would these work with inverter type freezers?

Anything you would change to this project? This has inspired me to do same thing

Instead of adding a spunding valve to your keg, just attach a line to the top of the fermenter. Gravity will start the transfer, and the co2 from the keg will flow into the top of the fermenter. You’ll have a closed transfer. Less CO2 usage and less parts. I did the same thing with my Catalyst and it works a treat.

beer tastes good.

Interesting alcoholic malt cordial. Beer: Water, malt, hops, yeast 😁 One of my beers received second place in a home brewers competition in Australia. The winner had a superb beer - clearly blew everyone's else entry out of the water. We later found out that the secret ingredients he used was a hint of vanilla and some dark chocolate (and something else which he wouldn't divulge - I thought it was a spice like nutmeg or cinnamon, who knows. You couldn't really detect these trace additions in the final beer tasting very well, but you knew it was a different type of brew. Apparently if you add too much it ruins the taste. The right amount was just enough to prevent obvious detection in the pallet but have you wondering "what the hell is that after taste? I know this taste and aroma". If the beer in this video has a dominant strawberry, milkshake after taste there may be too much of these adjuncts added in the brew/wort. I have been experimenting with all sorts of ingredients using this minimalist or trace element approach. Most of the time I don't notice any difference and boost the addition amount in the next brewbatch. My friend is using the same approach with spice additions of various sorts, and I am using various fruit/vegetable/grain additions. We regularly communicate our results and share beers and plan to incorporate the best results from the fruit/grain and spice beers to hopefully come up with a nice beer. Cheers🍺

Sounds delicious

Since you have already started using Duotight fittings, check out the keg filler/ flow stopper so you don’t have to watch your keg so closely during filling. I haven’t used it personally but it is on my shortlist of gadgets to buy!

Since you opened the top of your Anvil bucket by removing the bung in order to place your dry hopper why not just dump in the dry hops through that opening? Imo that seems redundant.

What is the ratio of glycol to water did you use, what kind of glycol, and does it have a rust inhibitor? I’m surprised you didn’t submerse the entire chilling coil, is that not required?

High. I just finished watching all your videos. I really enjoy your style of brewing and diy brewery. Keep up the good work and hope you keep at it.

What about ice buildup in the chamber

Wouldn't a small refrigerator be about as effective and offer front access instead of having to lift out of the chest freezer?

Yeah chest freezers are pretty amazing at how low power they are

This is some epic DIY! 🍻 Great stuff

Hey, thanks for the update, I'm in the middle of building my own chiller based on your older video. Just curious why you decided to upgrade the AC unit? Was the older one worn out and how often would you expect to have to replace the AC unit? Cheers

By far my favorite channel. Thank you for great content.

Wicked smart.

Could you explain a little more on how you hooked up the water supply? I just purchased the system but am having trouble figuring out what connectors to get for the actual water supply. Thanks!

I’m going to try this on my keezer!! Cheers

Where did you get this chiller tube with temp probe?

Looking to purchase a unit and this was great information. Thank you!

Nice upgrade! I like the Duotight components. They’ve served me well so far. Cheers 🍻

Very slick set up, thank you!

Where did you get that adapter? The problem im having is I cant seem to find any 4 prong 30a to 20 adapters.

I have all the parts to do my keezer, yours looks great, definitely going to copy a few things!

I just bought a used Kegerator. The pre-existing beer lines were shot and needed to be replaced so I went Duotight! I had a harder time taking the beer lines apart with the pre-existing clamps then using the new fittings. Great decision, Duotight is really easy to use. Great video

Looks great! I really like need to update my Keezer with duotight as well! Cheers 🍻

Nice brew house!

Wish there was a full tutorial on how to convert 120 to 240

Very nice and congrats on the 1k. I always say, buy an Anvil Foundry at 120v and once you can move to 240v, just flip the switch. Love 240v over 120v for speed of heating and the nice boil.

You will really notice the difference between the two systems if you start from heating the strike water together. You leveled the playing field by preheating. Also, you do not want to boil with the top on ,(120v) as the DMSO will not escape. This will lead to an off flavor in your friends beer(Would be interesting video if you compare the two). I found that recirculating the mash water helps to maintain the temp within about 2 degrees on the 240v system. For the boil, I need about 84% power to maintain a rolling boil ( 240v). I mostly use my electric system indoors, so outdoor temp is not a factor for me but surely it impacted you guys on brew day. Thanks for the video!

Hey, just found your channel and really liking it so far. This is not criticism, but a genuine question for you. Do you have any priming or cavitation issues running your pump with the pump head in what is considered “upside down” position? I have the same pump and have it oriented with the valve side pointing up. I almost never need to pull the bleeder pin as gravity pushes all the air up and out of the pump head. Anyway, keep it coming. And thank you for your very “time conscious” videos.

Thanks for doing the homework for me. I just got a new Anvil Foundry 10.5 and have to use 120 for now. Have to wait a month or two for temps to come up a little for fermentation.

Cheers

I've been using an Anvil Foundry for several years. First the 10.5 and now the 6.5. I always throttle down the flow of my recirculation as slow as possible. Using that Anvil supplied hose clamp I crank it down until it looks like the hose is completely pinched closed. The biggest issue and subsequent fix that I've found is that there is an inherent flaw in the design of the machine. Water between the malt pipe and the outer kettle does not get pulled into the recirculation flow. It's basically dead space and that water does not come in contact with the grain. When you lift the malt pipe at the end of the mash it is in effect like dumping a gallon+- of water into your mash. One experiment in which gravity readings were taken at three different places show 11.6 brix (1.0467) taken from the basket... 11.5 brix (1.0463) taken from the end of the recirculation hose... and 0.8 brix (0.0031) taken from between the malt pipe and the kettle wall. The solution is A: lift the malt pipe two to three times during the mash to incorporate that dead water into the rest of the mash or B: eliminate the malt pipe and use a BIAB bag. You could see a 10 point increase in your mash efficiency.

When my Foundry dies, I definitely want to move to a bigger DIY system like this. My highest priority features would be ability to easily clean in place and to do both 5 and 10 gallon batches!

Great video! Thanks for sharing your upgrades. I really like the drain pan and drain line ideas as well.

Awesome ideas! I am stealing them!

I’ve been trying to think of ways to improve my garage brewing space, you’ve given me a few great new ideas - thanks!

Love the hose trick!!! And I need me one of those washing machine mats too!!! Cheers

Great upgrades, love that hose trick! Might have to try something like that

I have the 240v Anvil foundry 10.5g and I agree that the Swirly disappointed me in ability to make a hop cone at end of boil. I never thought to use it for cooling , but I will give it a try next brew. Thanks for that!

Where’d you get the stylish trivets underneath each vessel? Also, do you have a build video up yet for the control panels?

Nice data gathered and presented here. I brew one batch at a time (12 gallons) and ferment in sankey kegs. There’s no beating my upright freezer and inkbird controller. At one point I considered finding a second upright freezer for the flexibility of simultaneous fermentations. Would only consider a glycol setup if I had 3 or more brews going at the same time.