7 easy 3D printed upgrades for your Ender 3

[@BippyMiester]

00:00 - Intro 00:15 - Summary 00:39 - Fan Cover 01:03 - Common Issues 01:52 - Filament Guides 04:16 - Z-Axis Shims 06:13 - LCD PCB Cover 08:06 - Hot End Cooling Duct 12:40 - Ribbon Cable Clip 13:30 - Honorable Mentions 14:22 - Outro

[@Noahvr86]

thanks

[@samuelbrewer6986]

Speaking of z axis binding, I too had that issue. I resolved it quite easily by rolling the z screw across a flat wooden surface with moderate pressure. This fixed my issues as my z screw was slightly warped. I have been using my printer daily for months, and with some basic cleaning and maintenance, have had no further issues with the performance of my printer.

[@standardengineco.7428]

The 3D community is amazing, I know machinists were becoming KZbin friendly, but this is such a jump forward.

[@petetbates8111]

Just got my ender 3 , so thx . Nice to see someone still going through install, instead of showing some of the relevant in time lapse.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for watching.

[@compubyte2010]

Great job Michael, Not just explaining how things are done etc. but the way you say it. not to fast. and not to slow. .. definitely the upgrades I"m going to put on my Ender 3 when it comes in!

[@mrjtwill]

Just bought a Ender-3 and will have it in a couple of days. I already own a Anet A8 and have only used it for a couple of weeks. I am enjoying 3d printing as a possible new hobby. I bought the Ender-3 because I like the idea of a more solid frame and some experience with a bowden system. I appreciate your videos and the information you provide. Thanks!

[@josefsteiner9401]

im very srry u bought a ender 3 lol

[@Nostradamus1981]

13:08, Make sure you dont move the axis too fast - it lit up the LCD when you moved the bed back. Do it slowly, otherwise you risk damaging the drivers or motherboard.

[@TeachingTech]

You're totally right. Normally I'm more careful with this.

[@charliebell7163]

8:19 I literally just hotglued a second blower flan with a shroud to the other side makes a big difference

[@nathanwang2010]

I've printed all the upgrades in this video. Yes, these upgrades are helpful. Thanks thingiverse.

[@archlocker]

thank you teaching tech aswell!

[@briankerr4490]

How do you attach the first design.

[@loganeasley4343]

For the petsfang v2 he printed, I have a few questions. 1.) Which model does he print in the video? There are like three files on thingiverse that say CR10, so I’m not sure which one to print 2.) Do I need any extra hardware? He mentions using the stock screws a few times, but there is one bolt in particular he doesn’t comment on 3.) Should I just print the newer “Bullseye” model because this video is about a year old?

[@the_crazy_bee1787]

@@loganeasley4343 What did you end up going with?

[@loganeasley4343]

@@the_crazy_bee1787 I ended up going with the Bullseye, there’s a bunch more documentation and a table for which files to print based on what hardware you have. It’s served me well for the year that I’ve had it, and I’ve only had to replace it once when I bumped into it by accident. I would highly recommend it, haha.

[@MakersMuse]

Great list of updates and glad to see the X3D Filament! Yeah I think that middle version was just bad QC and I got a bad one. The latest version has a removable bed and everyone seems to love it.

[@TeachingTech]

I watched your live stream during my review period, was amazed at poorly it was printing. Thanks very much for watching and commenting.

[@austincampbell3796]

Indeed

[@dickpunchlollipop]

I agree. I've tried many of the other local options and X3D seems to be the best filament I've come across - especially as I can just drive to their warehouse in Perth if I run out of something I need. I think the worst was Blueprint3D. The package came from NSW to WA without a box (the filament boxes were taped together with a shipping tag slapped on) and the PLA, PETG and TPU rolls would print for about three minutes before snapping. Yes, even the TPU snapped. It was $350 essentially flushed down the toilet.

[@eric853]

Better PCB Cover using Factory Screws. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100 Nicer looking Ribbon Cable Cover www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989832

[@abarasabwehttam]

Should check out 3D-FUEL.com. In my opinion the best PLA on the market. They have 3 grades, depending on strength and heat resistance you want. The top is as strong as ABS and we have used it to print casting prototypes and machine them in our CNC Mills.

