated, where the automatic one is wire actuated, so there is a difference on how you mount the cable vs the electric actuator. For sensors you will need Refrigerant pressure switch, Ambient temperature sensor, Solar radiation sensor, Cabin temperature sensor, Water temperature sensor and Evaporator temperature sensor. And probably there is something I'm missing, since I've never done this. Hope that helps!

@@Mazda626GF thanks for the delightful answer, but yea, that will be too hard for me so i sadly have to scrap that idea

Is this a facelift? If so, measure the voltage on the blue cable going into the keyless entry unit. When locking, the voltage should drop in half, while when unlocking it should drop to 0V. It is a fast drop, so you will need a fast multimeter or an oscilloscope. On the pre-facelift, it should be the same, but I do not know the cable color. If the voltages are good, then the module is okay and the problem is elsewhere. It is best if you can actually perform this operation with the blue cable removed from the module (measure directly on the pin), as this is a common network between the keyless entry unit, instrument cluster, door lock unit and door cylinder switches, so if any of those are malfunctioning, or as in my case in the video, some corrosion on the door connector, you might get fooled.

@@Mazda626GF it's a 1999 so I guess that makes it a facelift? Rare car in UK now, they all seem to have disappeared

@@neilwalsh4058 1999 is at the border. It could be either of these. You can actually tell by looking at pictures in on the internet - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Capella#Sixth_generation_(1997-2002)

Unfortunately, yes. They spread the light that the projector had focused before that, leaving you with no line and how knows where the light goes.

@@Mazda626GF oh, okay.

Hey, mate. The software is not free, so I cannot share it, but I'm sure you can find it on the internet ;) Here is a working link for the shifter: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005663911195.html

@@Mazda626GF thank you, i appreciate the work you do for us 626 owners!!

I do not have wiring diagrams for that car, but chances are it will work. I cannot guarantee, though.

But it diesnt need to be obd2 compatible right

Nope, diagnostics (OBD) has nothing to do with it. The way windows are wired has ;)

According to the documentation I have, it should be L/W (blue with white), but it should be shielded wire with the shield being B/O (black with orange).

Hello. Yep, that is the only thing I did not show in the video. This is because there is a high chance to break the mirror while doing it, so I did not want to risk it again, sorry. Basically, it is a 2-person job. 1 person needs to hold the mirror steady, while the other presses hard on the spring. Probably there is a tool for that, but since I did not have that, I needed to use brute force. And believe me, it really was a BRUTE force. I was the one holding the mirror, as I'm only 75 kg, while my father, a 150 kg man, pressed with all his weight, and we managed to release the spring easily. Putting it back on was the challenge! 150 kg force were barely enough. I still have marks on the mirror from the terror we did to it! I can only wish you good luck!

@@Mazda626GF Thanks, man! I bought two left mirrors, I will train on one of them! I disassembled it completely, pulled out the wiring and gears. It remains only to remove the spring ... Do you think it is possible to use a device for removing valve springs?

I'm sure there was a device to take those apart, back in the day. Now, probably not :/

@@Mazda626GF , bro, it's me again... I need your help! I removed the spring and saw a circle in which two square holes were cut. An iron plate is inserted into these holes, on which 2 balls roll. Do I understand correctly that these square slots need to be expanded? From one side only or both sides?

Can you give me a link to a picture? It was a long time ago and I need a picture to refresh my memory and to better understand you. Also, it is possible the Capella mirror to be different than the brand-new non-original mirror I installed.

Welcome to the club ;) you can make yourself ODB1 to OBD2 cable - it is easy. Just search on Google (sorry, I'm on the move now). As for the manuals - there are 2 sites - mazdabg ftp and pmx626. Enjoy ;)

@@Mazda626GF Tks for the tips! Keep the good work!

Nope, that is a function of the instrument cluster itself. He is the one controlling the lights when at DOOR position.

​@@Mazda626GF ok thanks for your help your mazda 626 has many functions that i would like to have in mine

Should I also buy the light switch with the original mazda 6 connector or the 626 one will it work for you?

Mazda 6 GG facelift. Connector is the same, but you will need to pull new wires, so you will need new pins, thus better grab it with the Mazda 6 connector ;)

​@@Mazda626GF If I buy the mazda 6 light knob, it is only to remove the one from the 626 and put the one from M6 adding the cables that I see in the video?

Yes, that is all. Just make sure you get the facelift version, as the pre-facelift will not work ;)

​@@Mazda626GF In Colombia the M6 ​​first series came out from 2004 and the second series from 2007 to 2009 and looking at your recommendation the "M6 GG" in my country would be the first series if you could give me a link to see exactly what It is the model that serves the 626

Well, I never managed to remove and then put back those needles :/ I tried a few times, and now I just know - don't touch them :D I would love if you figure out how to do it and let us all know!

