Prepare to be in shock! They're pricey, but worth it.

JD, yes, the process is possible with multi head unit. Check some previous comment postings on how to do it for your setup, because there are a few. Connect to the service valve on the biggest indoor unit, if one is bigger than any others.

This may sound stupid but is the gauge on during the line vac or closed

Airspool offers a 1-year buy-and-try plus 3-year parts and 5-year compressor warranty.

Correct!

No extra discount, but you'll get our extra local love and attention and a tour of the joint. In general, shipping should be less than $100 to wherever you are in the lower 48. We subsidize this heavily.

Hi, the voltage should take care of itself for this amount of wattage, but just make sure that the voltage open circuit, or Voc, from the back of the unit is between 80 and 380 volts when you add up all your panels.

Yes. Well, we're just feeding into the ductwork as an access point to downstairs. These units are all ductless, so just need to run the line set through the old duct.

Hey, the compressor has no start power like a normal on-off compressor. It's variable speed inverter compressor, so it starts very slowly. It needs less power in the beginning than it does when it's running. It ramps up to between 300 W and 1200 watts, depending on the outside air temperature and your settings for the unit and your indoor air temperature. And yes, we only have a few people who have reviewed this so far, because it's a new product, but you'll see our standard ms-12 as a lot of reviews, and this one has great reviews so far that you can find. You'll also find a couple of users that have installed this and have been made videos.

@@airspool Thank you for your quick reply! I installed a Hyper soft-start on my main ac unit this season and it too provides a ramp up of current, but only on startup. My start amps went from 77A to 22A. My unit however does not provide for the variable run current as the Airspool though. That's a "really cool" unit there. Norm

The input voltage needs to be between 80 volt and 380 volts direct current. And shoot for around 1,500 w. This tends to be a pretty optimized amount to keep the unit running off-grid during the daytime. Yes, the compressor will run on 300 w, but not fast. That's just the starting speed. It's a variable compressor so it will speed up if you give it more power. And as it reaches the set point, it will slow down automatically. If there is a large cooling load, and it's summertime, the unit needs for power, since the compressor needs more power in the summer. So, around 9:02 1200 watts and the hottest part of summer or coldest part of winter, and around 500 to 800 W in the fall and spring time when it's near the outdoor air temperature.

Yes. The compressor motor is used to pull the refrigerant back into itself.

RJS, do you have a video for this? It would be useful for our users.

@@airspool kzbin.info/www/bejne/eoasgJmLm9F3bqMsi=WuVJ3jiY3_7YLaIy

@@airspool the manufacturer of the DC connector should provide this data. FYI, many of the connectors found on Amazon are cheap plastic and will not last past 7 years and depending on how DC conductors are managed, it may start a fire.

@@airspool the manufacturer of the DC connector should provide this data. FYI, many of the connectors found on Amazon are cheap plastic and will not last past 7 years and depending on how DC conductors are managed, it may start a fire.

Hi Martha, that's a type of question we like! shop.airspool.com/

Ah, the great debate.

We have 18,000 BTU and 24,000 btu, but they are not energy star rated yet, so get in touch for the details. And we can customize the line set on the quick and easy units. For our non-DIY unit, supplyhouse.com

Yes, it's perfect for off grid. You can imagine in New Delhi, for instance, yesterday when it's 126°, and power is sketchy, this is a good solution there, too.

Hi Mike, yes, you can punch out to the right, no problem. Will do the final measurements to make sure that's also viable for the quick and easy, since normally that would go straight through the wall. Or we can customize the quick and easy to put the valves on the outdoor unit possibly if necessary. We'll discuss it.

Yes, in Sacramento, the savings are huge, because PG&E just keeps on gouging and the panel price keeps on coming lower. Check locally at Greentech Tenewable Sacramento. They have some panels and a lot of places under $0.35/watt, we're finding. And you only need 1500 watts. No need to do 2000. So for around 5 or $600 in panels, you'll be able to run for the next 25 years for free during the day there. Beats paying 35 cents a kilowatt-hour.

