Reminds me of my Grandma's bread bowl.

Thank you Lisa.

Myriam sent me.

I'm new to your channel and loving it already. I have a branch waiting in my workshop for just this project! Great commentary

Beautiful. If you like to experiment, try the following method of finishing products, which I found on the Internet. Water-based aniline dyes are used. In this technique, the dye is applied with inexpensive sponge brushes and cheap paper towels. The process usually proceeds from the darkest colors to the lightest, creating layers of color. An interesting result is obtained on maple wood. The first layer is black. The paint is applied liberally inside and outside. Then wipe the outside with a paper towel moistened with clean water and dry the product. After this layer is dry, aggressive sanding on the outside with 180 grit sandpaper. A second coat is applied with a sponge brush to the outside of the vessel and wiped off with a wet paper towel. A red for the second color, for example, is used. After the red color has dried, it is semi-aggressively sanded with 320 grit sandpaper. Then a yellow dye is applied as the last layer of color, for example. After the vessel has dried, several layers of polymer coating are applied. *** Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) ***

Eyup Lisa long time no chat. I love the grain patern of ash. You've made a lovely job of enhancing it in this piece. I'm hoping to make my own urn and thinking of using ash. Which is a little ironic as it will be full of ash when in use. Keep up the lovely work Lisa and stay safe. By the way all the others look beautiful too. Good Phil Anderson name drop by the way another lovely person with an amazing talent.

Hi there I made a comment on scrappers catching. Please watch this video ( wood turning avoid those nasty carbide catches ) by thepapa1947 . He explains better than me lol 😆

Hi there love bowl good job . I'm no expert but when using a scrapping tool or carbide on the inside it will catch less if you don't cut higher than centre of bowl . Have a little watch back and your see at some points your cutting about 10mm obove centre. ( outside stay obove centre, inside stay below centre) . I found this out from watching someone explaining it and it really does make a difference.. but Al said you bowl look great 👍

That texture is referred to as orange peel. It is from not applying a wet enough coat and the finish does not flow out. Though there's a fine line between a smooth finish and runs.

Leather dye works good on wood.

Why did you pin the drill chuck to the quill? The proper way to do it is to get a long piece of threaded metal and thread it through the hole in the tail stock and into the tapped thread in the back end of the Morse taper chuck. The end of the chuck is threaded for this reason. Then fasten the end of the long threaded metal rod using a wing nut. This secures the chuck and if something goes wrong it prevents the chuck from coming out of the quill. This way also means that the chuck is not going to destroy the quill or anything else if the chuck starts free spinning. This is slightly hard to explain in words but it’s how I do it.

As always, beautiful work, Lisa. And handsome Bailey, too!

Turned out very nice. Be blessed until the next video

Great nub removal Lisa....I love tge smell of ash when you turn it...

Forgot to add with the airbrush you can shoot fades this can be done by controlling the flow of the medium if you have a two-stage airbrush

Beautiful piece nicely done I like watching your videos. May I make some suggestions, don't send past 320. Sometimes I'll stop at 220. Always wet the Grain and knock it down twice and last but not least get a cheap airbrush Harbor Freight has some and you can buy them online. Also when shooting acrylics I always use a flow control medium this makes it easier to move the paint and control its absorption. And a lot of times will stop the blotching.

Good morning. You do some amazing work. You have way more knowledge than I but because of me being new I’ve made plenty of boo boos. I’ve learned like @johnmitchell1641 said, stepping up in bit sizes help greatly. I’ve also found that when the bits still spin no matter how tight you lock them in, check the Jacobs chuck. I’ve found the three teeth start grinding down and the grip gets lost. It’s marred my bits and won’t hold tight anymore. I’ve had to replace twice already and noticed it each time. I bought a higher quality chuck and it’s lasted much longer.

I would have leaned into the color gradient lines by adding a groove at the line. And, I'd have colored the groove...probably a lightly blue/gray tinted white...or metalic gold or metalic copper even. If you don't like it, ACCENT IT

Hi Lisa, nice pot there. Boring a large diameter hole can be problematic on a lathe, I know cuz I've been there. I start with a smaller bit, 1", then 1 1/2" and so on. There's a lot of friction created with those big boring bits and I find this helps immensely. Best regards. 🙃

New to your channel. Why do some turners beat the crap out of themselves and their tools by turning square stock round instead of knocking off the corners before mounting? Have been doing this over 40 yrs and there is no way my body would still be working well if I did that daily. I did enjoy seeing how you colored your work. Take care of your body- woodworking is harder on the body than people think.

Oh Lisa it's been awhile....stop it with the wood colouring though I must admit the end selection was very nice

Can’t BELIEVE you’re wearing gloves… DANGEROUS!

Beagle Bailey! Beetle Bailey😃❤

I have the Nova post system with the flat rest, and a couple other rests. The flat rest is wonderful for marking, drilling, section work, etc. I have D-way tool rests (non-modular) for my every day rests. Sand the “orange peel” with 800+ grit or 3-M pad.

