[MTB maintenance] Fox Float Shocks Oil Leak Fix - Part1 (Full rebuild for home mechanics)

How to fix oil leak from around the rebound dial.
This fix is applicable to Fox Float RPL/RP2/RP3/RP23.
[Correction]
The word "seams" used in caption should read "shims". I thank Scot for pointing out this typo.

[@knightsportsfc3s]

Impeccable details and camera work. Watched on 1.5x and still easily able to get a grip of the service.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Awesome to hear that. I really appreciate your feedback. Thank you for watching!

[@alejandroosuna-ponce8096]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH, I HAD A LONG TIME LOOKING FOR A TUTORIAL OF THE RP23, I BELIEVE I HAVE ABOUT 6 DAMAGED, I WILL WORK ON THEIR REPAIR, THANK YOU.CONGRATULATIONS FOR YOUR WORK.

[@MindDesignFactory]

I'm more than glad to know that you found my video useful. Thank you for watching!

[@jeffwbuckley]

These vids were amazing!! Should be considered a full rebuild vid! I think, if you labeled it that way, it’d get way more views. Took forever to find these vids. But, I’m not doing mine for an oil leak. Doing it cause the CTD/Lockout wasn’t working. This is enough info to get me by. Thanks.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, you really hit the nail on the head :) I will add a line saying "a full rebuild of Fox Float shocks for home mechanics" or something like that in the title. KZbin search might pick up my video when someone look for full rebuild instruction, I hope. Thanks for watching!

[@nwahs]

Phenomenal video. Meticulously done. I DIY most everything I can, however you've convinced me to pay Fox to rebuild mine. Thanks and Subscribed!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Thanks a lot for watching and subscribing to my channel! I'm flattered, indeed. When you let Fox rebuild your shock, your money is best spent, I think. They do their job, needless to say, with impeccable finesse and care using their latest, improved and revised parts, if any. We, home mechanics, could never be on a par with them. Thanks again :)

[@CinquanteEuros]

Fantastic resource. What are the dimensions of the o-ring in the shaft mentioned at 28’55" ? My shock leaks oil like crazy off the knob, I’d rather replace both…

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, this o-ring is a hard-to-find one. The size is 0.050" C.S. x 0.154" ID, so the cross section is 1.27mm and the inner diameter is 3.91mm. Maybe you can order this as a Fox spare part from your local bike shop. Or you can buy a full damper rebuild kit which contains every seal and o-ring you need (not the air seal rebuild kit). In most cases of oil leak at the rebound dial, you don't need to replace this o-ring though. Thanks for watching!

[@bassbeetz]

Hello Mr. Mind Design... Loving the videos. Is it possible the O-Ring was damaged due to applying too much heat to the loctite area? I rebuilt an ancient and rare Noleen without instructions and had a similar issue. Also, Do you suggest Viton O-Rings? I found that it's better to use O-rings from an actual kit , or "high-spec"o-rings rather than relying on random O-rings from a hardware store or even amazon. Just a thought. Great Video. Wish I had that for the Noleen NR-4!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, I got a similar comment before about the melted o-ring. Sure it's possible to damage the o-ring if you heat the shaft way too long. You need to heat the shaft up for 5~10 seconds to break the loctite. And to melt that tiny o-ring you need much longer time. Regarding the o-ring specs, you can use Viton o-rings (or more generally FKM) if you want. But I think it's just overkill function-/cost-wise. On air shocks for MTB (not like motorbikes or cars), NBR D70 will do fine in most cases especially when you can service them by yourself periodically. Cheers:)

[@insightbike]

excellent video. My video on this shock won't be nearly as perfect but I think it's handy that you could use a much less expensive vice adapter to pull off the eyelet. The amount of red loctite used on these threads is ridiculous. Nice work. ABM

[@MindDesignFactory]

Yeah, the red Loctite there is insane. The hardest part of the whole disassembly process is to break the brutal bond of Loctite to take off the upper eyelet part. Thanks for watching :)

[@JulianoGSF]

Nicely done

[@MindDesignFactory]

Thank you!

[@teddy4285]

Hey excellent video very high quality, I have a fox float rpl that had the same problem. When I got to removing the spacer and shims, there wasn’t a nut on it and there doesn’t seem to be anyway to remove them. Have you tried on a rpl? Thanks

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, I have done the fix on my RPL many years ago. Can't remember exactly, but on RPL I think that the piston head with a blue flat seal (that I hold in my left hand in this video at time code 17:15) is screwed directly into the shaft. I took off the blue seal (in order not to damage it), clamped it with a vice using hard rubber plates as protection and turn the upper eyelet part using the pipe that I use in the video. Hope this helps.

[@teddy4285]

@@MindDesignFactory thanks a lot I managed to unscrew it, hopefully my repair goes well, thank for the video.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Great to hear that. I'm sure you can make it through. Thanks for your reply!

