pcb level electronic repair on a 2002 ford f150 EEC-V ECU with a stuck open fuel injector

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[@windward2818]

The failed component is a Ceramic SMT Capacitor (X7R, 50WVDC, 10nF?) of the old "Hard" end cap termination type. Which mean it cannot withstand a lot of mechanical stress, like severe heat cycling (expansion and contraction relative to the PCB expansion rate) or flexing mechanical stress. Today, for new automotive module designs, the SMT ceramic capacitors are much more specialized with one feature being "Soft" Termination, to allow flexing without cracking. The failure mode of this capacitor was not electrical overstress, it was cracking due to mechanical stress. PCBs tend to flex more in areas of layer discontinuity, like the mounting hole opening next to the cracked capacitor. So, you should really change out the cap next to it which is also by the mounting hole. So, robbing caps from another module is not the best repair, the capacitors most likely have the same easy cracking design flaw. You should have a small stock of the newer AEC-Q200 automotive qualified caps with soft termination from TDK or KEMET to repair boards. Capacitor design has come a very long way since this module was assembled and soldered in Seguin, Texas. Also, for the injector driver IC, you will see Thermal vias (small plated through holes) to convey heat from the device heat tab to the heatsink on the other side of the board. The footprint approach to this package on the PCB is also outdated. For a new module design you will see, Thermal via with solder mask, and bare tinned pad alternating stripes. This prevents the solder from wicking down the plated through via holes (they are masked off) and robbing solder from tab solder joint, usually in very unpredictable ways. Perhaps you could tell us what flux and solder you use for the repairs. If you had access to a full SMT rework / manufacturing bench, the repair would be done differently, with one of the main objectives to remove the bad capacitor for further testing with no further damage to the device, this is usually only an engineering team requirement. If cracking is suspected, which it is in this case, the best de-soldering method is not tweezers, it is the obscure technique of two handed soldering. You want to minimize heat stress on the part, so you use two soldering irons one in each hand with a high heat pad (small cut mat) next to the part. You have to remove the part and isolate it from heat as quickly as possible. So, you apply heat to the two part joints and when the solder goes liquid, move the part off the board, it will stick to one of the iron tips, which ever tip has the part slightly tap on the thermal mat pad and the part will come off. The process is very fast (under a second) and takes some practice to get right. You could solder the complete part with hot air and solder paste, just remember to add a little more paste then what would be provided by the stencil because of the outdated footprint design. For this type of repair you can actually have a mini paste stencil which is just slightly larger than the foot print, some have a raised holding / pivot tab which is very handy. Then to solder the part with hot air, you should first clean and preheat the board, and using a heat shield (a small aluminum 1/8 inch plate with a cutout that you place over the part to prevent heating up adjacent parts) solder the part. You ideally would like to see the part power tab slightly float on the solder. Preheating the board helps to reduce hot spots when using hot air, but also it minimizes mechanical stress on the solder joint. If you wanted to use the method of paste soldering the power tab (which is an option given the footprint design) and then hand soldering the device leads, a faster method would be to drag solder the leads. To drag solder I like to use PACE concave mini-wave tips. The thermal / glue approach used on this module is also outdate, new designs will use thermal tape for PCB to aluminum heatsinking, with silicon sealant only used for enclosure edge sealing, if needed. To make a better thermal connection to the heat sink, you first have to clean both the heatsink and PCB of the old thermal compound, then you can use a two sided PCB to heatsink thermal adhesive tape (see 3M) which is a very good conductor of heat, but also an very good electrical insulator. The tape also accounts for the PCB and the aluminum heatsink casting having different rates of thermal expansion. The tape is much better at a consistent thermal joint and has proven itself over the years as a very reliable and effective approach.

[@ecurepair]

Flux I like is amtech rma 223 and I also like kester's liquid fluxes 951/959 and 186. For solder right now I'm finishing off a lb of REL22 from AIM, lb of loctite 97SC 3c & for leaded solder I have a lb of Kester 63/37. The rel22 is probably what I use the most currently.