Lisa. I am so Joy to see you back in the swing again. Lisa how the Should and life in general? How the weather been for you Two? Love the New Tool rest you Added. Please be Safe. Gory of Ohio

Lisa, have you thought about trying Waterlox Truetone? It comes in a bunch of different colors and it not only seals the wood but it tints it as well. And it gives that nice shine that you're looking for. 😊

When you finally break down and buy the Oneway banjo, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Soooo worth the money you'll spend.

Don't worry Bailey, she didn't mean to call you old. We all get old...

Cindy Drozda showed how to use two brushes with the 2 colors to brush on your finish. The brushes allowed blending extremely well.

the color makes it look like glazed pottery... very cool!

Lovely bunch of colored bowls, they look awesome and so does Bailey, thanks! Cheers Al

Came out very nice. Well done!

Nice piece. I use a lot of intrinsic dyes, and it pulls colour as well . The texture from the shellac looks like orange peel.

Thats a gorgeous vase!! I love all the natural coloring, Mother Nature sure knows how to use her paint brush well!❤

lovely Gorgeous work and colors 3 tonne Beautiful . lovely like Blue gray on top and the style been pot cooking been maples syrup

I think it's a good one Lisa. Yeah, transitioning colors is difficult. Keep 'em coming. Take care. -Mike

Once you have coated with lacquer, you are basically doing automotive body work. They get a perfect surface without melting the lacquer by using black, wet-or-dry silicon carbide sandpaper, wet with water. Something like 600 grit should take the orange peel texture down, with minimal lacquer removal.

If you started with a spit coat of sealer first, you might get might get a more even penetration from your color.

I have been experimenting with dyes. It is difficult to get an even color on the wood. I usually finish with shellac.. 4 coats sanded lightly between coats..it works will for me..nice work..

Looking real good Lisa nice job your new post looks like it works good to

Best Wood Tools are high quality. I've been pleased with everything I've gotten from them. Having said that, I'm not a fan of their modular tool rest system (with the exception of the box rest). The reason has nothing to do with quality. Those puppies are well made! Instead, the round bar tool rest cannot be placed as close to the work as can a typical tool rest. That is, taking the 1" round bar rests as an example, the closest you can get to your work is 1/2". (Your tool is supported at the top of the rest, which is at least 1/2" away from the work.) Compare that with, say, a Robust tool rest. You can adjust the rest so the support of your tool is much closer to the work. For most things, Best Wood Tools tool rests work very well. They get your tool close enough to do the job. Where they fail me is doing fine work using a 1/4" skew (or similarly small tools). It's hard to extend such tools very far over the tool rest without getting chatter. That's it. It's my only criticism of Best Wood Tools' modular tool rests. YMMV.

I see what you mean about the lines. Of course your lathe is spinning in a circle. What if when you are ready to apply the color you moved it off center in your chuck just a bit?

Very beautiful Lisa.

I had similar issues and gave up. I've gone to airbrush & stains. Works great ....... after a small learning curve.

I have so much to say that I barely made it to the end before commenting. First, hug that Bailey. Been missing my Kiwi a lot, lately. Nearly two years, also. Second, ahh, that shellac pulling off colour. Once I'm done blending with just water or alcohol I'll spray my finish on, and often get the bumpiness you mentioned with shellac. If I thin it to at least 1lb, or thinner, it works. But, that likes to clog or seize an airbrush, similar to Mixol. I just tried it for the first time, two weeks ago. I'm sure it has some advantages, but it wasn't as airbrush friendly as ColorFX or other liquid pigments I've liked. And a bit of blending can be done after, but I try to get it right with the airbrush, but it's not always perfect. You really had a fight with the hard delineations that showed up. Very nice video and set of colourful pieces, Lisa!

Pigment inks and paints are insoluble, watering it down won't make it absorb into the wood any better, because the particle size of pigment is massive compared to dyes. As such it lays on the surface rather than soak in to any degree,. Which is why any sanding mostly removes the pigment/colour. I've not used spray shellac but I have used automotive lacquers occasionally. Tthe surface texture you mention looks similar to the same effect you get when applying too much lacquer in one go, it looks like 'oarage peel' ie the surface of an orange. With lacquer if it looks wet when applying, chances are you've already applied to much , maybe the same applies to srpay shellac. Super thin wispy coats, touch dry between coats.

Hey Lisa nice work! I’m a turner as well as a painter (oil/acrylic). My advice would be to blend wet into wet. The acrylic dries naturally fast however with as much as you are diluting it the paint should stay wet long enough to blend out the edges. Hope that helps. -Ken

Great video, Lisa. Especially Bailey.

HI BAILEY! Lovely result, despite the battle to get there. I have some dyes to try out when I get some decent ash stock in. Thanks for sharing!

Very nice work. Fighting the finish very intertaining 😊