If The Part Too Big for 3D Print - Fusion 360 Season 2 EP6

[@jmunkki]

I would recommend cutting both parts and printing a third piece that connects them. Why? If your fit is too tight or too loose, you change the connecting part and keep the big prints as is. Saves a lot of plastic and print time (or sanding time). As far as hole/peg shapes go, a square rotated 45° prints with easy overhangs and the connecting piece is just a square profile extrusion that can be printed really strong. Same thing for the dovetails: slots in both parts and an hourglass third part to connect them.

[@RinksRides]

you need to over/undersize your interlocking parts by the amount of your layer height. Assuming your 3D printer is well tuned for extrusion and acceleration.

[@jmunkki]

Michael Rinkle Depends on the filament too. I finally ran out of some cheap black PLA and switched to a Prusa PLA. The Prusa filament printed a lot more accurately. I post some of my models on MyMiniFactory, so it makes sense to offer variations of the connecting pieces. Or, in the case of the square peg, the user can just scale the peg if the fit isn’t right.

[@mikeneron]

Yep this is the way I would do it as well. I would sketch on the face where they join and make a cut into one body. Then project onto the other face and make the cut into the other body. Then finally make the connector piece with tolerances applied to it. Like was said if it's too tight or loose, you just adjust the tolerance and reprint just the connector which will take just minutes. No need to reprint the actual model parts.

[@zahirkhan778]

Only video out there that is useful when it comes to modifying big parts

[@MicheleHjorleifsson]

Would have been great to see how you add the tolerances quickly after making the joins

[@enginebill]

I have split a part by drawing a spline curve on an offset plane that is above the part and then using the spline to cut the body. That makes it easy to assemble and glue together with no need for tenons or dovetails.

[@chuckpickering6040]

Lars, thank you so much. This is absolutely brilliant! I 3d print a lot of designs for casting patterns. These ideas will help in making split patterns and multipart patterns for sand casting in aluminum. I would never have thought to use combine with a cut!

[@jarrod-smith]

I love all your 3D printing - oriented content. Thank you! As an aside I have used dovetails before and they work really well. I find that a tolerance of around the width of your printer's nozzle is a good starting point to get you close to good fitment of the parts.

[@brendanowen7563]

Another great video Lars. I know you mentioned the tolerances, but you are going to have a hard time joining those pieces after a 3D print. A quick fix is select the join faces of one body after the cut and press pull them about -0.4mm. Another thing worth mentioning about the joins, design them so they can print without supports for a cleaner join. In general they should only have up too 45 degree overhangs.

[@QuinnHale]

Great video. I will add my own tip, for what it's worth. The dovetail joint is great. Instead of making the initial break point straight vertical, I would create it at a slight angle. Then I'd add the dovetail, etc. This is an old trick I learned when I was a teenager helping out my stepfather with cabinet making and general woodworking. The angled split line helps to hide the break a bit better, and gives you more surface area to glue back together. If you want to get real fancy you could angle that line on two planes instead of just one.

[@michaelbarbone9310]

Wow. This was much easier to combine than another video I watched. Question, will the dovetail joint be enough to combine the pieces or would I have to glue the parts together?

[@cowboyigor7074]

As always your Tutorials are a pleasure and interesting to watch Lars. Keep it real as always. No wonder Autodesk has you as a teacher.

[@cadcamstuff]

Thank you! Happy you find the content useful 👍😊

[@3dgussner958]

Nice tips, it may be difficult to print these joints on a 3D printer. I try to use geometries that don't have an huge overhang, like 3 or 4 side pyramids.

[@TheHackPig]

Super awesome. You always find a way to show me new functions to make my life easier. Glad you are back Lars!

[@jamessturgeon7025]

Great tutorial! This one is sort of a “classic” to refer back to again and again. Really clear explanation of a very useful technique.

[@gunzi2269]

So glad to see you back on YT!

[@terryevans1976]

Really, really, helpful. Thank you!!!

[@bliksemdonder5624]

Each time I watch a video of yours I learn something new or an easier way to do the same thing. Keep 'em coming!

[@cadcamstuff]

Awesome 👍😊

[@mordinkainen1844]

Thanks for posting this Lars!

[@chrisleech1565]

Bravissimo. Three lessons in one upload. Newest nickname "the hammer" for just nailing it!

