Q&A | HOW WIDE Should Pants Openings Be & More

#NewYork
One of my favorite types of videos are when I answer your questions posed in the comment section. This is the March 2021 edition.
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Table of Content:
00:00 - Intro
00:59 - Question #1
02:00 - Question #2
03:35 - Question #3
04:45 - Question #4
06:42 - Question #5
07:20 - Question #6
09:20 - Question #7
09:37 - Question #8
11:05 - Question #9
12:40 - Question #10
13:05 - Outro
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My Spier & Mackay Black & Red Houndstooth Sport Coat - bit.ly/3ni2Tfe
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[@katerynefier]

When you open KZbin and there are five videos you want to watch but there’s no doubt that Vladimir’s gets watched first. You are doing something right!

[@v_r_]

What’s up, Rey? I truly appreciate the love, bro. I must really be doing something right.

[@jake2011rt]

The desire to be more casual over the last year has actually driven me to be more formal than before. I wear a coat and tie four days a week now by choice, whereas I used to only dress like that for one.

[@v_r_]

How so? Can you explain what prompted the change to dress more formally?

[@jake2011rt]

@@v_r_ I meant the desire I saw in others. I am a grad student at a seminary, so it is fairly normal for people to be in coats and ties. I just decided I wanted to look that way because so many of my peers were slipping into even more casual dress.

[@phillipj.moodie3077]

@ Jacob Smith. Well that additional comment explains why you previously only dressed formally on one day a week. A century ago that suit would have been generally known as your "Sunday Best". Having several members of my family enter various religious orders during the last hundred years I think that people are pleased when the person they are seeking any form of religious advice from dresses in a manner that reflects on the high regard that the general public has for members of any religious order, no matter what it is, who dedicate their career to the welfare of others. So remember to keep a sharp crease in your trousers and to polish your shoes ( Just joking, but people seeking help from Doctors and Lawyers are comforted by their dress code. ) Phil.

[@nick177th]

I'm feelin' the Question & Answer format. Excellent video as usual brother.

[@MauricXe]

This is a great series. I appreciate the interaction with the audience and the info.

[@eyeheartsushi2212]

I’m liking the Q & A videos, man. Keep them coming.

[@ronnieglov]

I appreciate the level of engagement you give back

[@v_r_]

What’s up, Ronnie? I love what I do and wouldn’t be doing it still if the engagement wasn’t there. So I’m very thankful that a lot of you mess with me. I get more comments than channels 10 times my size.

[@RajGheevarghese]

This should be a series. Keep it up! Really enjoyed this. Greetings from New Zealand.

[@iechega]

Loved your answer to the lapel question! Keep it up man! Great video!

[@jeans6780]

The leg opening thing is very interesting : I used to think that since I had small feet (UK7) I needed slim leg opening (17cm) until I realized that was way too slim. The feet size matters, but what matters the most is the size of your calf, especially if you wear OTC socks! For me 19cm LO is perfect : makes a tapered leg, not too wide compared to my feet, and the trousers fall nicely when I get up instead of being stuck on the socks 👌

[@v_r_]

We wear the same size shoes, nice. And you’re right about the calves too. I only wear OTC but never really have any issue with my 8” hem. Although some Viccel socks do get stuck on my flannel pants.

[@jeans6780]

@@v_r_ ah man... I love flannel but that sock stuck thing is a pain... BUT : I have the solution ! 😊 try linen OTC socks! You’ll see, it’s magic. You can get some from Bresciani at mes chaussettes rouges, or at Shibumi 👌

[@phillipj.moodie3077]

Vlad, last century in Australia, when Melbourne became the second largest Greek city in the World and we had at least as many Italian migrants, they made custom tailored suits affordable. Whenever I used them to adjust an off the rack suit,with cuffed trousers, they would cut the bottom of the trouser leg so that it had a taper, with the front of the plead just breaking on the laces and the rear touching down to the heel block on the shoe. It looked very smart because it improved the drape. Phil.

[@eyeheartsushi2212]

I need to step up my wardrobe when it comes to dress pants, however, that pant leg break you described is my favorite. Too bad not many people do that these days.

