Washing Machine Not Spinning? How to Fix/Repair it by Replacing the Clutch, Kenmore 90 Series Washer

[@BasicFolders]

Never mind appliance repair, you need to teach people how to make How-To videos! *EXTREMELY WELL DONE!* Thank you! 👍

[@frankrinchiuso3380]

Thanks for being to the point complete fast enough for my adhd brain to stay with you and with respect to the viewers intelligence. Washing machine breaks your already stressed so putting on a "welcome to your first day on planet earth" video or "let me tell you the story of my first Washing machine purchase back in 49'... for 15 minutes before i tell you what to do.....does not help set the stage for all of the cursing thats going to take place!! Really well done! Thanks 😊🙏

[@Weregonnamakeit]

What a great video. Very to the point with excellent camera work and description of tools needed. This was exactly my problem. I ordered the parts, via the link provided, from amazon last week and within 2 hours today, my washer was back to full duty. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. So many giving the wrong advice to the problem, this was spot on. Awesome job Phil! Cheers!

[@CCManchesterTutor]

My Series 90 is not agitating BUT it wasn’t the coupler (which other videos often point to) SO I am very happy to see this CLUTCH replacement option. Very easy to follow, especially after having already removed washer cabinet cover and motor to investigate coupler! THANKS!

[@FixItPhil]

You're welcome, glad it helped!

[@randysorenson8132]

I pulled the inner tub out to clean it, and it sound like water is trapped some where in the inner tub. Any suggestions? Also, when reassembling, should the spindle be greased? Thanks!

[@calvinhua3801]

After I replaced the New clutch, I tested before I put it back to the machine, the clutch is spinning but when I tried to hold the shaft, it can be stop ,I mean I can stop the shaft spinning easily. Can you tell me why? Thanks a lot

[@FixItPhil]

Hm, sorry I'm not sure.

[@kbauermann]

I think I'm having the same issue. I've replaced the clutch, coupler is good, suspecting it might be the Drive Block #389140 --> kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWWyZKFpp55keJY

[@lisamacdonald78]

All three were bad. Thank you. $20 a few beers and back in action. this is my wife's account I am Big E

[@FixItPhil]

Nice, glad you got it working again!

[@zanzbarr9160]

my agitator slips during wash now. is it maybe a face mask that slipped down underneath? or is clutch going out?

[@FixItPhil]

It's not that common for garments to slip down around the tub and get caught underneath. If your drum is slipping, it's possible the brake pads are defective or worn down.

[@jlouiscollins]

The 285790 looks to be too large for my kenmore series 90

[@TheMurphyslaw44]

There's lots of yelling going on about the clutch being too big right now....

[@_Common_Logic_]

My agitator isn't turning during the wash OR spin cycle. It's not turning free as if the cogs are stripped. It turns freely (by hand) clockwise, but is an immovable force when I try to manually turn it counter-clockwise. Would this be the same problem or is that clutch for the continuous spin cycle only?

[@FixItPhil]

Hm, there are two parts that could prevent the agitator from working correctly: the clutch and the feed dogs. To check if it could be the clutch, as shown in this video, put your machine in spin cycle and depress the activation lever (see 0:22). If the entire drum isn't spinning, the clutch is the problem. If the clutch appears to be working properly, check the feed dogs, found inside the agitator (see 0:49). If any of the 4 "teeth" found on the underside of the agitator cam are worn or broken, this could prevent the agitator from moving during the wash cycle, but they are easily replaced. Here's the replacement part: geni.us/BQiEVf [Amazon Affiliate Product Link]

[@_Common_Logic_]

@@FixItPhil - I replaced the dawgs about 2 months ago as they were chewed up and broken... All was fine except for a loud single "Bang" between cycles that's been there since we bought the machine used 9 years ago... Upon removing the motor assembly, I found that the coupler was shattered so I ordered a new one and also a clutch kit as it was only about 10 bucks in hope that the "bang" goes away. The old clutch was original and probably slipping a bit anyway... There's always the possibility of a bad bearing, but the machine ran fine (until now) with the exception of the one clunk per cycle that we've grown to know and love ;-) The clutch arrived today... Still waiting for the coupler. Thank you for your response and the video. It made disassembly a breeze.

[@_Common_Logic_]

@@FixItPhil - The parts are in and the original problems are solved, but... Now in a seemingly unrelated issue, The machine filled, washed... and that's it. The pump didn't drain the water so the machine won't enter spin cycle... I put it on spin (before reinstalling the machine) while empty and it did work in the spin cycle. I'm assuming it won't now because of the water level. My particular machine had the large, flat Molex muti-connector on the motor, but also had a smaller two-wire connector AND a circut going to a capacitor mounted on the side of the motor. All are connected. Any ideas as to what could be keeping the machine from emptying? There is NO noise whatsoever from the machine or switching after the wash cycle ends and the pump should start. This all worked great before I pulled my drive system... I also replaced the inner drum that was pretty beat-up if that helps. The sock drawer is getting empty! Hahaha.

[@FixItPhil]

Ok, I'm thinking it could be the actuating switch but you said you were able to get the machine to spin before it filled up with water; this switch should also turn on the drain pump at the same time, but just to verify, put the machine in spin cycle and manually depress the switch with a key or screwdriver (see 0:23). If you don't hear the pump or motor kick in, then the switch isn't working properly. The circuit could be disconnected, or maybe the housing is cracked and no longer gives enough support/lift for the pin on the washing machine lid to engage the switch. If you replaced the drum, I'm guessing you opened the control panel up top and removed the front part of the cabinet to do this. It's possible the lid switch connector under the panel is just loose/disconnected. If you find do need to replace the switch and have the same model washer I do, this is the part number 3949247 and you can buy them at Amazon: geni.us/q3ZyfE [Amazon Affiliate Product Link]

[@_Common_Logic_]

@@FixItPhil - Thanks for the reply and I did find the issue... You were right and maybe some other newbie will benefit from my mistake... Yes, It was operator error. I tested the machine before putting the housing back on and as I said, it worked fine... However, when putting the cabinet back on, I had the lid flipped up so I had something to hold onto... The door fell shut (missed my fingers) as I was trying to line up the bottom alignment tabs. Upon removing the switch I saw that one of the flimsy plastic screw lugs had been snapped off from the force of the door pin falling onto the interior switch. and the "sagging" switch was the problem. That plastic was brittle with age, I guess. The switch design and switches, themselves on these things are "less than awesome and my advice for anyone is to never let your lid drop into place. Always "lower" it. I just stole one from my junk pile and the wife is on her second load of "catch up" laundry now. Thanks, Phil.

[@duanes1991]

This didn't work on my Kenmore 90 Series

[@Syphyllchris]

Hey bud, Mines not draining either.

[@FixItPhil]

Sounds like it could be an issue with the drain pump. It could be clogged and need clearing out, or it could have worn out and needs to be replaced.