[@chimeranzl9147]

that's sold me on the ender 3 (vs cr10). i like the bigger print bed of the cr10, but with these mods the ender3 (also being newer) will be the better option for my needs. thanks!

[@Waltkat]

Thanks for making this video. I'd like to add one caution about using that filament guide on the extruder. Over time it becomes loose and during a print it can come off the metal bracket and jam up the filament causing the extruder to start skipping misfeed. This happened to me several times. I solved it by drilling out the hole for the filament in the extruder arm where the filament normally goes through to slide a short piece of Bowden tube through. The hole is sized so that the short piece of tube is a tight enough fit to keep it from moving. The tube is long enough to clear the threaded Z rod and is pushed far enough in through the extruder arm so that it's almost touching the filament feed rollers to minimize flexing of the filament which is especially important when printing with flexible material such as TPU and Nylon.

[@TeachingTech]

Great tip, thank you.

[@mlg_teletubby9391]

Thanks for the video. I just ordered my first printer today, and this helps give me ideas on things I can print to get everything working right as well as getting to know the software/printer.

[@yourlocaltyrecentre9424]

Yet again you come through with the goods! Thanks for spending the time to share this with us.

[@TheSoloDIYer]

By far one of the best Ender 3 info sources on youtube. Thank you very much for making these videos!

[@TheSocialGamer]

I'm getting the Ender 3 as my first ever 3D Printer...! Can't wait till arrives.! Already have printing MODs to do when I set it all up. Nice quality of life parts.

[@SheepdogShaun]

At 13:08 when you push your bed back, you notice the screen lights up. You just generated power with your stepper motors. This can damage your electronics so I suggest not doing that. You can still manually push the bed or hot end but slow it down so that the steppers don't generate enough power to mess anything up.

[@TeachingTech]

You're spot on, I was too quick here. Interestingly enough to smoothers have the bonus of protecting from this.

[@NAANsoft]

At 7:13 you assumed that you would need longer bolts. I my experience that was not needed., The constructor has made the bolt holes in the cover so that the original can be used - you just have to push them down the bolt hole (easy enough when you knowk that it is possible). I did that and it fits nicely.

[@logan8374]

I have been looking into the Ender 3 Pro for a while now. Literally just bought it as I'm watching your video. However, not from amazon. I went on a site called Banggood and they have the Pro model for 206.00, 30.00 dollars cheaper than on Amazon. They also have a coupon that expires on September 15th, and the shipping was free too! All in all I paid 194.00 for the whole thing! I reviewed the site and it looks like a reputable company so fingers crossed. Thank you for the inspiration! I will join the Ender gang soon.

[@ATS3788]

I mounted my Roll of Filament on the left side and that works perfectly !!!!

[@highquad884]

I use a carbon fiber plate as my printing bed. A little gluestick and everything sticks well. If the print is done, I remove the plate from the printer, twist it and the print comes off easily. Then I put the plate under water to clean it.

[@TeachingTech]

Carbon fibre plate! Never heard of that. If I come across a sheet I will try it.

[@highquad884]

Teaching Tech yeah you should give it a try. Make sure your plate is around 1mm thick

[@OIFEagle]

Found this while doing research on what printers to buy as a beginner. I'll definitely take these into consideration should I get the Ender 3.

[@sypeiterra7613]

Love this, wish we could print a fan blade, the hot end fan melted when a threaded part came loose and oozed a ton of filament through and killed the fan

[@justin64598]

These are some nice finds. The filament guides made a huge difference!

[@whatthefrack6425]

I just got my first printer and it's an Ender 3. I've been watching these excellent vids for the guidance and information on what to do :) Fan guard printed and fixed in place :) Now to continue with this vid and printing and fixing :D Thank you for these absolutely excellent videos!

[@TeachingTech]

You're welcome, thanks for watching.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

@@TeachingTech you may know now but the reason the z motor binds is the bracket isn't bent perfectly square. Reshape the bracket to a perfect 90 degrees and you won't need the spacers

[@make3d566]

My first printer is the Ender 3 aswel. Had it for some time now and think I have it running just as it should be. They can be a temprimental beast for sure but the results for an entry level printer are astounding.

