Dragonscale Layout Tutorial

[@joezera5018]

Very good detail. Thank you

[@DUQUEKayakAngler]

Great vídeo, thanks 🙏🏻

[@jeraanderson8173]

Terrific vid and very well explained info. Got my first wrap right the first try! THANKS!!

[@bobb3rdown676]

Can you use the layout trick to make an 8 axis chevron?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Absolutely you can. Only caveat - this will give you absolutely square chevrons. Sometimes chevrons look better slightly elongated. I hope this helps!

[@Jigjunkyz]

Bill is it possible to do the dragon scale with a mono? Are there any disadvantages over using E size thread? Great video btw!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! You can do them with mono...although I haven't personally tried I know folks who have. The mono is just hard compared to thread - it doesn't compress at all - and is prone to moving around a bit. But give it a try and see what you think...you might like it better than thread. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

[@keithschrader1426]

Great vid, love your ocd approach to the layout. Curious as to where you got the aluminium extrusion for your "lathe" base. Thanks for your willingness to share your artistry.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks so much for watching...please like and subscribe. Okay - keep me honest here because I'm not entirely sure which piece you are inquiring after. The base on this - the lathe bed - is the standard Renzetti Master Rod Lathe bed. Is that what you are looking for? If so you can get them here: www.rdflyfishing.com/collections/rod-lathe/products/bed-extensions If that's not what you are looking for please let me know...but almost all of it is Renzetti original equipment or started life as Renzetti and I modified it.

[@keithschrader1426]

@@masteringrodbuilding thats exactly what i was after, thanks again

[@jacobcollett6206]

So could I use the same concept to lay out a diamond wrap? Or even other wraps iv been researching an some people say do the math or use the down under method? Sry new to all this

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! So...you can use the same layout concept on square diamond wraps IF the blank does not have too much taper and if you are doing an open wrap. For closed wraps or blanks with lots of taper, you really need an offset taper layout. If you really want to learn how do that kind of wrap well, I'd recommend you get Billy Vivona's book Decorative Wraps. I'd also join the NERBS and go to one of their gatherings if you can...you'll learn all you need to know about all types of crosswraps.

[@reeltime1]

Is there a big difference in how the wrap looks when using size D metallic as opposed to using size A?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

To me…yes. I think D looks coarse, lazy and awful, I use size A or smaller metallic and it looks dazzling. It is subjective though…and no accounting for taste. Try a couple test wraps and see what looks better to YOUR eye.

[@reeltime1]

Thanks. I just tried both and size A is definitely the way to go.

[@yesyoucanpaint1089]

To keep the layout threads from slipping, do you put a light coat of CP? Would that help a beginner avoid movement?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Gary Waits I have never had to apply anything. If you get your tension right on the layout threads you can easily wrap over. Hope this helps.

[@YL-mc9oz]

Hi, I have a question that I can not find an answer to and I wanted to consult with you about it if possible. When I measure the measure before I start dividing, sometimes the measure is for example 7 cm, and if I divide the first time it comes out 3.5, the second time 1.75 and the last time 0.875. I circle it to 1 cm, is that okay, because not I get exact squares but more in the direction of rhombuses. Another example: 6.4 cm, first division 3.2, second division 1.6, third division 0.8 and then I circle to 1 cm. I wanted to ask if my path is right and if not, do you have any advice for improvement ? Thanks in advance for your reference

[@masteringrodbuilding]

You are saying centimeters in your question above but I think you mean millimeters? I'm going to answer like you mean millimeters... When your measurements land in between round measurements it is kind of difficult. But you are doing exactly right - do the math and then round up or down to the nearest whole (or half) millimeter. So 5.2mm becomes 5 mm and 7.85mm becomes 8mm. This works great and the layout still appears square. and your measurements so tiny - even that rounding is throwing off your layout and making it not square. Said differently, 0.2mm of rounding doesn't mean much at intervals of 8mm (0.025% rounding), but it's a 25% variance if you round 0.2mm when your base number is 0.8...see what I mean? So you have a few options. First, you can adjust the wrap. For really small diameter blanks...say less than 1 centimeter in circumference...I will just use drywall tape instead of laying out a thread base. It does not look as good as thread but thread is hard to layout accurately (as you are finding) in small increments. If you are careful, you can get a really good dragon scale with drywall tape. The other think you can do is decrease your number of axes - instead of an 8- axis wrap do a 4- or 6- axis wrap. This requires different math but can open things up a bit. It's really a matter of personal preference whether you like the way it looks or not. And finally - if you really want a thread layout with increments that tiny you can find a way to mark smaller increments more accurately. If it were me and I had to lay it out on a 6.4mm circumference blank, I'd find the places where my 0.8mm measurements were square: 4.0mm, 8.0mm, 12.0mm, 16.0mm etc. and mark those. Then I would take a precision spring divider caliper, set it to 0.8mm, and use it to make all the marks between my major square marks. You need to be very careful and very precise but it should work. It will be TEDIOUS. Here is the kind of caliper I am talking about: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143A00WA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 One other thing - when you go this tiny, do NOT use size E or size D layout thread. I would back it all the way down to size A for my underwrap/layout threads and use the smallest metallic thread possible for the overwrap. I'd recommend Hitena Noble or Aurora Metallic in size AA or Robison Anton J Metallic. You have to scale everything down in these tiny sizes or you don't get the effect you are looking for. Hope this helps...let me know if you have questions.

[@YL-mc9oz]

@@masteringrodbuilding Every time I get an answer from a question you answer in such a professional and detailed way that it just warms my heart, I have never seen a person like you who invests so much in answers and explanations, it is just amazing and leaves me speechless and on the other hand very appreciative. You helped me a lot again, I will try all the tips you detailed in the answer, I meant cm in circumference, you answered me in an amazing way and beyond expectation - thanks again !!!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@YL-mc9oz So glad it helps. Try measuring in millimeters instead of centimeters...the smaller units make you more precise. Good luck!

[@YL-mc9oz]

@@masteringrodbuilding Hi, I made it again according to your instructions and it turned out really nice !!! Precise squares. I wanted to please ask about 4 and 6 axis, you wrote that it requires a different calculation, could you please explain how it works ? Lots of thanks in advance ( "The other think you can do is decrease your number of axes - instead of an 8- axis wrap do a 4- or 6- axis wrap. This requires different math but can open things up a bit. It's really a matter of personal preference whether you like the way it looks or not.")

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@YL-mc9oz glad it turned out better for you. The fix is usually pretty simple and in the details. So, if you measure your blank circumference at the middle of the wrap area - like we do in this video - instead of dividing by 8 like shown, you can divide by four to get 4 axis spacing. Divide by 6 to get 6 axis spacing. The wrap will remain square but the squares will be bigger and less dense. So if our circumference was 36mm let's say...our spacing would be 6mm between centers for a 6 axis wrap (36/6) and 9mm between centers for a 4 (36/4)axis wrap. Hopefully that makes sense...just try it on a piece of scrap blank and you'll get it.

[@How2tieafly]

Where can I get that blue ruler?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTZ77S4/ref=sw_img_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

[@harrydixon6770]

I used synthetic sheet Rock tape

[@FishNinjaY]

Nice explanation. Thanks

[@bradmerritt1383]

One of the best explanations I have seen. Thanks.

[@บุญเลิศฟิสชิ่ง]

มาชมครับผม+1ครับ

[@hawaiiaction.1976]

I do it diff.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Lots of ways to do it...if what you are doing works well for you keep it up!

[@minh8080]

Haha I see the cheat way under the rod.