[@windward2818]

@@ecurepair Thank you for the information. My production / rework bench is very well supplied, I have access to a whole range of solders (lead, leadfree, silver) and fluxes (everything from organic to the latest no-clean) only because I work as an Technician/Engineer. The old technician trick for using wire solder is to use a 0.062" diameter spool for tinning soldering iron tips, and 0.010" (usually special order) up to 0.031" diameter for small part soldering, it is faster and cheaper to use the big stuff for tinning. For production work, the solder wire flux and paste have to be the same type, so for a subassembly, lets say eutectic tin-lead, you could have paste, wire and liquid flux (sometimes tacky) all the same type or compatible. I would say Kester makes about 90% of what I use.

[@Jengoboys603]

very nice

[@akaitv6606]

Top job mate

[@ecurepair]

thanks!

[@akaitv6606]

I've got a mis in mine I'll be working on tommorow hopefully it the 6 cylinder coil pack , its dropping a cylinder under load low speed , it's an erratic misfire . I'll be doing the coil pack first, as it looks original 20 years old , the leads and if still there pulling the ecu out and having a closer look

[@mr.torrestv]

Wao! Good work, I'm a subscriber now.

[@ecurepair]

Thanks for subbing

[@High_Tech_Mountain]

Top notch work brother!

[@ecurepair]

Much appreciated!

[@akaitv6606]

In Australia we have the eec v for 1994-2002 Alot of the time its coil drivers , have you got any video of repairs it uses a coil block that has 2 3 pair stri g's, has waist fire ignition Like 2, 5 fire together 1,6 fire together 3,4 fire together Injectors are not sequential Batch fire 123 456

[@ecurepair]

I dont think I have any coil driver repair videos for eec-v's honestly. I mostly work on diesel ones and they are a little different. Pretty sure, in this video tho I see 4 on each side in to263 packages. They will be easy enough to replace, just remove board from aluminum case first.

[@nikoladjordjevic444]

Good work! Excellent knowledge. Possible to establish contact with you regarding ecu repair advice?

[@mooresautorepair8370]

How did you get started in board repair. I’d like to start doing this in my auto repair shop. Did you take any training for it. Any suggestions for some one starting on board repair

[@ecurepair]

I started in it after being pretty heavy into advanced automotive locksmithing (a lot of eeprom work) and dealer level flashing. This gave me a good security net by knowing if I messed it up I could always just replace it so I started poking around in the bad modules. I didn't take any courses or anything but I trained everyday on bad modules I was given after replacements. I would buy good ones to compare with and kind of went from there. I did A LOT of reading and research on electrical engineering and also I studied (still do) pretty much every component I ran across to understand how it works.

[@86VickyLX]

Would you be able to add the missing hardware on one of these to make the tachometer output work? Some of the late 90s early 2000s ecus such as the Mustangs and crown vics didn't use a conventional tach output. While other ecus did. Is this just a matter of missing hardware on the board?

[@ecurepair]

If its same hardware version, technically its possible. You'd have to do a lot of work tho and you would also have to reprogram.

[@autoelectricconnection7021]

Another fine job. Looks like you are expanding your promotional talents. What was the ECM part number on that one, I didn't catch it. Not much of the older EEC-IV stuff around these parts. Some days I would welcome them.

[@ecurepair]

Dont remember part # but It was from a 02 F-series 5.4L. I usually only run into the ones for 7.3's but they are all pretty much the same it seems.

[@rodney489]

@@ecurepair EEC-V ECU

[@windward2818]

Have you re-flashed a Ford EEC-V PCM on the bench, if so what tools did you use? I am setting up a new bench dedicated to EEC-V 104 pin PCM programming and testing. My direction at the moment is to use first try a Bosch Mastertech-II J2534 VCI with Ford IDS. If the Mastertech-II does not work I will move on to a Ford Rotunda VCM-2.

[@ecurepair]

Sure, all the time. I have a few tools that work but I usually use the original rotunda VCM1 with IDS when working on the bench. The VCM2 works good as well. Never tried the bosch so cant comment on that one. Ford also has out VCM3 if you want the greatest and latest, bit overkill for the eec-v's tho.

[@windward2818]

@@ecurepair Thank you for the information.