[@MyersMushroomsFarms]

Side mount bracket for the spool is way better than the little extender attachment, moves whole spool to next to the feeder. Also the spool reel inserts so the spool spins on its axis.

[@CluelessSi]

Spool reel inserts, got link? Also i was wondering if the side mount is better or not since the angle of the feed will change with the amount of filament left.

[@Jukaal]

@@CluelessSi It's still much better on the side. Way less of a harsh angle and so the filament doesn't wear away the extruder plastic. I also suggest an all metal extruder as well.

[@BrickThunder]

I just got the ender 3 and it’s amazing! I also have a Cr-10! The ender is very great for starting. I had no fails so far, it’s first print was amazing! And the second print was flexible, yes... this $200 printer can print flexible!!! It’s so cool! I definitely recommend this printer!!

[@TeachingTech]

Glad to hear your experience is so positive.

[@sachinsaravanan3664]

for the one to fix the exposed PCB behind the LCD screen you can use the same bolts

[@puzzlemagnet1957]

Great video my printer arrives in 3 days, first thing I will do after assembly is to follow this tutorial upgrade. Quality explanations and camera angles, keep it up

[@carlnikolov]

Did you get your printer yet? How did it go?

[@puzzlemagnet1957]

@@carlnikolov yes I got my printer, from the moment I unpack it I knew it was quality, all the materials feels really solid and all the parts were nicely pack and organise. I took me about an hour to assemble , was really easy I just followed youtube tutorial, The printer itself is really good printing and I already made the 4 upgrades with self printed parts. I am a 3d artist so I am, having plenty fun creating things and printing them out. I recommend anyone this printer. is really amazing for the price.

[@carlnikolov]

@@puzzlemagnet1957 are you using cura design program?

[@puzzlemagnet1957]

​@@carlnikolov I use cura only to set the prints, for my 3d creations I use autodesk Maya, I am a professional of the 3d modeling industry

[@markfryer9880]

I have been looking at getting an Ender 3 and this video was reassuring for me after watching Angus do his review. I was impressed by this video and hit like, subscribe and the bell straight after viewing.

[@lordsanityfree]

"Let's remove these." TT: Snaps them off. Me: Has to get a jackhammer and a blowtorch...

[@shypht8648]

That was amazing and very ingenious with the fan mods. Great video

[@04GEEDOGG]

Hey I just wanted to Thank You for your Ender 3 videos I just set it up today and I've printed 5 of your 7 upgades and they all came out pretty good.

[@TeachingTech]

Glad to hear.

[@TiagoRamosVideos]

Very interesting 👌

[@Awsometurtle20]

the z axis binding can be fixed by flipping the rod and loosen the brass colored part and tightening it after. fixed the binding in my ender 3 v1 but i may print the part in the future if binding ever occurs

[@jyotipranhaloi6227]

Your videos are simple and easy to understand. 👍👍👍

[@AdamsLab]

Thanks for going through all of these, really helpful. Just got my Ender 3.

[@swaldoski]

Thank you very much for the links for the upgrades

[@TeachingTech]

No problem. Planning a follow up with more printable upgrades now that the printer has been in the wild for longer.

[@swaldoski]

Teaching Tech I just got my ender 3 from Amazon 3 days ago. Used it the 1st time last night did the test print.Now going to start on the upgrades listed above.The cable guard is pretty cool looking.thanks again

[@kentharris7427]

I'm getting my Ender 3 next week. These items will be my first build. This being my first 3D printer. I will implement your ideas. I am an HP certified Printer Tech and know the value of making these modifications to make the printer last longer. Thank you for your video.

[@mbowlin07]

I was on the fence about getting this. Watching this video I feel like if there are problems most are going to be managable. Thanks and you gained a sub today!

[@shehulsuratwala2684]

There is one more mod. Tool holder that goes on the top of the printer to hold allen keys and scraper.

[@TeachingTech]

Good suggestion.

[@franksimon8375]

Ayyyy

[@DS-pr1iw]

I am about to order one, and I was trying to think of what my first few prints should be, and this is perfect.

