Smyth Beetle ute fender install

New technique for installing the quarter panels that can save A LOT of time and and pain. You do have to decide before you cut the car. But this technique gives you a factory door gap and eliminates a bunch of body work.

[@mikejf4377]

Another great video trying to help everyone with there UTE's.

[@davidhyson9910]

Andrew, that's is absolutely a "Pro Tip"! That has to save so much time as well as no fuss inside that door jamb. You got me itchin for a Beetle Build. Great work!

[@dennisfehrer5004]

Built mine 2 years ago,this would have saved a lot of time. Bodywork took longer than the build.Greatly appreciate your videos.Would not have been able to do the kit without them. Its a lot of fun to be at a car show and have people gather around my beetle and have a guy with his new Corvette throw dirty looks at me.Does the kit now have a solid floor bed instead of the corrugated aluminum? i used 2 pieces of aluminum flat sheet with a piano hinge in the middle to access the spare,and sealed the sheets with easily removable zipseal.The aluminum stock was $ 230.Yikes.

[@richsmith6952]

Great tips. I know it took me a lot more time doing this than it would have with your tips. Thanks for sharing!

[@dannyo2411]

super, thanks

[@davidhyson9910]

Hey Andrew, after the Panel Bond kicks off on your 4" and 2" custom cuts are you coming back to those holes with flush rivets? The panel bond seems so stout that I wonder over the long haul about the witness of the rivet showing through. I like that you mentioned the B Pilar to bed placement. Staying square and knowing where it will end up at the tailgate must be critical. And as you say, they will vary from car to car. Good stuff!

[@hesty32]

Yes for sure. I remove the self tapping screws then slightly countersink the hole. More of a de-burring really then fill 80% cabosil/epoxy and the rest body filler

[@davidhyson9910]

@@hesty32 I've used the Dewalt and Milwaukee Counter sink tool. I've got a small pile I need to re-sharpen. Is there a better alternative to those?

[@hesty32]

@@davidhyson9910 Ive got an inexpensive Irwin set and it has lasted a long time. I'm sure they can be resharpened.

[@gpcirillo]

Great adaptation! As it turns out, I am at the stage where I cut back the outer skin but I have not cut back along the door edge on either side. On my driver's side I have about 1.5" of skin that I can use to slide the fiberglass behind. On the passenger side it is even less (like 3/4"). So, I don't think 3/4" is enough bonding surface for the modification. So, I may be doing one side this way, and one side the old way. Do you think 1.5" is enough? Once you cut back that side panel, you can't go back to the old way!

[@hestermannmotorwerks]

I think 3/4 over lap is enough. You are still going to have more surface area than the traditional two pads. It will just be a little tricky working that body seam with only 3/4 inch to feather you filler. But doable!

[@gpcirillo]

@@hestermannmotorwerks thanks! Leaving the door jamb as from the factory is a HUGE benefit. Thank you so much!

[@Stumann6661]

How do you bond the f'glass to the steel?

[@hestermannmotorwerks]

I like 3M panel bond. Then a couple of screws until the panel bond cures. Remove the screws and bodywork the holes