[@SirSmokesAlott]

I know this video is old, but I had a question that maybe you could answer. I had to swap an intake on my 03 5.4 expedition and during the process of putting the coils back in, or when I was torqui4ghe intake bolts back on. I swear I seen a quick zap and a tiny puff of smoke near one of the coils or injectors. I didn't think much of it because the key was out and I assumed nothing would be powered at that moment. Well I read into a bit and apparently the injector connectors are hot with 12 volts all the time, and the switching is done with the ground pin, (seems ass backwards to me, but whatever). I didn't think anything of it, and assumed it was dust or something from the bolt being torqued even though I thought otherwise originally. And went about finishing the install of the intake. After putting all the coils back in, and plugging everything back together I could not get rid of a cylinder 2 misfire, I pulled the coil, plug and did everything I've ever done to solve a misfire before and nothing helped. I pulled codes again and it said there was an open circuit for the cylinder 2 injector.. Inspected and cleaned the connector to no avail. So the question is, is the pin on the injectors always hot even with the key out and engine off? And if so, could me accident grounding that 12 volt pin cause an issue within the emc/ecu? I would have assumed it would be fuses if it was always hot... But I guess it's not. Yes I still had my rear battery connected, I honestly didn't think it would be an issue.

[@ecurepair]

The injectors/coils should only be powered during key ON on or START. The power comes from the pcm power relay that gets fused inside the battery junction box. They only receive a ground signal when the pcm is telling them to fire so they shouldnt have that either. The Open circuit codes are usually wiring. You may need to remove the terminals from the harness and inspect them for cracked joints.

[@SirSmokesAlott]

@@ecurepair thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

[@SirSmokesAlott]

@@ecurepair turned out a little coolant got into the spark plug hole and somehow caused it to not get a connection with the coil. but while messing with it, i tested the plug with the meter and all the injectors totally have live 12volts while the key is out. not sure if there's something up with mine or if that's normal idk. i have no other electrical issues otherwise.

[@ecurepair]

@@SirSmokesAlott Thanks for the update. If it stays powered you should check your pcm power relay to make sure its cutting off.

[@SirSmokesAlott]

@@ecurepair I'll definitely look into it soon, was just glad to have it running normal again. If I remember I'll let you know what I find.

[@windward2818]

With your bench testing of EEC-V modules do you ever connect a scan tool or NGS tester to the DLC (Ford SCP)? Can SCP work with only the PCM on the bus?

[@ecurepair]

Yes I always connect to them while testing. Either with rotunda vcm & ids or autel scanner. Just pcm is fine.

[@windward2818]

@@ecurepair Thank you for the information. SCP as compared to HSCAN on the bench, using just the EEC-V PCM can cause problems with SCP communication. For example the Rotunda NGS will not communicate with just the EEC-V PCM on the bus with a bench test. This is because neither the EEC-V PCM or the NGS have a bus unit load, or in other words, bus termination, and SCP will not work without bus termination. An SCP unit load, as opposed to HSCAN where we have just two terminating resistors, is the concept of each module on SCP contains a "unit load" circuit for SCP Data Bus + Pin 2 on the DLC and SCP Data Bus - Pin 10 on the DLC, both having on-board module termination (or loading) circuits. However, with the Ford EEC-V PCM alone on the bench no unit load is present, the same is true for the NGS. To accommodate up to 16 Modules on the SCP bus each module, if we follow the unit load termination approach, has the following, or something very similar: 1) SCP Data Bus + Pin 2 on the DLC = a 2.7kOhm pull down resistor to DLC Pin 5 Signal Ground. This signal is pulled to +5V when active. 2) SCP Data Bus - Pin 10 on the DLC = a 2.7kOhm pull up resistor through a switching diode (1N4148) to +5V VREF referenced to DLC Pin 5 Signal Ground. This signal is pull to Signal Ground when active. The theoretical maximum loading is for a total resistance = 180 Ohms. Expected loading for J1850 Ford SCP interface ICs (Renesas M59330P) is nominal at 378 Ohms total with about 8 modules on the bus. Okay, so why does this matter to Keyworks ECU Repair. Well so far you have been fortunate that the SCP tools used to talk to the EEC-V on the bench have a unit load on board the tool (my guess is probably a little stronger unit load like a 2.2kOhm resistors, maybe you could find out the unit load on-board your SCP tools). I have found if you use at least 4 unit loads (4 x 2.7k Ohm in parallel) the communication bus looks much cleaner due to the drive available for the line capacitance present. Also, what this means is that for the EEC-Vs I have, the unit load is not on-board the PCM. So, where are they in the vehicle and why did Ford move away from the Unit Load for each module concept especially with the PCM, which I find very strange? I plan on doing further testing with the maximum load on the bench of 180 Ohms. This should push the SCP interface IC (or discrete transistor circuit) to its rated limit which is a way to test its drive current capability worse case. Do you know how Ford SCP J1850 should be terminated?

