How to Prep Your Car For Perfect Paint. STEP BY STEP GUIDE

[@judih.8754]

I love these nice short concise videos! Great stuff.

[@GarageNoise]

Awesome, thank you!

[@jimfeaster4837]

Great detail! I really enjoy lessons

[@GarageNoise]

Awesome! Appreciate the support!

[@John_Sabatini_Custom_Paints]

Great video Chris!! Thanks

[@GarageNoise]

You bet! Appreciate the support!

[@JohnWD40TC02]

Hi Chris, very enjoyable video with some good info on prepping the primer for paint by taking us through the blocking and sanding process, thanks for doing this brother as I'm finding this series of videos very helpful👏🙏👍John UK

[@GarageNoise]

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it

[@johnknorr1140]

Always helpful

[@HotRodModz]

Thanks! Great info excellent explanations

[@GarageNoise]

Wow brother! thank you!

[@Ray-n5z7q]

Those body lines r tough. I sanded thru about 1/2 long, while coarse buffing my car for heavy scratches, touched it up and sanded thru the same spot again by hand. Now going for a 3rd time and going to use your tape technique. Thanks for all the time u devote to helping all of us out.

[@Man-EatingMushroom]

Just scuff up the spot you keep sanding through and leave it alone. What stage are you on, primer or base coat? If it’s a tiny little burn through, just use a rattle can of filler primer to seal it and scuff it up like Chris says to remove texture and move on with your life 👍 best of luck bud!

[@Snip59]

Without the right Prep before doing anything the finish job would be crap not only that all the Hours that went into it then see the finish as a disgrace.Great content indeed cheers from Phil in Sydney love the work you do.

[@GarageNoise]

Thank you! Appreciate the comment and support!

[@johnday8452]

Great!! What is the difference between sealer and primer?

[@jimjohnson9813]

Sealer is just a thinned out primer. The primer he uses can be used as a sealer after adding reducer to the products specifications.

[@johnday8452]

@jimjohnson9813 thanks!

[@timhudson8958]

Have you ever heard of isopropyl alcohol causing a reaction with clear coat I’m having issues and the paint tech says it’s the isopropyl alcohol?

[@GarageNoise]

I've never heard of or experienced it but might try changing to prep solvent and see if it helps.

[@brendat5144]

I can understand using alcohol for cleaning. But why use isopropyl over denatured?

[@GarageNoise]

Denatured is more toxic when inhaled and can leave residue after it dries. Isopropyl does not.

[@Ray-n5z7q]

Thanks, I was wondering the same thing

[@fulviosanna]

Hi, can we use a normal primer over those small burn throughs or epoxy primer has to be used on the bare metal in order to ensure protection from corrosion?Thank you

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Chris, dry guide coat is not charcoal it's actually a polymer. First I'll tell you what it is and then I'll tell you how a 3M engineer discovered it. It’s copier/laser printer toner. Twenty years ago copiers used a separate toner bottle containing toner which had to be replaced when it was used up. Changing this bottle out was a true PIA as the toner tended to go everywhere. Modern copiers and laser printers use cartridges that contain the toner within them along with the photosensitive drum but back then they were separate. An unlucky engineer wanted to make some copies and found that the copying machine needed toner so he went to get a bottle of it and installed it into the copying machine. He spilled some, which was very easy to do, and noticed how hard it was to clean it up as it wanted to spread everywhere. That’s when the light bulb in his head went off and he discovered/invented dry guide coat. This is a very similar story as to how the Post-It note was developed. Happy accidents do happen from time to time.

[@GarageNoise]

I guess it's not really charcoal based, more fine carbon powder.

[@class5bodyworks]

I thought it is graphite powder. I found an equivalent at the hardware store. It's over five times the amount for a fraction of the price of 3M. I scrub it in with a scuff pad. Works great.