Logitech G29 Cheap and Simple Brake Mod For Sim Racing - Get Load Cell Firmness and Muscle Memory

[@TEFLONDONTRUMP2024]

I bought a used g920 and the guy before already did this 👌

[@HoloScope]

Nice so lucky!

[@aydog_]

I bought a used g29 too and it came with a £60 TrueBrake Mod

[@paullewis1292]

@@aydog_ how did rage true mod look like?

[@aydog_]

@@paullewis1292 it’s a rebuilt metal component of the internal brake pedal system. It makes your brake change so that they work off the pressure applied to the pedal which gives it a more realistic feel instead of easily being pushed straight down. Probably the only mod worth it for the G29.

[@mateuszpatynko3398]

@@HoloScope q

[@AlexanderBrowne]

Unfortunately, the eraser lasts a couple of months at best before it disintegrates. It is an excellent mod though! I recommend using a synthetic cork from a wine bottle which is a lot more durable.

[@datashade]

This dramatically improved my ability to get into cars and find the limit in Assetto Corsa. Thanks for the tutorial!

[@infoxicated]

What a great how-to video. Well presented, well explained and with zero waffle. I doff my cap.

[@dannyleeracing]

Thanks for teaching me a new word. Doff.

[@vali69]

This is bloody easy holy hell... good to know if I ever buy the g29

[@dannyleeracing]

I've had the G29 pedals apart so much I can practically do it with a spoon. Easy to get into and easy to clean when the potentiometer sensors get dusty.

[@hasinaally5001]

😂😂😂

[@sevraj420]

OK Dio. Thanks for the information

[@johnfitzgerald4456]

Thank you Danny. I took the casters off my "Racing" chair a long time ago. These are a great idea, I didn't know what to search for till now. Thanks again 👍

[@dannyleeracing]

I did the same and resigned myself to having the most annoying non-functional office chair ever. Found out stem castors existed and just facepalmed.

[@johnfitzgerald4456]

@@dannyleeracing I've also had my Logitech pedals apart 3 times, replacing the spring, changing out the rubber bumper. About a year back, while racing in ACC the brake pedal took a lot of force to slow down. My left knee is still not quite right. Cheers

[@v1nny12]

They should call you Seb, you do the driving and the engineering 😂😂

[@dannyleeracing]

Also the sBinnala from time to time

[@v1nny12]

Danny Lee hahaha touchè

[@EthanDean57]

Upgraded from my G29 pedals to Clubsport V1s a few months ago, watched anyway. Cracking stuff. Glad I finished my breakfast before the ending 😂

[@dannyleeracing]

Glad I finished mine, too. Never doing that again.

[@simracingwales4997]

Me too just bought the v3s im about to pour petrol on the logitecs now wile i watch this .... why am i even here hahahaha .

[@frankalarcon635]

@@dannyleeracing What were you thinking!? lol Great mod to keep in mind :)

[@IIViKzYII]

Can you use the g29 wheel and get different pedals for pc?

[@goobytron2888]

I made the rubber insert out of an old flip flop sole it thought it would be too stiff. Perfect! Makes a work of difference!!

[@Miniman-hc8fk]

Really good mod, works a treat, improved my lap times a lot once I got used to the feel 👍🏻

[@dannyleeracing]

Cheers man, good to hear - take that as a taster for brake pedal firmness - when I did this it soon led me down the rabbit hole and into a set of Clubsport V3s. 'Cheap' mod made me spend money...

[@fenegroni]

I liked your video because you are right, the brake pedal in the logitech could do with an even shorter travel and harder to press, with a resulting linear curve in the game. Unfortunately I used an eraser once and it disintegrated after 3 months. I now recommend TPU rubber (which I think is what the original block is made of) because it can withstand the elastic stresses much more. Finally, the reason why you have to adjust the sensitivity is because the G920/G29 has an issue: the wheel base has a built in curve! Which does not suit a fully firmed up short travel brake at all. What you want is a LeoBodnar USB cable, which not only will remove the built in curve built into the wheel base by attaching the pedals directly to your USB bus, but gives you 10 bit resolution, which improves your pedal's precision much further.

[@Brianmw305i]

I don't understand lol

[@grrinc]

I'm probably going to put off my Fanatec purchase until next year, so I'll check this out. Cheers man.

[@avarmauk]

The fanatec is better

[@dannyleeracing]

The Fanatec will knock your socks off coming from a G29, but for sure if there's a time gap between now and then, do everything you can to get that little advantage!

[@burger1113]

@@avarmauk lol it better damn well be better considering the price gap

[@Em-7Add11]

pretty sure this isnt a dealbreaker in not buying the csl elite. the csl elite and the g29 are different kettles of fish. csl is superior and theres no argument to retort.

[@grrinc]

@@Em-7Add11 I said "put off until next year".

[@leentuk6814]

Thanks for this Danny. It works a treat once I got used to it. A lot fewer "what the hell just happened" braking errors in the heat of battle.