I’m in SMUD but, you’re right peak hours 5-8PM the rate is .35

Well, good gauges should screw on a bit before the Schrader starts pushing down. Search for environmentally friendly gauges, and those will help you save both money and save the environment from keeping refrigerant from being released.

Thank you!

www.convertunits.com/from/PSI/to/micron+mercury yes, take it down to 1000 microns.

It sounds like you really just need to add some refrigerant. No need to go through this procedure.

@@airspoolthanks for the reply! Made my day. I believe there is also a leak in the liquid line though. So I’m going to do this trick, change/fix the line, vacuum the lines again, then re release the refrigerant.

It needs between 80 volts and 380 volts of DC power from the solar panels. And then, if you want to plug in the alternating current, it needs from 110 volts to 240 volts for that. Solar will always be prioritized.

Would need to turn both zones on cooling, then follow the steps, both valves need to be closed on the high side , the when at 0 on the low side. There are some other comments further down in this list, too, that talk about multi-zone.

There is an electric solinoid valve for that circuit that opens on demand. However. The whole system would be affected when both zones are calling for cooling, not just one. We would almost be leaning towards a wiring issue that isn't opening the second zone valve.

Always in cooling mode.

Yes, and for the details, check some of the earlier comments from a year ago or something. There are some other people that also had multi-zone units with some other questions.

Hi Mike, there's actually room for improvement in this video, so we need to figure out how to write over a video and re-release this. The 7.25 in will work, but it's better to do 6.5 in from the right hand hole, or 6.75 in from the left hand hole. That gives you a little bit more room for the indoor unit to cover the whole without it being too close. Go to airspool.com/install for the details. And from the center, add 7 and 5/8 in to either of these two figures. That is, it's 7 and 5/8 in from the center to either of the holes on the left or right hand side of the mounting bracket.

Likely.

Well, in general, ceiling fans are around 75 watts, and many splits need around 500 to 1,000 watts to run the compressor, depending on the speed of the compressor or if it's an inverter compressor. When mini splits are in fan mode, usually that's only around 20 watts.

Big smiles over here upon hearing this news!

Yes. Just plug it into your inverter for nighttime. Theoretically, you could have the same voltage as the system needs for your batteries, but as of now, it's probably a lot more practical to just plug into your inverter which is fed off of your batteries.

Can I run my DC inverter ac on solar panels directly without any thing else?

Meow?

A single manifold set would only have one port that should be controlled by the valves at at the ends, as long as those valves are closed , shouldn't need to cap anything as the low side hose will go straight to the low side gauge.

The high side valve gets closed 1st the the low side valve gets closed when the gauge gets to zero. So, potentially, the compressor could pull enough to make the lines have a bit of a vacuum, but if you disconnect under these circumstances, the hissing will only be for a split second. If there's still refrigerant in the lines, that's high pressure, that will stay hissing for a while and be a very scary sound as you're losing your refrigerant as you disconnect. If you did the procedure correctly, all the refrigerant should be in the compressor.

Yes, and in air conditioning mode, not in heat mode. And then turn the unit off once all the refrigerant is back in the outdoor unit.

@@airspool mine is a inverter style. Will I have any problem getting all the Freon out? I know it’s got protection built in in the event that Freon gets low and shuts off the compressor.

Your actual results may vary.

Yes, just turn the unit on and when the refrigerants in the outdoor unit, cut the power to the outside unit.

Yes, sure. The system won't know the difference. And the system will take any alternating current, weather from an inverter or from the grid, as long as it's between 110 volts and 240 volts. So it's pretty flexible on what you feed it.

​@@airspool I don't get it. Can you feed the hybrid unit with AC or DC current? Does one need a rectifier to use the AC current?

No, very few do. But that's now. A few years from now, we think many will, since the cost of solar panels is approaching zero, almost literally. By 2025, the cost per what is forecasted to be 10 cents wholesale price. Right now, it's pretty easy to find solar panels for 25 cents or what, meaning that you could power or 1 ton of air conditioning for 25 years for around $350. It becomes a no-brainer.

Hi Mike, the indoor unit is 33.07 in wide. For some of these specifics, refer to airspool.com/install and check out some of the installation videos for the Airspool unit on KZbin.