[@markheckendorn4224]

Hello, Thanks for the video. Great tutorial. I do have a question, though. Around 26:30, you pull out the inner control rod. It has that little ball bearing in it. I was doing the same thing, but after pulling out that same rod, i saw the BB, but there was also a small thin metal washer that fell out afterwards. I didn't get the chance to see exactly where is came from. The BB doesn't seem to fit through it. Maybe it sits on the end of that same inner rod? Have you seen those small washer by chance? Know where it goes. Thanks

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, I think that the tiny washer is probably one of those washers on the propedal needle (see the video section below): kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaqWgoR5rraKrcU The washer was probably stuck on the lower end of the control rod.

[@markheckendorn4224]

@@MindDesignFactory Thanks for the reply. It is too small to be in within all the washers/shims. It would just fall through them all. From where you stopped the video, I guess it could be under the pin looking piece between there and the spring. I looked a few times, but I didn't see it, though. It doesn't make sense that it would be behind all the washers, the last one, so to speak. I put all those aside, and that washer fell out after I pulled the inner control rod out. I noticed the little ball bearing on the end of the inner rod. then looked at the remaining top cap, and it slipped out from there. But I never saw it sitting somewhere. I just fell out all of a sudden. That is what made me think it was on the side where that little ball bearing was. What do you think? And thank you for taking the time to help me out.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Maybe you accidentally dropped the tiny washer between the piston shaft and the rebound adjuster rod when you pulled out the propedal needle. Magnify the propedal needle that I hold with my right hand in the following video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5qwk6SffJ2Woac You can see that the needle has the tiny washers and spring. Isn't it this tiny washer you are talking about?

[@markheckendorn4224]

@@MindDesignFactory Maybe you can see it. But my old eye don’t quite see it, haha. There does appear to be a raised area under the head of the needle. It makes sense and fits there well, so I’ll go with that. Thank you so much for the tips and making this video. Take care,

[@MindDesignFactory]

Now you have figured it out, sort of. I should have showed the propedal needle more closely in the video. Cheers :)

[@jerryx2000]

I bet if a shop does this it is more costly than buying a new shock ;-) BTW are you happy with the shock? What trail & jumps do you use it for?

[@MindDesignFactory]

Well, doing this fix is a time-consuming and care-demanding piece of work, so it's quite understandable if a repair shop would require a high price for that. Am I happy with the shock? The shock in this video is actually for my wife's bike and, yeah, she is happy (I suppose...). I've got fox RPL, RP2, RP23, and RP23 boost valve, and use them for xc/marathon-like rides and riding in local mountains. Not that tuff trails nor jumps.

[@ronaldcardenas2199]

L lol

[@shwing0247]

@MindDesignFactory I have a RP2 that is leaking air from the propedal lever. I just replace the air can seals and that didn't help. As soon as I pump air in, it leaks from the lever. Does this sound like the same o-ring that you replaced in the video is also bad in my RP2 shock?

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, are you sure that air leaks at or around the propedal lever, not from the Schrader valve? And if it really does leak at the propedal lever, has your RP2 ever gone through full rebuild? If your RP2 is a second hand and it has been fully rebuilt by the former owner, then the main shaft might not be fully tightened into the upper eyelet or just tightened without red Loctite. Or there might be any crack around the threads of the upper eyelet part where the main shaft is threaded into. It is unlikely that the o-ring you mention has something to do with this air leak. Unfortunately, it is very hard to spot the cause of this kind of air leak without actually seeing the shock in problem. But I recommend that you first look into the part where the main shaft and the upper eyelet part are connected as I said above.

[@deanodxb]

When you pulled out the blowtorch I realised it was time to buy a new shock. 😂

[@MindDesignFactory]

So, how do you usually break the bond of Loctite? An easy and cheap way to do it without slightest damage to the shock rod?

[@danieldejo2513]

Could you please post the link where to get the removal tool for DU bushing? Is it a 12mm bushing for RP23? Thank you!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Fox original tool is "DU Removal tool" (PN: 803-00-046-A). So search for it on the net. If you don't bother with a third party product, then just search for "DU bushing removal tool". There are now many different types available, so choose one according to your budget and liking. Cheers!

[@hood1135]

i have a rockshox monarch, the auto sag when pressed leaks black oil is there an easier fix than to get it serviced??

[@MindDesignFactory]

I have never used a Monarch before and so am not the right person to answer your question. But if the "auto sag" function sets literally sag automatically, it shoud have a link only to the main air chamber. And the main air chamber normally contains a small amout (about 5cc) of lubricating oil. So I think that it is not a big problem if the oil leaking from the auto sag valve is that lubrication oil. The black colour of oil, however, worries me a bit. Something inside the main air chamber might be abnormally worn or it might just be caused by dirt or mud. I recommend that you remove the air can, inspect inside it and replace the seals and/or o-rings if necessary. Hope this helps.