[@dannyleeracing]

Cheers mate - if you like how it feels, take a look into the Truebrake which is a really solid and well built module for Logitech pedals, much more permanent solution too. Although I use Fanatec Clubsport V3's now, I was impressed by the Truebrake.

[@thytrin2103]

I found the comedy in this pretty damn good.

[@92trdman]

When I do this type of mod to my DFGT with a soft ball(in door tennis) I can say this mod very effective in all sim

[@TShepard]

Thank god I'm not the only one driving with a DFGT.

[@VossWaterKim]

As I am on a desk setup (no mounting) and a rolling chair, I took off the rubber piece entirely and it's the best decision I made for this wheel

[@ShadowGaro]

Same, I'm still used to my old Driving Force GT, the rubber completely threw me off. Over time I plan to stiffen the springs as I get used to it.

[@dtmjax5612]

Interesting and informative video. Thanks for taking the time to post this. I have the G920, and honestly for my level it still gives me all I need to enjoy my favorite sims. Logitech seems to stay on top of its updates and downloads, and I feel the difference in the pedal feedback depending on the sim, car, track, tire wear, etc. It works for me, but fair to say I would need to try a “better” pedal set for comparison. Still, something to think about perhaps as I move further along in my sim driving experience. Thanks again for the video. 👍

[@GB2G]

do u need updates for it on console?

[@markrobinson2561]

@@GB2G I was thinking the same thing

[@AnnabelleWright]

Great video. Definitely don't skip the part on unscrewing the wire from the opposite shell. I made this mistake and got to redo the process and twist tiny wires back together.

[@FeelTheDrive]

Picking up a G29 soon, most of the people say the brake pedal is too hard but that's potentially from not having any experience in track/race cars. Will definitely keep this mod in mind!

[@dannyleeracing]

Definitely agreed, in comparison to a track/race car the G29 pedal is SOFT. You'll find the same if you're coming from that experience.

[@arcticbulktoaster348]

this was soooo worth it! really does feel like a load cell pedal now! instantly shaved of 2sec/lap and now braking 50 meters deeper! thank you so much!

[@paulswales336]

On my PS4 pro playing GTS, I had an issue with my brakes coming on with no input from me, and I was going to swap the whole wheel/pedal set out; but since this mod the issue has gone. On top of that the brakes have a much better feel and repeatability. Thanks for the tip Danny.

[@vulnerablerummy]

maybe it's your potentiometer getting dirty. my gas pedal did (my brother used quite dirty sandals on the pedal), so i spray contact cleaner on the potentiometers and wait it to dry, it works perfect now.

[@tonyo_zhelev]

Awesome that it works on PS too. i guess I know what I'll be doing tonight

[@andershogqvist]

I made a slight adjustment to this that turned out super great. Instead of having a small peace of eraser together with the original rubber I made a singel "blob" of the eraser about 1,5 the length of the original. I then cut out some corners and drilled some holes, making it sort of a progressive damper. I can really recommend it, the feeling of the pedal is almost as if it has a gas spring!

[@andershogqvist]

This didn't turn out as well as I'd hope. Turns out erasers aren't that durable, after some laps there are only small crumbs of rubber left. Tried wrapping it in duct tape but that didn't work either. Next step for me will be to try making something out of silicone, the kind used in bathrooms etc

[@sneakyman555]

@@andershogqvist silicone is a great idea!

[@andershogqvist]

@@sneakyman555 it's definitely better than eraser, that's for sure. I pressed it into the spring filling it about 60%. If I would do it again however I would do it in smaller increments. After 48 hours it hadn't fully cured, when I pressed it some was squirting out. But the feeling of the pedal is now quite good and I've been using it for some hours now without feeling any decline.

[@Alharmoudi10]

@@andershogqvist any update?

[@andershogqvist]

@@Alharmoudi10Nope 🙂

[@danlightbody5786]

Absolutely awesome mod! Upgraded my set yesterday while I wait for my Truebrake to arrive & it just works! Top job fella 👍

[@dannyleeracing]

Great stuff mate, glad it struck home. Let me know how you find the truebrake - although I only had it for a fleeting time, it was clearly a proper upgrade

[@danlightbody5786]

@@dannyleeracing I'll keep you posted for sure, I actually have 2 G29s, so I will be able to draw a great comparison as I'm planning on putting the truebrake in the other set. Thanks again dude, happy racing!

[@cortezzz2007]

@@danlightbody5786 so how did it end up, do you have any comparison for us? :)

[@ronsmith5572]