No, I do not have. But I can tell you that the car looks normal, not even high ;)

​@@Mazda626GF Thanks :)

You should never test without the glass - here is nothing to limit the motor and your setting gets out of line again. Always adjust, assemble everything and then test. Never before that.

​@@Mazda626GF hello, very kind, the automatic system was perfect, I ask you where you live, can you get accessories for the mazda 626 and very good videos, greetings from Colombia🎉

I'm from Bulgaria. Accessories are not being sold here, only parts. And not all parts, but I can still manage. Second hand parts also are almost gone. Soon I'll have to start fabricating parts to keep the car running. How is in Columbia? Are there parts there?

​@@Mazda626GF greetings here in colombia you can only get engine parts and not all and 2 hand accessories but the model 626 colombia the interior is a little different from the one you have The digital air conditioning control is very interesting. I would like to be able to find one

It is common in Europe. It is either this "Automatic climate control unit" or a manual one. Only the unit will not be sufficient for you - you also need sensors. There are 3 sensors, 2 of which for sure do not exist for the manual one, while the 3rd maybe is available. You may have an outside temperature sensor already - right in front of your climate control radiator, under the hood. But the other 2 you probably do not have - inside temperature sensor (next to the steering column) and sunlight intensity sensor (close to the front glass, on the driver side). Without those sensors, the climate control will not be able to properly work on Auto, but I guess it should work if you use it manually.

Hi. Sorry, I have no idea how F150 works. I'm not a professional, I just have lots of experience with Mazda vehicles.

Sorry, I do not speak Spanish :(

@@Mazda626GF friend, how are you? I have a mazda 626 in Colombia and it has the same problem with the window and if you could explain to me the step by step to be able to solve it

​@@alexandravilla276 1. Remove the lifting mechanism out of the door, but keep it connected to the buttons. 2.Adjust the lifter to be almost at the top (holes should not exceed 3cm of from the studs). 3. Stick a needle in the hole as I show it on the video. 4. Move the lift all the way down. 5. Assemble everything back. Depending on how well you did step 2, there are 3 possible outcomes: 1. Everything works perfectly (if you did exactly 3cm). 2. Window doesn't reach the top and still auto-returns (if you did less than 3cm). Just keep repeating auto-up until it fixes itself. 3. Window closes, but then it opens again (if you did more than 3cm). You didn't do it properly. Start again from step 1. Hope that helps!

Wrong tire size. What does it say on your tires? Are they all the same?

@@Mazda626GF theyre all the same size and what it should have, could it be a worn clutch?

No. The VSS of the 626 is either calculated by the ABS (if you have one) or there is a VSS sensor on the gearbox (if no ABS). Since both methods are after the clutch, slipping clutch will not result in wrong speed shown by the instrument cluster. Most 626 have ABS and if a sensor fails, you will get ABS, parking brake and both TCS indicators lid all the time. If you do not have those, then it's either wrong wheel size or bad IC. The IC has a build-in "input/output" mode. Search in Google and you will find the procedure. In it there is a check for VSS that will show if IC is functioning properly or not.

@@Mazda626GF right thank you man

​@@Mazda626GF hey sorry,you know the little display above the radio that has a clock and a temperature? Instaling a radio the other day it stoped working,where is its fused located?

It should, but I do not have one to confirm.

Keyless Entry Unit is a separate module from the Door Lock Unit. Keyless is near the glove box, while the Door Lock (responsible for the central locking even with a key) is next to the turn lights relay, under the steering shaft. I do not know if there were 626 versions sold without Keyless entry, but it definitely is possible. For a 626 without a keyless entry to gain that function, you'll need to add the Keyless Entry Unit to the car first and then program the remotes. Without the keyless unit the learning procedure will not even start.

@@Mazda626GF definitely my diesel version just have the conector to the keyless unit. What do you think, shouls I find a keyless unit + remotes or try with an aftermarket unit? Thanks a lot for all your videos and investigations

Well, it depends on how much time and money you want to invest and your personal preference. If you choose to source OEM parts you take a chance it is going to work and if it doesn't, you'll need to spend time to figure it out and even then there is no guarantee. But having and OEM part + do it yourself gets you more respect in my book ;) Aftermarket should work and if someone installs it for you, it'll be easy. Both methods may end with the same amount of money, depending on how hard is it to get OEM parts and how many attempts you do at doing it yourself with the OEM parts.

@@Mazda626GF I would like the OEM which I found for another diesel in the same year, ge4t675d2. However, I do not know what is the remote model number associated to that keyless unit. But it encourages me to know that is so easy to make remote copies in case of any remote get loss. If i do not find it I'll go for after market ones.thx

GE4T is a pre-facelift - make sure your car is also pre-facelift. If so, then learning procedure is different from the one of the facelift, but I've shown both in the video. To figure out the needed remote - on the keyless entry unit itself there should be a marking "Model No:" and some numbers - those numbers should match the numbers on the remote (I do not know how remotes on pre-facelift look, but either on the remote shell or on the PCB itself you should find them).