[@jonathanrobinson9208]

What's up Vlad ? Loved the Q&A ❤✌

[@Michaeladechatillon]

Thank you for your entertaining and knowledgeable content!

[@v_r_]

You’re very welcome! Thanks for watching.

[@ivorybailey5289]

Thanks for responding to my question, keep up with the great content.

[@v_r_]

No doubt, bro!

[@teenoso4069]

A reliable insider told me Yeossal and Oct Tenth are effectively the same. AM is a level above in my opinion.

[@horacecoleman7676]

Very good keep it up,great information so many young men need this👍

[@v_r_]

Thanks, Horace! You know I’m for the people

[@paulterry8373]

The Score - classic one of the best ever... love it man

[@DjFurrySTL]

Antonio makes some of the most beautiful shoes I’ve ever seen

[@v_r_]

Gorgeous plus he knows how to take really nice pictures to showcase his work.

[@fokkelman64231]

Really enjoying this. Greetings from the Netherlands.

[@v_r_]

Thanks, Fred! Big shoutout to the Netherlands 🇳🇱

[@ffa5153]

Thx Vladimir, I like your comment about watches _ they are indeed part of a wardrobe. I will be looking forward to hearing about your journey into the world of horology from a sartorial point of view.

[@brianminor6069]

Looking forward to the video on trousers. I appreciate your thoughts on the width of your leg opening.

[@toddnyc1642]

Vlad looking good with the button down and tweed, stay safe.

[@biscuitnoir1]

You're right my friend. The more people wear casual clothing the more style enthousiasts will stand out. Love the Q&A format. I'll throw in a question myself. I remember that a little over a year ago you had mentioned that you could wear only Enzo Bonafè and be a happy man. Now what you have tried on other brands, if you had to choose only one, which one would it be and why? Keep the content coming 😁

[@v_r_]

Mehdi, what’s good? That is such a great question. Can’t wait to talk about this one

[@ronhallas7272]

Great review on pant openings! Had a quick question for your sort of off the topic you were talking about. Have you ever heard of a brand of shoes called tucci polo? Dont know or hear much about them, are they good quality for the price, really value your opinion! Thanks ron

[@MikeHaggarKJ]

A thing about leg openings is that I really think that the the bigger leg opening is the longer the pants should be. Imo off course. Big leg opening with no break or slight break looks awkward with that big piece off fabric hanging above your shoe. A good break with the fabric resting on the shoe creates a much cleaner silhouette.

[@v_r_]

That makes sense!

[@anthonydaniels5910]

People still throwing shots at Magnannis, thanks a lot fam 😂😂😂😂😂

[@v_r_]

My brother AD 🙌🏾🙌🏾

[@claudioklr]

Thanks for answering my question!! :-) Nice discussion emerged from it. I agree with you about that topic. Regarding jackets' shoulder, I prefer the soft shoulders in my jackets/blazers, I see all of your jackets have that kind of shoulder. Here I started using, as you said in the video, t-shirts with cotton unstructured jackets, maybe with jeans, maybe with chinos, and sometimes with white leather sneakers. But I prefer to wear a nice wool suit with black or brown/burgundy dress shoes. Have you made some wholecut shoes review?

[@rcorser1]

Awesome videos and channel. Great advice and reviews. 😃. Please let me know your thoughts on exciting shoes….alligator, lizard, etc. Appreciate your hell!!

[@alexxfreedom]

Good to see you back in the swing of things. Have you ordered trousers from yossal? I just wonder about the fit. As I'm a slightly bigger man than the models they show I was wondering what the fit was like?

[@brunogiambroni1422]

Thats a really dope jacket Vladimir!

[@v_r_]

Appreciate it, Bruno! I unboxed it in this video 👉🏾 kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4GnnZ6Zh9F8qdk

[@danielfrancis3660]

I think your trouser opening is also related ro your height or trouser length as well as your foot size

[@v_r_]

Interesting. I didn’t think of that

[@drzaius844]

The bunched shoulders reminds me of a scene in the movie Broadcast News, where the anchorman tells the nerdy weekend guys to pull down and sit on his jacket, like you said. I do it when I'm seated with other people because I am vain AF

[@betaoopice]

Great video as always. Will you list the three pairs of shoes that you were asked to compare? Thanks. ✌️

[@v_r_]

Printes, my man! The three shoe brands were Oct. Tenth , Yeossal and Antonio Meccariello.