Or you could do what I did with both my G27 and my G29 brake pedal and that is . The stock brake spring needs 20 lbs. of pressure to fully compress when full braking . Theirs a couple ways you can increase brake pressure needed for full braking # 1 switch out the stock brake spring with a 25 lb. compression spring or if that still not enough brake pedal resistance, you can also purchase a 45 lb. 1 1/8 in. long compression spring to insert inside a 700 size innertube cut and fold in the rubber tubing ends into the spring take the short spring that is inside the rubber tubing place it inside the stock brake spring of your G27 pedal . You may need to use an extra hand to reassemble the springs into the pedal shock absorber type spring holder or use a tool for leverage such as a small screwdriver to get the hole to line up when putting the hex screws back in . The G27 brake comes come out to 65 lbs. brake pressure for full braking , the G29 with the 45 lb. compression spring with the 20 lb. stock spring and rubber block comes out as around 85 lbs. of brake pressure needed for full braking . I have also had two of the 1 1/8 in. long 45 lb. compression springs inside the stock brake spring of my G27 brake pedal which brought the pedal pressure needed for full braking to 110 lbs. of brake pressure needed for full braking . Notice : I have a cockpit triple screen Racing simulator not a desk and desk chair setup to race with and you will not be racing in your socks like with your stock G27 or G29 / 920 pedals , you will need shoes on when braking with this type of braking setup and a seat that locks in place as well as a pedal hard mount plate for your pedals to be mounted on . Cost of spring was about $12.00 for 2 - 25 lb. and 2 - 45 lb. compression springs combo pack . The two 25 lb. compression springs I have one in my clutch pedal and the other in my throttle pedal for better pedal resistance or modulation of throttle and more resistance of clutch pedal than the stock spring provide .

[@mosasa1307]

you should make a video on this... def would watch this as I am not that savvy when it comes to anything less than a picture guide...

[@brodyhanna7443]

You should make a video but why would u want throttle resistance?

[@ICU2CCTV]

THANK YOU. I did this just yesterday, and I adsolutely Love the change, braking actually works as it should. Switched off ABS after just two laps of the NBR and no probs (well i did hit the barrier once, but even that felt good LOL) Thanks again 👍

[@eje005]

I found that specifically with that brand of eraser, the pedal springs eat the eraser up. The electrical tape only helped briefly as the springs still bit on the tape and pulled it off. The eraser when not chewed up into pieces was often split down the middle from the compression of the pedal in use. I recommend getting some cheap flipflops or other cheap shoe with a softer sole and cutting that up into a rectangle to use instead of the eraser. The cheap sandal sole material is designed to be stepped on, compressed, and dragged on the rough ground and stands up to the wear and tear much better in my experience.

[@dannyleeracing]

You're damn right. I think I'll be revisiting this topic soon as results have varied too much for this to be 'good' advice. The principle is sound but the material not so much, I must have been lucky with mine.

[@eje005]

@@dannyleeracing Can't recomend the cheap flip flops enough. Go fondle up some Walmart sandals and see if they feel right. They even give a pretty good progressive resistance feel that resists more the more you push on them. And they come with plenty of material so you can play with varying sizes and shapes.

[@DonKorny]

Yes I agree. I use the eraser mod since a month. And now it feels like like there is no eraser anymore 😂

[@brendonwildbore]

This was so simple and made a massive difference straight away to my times

[@dannyleeracing]

Awesome, good to hear. If you like that, you might like the Truebrake which is a much more permanent and fixed solution. Got a video on that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYKpmXWcYseDZ68

[@gregpruitt1647]

Several years ago, when I owned a G26, I installed a rubber block in the brake like you did here. The improvement was dramatic!

[@LoneWolf-se1nc]

Logitech never made a g26....

[@RudiOnRails]

Thank you very much, i did this mod about a week ago and it's a night and day difference. Had to move away from chair with wheels due to sliding back but definitely worth it.

[@rafaelborralho1960]

Thanks! Got used to it really fast and I can now brake later and more consistently

[@daliborzak2485]

This is epic and looks like it works. My trail braking feels more natural now. Thanks for saving me some 600 bucks for PRO pedal set.

[@kiuio]

great! i've used and it works flawlessly. now i use a 3d printed brake mod made by 3drap and it is the definitive upgrade

[@diogovilhena2997]

Gotta tell ya, been lookin for some load cell pedals for the past months wondering about what difference would it make to my consistence while driving iRacing, always thought i could manage to get better results and the g29 was keeping me off. On a friday night i was driving and got some bad results, next day I started searching for videos on youtube and I found this one! Did the mod instantly, went on iRacing to practice some laps. Final result? You are awesome, next 3 races finished up in 3rd 3rd and 2nd places driving M4 GT4 this week. This mod is unbelievably effective, recommend to all of you to check this one out and give it a go! Thumbs up bro!! Great content and easy as pie to make it happen.

[@dannyleeracing]

Awesome man, glad to hear you took to the new pedal inputs well - just bear in mind as others have commented it might not be the most durable mod ever (some people have wildly varying lifespans of the block they put in when they use erasers like mine was) but now you know that there's a lot of untapped life in the brake pedal. I have a video on the AXC Sim Truebrake which I was impressed with, go check that out if you want a more permanent and well made solution!

[@diogovilhena2997]

@@dannyleeracing Thanks for your feedback, I think I'm gonna stick to the rubber for a while until I notice it's gone. To be honest I have plenty of rubber left haha. Will definitely check these one out if I feel the need. Keep up the great videos!

[@TheVRRacer]

Still relevant today. Just made this mod on my g29 ive had years.....and knocked a second off my times after a few laps. Way more trail-breaking control. so so glad i found this. Thanks for a very clear and concise video. Not all heroes wear capes!