[@aahhhhhhhhhh]

These are all great and if I get this I will print all of these except the last one. The past one is complicated and there is an easier print on thingyverse that just clip's on to the bottom of the turbo fan to direct the flow better. It's much easier to print to

[@4b14z3]

I've bought the anycubic ultrabase for my ender 3 it's the best surface I've tried. There's one ultrabase for the ender 3 listed on the creality store on aliexpress. That's going to be my next go to

[@TeachingTech]

I have one sitting around, I'll probably put it on for my BLtouch video. Stay tuned.

[@zaxteh1]

Thanks! Those are amazing upgrades! great for newbie like me..

[@justinbeer3778]

Excellent video very useful information, I ordered my Ender 3 from eBay Australia I'm definitely printing and installing all these upgrades straight away.

[@2e0lgz]

Thanks for this it was very informative i have one on order and these will be my first experiments.....well done 👍

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for watching and happy printing :)

[@johnnysimon29]

the petsfang is meant to be printed flat with supports from the base only. There are six channels inside that might not print right upright.

[@TylerWiebe-j1j]

@johnnysimon Hey man can you point me towards which petsfang to use? I can't find the correct one to print

[@saow]

Great ! Thanks ! Your explananations are super clear !

[@davidtison3737]

Good video, but in need of some updates... (1) The fan guard has been updated with vertical fins to avoid needing support during printing, (2) The PCB LCD cover has been modified to allow using the factory screws, (3) The slide on filament guide has numerous complaints of squeaking noises, and failure to remain attached

[@BangBangBo]

Subbed! Thanks for the video. Snagged mine on Prime Day for $159 USD. Look forward to future videos.

[@KBBAKTHA]

brilliant upgrades for ender 3. Thanks

[@ossme]

great job as usual mate. Happy printing!

[@ilikenothingtoo]

Isn't the Petfang designed to be printed laying down? I had zero issues printing it flat.

[@TeachingTech]

You are quite right, I didn't realise at the time.

[@GrafitTomi]

Its a very clever design. And yes printed it laying flat too. No supports needed at all.

[@jessecelli6740]

U should print yourself a T handle for ur allen wrench it helps alot when working on the printer

[@connors1746]

I has similar Z axis grinding when I built my Ender 3, I found that losening the screws that hold the Z-axis wheels on did the trick for me.

[@EliasOda]

Top video mate...Very simple to follow I cant wait fir the BLtouch..... I recently just bought one for ender 3 but i have no wiring experience cant wait for that awsome video

[@TeachingTech]

Should be in the next couple of weeks.

[@crashmaxx1987]

Thank you for telling me about the z axis spacers! I've been struggling with it jamming all day. Trying to print a mini figure and every time it would get to the head, the z axis would jam and wreck it. Finally I can get it to work!

[@Bryan-Hensley]

I know this is old now, but the bracket isn't bent a perfect 90 degrees is why that motor was binding.

[@danielthackeray7798]

Maybe. But the real problem is that the bracket comes pre-assembled onto the motor, and most people just screw the bracket to the frame. If the bracket is loosened from the motor before it is screwed to the frame, and then the motor tightened down on the bracket, it lines up perfectly with the frame and shims are not needed.

[@TheBetterGame]

Thank you so much for this. I've got one of the in the mail on its way to me right now! Cant learn enough.

[@TrondSkar]

Great video! Had my Ender 3 for a while but have only upgraded it with the Petsfang and extruder filament guide. Going to do almost all the mods you have linked to now! :D

[@TeachingTech]

Awesome, thanks for watching.

[@adbaladba]

Thank you. Keep up good work sir!

[@gemberkoekje]

Hey there, I have filament, but it's not on a roll, it's just a plastic bag with the filament curled up in it. Is there any roll or spool I can print to make it a bit easier? Currently I just have this curled filament lying next to my Ender 3 or hanging up on the filament holder, but it usually falls off. Anyone has any ideas or tips? Also thanks for this and other videos you did on the Ender 3, it's really helping me understand and improve my knowledge on 3D printing!