[@colleycol]

Hey Vlad, Great channel!! Trying to step up my clothing game. Where do you recommend for big and tall men to shop and also what styles? Any MTMs come to mind? Thanks for any help. Cory

[@nick177th]

The Score is (along with Miles Davis' Kind of Blue, and Ms.Hill's The Miseducation of Lauren Hill) a perfect album.

[@cliftonsledge962]

Bro you’re so right about Lauren Hill, it’s a all time classic 👍🏾

[@MirkotheGreat]

Can you talk about double vented vs single vented suit jackets. The pro's and con's and in what scenarios are one better than the other?

[@MrRasRooster]

Thank you for answering my question. I have a few lifetime watches so this helps. Now I have to invest in ties and pocket squares. One more question. Will you do a video about upkeep prices. I mean like for what is a good price for tailoring shirts, dry cleaning, shoe repairs, etc. I feel like when you are green these shops may take advantage. Thanks.

[@DanMaker]

For wide trouser cuffs, you can't beat Oxford Bags (do a google image search if you aren't familiar with the style) Simon is awesome.

[@v_r_]

What’s up, Dan? I just did a Google search and almost fell off my chair 😂😂. And yes, Simon is the man.

[@jandevery]

Really liking this format bro! Keep it coming, realizing we need to get you some good questions. By the way, those Antonio Meccariello shoes are 🔥🔥🔥. Any idea the name of that shoe?

[@v_r_]

I’m glad to hear it. Which pair? I think I posted 3 of them.

[@jandevery]

@@v_r_ Sorry, the shoes highlighted around the 12:26 mark...

[@Mister_Phafanapolis]

Because of Covid, lockdowns and quarantines, I think there is more reason than before to “dress up.” You’re seeing less people than normal therefore each interaction is more important so you might as well wear something “nicer” than your normally would to make a positive impression. Also, don’t go outside socially wearing sweat pants and running sneakers. No. Just no. “Athleisure” is just a fancy name for wearing something ratty like basketball shorts and a free t shirt you got to donating blood.

[@v_r_]

Interesting thought and I like it. Unfortunately, my hopes aren’t high as I think most will use these times as a reason to dress like a kid even more but only time will tell.

[@Mister_Phafanapolis]

I feel you @@v_r_ but all we can do is be the change we want to see in the world

[@PORTMIAMIMIKE]

(1)Are shoe tress necessary for full grain leather sneakers? Just got a pair of crown Northampton (2) Wearing a lapel pendant and a pocket square together, is that to much?

[@ruliadultra]

I enjoyed the video sir. I too had noticed the shoulder pooling, but I understand it result from the particular sitting position. Perhaps as the channel grows, you will try out full bespoke and we can see if there will be a difference.

[@sorindragoiu9318]

Hey Vlad, love the channel and the Q&A's - what do you think about dress sneakers? First time I saw them I think I threw up a little...now I'm softening and they're growing on me. Thoughts? Outfits?

[@robertarevalo5306]

Hey Vladimir hope you’re doing well. Fun video. Definitely gotta have watches. Look into vintage watches like Hamilton, Omegas, Longines etc. I like the tapper look on my pants. Love the jacket your wearing, looks great. Could you do a how to wear jeans with dress shoes and sport coats video. Keep up the good work, looking forward your next video. Thank you.

[@v_r_]

What’s up, Robert? I’ve gotten a ton of requests for jeans content. I’ll work on something, stay tuned.

[@martinc2944]

@@v_r_ I'm looking forward to it! It seems that denim trousers are quite in the vogue these days (especially in a Gurkha style). I'd love to hear your take on it, and whether or not you prefer the classic flat-front 5-pocket style. Yeossal and other companies do offer high-rise versions of the 5-pocket jean that seems to be a good compromise between elegance and the iconic design.

[@kilduce4423]

Intro!

[@v_r_]

You already know!!