[@dannyleeracing]

Excellent! Thanks for leaving your feedback - just did a review on the Truebrake which is the logical next step once this mod wears out, works like an absolute beast

[@griggrog1385]

I tried this method with the exact same eraser and followed the instructions to the letter and I would strongly not recommend this method at least for me. It worked well for about an hour of hard racing but the rubber disintegrated completely and it was a royal pain to clean out. I would recommend people get the TrueBrake V2.2 from AXC Sim. Great bit of kit that improves brake feel substantially and is much cheaper than getting a brand new pedal set. works with console and PC too. It would last much longer and be consistent. Consistency is important for racing after all. I'm not saying this video is bad, its actually very informative on bad the stock brake is with the Logitech pedal set.

[@zretil]

4:30 That was some top notch editing there 😁

[@oliverwill0065]

Holly wood movie quality

[@sonyviva308]

Oscar nominee

[@MrCudou]

2:53 "Flip the carpet gripper down to access these screws" *Me after owning these pedals for over a year:* "The fucking WHAT?"

[@dannyleeracing]

Haha! *Mind explodes*

[@jonaskastrickas1218]

I almost cried hearing that too, i tried so many ways to make the pedals not slide on my carpet and none of them worked alright until i changed my setup for it to sit next to a wall 🙃

[@stephenhailes907]

This is so simple and it really works. Only done about 25 laps since the mod but I am already used to it and the difference is amazing, I can actually break mid corner now. Thanks you.

[@dannyleeracing]

Thanks man, glad you've found it helpful - if nothing else this is a cheap as chips way to see for yourself how much brake feel matters. Consider a Truebrake or something like that if you want a true permanent conversion

[@wake2skate1]

Works fabulously, setting personal bests after a short re training period. I also modded the gas pedal after seeing another video and since I don’t use the clutch swapping the spring out of it with the spring from the gas pedal. The 2 combined make a world of difference. I recommend them both! Thanks

[@dannyleeracing]

That's great mate, really glad to hear. For a while I was wondering if it was just me that thought this worked! Pedals make a big difference to outright pace, it's true what they say, but in terms of laptime per penny spent and risk taken, this mod has to be step 1!

[@wake2skate1]

@@dannyleeracing I am wondering if after a few days of hard use you noticed a loss of firmness at the top of the pedal. I cut my eraser piece about half the size of the Logitech. I had 1/4”-1/2” pre load initially and now about 1”. I will either find a suitable substitute as a single piece and or double up the add in section Using another wrap or two of tape

[@CHROME-COLOSSUS]

Great suggestion, superb description, and super-appreciated video all-around! My G29 arrives tomorrow and I’m tempted to modify it before ever even using stock. 😆

[@dannyleeracing]

Thanks for your comments, so grateful - if I were you I'd run it as it comes for a while, then upgrade if it doesn't quite cut it! What game do you mostly play?

[@f.batiss]

Fun fact: This will not let you press the brake pedal far in so you cant loose control if you have ABS off

[@joe-wr2jh]

you don’t want to loose control with the break? i’m assuming you want to drift use the hand break or clutch to loose traction but i’m not a master by all means so correct me if i’m wrong

[@ghostcustoms3968]

@@joe-wr2jh not everything is drifting bud

[@Josh28574]

@@ghostcustoms3968 he might only want to drift

[@GB2G]

@@ghostcustoms3968 everything is drifting

[@scottwoodtraining]

Just getting used to my first wheel and pedals(g29), and I can totally see me wanting to add this in soon, thank you!

[@LFLoTiTo]

This is great!!! When I got the G29 I felt the same need (pressure modulation), since the brake was registering 100% very early on the original rubber compression. But all mods I found online were for making it easier to achieve 100% (removing the rubber), which is exactely the opposite. Too bad your video was not published yet! I ended up modding the brake potentiometer (by sanding its gear to rotate it and push its start/end position reading) so that I need to compress more of the black rubber to achieve nearly full brake (it doesnt get to 100% now, similar to yours). I am very happy with the result, although your solution probably offers a more progressive modulation and is easier to mod. How is the new rubber holding its elasticity? That was my main concern of adding another material, because I didn't want to replace it frequently. Regarding the wheeled chair, I use a cord tied to my robust table with a carabine (climbers hook) that I clip on my chair base only when I race, and this is very effective to prevent it from going back during strong braking.

[@dannyleeracing]

The new rubber holds it's firmness fairly well, in my experience the G29's standard block definitely softens over time. Even so, I think the wrapping of insulation tape gives the whole idea a lot more durability so maybe it's all down to that. As for the chair, I know someone doing exactly the same as you - definitely takes a bit of ingenuity to race on office chairs.