[@dingokorn]

You need to buy a master spool or print one. it's to make the pla cheaper and you slid it on the master spool

[@gemberkoekje]

@@dingokorn Thanks! I was sure there was something to work with, but I had no idea what to look for ;)

[@shaunwhiteley3544]

Excellent, getting mine on Sunday 😀 cheers

[@dombaines]

Good luck, it seems to a nice printer

[@dombaines]

Funny first thing this morning my print barfed part way through c40% or 2 hr print, I connected up an iMAC and thought I'd try Cura & USB print not copy to SD card. Forgot the screen save/sleep settings in the iMAc will effect Cura...not sure that is ideal however the printer seems to have just frozen, with heaters still on etc. The nozzle had melted a nice hole in the PLA on another component on the bed ...but the "Filament guide snap in (up high)" had printed enough to be usable, the rest was junk. Lucky was in the room still :-)

[@TeachingTech]

Upgrading firmware to enable thermal runaway protection makes the process worthwhile for that alone. Glad it ended up ok.

[@dombaines]

Yes I think I might just have to and accept it voids the warranty.

[@HugDeeznueces]

Nice upgrades! Can't wait to get my printer and get them done and installed. Sub'd

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

Nice video, I just got my Ender 3 and will be trying all these mods. Happy New Year!

[@einsvonzehn]

Nice upgrades, thanks.

[@TylerWiebe-j1j]

@TeachingTech Which piece is the larger one for the new fan duct? I found the smaller piece, but you never mentioned the name of the other one. I don't know maybe he changed the model, or maybe i'm just not the sharpest knife in the drawer

[@jeremyfasola4276]

Thanks about that! I have the same issue with the Z-motor not being aligned (which disallows the motor to push the X-axis bar). However, I also have an issue with the bed not being flat, which is a problem (not super fan of buying a glass as everyone else).

[@TeachingTech]

Automatic bed levelling in an option that can fix that without resorting to glass.

[@mattevans7352]

Thanks Michael for this video! I've printed and implemented most of these on my Ender 3 Pro. I'm debating whether to do the cable-chain or just use cable-ties. Subbed!

[@PowerRepublic]

awesome video my friend, after all your reviews, I have a ender 3 coming in a couple of weeks/months depending on the covid shipping process. Thanks for getting me started.

[@RixtronixLAB]

Nice video clip, keep it up , thank you for sharing :)

[@jameswebb8162]

Awesome video thanks for the info!

[@TeamMayku]

Great vid. This printer could work great with the FormBox.

[@spikeydapikey1483]

Very helpful video. Cheers :)

[@HowTo11414]

12:49 "pewdiepie earnings" LOL im dying. look in the top right

[@wobler4992]

69 likes. Noice...

[@HowTo11414]

@@wobler4992 noice

[@GielL96]

good eye

[@Hairysteed]

9:07 Why on earth was that part printed upright instead of on its back so you don't need the supports?!

[@Mephiston]

If you recommend upgrade parts (such as the bowden connector things that you mentioned around 1:50) can you leave direct links to the products so we know what they are, please? Thanks.

[@TeachingTech]

Fixed.

[@Mephiston]

Thank you very kindly. I've seen many videos recommending it, but only one person linked them, and they were an amazon US link, which is all kinds of bad news for Australians.

[@TeachingTech]

Now that I know you're in Aus, try this link: www.bilby3d.com.au/DispProd.asp?CatID=&SubCatID=89&ProdID=ptTubeFit4 Got plenty of hardware from them over the years.

[@Mephiston]

Oh cool, thanks very much mate!

[@dombaines]

And really bad if in UK :-)

[@1SIMONdeGEKKE1]

Amazing video!

[@hasagreenlaser4229]

Thanks for this, really appreciated!

[@Keldor314]

Is that shroud "safe" to print in PLA? It looks awfully close to the hot end, and PLA can soften and start sagging just from being left in a hot car. You should probably take it apart and inspect it after a few prints, and especially check it if you print with a material requiring a hotter end, such as PETG.

[@TeachingTech]

Agreed I'm going to reprint in black abs with the duct face down on the flat.

[@nerys71]

no need. you will never get enough heat across that airgap to effect the part in pla. NOW if you intend to use an enclosure. ok you would need something other than PLA possibly.

[@fortunefed8719]

I'm really late, but shouldn't the airflow from the fans keep everything cool enough?

[@polson8084]

Really excellent video 👍 Super helpful and I appreciate that you actually show each step, disassemble and assemble. One thing...I wonder if it would be helpful to regularly recommend that the printer be unplugged before working on it...?