[@herealittleandtherealittle3626]

Miles may have meant the pleating on your shirt sleeves on the shoulder of some of your suits.

[@v_r_]

Hmmmm...now that you’ve mentioned it, you might be right. I’ll touch on that on my next Q&A. Thanks for pointing that out.

[@herealittleandtherealittle3626]

@@v_r_ you got it my brother!

[@SimonOShahan]

Mr Riché where are you? I miss your wit and advice!

[@nikolafusk]

Regarding your answer to question 8, Sonya at sartorial talks has a great video about it called "The secret of the armscye"

[@majadi8855]

How are SPIER & MACKAY chinos ? What’s a good chino brand ?

[@ebutuoy1406]

Qn for the next video: how high/small should your jacket’s armholes be? A tough one considering not many brands do small armholes / allow you to customize armhole size (including Spier & Mackay).

[@thatxonexguy5438]

As high as youre comfortable with. Higher armholes allow for greater movement without pulling your whole jacket (e.i. reaching for a top shelf). Same thing goes for dress shirts. The only reason why low armholes are so common are so they can fit a wide variety of people since yunno, its RTW and not made specifically for you.

[@herealittleandtherealittle3626]

Lauryn Hill is my favorite female rapper of all time. And she can sing.

[@v_r_]

You and I both, Kevin! I used to be signed to Jerry Wonda and opened up for Wyclef a bunch of times. My biggest regret is when I met those guys, Lauryn was already gone. So I never got to meet her. This was around 98.

[@herealittleandtherealittle3626]

@@v_r_ wow! Sorry to hear that. I heard now... she is not too good at showing up to shows in a timely way. And Wyclef is solid. Im sure you enjoyed that experience.

[@markm.9731]

Recently I have received email from one retailer about sales on Magnanni shoes, but I had watched your previous videos, so no Magnanni for me :)

[@jn9065]

The bunched shoulders are from your jacket having lower armholes. S&M jackets are notorious for lower armholes. You can see it even in their own ads. They are not the lowest on the market, but for an Italian look, they are very low and obviously so. Overall, they are not bad at all - in fact,. they are nice-looking jackets by all means, but typical for clothing made in a Chinese factory, to keep the price very low. For example, Ring Jacket, Orazio, Attolini - all RTW - will all have much higher armholes and you will not see that bunching when sitting. You'll have to pay min $1,000 retail for a suit with Neapolitan-type higher armholes. You can get a little better with armholes for a slightly higher price with Cavour or Natalino if you want to stay under $1,000. Of course, Attolini retail will run you about to $6,000 for a RTW jacket. You can get a discount one for $2,000 if you hunt hard. But you'll never go back to S&M if you do. The difference is measured by orders of magnitude. Also, AM shoes are miles better than Yeossal, I don't know about the other Chinese made shoes; Oct 10th (likely the same), but the leather on Yeossal isn't very good at all. In my opinion, you're much better off with Carmina or TLB Arista or Meermin or even Vass, each using better grades of leather than Yeossal. Unfortunately, many people are only chasing hand welting and slim waists (frankly things that no one but the owners will ever notice or know about).To get a good pair of hand-welted shoes with high quality leather will be very expensive. There's no way around it. There are no free rides. The price of leather is the biggest contributing factor to the cost of making a shoe. Because even houses like Stefano Bemer uses student labor for manufacturing, the cost of labor isn't a significant factor of shoe-making. But maybe you could show what your Yeossal shoes look like now and let us know how often they have been worn. I've seen a few online and they don't appear to be aging well at all. If you must get Yeosaal try suede or hatch grain leathers; both of which hide the low quality of the gain.

[@bobhaverbeck7585]

Great jacket, great video. Album not so much lol.

[@v_r_]

WAIT...WHAT? May I ask how old you are? Just curious as it’s the first time I’ve heard someone say that.

[@toobalkain]

I used to be a fan of pleats and wore them a lot but recently I'm leaning more towards flat front high rise pants, it's just a more elegant silhouette for me and I think for most people, to pull of pleats requires a specific build, a taller, slimmer, more athletic physique than most gentlemen have.