[@v1nny12]

LFLoTiTo I just put a block of wood behind my chair 😂 and yes my toes have been stubbed profusely

[@erdinccelenli8993]

​@@dannyleeracing10:39

[@Xeathy]

So I did this today and it’s been a game changer! Immediately I’m more consistent with lap times and they’re all within 3-4 tenths of each other, as a comparison without the rubber my lap times varied by almost a second

[@dannyleeracing]

Excellent! That's how you know you'll benefit from a permanent mod at some stage. Truebrake is excellent: kzbin.info/www/bejne/naTcoKaLmbyYis0si=EPLo85KA4pPQeNTC

[@e-brake6521]

Had g29 for years. Now its the time to try the fanatec. Great video!

[@grahamkelly8662]

I’ve recently bought g29. Is there much or any difference between g29 and Fanatic wheel? I like the look of formula 1 style wheel but apart from looking different, I don’t know if there’s a performance advantage in Fanatic or it’s just more expensive? Higher quality?

[@sirpuntalot1282]

@@grahamkelly8662 The force feedback is a lot different on fanatec. Stronger and more precise imho. Cannot judge the F1 wheel feeling as i do not have it.

[@grahamkelly8662]

@@sirpuntalot1282 oh, thanks for reply. Wish I could try before I buy. I really don’t like the Aggressive force feedback on g29. I have most settings low like 30-40 % and sometimes in rally game, I do a jump and turn left but as I land ? Force feedback forces wheel right and I sometimes crash. Even driving over a bump in road, can force wheel in opposite direction. I just can’t understand how any1 can control car property with high force feedback. I like my wheel but it’s annoying. For instance, I started playing dirt rally. Had to turn force feedback down and mess with other settings, just to be able to control car half decent but it was too twitchy on wheel. The first resetting in force feedback is something like where it forces the wheel to centre, after turning. It was on 15 and It really never did anything. I change it to 30 and it’s better and worse. It’s better because now the wheel isn’t so stiff, I can stay on track much easier but now like I said before, the force feedback often spin wheel out of control. Hmmmm,

[@Chris.Davies]

I've got a custom rubber block in my G25 pedal set. It works perfectly!

[@RexJava75]

So while this is of course a great idea to mod your pedals with, using tape to hold the bumper together is going to be a problem in itself. However one can go to their local hardware store and get a rubber cork or the like and cut it down to size, that way its all one piece and there's no tape to cause problems.

[@captaincronked7895]

Or just cut an entirely new one out of the eraser, just makes more sense to me

[@dejavuking]

Hey, from my experience using the G29 for a few years the brake pedal is already extremely hard, and only has very limited travel. You cannot depress it very far at all. So doing this would make the brake pedal actually really very unrealistic and impossible to get any kind of feeling from the pedal. FYI racing drivers use 100% braking force initially and then slowly bleed off the brake pedal no I repeat no racing driver hits the brake pedal and uses only 60% of potential braking force!!!. They hit the brakes as hard as they physically can and as I've said slowly bleed of them the closer they get to the corner!!. If your thinking of doing this brake mod you'd be better replacing the black rubber stopper that comes with the pedels with the eraser to give more brake pedal travel!.

[@kookiez4571]

Even tho I done this before watching the video, this tip mod video is on point 100% great work keep it up

[@427m84]

Ive been using the clutch pedal ad my brake cause i only drive cars with no clutch and the brake pedal was very bad, but now i realized how important brakes are. Thanks a lot!

[@steveburns836]

Just completed this mod and it works a treat

[@scooz14]

Use bump rubbers out of shock absorbers. You can get them in multiple rates.

[@Uncle-Mike]

I clicked on this video because you are awesome! .... and also because I want to upgrade my G29 😊 Great video!

[@bReAtHgg]

Hey man, i did this mod last weekend. Night and day. Love it. Can recomment it to everybody!

[@bReAtHgg]

Hey man, i can no longer recomment this. After 3-5 Days of using this mod (which worked perfectly until this point), the eraser completly desolved :D Just a cream of white rubber was left. I think i will find another solution :)

[@LeviewFPV]

My god! what a change mate! I adapted instantly and I have more control than ever... thank you ! a like a subscribe Danny!

[@dannyleeracing]

Thanks very much! Just be aware that the eraser might not last VERY long, seems a lot of people have had varying results with that. But if nothing else it demonstrates how much the brake pedal can change your driving!

[@LeviewFPV]

@@dannyleeracing its because they use sh*tty erasers, I only use Staedler for my brakes 😂 It’s a great initial hack, I’ll probably upgrade to something better very soon.

[@ktjohnsey4659]

Thank you! Amazing! So glad you have put this on here! But please use a fork to mash your dogs food up in future vids

[@dannyleeracing]

I use a screwdriver now. Slowly we integrate.