[@RandomPerson-jd7cm]

i use a slightly more expensive creality cr 10s with a much bigger print volume. almost everyting fit including a vent ring i found on thingiverse.

[@shanewilson2152]

Great video 👍

[@doublelc]

please upload your version of Petsfang duct. thanks

[@ThOoMii013]

Tnx for the vid, but what I really would like to see is the preparation for each upgrade in de slicer software. That is what really teaches us how to properly setup the gcode. I love the ender 3 so far. But there is such an overwhelming amount on information on the interwebz and most of the time the youtubers skip the part of the preparation and go straight to the print it self of the review of the already printed part! Tnx !!

[@TeachingTech]

I can see your point but that would make a very long video. Perhaps a general video on print orientation and settings would be better?

[@ThOoMii013]

That would be perfect

[@ThOoMii013]

Teaching Tech it al starts with leveling the bed. But i cant seem to get the bed 100%. I know there are a lot of other videos but not one specific for the ender 3. Since this is going to be probably one of the most popular printers I would love to see a bed levering video just for the ender 3. I think it already starts with the wheels underneath the bed. But you probably know that beter than me! :-p

[@YanBousquet]

What is your opinion on side feeding the spool instead of the brackets to guide the filament, I've booked marked all you vids, I'm inpressed by the quality of your videos. thank you

[@Crixe]

At 10 min in you say it only requires one screw but it has a reset screw for a second screw. It's supposed to have two holding it in place using the factory mounting screws that's why the fan doesn't screw in on the corner.

[@agalpar]

Is there a way to shut down the printer after a print and could you please tell me what is the best practice for turning off the printer as well. Thanks !

[@TeachingTech]

Difficult to shut it down completely. The end gcode should already be set to shut off the heaters and stepper motors.

[@richardharmon1874]

Great upgrades. However, can you provide a file link for each upgrade shown? I find many useful and cannot locate the file for printing. Thanks Rich

[@dombaines]

Waiting for the videos... how you add the BLTouch if you have the Petsfang duct fitted as I was a tad stumped on the mounting. The duct takes the place the BLTouch should go normally with the Ender 3. BTW don't need to add supports etc you print the duct flat... says so in the thingverse docs. Adding a glass plate to mine as seemed to make printing easier.

[@TeachingTech]

The bltouch can go wherever you want, you only have to set the offset from the nozzle in the firmware. The mounting tab on the fang should be plenty I think. Will reprint the duct flat from ABS.

[@dombaines]

if you add a glass plate to your Ender3 printer (or any printer I think) don't forget to move the Z-Axis stop switch UP by the thickness of the new bed before you re-level. I found out as there isn't enough play in the bed springs to allow for it and that is the solution (some printers do have that much play!) You obviously loose that little bit of build height. But just two screws to adjust on the Z-axis limit switch back plate which can be adjusted up and down, you loosen the screw and move it upwards the thickness of the new bed addition then fine-tune downward before normal leveling. No messing about with software adjusting Z level offsets in GCODE.

[@TeachingTech]

Good tip.

[@shryx86]

I like the filament path tweaks, but wouldn't the best option be to remove the spool from the frame and set it beside the printer? Even with the upgrades, there are several points where the filament will rub against plastic.

[@TeachingTech]

I personally prefer to have a printer in one piece for when I move it. For anyone else your suggestion is ideal.

[@henrifpv2868]

thanks for your videos!

[@brandonc8350]

You Need to install diodes, when you pushed the bed back your lcd lit up due to the electrons generated by the steppers, I’d hate to see you burn out the pcb, would make a cool video !

[@denisvitorino8022]

8:25 You´re supposed to print it laid down.

[@TeachingTech]

Correct.

[@xivid1234]

Great Video! Thanks!

[@BlizAce256]

when I added supports for the fang duct it also added them inside the duct as well

[@TeachingTech]

Most slicers have the option to only add support from the build surface.

[@randellcoffman3290]

well I looked thru all of the files and chart on Petsfang for the fan mount and duct, but none of them looked like the ones you are using. I'm I missing something? Did they change the file design? I have an Ender3 the same as in the video.

[@brianh.000]

Upvoted for train whistle. :)

[@andrewwoodward5502]

can u direct me to the fan duct you are using as its not in the petsfang files thankyou keep up he great videos