[@S_Kane]

7:10 how soon should you put shoe trees in after wearing? Particularly shoes with rubber soles.

[@v_r_]

Immediately as you want the shoe trees to absorb the sweat.

[@S_Kane]

@@v_r_ I’ve heard agreements about letting the shoe drop out a bit as the tree may not do that completely

[@rey_s90]

@@S_Kane so have I, some people swear by using them immediately and some people say you should let the shoe air out for a bit before putting them in, 🤷🏽‍♂️

[@JasonCheeeseball]

I usually dress pretty casually such as chinos, tees, sweatshirts and various casual jackets e.g. denim, suede, mountain parkas but because of covid and all the sales, I've gotten more into menswear. I had already watched your channel and as well as hugo jacomet, permanent style and hespoke but didn't put it into practice until last year. although i do feel like menswear is being affected by certain trends such as I don't think rugby shirts and corduroy were that cool until brands started doing them recently such as Drakes. I think permanent style does have an article about how he incorporates trends into his style they just come slower than most fashions

[@v_r_]

That makes sense. Even though it’s Classic Menswear, there are still some trendy aspects to it although I’ve always felt that cords were cool. But I get your point.

[@JasonCheeeseball]

@@v_r_ I didn't like it when I was younger as I only had cord in a wide wale shorts from my parents so that could be why. now that spier, drakes does them and even non menswear brands like uniqlo I love them

[@DEN3366]

How formal suede oxford shoes could go?

[@johns.5062]

my opinion is: no trouser hem should be smaller than 22cm (half width) it all depends on your shoe size though

[@v_r_]

Yes, shoe size is important and people have their preferences. But I hear you.

[@galou0090]

Dear Mr. Richè, I've always wanted to ask the "bunched shoulder" question before. I know that its very common for OTR and MTM suits to bunch up when men sit down, but is this also the case with bespoke suits? In addition to that, if you have high waisted trousers, which you usually wear with braces, is it possible to ditch the braces for more casual outfits in which you don't wear a jacket without the pants looking awful? Best of regards

[@v_r_]

Those are some great questions. So good that I’ll save my answers for my next Q&A video.

[@lisan6881]

No one asked me but high-waisted trousers without a jacket can look a little silly, especially if they are too high. I think the concept of high waisted pants have gotten a little out of control. People think if high-waisted pants are good, higher waisted pants are better, and even higher are even better, until the point they look like Charlie Chaplin pants. All pants should sit at your natural waist. That being said, anything higher will look good or bad on you depending on your body type. Some people look really good in high waisted pants and these pants are less attractive on others.

[@galou0090]

@@lisan6881 Thanks for your thoughts! I've had this idea that dress trousers look nice when they rise up to your belly button and that casual pants look best with a midrise which means waist level. I want to get different opinions to develop my taste

[@danielduggan5405]

Great answers. That lapel width comment lol. What what someone expect the answer to be? I'm with you on that one, too. I'm a thin guy, but I prefer wider lapels too. There's just something about a thinner lapel that just seems 'off' to me. Thanks for this video.

[@v_r_]

What’s up, Daniel? Wider lapels over skimpy lapels every day of the week. The funny thing is I do have a good answer for why I like and wear them, I just didn’t like the way he asked it 😂😂

[@danielduggan5405]

@@v_r_ I don't doubt it. I wonder if these people who are rude on KZbin would act the same way in person.

[@v_r_]

I highly doubt it. Highly doubt it.

[@jrlee31]

When are you coming back? Hope soon.

[@bernardgallo2884]

Hey Vladimir, love the channel. A bit off the subject, but I’ve reached out to Spier and McKay, both by phone and email and have gotten zero response. Do you know if they’re having issues there? Thanks

[@v_r_]

Thanks, Bernard! That’s odd, how long has it been? My advice would be to reach out through Instagram if you have an account. They’re very responsive on there in my experience.

[@bernardgallo2884]

It’s been a week, and I’m not on social media, Facebook, Instagram, none of it. I got an auto response through email it would take 3 business days. It’s been over 5.

[@v_r_]

Cool! Let me see if I can find out what’s going on and get back to you.