[@steamn51]

Excellent, have learnt so much Lars since I started watching a year ago when I got a 3d printer, so much to learn, thank you. Regards Andy

[@rigfix]

Thanks Lars for a great video. There is another method that I would like to share. I usually extrude holes on both parts, and when I assemble the parts I uses a pice of tube/rod that fit between the holes. This gives good strength and guidance. I don't care too much about tolerances when I print the holes, I just trim them with a drillbit after printing. I have used this many times and always with good results.

[@cadcamstuff]

Thank you for sharing 👍😊

[@Ralphlac]

I do something like that as well for some of my larger prints. In some automotive and "stressed" applications I'll screw in a piece of all-thread for a little "C.Y.A."

[@MadeWthRealChz]

Lars, thanks for this. I’ve got a part sitting in Fusion that I need to split to print and the dovetail is a perfect solution. I didn’t think of it at first. It’ll work great!

[@cadcamstuff]

Awesome 👍😊

[@Gtrlac43]

Thank you for making this so easy! You are awesome

[@FnOTradingLearner]

This is exact feature addition suggestion by me. Just cut with join option with all join possibilities as snap fit etc etc.. which requires particularly box creation time for lid.

[@RickSpeer]

Every time I watch one of your videos I see something I could have used in the past. Don't ever leave us again! :-P :-)

[@PetePanaia]

3 different methodologies to work with. Simple, but effective! Cool stuff! This has instantly made the Combine tool much more useful to me. Also, I did not know how/why I wanted to use "Interference" command. Thank you Lars!

[@RVJimD]

Really good! You present this information at a very good pace and make it easy to understand! Thanks! Jim

[@ristorinne5817]

Very usefull tutorial. Thank you, Lars.

[@cadcamstuff]

Great to hear 👍😊Thank you for watching

[@KernsJW]

Great video 4th option would be to model a 3rd body which would be an insert in the two main tools. Its useful when you don't want overhangs. However, you may need supports in the holes. The bump out object you create for option 1 can also be a sphere, a bit like option 2, to reduce angles/ overhangs enough to prevent a need for supports.

[@JamescHowe]

Great work Laura, I reakon the final dovetail joint is going to be the easiest and most acomidating for this design. The other option that would be easiest to accomplish could be some slots and biscuits. (not sure how strong they would be though)

[@swschh]

vertical slots are easy to print. cut strips out of plastic containers as biscuits. it will probably strengthen the print as the "undirected" molded plastic takes load off the layers.

[@airrun76]

Lars, your new videos are fantastic. This really helped me with a current design I'm doing. Thank you.

[@AviationNNO]

Great Video! The only missing last step is showing how to accommodate for manufacturing tolerances between the two mating volumes. Either reduce the male mate volume by 0.2mm offset or increase the female cavity volume by 0.2mm, for example. Can that be done easily with a single step or a single operation? You mentioned there is another video regarding this, for 3D printing in particular. It will be great if you could add a link to that video in the description or within the video itself. Thank you for this excellent and concise presentation.

[@alexantonov4129]

You can use press-pull to easily move selected faces, change any diameters or add fillets.

[@AviationNNO]

Alex Antonov will try it. Thank you!

[@eeledahc]

Thanks Lars, I was trying to figure out how to cut out a section for an elbow in an arm so that it could bend and this is what I needed.

[@ali-sleimanchehade6129]

Amazing! Easy and right on point but please can you talk more about tolerance? I’m trying to pint my model on a SLS machine from PCBway and it is going to coast me a lot coz it a very big part I need to make 100% sure it will fit perfectly with maximum strength! And if you have any information about PA12 nylon and the best glue for it please tel me about it 🙏

[@AnunnakiAaron]

Just what I needed for some 3D printing. Super helpful. Thanks a lot!

[@caswellsubs]

Just what I needed! Thanks!

Thank you for being back!

[@cadcamstuff]

You are so very welcome 😊

[@douglass69]

I'm always going back to your videos, thanks for helping out. I'm getting there : )

[@wellphoto3d]

brilliant solution!

[@scottmiller826]

Awesome! I have been struggling with this! Thank you

[@UnbearableHappyness]

Thank you for this. How would you cut a circular abject with even sections ? Like a giant halo ring and be able to glue them together ?

