It won't matter until you start the incubation process. Whatever position the egg is in once you start incubation it should remain in that same position. Marking the top with an X can help maintain the same position without rotation so the tortoise can develop properly.

Great in theory but it would be all gone and dirt in a couple weeks if I did that.

You'd get half visual Ivory (which will also be 50% Het for Albino), and the other half 100% Het for Ivory and 50% Het for Albino Here's a link to all the breeding possibilities: azsulcata.com/double-het-sulcata

@@azsulcata thank you so much sir

@@azsulcata can you ship to Indonesia? I want to buy

@@LuckyPratama71 Unfortunately I don't have the licenses to export them, sorry!

@@azsulcata aaah really want yo buy from you so bad 😭. It's ok thank you sir.

Sulcatas all grow at extremely different rates so there's no telling exactly how long a 40 gal tank will work for every circumstance. In general however it will last about 1-3 years depending on its growth rate. Generally once they outgrow a 40 gal tank they are ready to be outdoors.

@@azsulcataThat makes sense based off of average growth rates I’ve seen. Thank you for your timely response! I greatly appreciate it.

It's been working safely for years. Everything was rated weather proof for outdoors and the wattage being run is well under the capacity for each circuit breaker and outlet.

Wall mounted infrared patio heaters. Tons of options, make sure you get one with a timer so you can set it to automatically turn off.

Ya I've seen those. The only issue is that we don't know that morph genes carry over when you cross species and many Leopracatas have proven in the past to be sterile and unable to reproduce. My guess is the genes would become diluted and it wouldn't make any difference since the Leopard species doesn't produce the same morphs as the Sulcatas do. Only time will tell I suppose.

For hatchlings fresh is best because they have a hard time digesting dried foods like hay and it had less nutritional value. Fresh grasses and weeds, mulberry and hibiscus leaves, spring mix lettuce, and Mazuri tortoise diet in that order are excellent options. Here's a link to some care information including diet: azsulcata.com/care

For hatchlings fresh is best because they have a hard time digesting dried foods like hay and it has less nutritional value. Fresh grasses and weeds, mulberry and hibiscus leaves, spring mix lettuce, and Mazuri tortoise diet in that order are excellent options. Here's a link to some care information including diet: azsulcata.com/care

Yes, they stick their heads under to drink. They actually drink through their nostrils. They can hold their breath for a long time. Just make sure the water isn't too deep so that it can't stand up and keep its head out of water when it wants to.

@@azsulcata thank you

There is floating hatchling pellets in there and live lily pads, and live grow area. Duckweed is already on order.

@@azsulcata yes but thought it was pretty minimal. In their native habitat the whole area is covered in plants. U can barely see them then

@@gemertje For hatchlings, in my experience minimal is best for less issues. Better water quality, less chance of consuming something they aren't supposed to, etc. But to each their own.

No they shouldn't be floating.

When you cut the fence panels there are spikes left over that stick in the ground. I've been using this fencing for over a decade now though and have never had them attempt to dig under. If they're digging under then then likely don't have proper temperature controlled housing our their enclosure is too small.

Thank you so much for the reply, love your videos! I'll give it a try.

It doesn't ever snow where I'm at. It can drop below freezing (although rare and only for a day or two) but all my enclosures will heat well enough to handle temps around 20 degrees which just doesn't happen here. I have higher wattage bulbs I can swap out to just in case.

Heavy duty outdoor extension cord and a weatherproof power strip. I only ran 300 watts which is well within what a normal outlet can handle.

@@azsulcata I need to get an outdoor power switch I guess. My sulcata is only a couple months old so I have time

Veggies are best avoided altogether with the exception of some spring mix lettuce which provides a healthy and decent variety. Spinach is best avoided when possible because it can be toxic to them if it's a main part of their diet. Spring mix (without the spinach), grasses, weeds, cactus pads, Mulberry leaves, hibiscus leaves, and Mazuri tortoise diet are all good options.

The argument against humidity is that they can develop respiratory infections in high humidity but that's only the case if temperatures drop too low. Above 80 degrees it's not possible to develop a respiratory infection. The other misinformation used against humidity is that Sulcatas are a Desert species and don't require humidity. That's false and they are actually a grassland species. They hatch underground in the rainy season and humidity levels are quite high. Underground where they spend the vast majority of their time in the wild humidity stays consistently between 60-80%. Humidity has zero negative effects as long as temperature levels are where they are supposed to be and it has numerous benefits including staying hydrated, healthy shell growth and bone development, along with helping them to properly digest their food. Humidity is especially important in captivity as hatchlings since their heat lamps dehydrate them at a much faster rate than what would occur in the wild. I've never seen an unhealthy hatchling that lived in high humid conditions and was soaked daily. Dehydration is by far and away the #1 killer of Sulcatas in captivity. Humidity goes a long way in preventing that.

I don't bury mine at all. They will dig for shelter but not to escape. Generally if they are provided a temperature controlled shelter they won't dig. If your tortoise is trying to dig under the fence you could certainly pound this into the ground to help though.

I don't have any problems with snakes where I live. In their natural habitat though they are known to share burrows with snakes without issue.

You can but it will be harder to maintain humidity levels as it does not hold moisture very well.

With Leopards females are typically larger than the males.

Two visual Ivories will produce 100% visual Ivory offspring.

Check out my enclosure setup video, that should answer your questions!