[@bernardgallo2884]

@@v_r_I really appreciate it, thank you so much. I’m trying to buy some shirts! LOL

[@eyeheartsushi2212]

My first impression of Spier & McKay is a puzzled one. I’ve only purchased one item from them, which is a made to order shirt. Got an email when the order was received, then zero updates for weeks (it was the holidays during COVID so I didn’t care much), and then I declined a phone call from Canada which I’m guessing it *was* Spier & McKay letting me know they were about to ship the shirt. I couldn’t confirm though because they left no voicemail 😂😂😂. The order arrived about a week after that call attempt. The shirt came in with *zero* paperwork: no invoice, no order summary, nothing. Just the shirt inside a box 😂😂😂. I didn’t even get a “your order has been delivered” confirmation email. The shirt looks good and the fit is great, so that part is good.

[@royrayburn1503]

I too have reached out to SPIER AND MCKAY BY PHONE AND EMAIL NO RESPONSE CAN YOU LET THEM KNOW?

[@EJChevy]

Do you wear caddy hats?

[@VanWatches]

Do you have a watch collection? If so can you share?

[@v_r_]

That’s a question. How many watches is considered a collection?

[@VanWatches]

@@v_r_ even 2 is fine. It’s always interesting seeing those deep into menswear what are their preferences for accessories/jewelry

[@v_r_]

No doubt! I will definitely film one as it’s on my list.

[@MrGeekyapple]

Man your lapels is gorgeous

[@v_r_]

Appreciate it, Ivan!

[@tonydeltablues]

I'm subscribed; I ain't no hater. x Tony p.s Besides Drakes, what other tie companies do you like?

[@v_r_]

What’s up, Tony? I actually don’t like Drake’s ties as I feel they’re overpriced and don’t come in 9cm. I wear Shibumi and E.G. Cappelli mostly but I also have something special coming down the pipe soon. Stay tuned.

[@tonydeltablues]

@@v_r_Interesting to hear your thoughts on Drakes. I tend to look for quality, feel, colour and texture when I buy ties....look forward to future videos on the subject :-)

[@Oh_Richard]

Forest Whitaker took a break from acting to create a Mens Wear channel.

[@v_r_]

My wife said I’m much better looking but shoutout to Forest 😂😂

[@danielfrancis3660]

Permanent Style tick tick tick

[@v_r_]

SC is the man!

[@TimMarco7]

9:37 😂😂😂

[@darenius3105]

I’ve never seen any Pair of English shoes on your channel. Don’t you like brands like Tricker’s, C&J, Loake? Shut out from Chicago.

[@S_Kane]

0:06 ohh boi…

[@v_r_]

🔥🔥

[@stevenkirk2762]

Never really noticed your suit shoulders, usually I'm just like, damn, that's a nice suit, damn that's a nice shirt, damn that's a nice tie, ect, ect.

[@v_r_]

Interesting! But the funny part is as someone pointed out, he may not be referring to the top of my shoulders but rather where the shirt sleeves are inserted into the jacket. Mines have a shirring called Spalla Camicia. I’ll talk about it in my next Q&A.

[@adbeellopez4792]

Wide lapels are classic and are much better than the wack thin and cheap looking lapels

[@v_r_]

Facts!

[@paigeofstylez]

2nd

[@v_r_]

Notification game 💪🏾

[@eyeheartsushi2212]

First

[@v_r_]

You’re the man!

[@toniobarros4412]

Mr. Greetings, I am a big fan of your channel, why don't you wear Ascott often when you do wear unbutton shirts. don't be a hater and give feedback.

[@v_r_]

Haha...what’s up, Tonio? One thing about me is I don’t really like anything that brings extra attention to itself. And to me, an ascot or even a bowtie are good examples of that. Not to say anything is wrong with them as some do it well, they’re just not for me.

[@SirMopy]

I don‘t understand comfortable clothes joggers trainers/sneakers..?! A well fitting suit, shirt is extremely comfortable and IMO especially the pants/trousers are more comfortable than joggers.... and I don‘t wear shoes inside... When I go outside nice well fitting shoes are comfy, like sneakers........ they are just more elegant.