[@Nix-i5r]

Have now been driving the G920 for over 3000 hours of ACC play with no signs of wear. I just installed an Open Wheel Mod. Yes, the gear technology is relatively noisy, but there is a simple solution to make it almost completely silent. If you have some manual skills, you can do the conversion for 1€ in just under half an hour (Warning!!! Warranty expires) Unscrew the steering wheel, remove both motors and you get to the gear rail. Degrease cleanly and stick a thin layer of felt (similar to chair gliders) to the bottom of the running surface. Then grease everything well (including the felt layer), assemble everything and almost not hear it anymore. Quieter than the rumble effect of a controller. Because it is not the gears that make the noise, but the play of the rack on the sliding surface. Works for me now more than 2000 hours without problems. Even in continuous use of uninterrupted 12 hours. Can of course also be used on the G29... To do this, of course, remove the rubber stopper in the brake and if you want it to be even more realistic, close the air outlet hole in the lower sleeve with a screw and hot glue. Insert a thin round rubber seal into the milling of this sleeve and grease it well. Put everything back together and you will be amazed. Due to this conversion, the air in the sleeve cannot escape and the harder the pedal is pressed, the more it is compressed. It's not rocket science and both conversions present you with a better driving experience👋

[@dannyleeracing]

This might well warrant an investigation........

[@paulhope3401]

I did a quick brake pedal mod to my g25. Wrapped a bathroom sponge round the brake pedal shaft secured by tiewraps and just added a few more (6-8)) tiewraps and tightened them more until I reached my desired level of travel, stiffness and feel. Then calibrated the pedal to suit. Advantages are its easy to adjust without having to dissemble the pedals loads of times until you get it right. Disadvantage - looks very DIY but if that bothers you wrap it with some black electrical tape and you wont notice it. Quick and easy to do with a good feel. Huge difference to braking in sim racing.

[@alexthompson8307]

I’m just getting back into sim racing with, yes the official Microsoft forcefeedback steering wheel. I’m looking maybe jumping straight to the fanatec csl. Great to see videos like this👍

[@dannyleeracing]

Oh my god, I remember that wheel. It's a FOSSIL, upgrade to a CSL Elite, you'll absolutely be blown away! Cheers for commenting. I'm definitely interested in hearing how you reintegrate into society!!

[@nickdeval905]

This made me a more consistent driver thanks

[@jasonlanglois7906]

Done. Good mod. Feels way better. Just tune the software to get the pressure point your looking for (post mod). Thanks man. I'm looking to upgrade, but this mod got me to put my Visa back in the wallet for a little bit longer 😅

[@dannyleeracing]

Exactly, I'm the sort of person that resists upgrading. It's why it took me 10 years to upgrade from Logitech wheels. If there's something that can be done to improve things for cheap, I'll always give it a bash but in the end I'm aware that it can only go so far.

[@GrotrianSeiler]

Excellent suggestion. I will give it a try. Thanks!

[@filippo4298]

congratulations for the socks and shoes :D

[@Hotdogskin]

Thank you so much, this is considerably better than out of the box breaking pedel

[@rubencarver3758]

Did it and I am so happy I found this video. Thank you :)

[@dannyleeracing]

Awesome man, thanks for watching and letting me know. As others have said, you might find it doesn't last forever, but you at least have sampled the kind of pressure/action for next to nothing. For something much more permanent I've tried the Truebrake and was really impressed with it, if you find your DIY block has crumbled it's worth a look. Got a video on Truebrake posted back in december.

[@rubencarver3758]

@@dannyleeracing I simply used and old rubber, as you did, working great and having fun with it now. Not too bad to get used to and seeing an immediate affect so thank you again. I'll keep that in mind!

[@anthonyboulus9042]

This actually works . Cheers mate

[@3DKiwi]

I replaced the brake spring in mine with one of the stiffer spring upgrade kits available. That plus the Leo Bodnar USB adaptor and calibration utility. That allows you to have a linear loading rather than the wacky exponential default loading of the pedals plugged into the wheel.

[@anthonywhite7873]

What was the name of the upgrade?

[@NathanJohnsonNaterspotaters]

What do you mean by the "calibration utility"?

[@GudShiz]

Getting my G29 this weekend and was worried about the pedals! I love this is a quick and easy way to do it! But the doggo is why i hit the sub button tho! JK! Love the content, clarity and what you said about simracing at the end :)

[@gamer-jm6my]

I want to get it because iv been really getting into gt sport and from what I can tell a wheel and pedal setup is better than a controller. People in videos say this is the best beginner wheel. How was your experience with it I play playstation so I know not all wheels are compatible.

[@GudShiz]

@@gamer-jm6my I got it last week because of some delays and omg it is such a night and day difference from controllers man! Let me preface this by saying I am slower on the wheel (so far) than I am on my controller, but I can see how I can improve and how I am getting used to the wheel. But the immersion is awesome! I honestly don't find the pedals too bad either! I would say if you are able to, go for it! It's a MASSIVE upgrade from a controller and the fact that it's a beginner wheel means you are pretty much set to use it as plug and play!

[@gamer-jm6my]

@@GudShiz thanks and yes being slower on wheel at first seems a given but yea I just wanted someone else's opinion on it. The main reason Iv hesitated so far is because I hear the break pedal is finicky but your like me you had a controller first. So I was interested on what your opinion waa.

[@GudShiz]

@@gamer-jm6my It takes getting used to on the pedal for sure but honestly doesn't bother me as much as I thought it would when i heard the reviews. I think most people that notice the pedal issue are people coming up from a wheel so their point of reference is different to someone like me that came from controller :) Happy driving man!