[@ecurepair]

Ive no experience with the NGS but I would think it should work on the bench. Are you working with a known good NGS unit and eec-v? I dont have any in front of me at the moment but I will investigate it when I do. I have a few coming in soon.

[@windward2818]

@@ecurepair I have several working EEC-Vs awaiting reprogramming using DrewTech and IDS, I was waiting to see how fast the download performance was with my new mobile HotSpot which has 1000BaseT connection to the PC. I have a very nice EEC-V bench wiring harness that includes the DLC and EEC-V 104 pin module connectors with reverse polarity protection relay (Like the EEC Power relays in the car using a diode, in case somebody connects up the test harness reverse polarity) and the harness includes two switches one for Battery Power and one for Ignition Power (Key On VPWR). Connected to the harness is a GoDiag OBDF-II DLC breakout box which has bus LEDs (I really like this breakout box). I also have a EEC-V 104 Pin Breakout Box that I just repaired and tested and works great, but not really needed on the bench at this time. The NGS that I have refurbished works in EEC-V vehicles with no problem and I put together the base kit, from several donor junked units. So like you would get if you purchased the NGS from Rotunda or Hickok which includes the plastic case. When I first set up the EEC-V bench test / programming harness I tried the most handy tool at the time, which was the Innova 5610, and it talked with really no problems for generic OBD-II. Then I tried my NGS and zip, dead, no talkie. Then I tried my Autel Scan Tool which worked most of the time. So, I monitored the bus signals with my PicoScope and the capacitive effects where very pronounced. Like the bus signal where not terminated properly. So, then I did a little research on the Ford SCP J1850 interface to understood the signaling voltage levels relative to Signal Ground. Everything made sense with the basic SCP approach being each module was to have a "unit load" on-board, which is similar to bus termination with HSCAN. Well okay so why do the bus signals look like crap. Surely there must be unit load termination in the PCM, after all it is a very important and sophisticated module on the bus. No, the PCM does not have this unit load termination on-board. Okay, so NGS should have it right, well no, here again no unit load termination. I was shocked, so I asked my self, what modules on the SCP bus have the unit load termination so the bus can work? My guess at this point is the Instrument Panel Cluster and the Body Module or equivalent. So, this is when I loaded the SCP but with 4 equivalent loads, and everything starting talking. So I think from what I have found is that some testers or J2534 In-Vehicle programmers have termination and some do not.

[@ecurepair]

I'm not a fan of the godiag box. Its ok for basic stuff I guess. I do not think they isolate the LED's from the data signals at all. It will cause no connection on dodge sci stuff. Also Dont like how it handles voltage either. Is not adjustable right? The 12.5V is too low for testing ecu.s You need to be able to range from 12-15V at the least. I had a eecv on the bench earlier. Didn't have time for opening since it was just for flashing but before I connected the scanner I scoped the SCP+ and SCP- lines. They both worked properly on their own and with the VCM connected had the same signal. I dont know much about networks so dont take my word for it but I do not think J1850 uses terminating resistors like what you'd use on CAN. Instead its probably just using a pull up resistor on scp+ and a pull down on scp-

[@vasapetrov8760]

Здравствуйте, можно ли отключить иммобилайзер у вас?

[@ecurepair]

I dont think so for eec-v