[@Matt_Vanepps]

This was great Lars! I have been wondering if there was an easy way to do this. I have been doing this manually.

[@musoangelo]

Hey Lars, thanks for that. On the combine cut feature. When you use it, how much clearance is added so the two pieces fit together? Thanks.

[@harsevsingh6596]

This video was sooooooo helpful!!!! Thanks Lars!

[@cadcamstuff]

Awesome. Thank you for watching 👍

[@tedsykora1858]

I wish I had watched this two weeks ago. Spent a lot of time making a part fit on my printer in two pieces.

[@cadcamstuff]

Sorry I did not do it sooner 😁

[@johnbickford9221]

I'm always learning a bit more from you. One question, would drafting the dovetail out towards the bottom make sliding the parts together easier?

[@cadcamstuff]

Yes, I think that could a great tip!! 👍

[@edwinkania5286]

Haas control Panel (Computer) in the background, Nice!

[@2ROLAN2]

Thanks for the video! its a very good info to know for 3D printing!!!

[@cadcamstuff]

You are so very welcome 👍😊

[@cv-gate1]

Awesome video, and even though (IMHO) this is a good approach to the problem it's unlike to solve it. Tolerance issues do exist in every FDM printer. What I do is similar but I always make an inner offset to the sketch. Then, I extrude the inner area in join mode for the "male" body and the inner and outer area in cut mode for the "female" body (sorry for the gender connotations but I don't know a better way to explain it). The offset parameter depends on your nozzle size but I get good results with 0.2 mm offset using a 0.4 nozzle. 0.3 - 0.4 if I'm using a 0.6 nozzle. It also depends on the filament and material dimensional accuracy. Hope this makes sense.

[@cadcamstuff]

Thank you for watching 👍😊and for a great comment

[@EJTechandDIY]

Great as always thanks for the videos always a great time learning

[@peterandrade4313]

Just what I was looking for Lars!! Does it make more sense to be proactive and build your model with multiple bodies versus cutting the model once complete? Just thinking if this would allow easier changes to the model.. Thanks, Peter

[@omarsalem5832]

Very helpful! Thank you!

[@navinbhandari2001]

thanks man..I can actually learn from u.

[@cadcamstuff]

Great to hear. Thank you for watching.

[@navinbhandari2001]

@@cadcamstuff do u offer a patreon service?

[@cadcamstuff]

@@navinbhandari2001 I do not. Autodesk is playing me enough :-)

[@gavin604]

Thanks Larsman for a good video.

[@rogerrawlings4257]

Thank you Lars

[@IBMClynes]

Love your show question what do all the different colors on the timeline indicate the blue the green yellow the orange the black the blue can't find answers anywhere. I realize they all indicate some type of air condition in the drawing but what and how do I fix thank you very much love you show..

[@Aleinux]

Wow, this is very good. For sure I'll be use in my future project

[@sausage5849]

Great stuff, just what I needed!

[@cadcamstuff]

Awesome to hear. Thank you for watching.

[@1607rosie]

Pretty cool Lars !!

[@4funrc11]

Thx. I had trouble with the link to video #188. Maybe it's just me, but if I removed the "s" from "https" it worked.

[@junkyardartistjimpowers4217]

Thanks for your tips.

[@jcjimenez5327]

Hi Lars A little help here I’m having an issue with my offset.. When I try to put in like -wallthinkness or some like -2 it want let me click ok I would need to punch it in manually And clues on what could be the problem??? Any info would help... please and thank you Jc

[@iyoutome]

Thanks brother, you are awesome!

[@cadcamstuff]

You are so very welcome 👍😊And thank you

[@avejst]

Nice trick, love it Thanks for sharing😀😀👍

[@Supercazzola]

Lars, I thought you had to turn off design history capture in order to do the mesh to brep conversion ? But it seems you turned it back on. Can you please explain ?

[@AllanElkaim]

Once the conversion is done you can turn the history back on :)

[@kkaround]

Another great simplify video. Can you please make a video to show how to design from picture/photo? (if you have it already please refer me to your previous video.)

[@trialnterror]

What is that box with the screen in the background?

[@willierants5880]

Can you elaborate on which box you are talking about?