[@gamer-jm6my]

@@GudShiz thanks and your probably right the people reviewing come from wheels so they compare it. But people like us come from controller so we won't minded the sort of thing. Thanks have a nice day!

[@mikefromwa]

I know I'm 3 years late to the party, but I just bought a refurbished g923 set and I'm expecting to do this to the pedals as soon as I get them. Thanks for the walkthrough, this is good stuff!

[@Don_Dotta2786]

I would reccomend to lower the max breaking Power in-game and 100% in ghub. Now you can break full power on the pedal and dont slip. Around 86/91 is good for breakpower

[@robertboyd321]

Excellent, works like a bought one. Also if U don't want to wrap the brake block extension in insulation tape you can just use one drop of Super glue. when super gluing Rubber to rubber it works perfectly, U should try it

[@Werewulf150]

I might have to try this, I just got into sim racing last year and got a G29. Ultimately I’m looking to switch to Fanatec but this should do for now

[@MarkNOTW]

Great video and very nice presentation!

[@Barry1337G]

Basically you are increasing the force to hit 60% breaking pressure more “consistent “. In my opinion that’s all placebo. Give me one valid point not to have the brakes at 100% for the first meters. every hairpin or corner where you have decelerate a lot you have to be at 100% brake. It’s common to shift the break biast forward to have even more breaking effect.

[@video_gabes]

Do you even play sim racing? Smashing the brakes locks up your front tyres. It also allows for better control when trail braking

[@wiesaw9826]

@@video_gabes smashing the brakes at 100% does not cause look up in the first stage of the braking at high speeds. That's why I'm not understanding how not applying full force is efficient. You need to break earlier and therefore you lose time.

[@MecaGTAPassion]

It's hilarious cause there are two exact videos about this mod This one which gets the pedal feel closer to a load cell and people are happy and another guy that removes the rubber piece and people are happy again lmao Guess it depends of preferences!

[@matjazpovalej4146]

same here

[@ericsartanahorner]

Yeah I made small cuts in my stock piece, made it into a spring shape. Works awesome.

[@simond5583]

Wait!....... Don't open the pedalset this way. It is much better to support it upside down at either end, take out all bottom screws and lift off the base plate. All of the wiring stays in place so it's much safer. You can then lift out each pedal individually to adjust them. There's a video on YT that shows this as well. Regarding the mod, I've got a gteye brake spring and also packed some memory foam into the spring. This gives it the last bit of pressure and dampening at the end of travel that makes it feel better.

[@simond5583]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/boO0doCig66Ba68 Make sure it is resting on upper case and not the pedals themselves!

[@divejumpshooter6947]

Great video nicely done. I have the Fanatec pedals etc and I was skeptical of the load cell thing but it does work and makes a huge difference.

[@dutchmeikuh8822]

Thanks, I'm racing in RaceRoom and focussing on Leaderboard challenges. This is gonna help me to get higher on the boards :) *Edit : I had read the other comments.. Not using an eraser but a piece of the gardenhose. Thnx anyway

[@chriscangelosi9438]

Great video, Subscribed!

[@rtimmins7212]

I fiddled with DIY g29 break mods a little bit. The best thing I found was moving the Clutch spring to the break pedel and keep the black rubber block in the break pedel. It now has no dead zone , less travel and works with pressure instead of distance. Give it a try

[@xxxleamgxxx9656]

Still not correct, since it's not the way the wheel is designed

[@Danny-ur4bf]

@@xxxleamgxxx9656 huh? This is a video about Moding lol

[@scooz14]

The problem is that the factory brake pedal sensor is a potentiometer, so the software is applying the brakes based on how far the pedal moves not how hard you press it. If you have decreased the amount the pedal will travel you have decreased the amount of braking the game will see. You can reconfigure your game to work with less pedal travel but you will start to turn the brake into an on off switch

[@rtimmins7212]

After I switched spring I still get full break travel. The difference is that the brake starts to work as soon as I press. Originally there was travel before the brake started to work. The brake is still gradual but it is more sensitive now. I find it easier to judge break times. My lap times have actually decreased since I swapped springs If tried a few different methods and to me this proves to be the best option until I eventually upgrade.

[@teamxif1gaming335]

@@rtimmins7212 Here we all are trying various mods and things to REDUCE our lap times and then you come along, a racer that is happy with an INCREASED lap time... 🤔

[@Leroyjenkinsjnr]

Hey Danny, can i calibrate the pedals on an ipad? I dont have a pc. Also do I have to connect the pedals to the ipad?? Great video! Liked and subscribed

[@dannyleeracing]

I'm afraid that calibration is likely only really a PC thing, I don't believe the pedals 'store' the calibration. What game are you using these with?

[@Leroyjenkinsjnr]

@@dannyleeracing GT7 Danny. On controller at the moment. Just ordered a G29 and a rig so I have a bit of a transition coming 🤓

[@dannyleeracing]

In which case, use the pedals as they are first of all, don't go modding them out the box - you might really enjoy them as they are, and GT7 probably isn't AS sensitive to braking accuracy (just guessing, never tried GT7 despite being a MASSIVE GT1 and GT2 fan)

[@Leroyjenkinsjnr]

@@dannyleeracing so do you not do coaching on GT7 ?