[@trialnterror]

WillieRants it’s the silver box with the H on it and has a handle with a led screen and dials. Has a square grill with little squares in the grill! What is it?

[@willierants5880]

@@trialnterror Ah I see what you are talking about now. I have no idea what it is. I thought you were talking about something within F360. LOL

[@cadcamstuff]

It is a Haas CNC control simulator. Used most in education where the students can test the g-code before going out to the CNC machine

[@3dprinting4life10]

Thanks that was extremely useful, regards RobUK

[@cadcamstuff]

Awesome to hear. Thank you for watching 👍😊

[@silverbullet6833]

Thanks Lars just what i wanted to find

[@pfolvig]

Perfect thanks mate.

[@Warpig639]

When I combined my parts I could see the dowell going into the other part but I could not separate them after. Thanks for what you do because I is very helpful. I don’t know if you will see this but if you do my version of 360 is up date. Nov.19 2023.

[@Quignal]

Lars how do you freeze the geometry so clearance can be added between the to bodies?

[@cadcamstuff]

Hopefully this video is helpful kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4W6aGupft-hi8U

[@cengizg8346]

Perfect Thank you

[@gregorpopp4245]

Fantastic can't thank you enough

[@thomasheisler]

say you got a star that you wanted to split and hollow out and want to use peg holes to fasten them together? idea for anyother video I think

[@desmaamv]

awesome video, and it shows with the like to dislike ratio.

[@colorscream]

Very useful. Thanks.

[@3DShay]

Great as always, really learning and enjoying, and wondering how lucky we are to live at a time that such a man like you exist. :)

[@Just_An_Idea_For_Consideration]

Excellent! Thx

[@TheSolderingGuy007]

magical !

[@frankvonthienen3862]

Cool info, tks

[@EEtransmit]

Hi! Love your tutorials. I have a hint for you. In the 3D community there’s a widely misunderstanding about clearances and tolerance. Could you please give a college about this subject and educate us all?!

[@cadcamstuff]

Thank you for watching 👍😊 check this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4W6aGupft-hi8U

[@yalcin1234]

Thank you

[@cadcamstuff]

You are so very welcome 👍😊

[@viniciuscarneiro650]

Lars, pretty good! Thanks mate!

[@cadcamstuff]

You are so very welcome 👍

[@KamilKamil-qf2sl]

Thanks for this video :)

[@cadcamstuff]

You are so very welcome 👍😊

[@riversvic]

I like Sketching a dovetail above the item with the tolerances in the sketch, then extrude the cut through the object. The only downfall is having the dovetail visible on the top of the object instead of just a line.

[@cadcamstuff]

Love it 👍😊

[@spsracing918]

tnx, good presentation

[@trialnterror]

Willierants the box on the top left with the letter H on it.

[@frab88]

thanks a lot!

[@notnancym]

I cannot slect my bodies.... what am i doing wrong?

[@jwkooi]

without a good solution for tolerances, this method is kind of useless. You need to enlarge the cut or shrink the connection part to make it fit even with machined parts. The suggestion to make a third part which is a separate connection part is a solution. In your first method this is a then a kind of a dowel. But maybe you have an other suggestion? Still a great video btw.

[@RentalFloss]

Lars, the link to livestream 188 doesn't seem to be working! :) Thanks for all your hard work man! Du er fucking sej!

[@RentalFloss]

The problem is that the link has a colon on the the end, btw! Just noticed now!

[@michaelreeves91]

This useful , I am trying to break away from 123Design .

[@supervisor1178]

Дуже корисно, як завжди!

[@eduardodanielantuna5768]

Great Master. Bye.

[@mephistovonfaust]

I swear to god... None of these videos show how to actually export these as multiple STL files per part...

[@cadcamstuff]

Sorry for the frustration.

[@raymondhuot1684]

Hi, your video has thought a lot to me but you have the same bad tendency as many in that you you don’t give the time to SEE the damned fonction you just selected! Please, take a little more time to ensure that we have seen the last move you have done. For the rest, it is o.k.

[@yeungmea4681]

Really, really, helpful. Thank you!!!

[@dwaynefong]

Thank you Lars

[@3DPrinterstore24de]

Thank you

[@cadcamstuff]

You are so very welcome 👍😊

[@TheBoguimaraes]

thank you