[@dannyleeracing]

@@Leroyjenkinsjnr unfortunately not, though I'd love to dip back into GT in the future as it's been a long, LONG time

[@SuperEvenSteven]

I tried this with the same Staedler eraser used in this video but in less than a week it disintegrated and crumbled inside. It made a real mess inside so I wouldn't recommend using an eraser. I substituted the crumbled eraser for a chunk of rubber out of an old pair of runners shoes.

[@NomadUniverse]

Guessing the G29 has changed since this video, I got one about 6 months ago and the brake pedal is very firm and I do have to push it very hard to max it out. If I recall there was also a small box of springs and rubbers that came with it. I'll also add those stadeler erasers become hard and brittle over time, so keep an eye on that.

[@cliphpang7791]

Funny, I’ve also experimented with the brake and after a couple less good ideas I settled for exactly this.

[@asdgeorge7]

You need the opposite force on brake for consistency. So this mod here is very usefull . Mine pedals doesnt have the black rubber , they have a white cup . I take out this and put eraser like on this video . Now i have a progressive opposite force when i braking , and i simply race better with every car . Old racing cars and new with abs .

[@rebeccaschade3987]

I just tried this in my G27. It had no rubber resistance piece at all, so I tried with double height eraser. That seemed a bit too much to me, so I cut off about 40% of one eraser and this allows for a soft initial travel and then very firm resistance after the first half inch or so. Feels much more natural compared to stock configuration. The other pedals are too soft for my liking though, so I may well get a set of firmer springs.

[@soiled]

great video... I don't own this pedal but this tutorial was great... I've been using a Logitech Momo wheel for about 15 years and the thing is amazing, I've never ever thought to pull it apart to see how it ticks, might be worth a look, but I doubt it's this advanced, it's so old it's probably pretty basic when it come to the guts.

[@dannyleeracing]

Oh my god.....I used to have a Logitech Momo wheel.....it's all flooding back!!!

[@garybloxsom7538]

@@dannyleeracing i still have the momo force(red one) leather wheel .loved it.

[@GoingTrackSideinAlberta]

Actually I Highly recommend The Ricmotech LC27-3 Load cell conversion Upgrade kit for Logitech G Series Pedals game changer for entry level G series Pedals works on the G923 as well V3 only

[@NaviYT]

Great video loved the way you did the intro because you were right I did hear people talking about this haha

[@captainflatspot]

Best food channel on youtube 😂👍

[@cussco]

Also put pedal upside down on top of a box so pedals are in the box. Then undo all the screws including pedal mounts and lift the bottom off with the rest in the box. Really easy.

[@daztheman888]

just done it thanks for the video hope i improve a little from it :)

[@jarrodclyne707]

I think I must have had the worlds stiffest G920 rubber stopper. I did this 'eraser mod' but could barely get to 20% braking using maximum leg strength. I tried drilling the rubber stopper and a few other adjustments, ultimately I went with sponge and a small bit of eraser at the bottom. That gave me the 60 - 70% sweet spot. It works well.

[@carcrobatics]

That little rubber stopper is just horrible in my opinion. Mine does not seem to compress any more than 5-10% and was infuriating to deal with on its own.

[@osrmxmaster1422]

go to gym your legs are a bit weak I think

[@AccountIGuess]

Here’s if you need a softer brake if you buy the G920 uncover the bottom and then open the brake there should be a rubber square what we call rubber of hell then put it back together be gentle with the wires there very brittle

[@Facewest]

I did this a couple of years ago using flip flop saddle foam and cutting it custom, I also did my clutch pedal with a less dense foam it is bad ass now!

[@dannyleeracing]

But what if you go to the beach and a crab nips the bottom of your foot now? Didn't think it through, did ya...

[@mihaidima2005]

What about setting the deadzone for the full low resistance zone, so that you brake by resistance, not travel?

[@dannyleeracing]

G29 pedals can't measure force, only travel. Only load cells are able to measure force which is why they're lauded as the solution, which they are - but making the G29 work at a more targeted range is the key which we try to achieve here.

[@josedavidcastilloblanco2437]

@@dannyleeracing Does the G920 pedals measure force? I saw that when I push them they don't move and the car brakes more if I put more force.

[@donaldlong3996]

I tried this and it was indeed great and easy to do BUT after a few months I had a look inside and found to my horror that the eraser had disintegrated into a pile of dust, covering everything inside. Be warned!

[@henryparker5530]

The wheel will kind of work, if you just hook up the steering wheel, the steering works the gas works, but the brake does not work using brake pedal, all the other buttons work properly.

[@fillman86]

Hmmm odd, my used one might have this... I had to put my entire body into it to get full force on my g920

[@silas.anderson]

that's seems like a usual thing, this was the same for me before i removed the block entirely.

[@conorcampbell2109]

@@silas.anderson I did the same. I think I might just get the block and cut it in half so I still have a bit resistance