[@pgpt247]

Great video, where did you buy that bikehand shaft clamp?

[@MindDesignFactory]

I bought that on my local bike shop. I think you can find online sellers if you search for "Bikehand axle vise" or "IceToolz axle vise".

[@pgpt247]

@@MindDesignFactory Does local bike shop sell online? I can buy if it's in Japan.

[@MindDesignFactory]

No unfortunately. But are you located in Japan? Then try Amazon. They list the tool at a low price now: www.amazon.co.jp/BIKE-HAND-%E3%83%90%E3%82%A4%E3%82%AF%E3%83%8F%E3%83%B3%E3%83%89-YC-516-%E3%82%A2%E3%82%AF%E3%82%B9%E3%83%AB%E3%83%90%E3%82%A4%E3%82%B9/dp/B07WRBSW3F/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_ja_JP=%E3%82%AB%E3%82%BF%E3%82%AB%E3%83%8A&dchild=1&keywords=%E3%82%A2%E3%82%AF%E3%82%B9%E3%83%AB%E3%83%90%E3%82%A4%E3%82%B9&qid=1620356531&sr=8-6

[@korxac]

Thanks so much for your vid, you're very skilled bro! Btw, my friend has a SR SUNTOUR UNAIR LOR on his bike and yesterday he lock it and he do some bunny hops and few minutes later, when he Unlock it, the rear shock started to do some "spray" noise and we notice Oil Leak... Did you think this process can fix it or this problem can be a different big problem? Thanks so much.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, first of all you should normally not expose your shock to heavy load while locking it out. It might be the case that the high impact load of bunny hops could not be fully parried by the blow-off circuit, and that the internal parts of the shock (incl. o-rings) were damaged, causing the oil leak. Unfortunately I have never seen the internal mechanism of an UNAIR, and so can't tell what the cause of the oil leak possibly is. It may be a damaged shim or o-ring, but maybe not.

[@korxac]

@@MindDesignFactory Thanks so much for your answer, my friend is going to send the shock to a specialist and we lest see what's happening

[@MindDesignFactory]

That is the best choice, I think. And get back here with the outcome. Other guys owning the same shock will definitely be interested in knowing how this will turn out to be. Cheers!

[@korxac]

@@MindDesignFactory thanks bro, I gonna tell you what happens after the service, hope is not bad at all

[@MindDesignFactory]

If you know the internals of a specific shock, it is not very difficult to trace the oil leak to the problem point because the possible routes for oil to leak out of the casing are limited. The real problem is whether necessary spare parts are readily available or damaged parts can be repairable. So let's wait and see. Hope your friend can get back on the saddle soon!

[@georgeenescu5326]

Mechanic: "The O-ring has been melted somehow. Wow. A melted O-ring. I've never seen this before" Mechanic @24:00 torching the hell out of the shaft

[@MindDesignFactory]

Mechanic 1: "Oh, some noob apprentice seems to insist on having seen a misdeed or something." Mechanic 2: "Well, never mind, he probably has no clue how much heat would be required to melt that o-ring. Besides, it is very likely that he has never heard about the old notorious Fox factory damping oil that was aggressive to seals and could cause o-rings to dissolve and melt when damping oil is not changed for many years." Well, it is, kind of, a well-knows problem on old Fox Float shocks that oil leaks due to a failing o-ring. Some defective o-rings were simply broken in pieces and some others were half-melted or completely dissolved. I personally saw some such cases. Many years ago, I even tried to disassemble a shock without using a torch and found a melted o-ring anyway.

[@racerx6]

I had the same leak. I sent it to the Fox service center and they repaired it for $180.00 Expensive, but still cheaper than a new shock.

[@MindDesignFactory]

The most part of that $180.00 is so called "technical fee" or "service charge", and the expense of the actual parts involved in the service is only a fraction of the cost. But still I think $180.00 would be a reasonable charge for this kind of repair work. Considering all the tools, parts and your precious time needed, DIY full rebuild would require more than $180.00 for sure. If you own multiple full-sus bikes, however, the initial cost of all the necessary equipment will pay off in the long run. The problem is that the newer and more sophisticated the air shocks become, the more difficult DIY full service would be due to more parts and more complicated internal mechanism. Your repaired shock will serve you fine for years to come. Cheers:)

[@racerx6]

@@MindDesignFactory Yes. The $180 was well spent.

[@byrodrigozamorano575]

Hello friend, good video, I wanted to ask you a question, what happens is that I have a fox float rp2 and it feels rough when bouncing, it should be noted that the shock does not filter air or oil and that all its regulations work perfectly, My question is if this problem would only be a full maintenance or is it necessary to change the air and oil seals? greetings friend

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, it is very difficult to even guess what causes the problem without actually seeing your shock in my hands. No air or oil leak, and all the controls function flawlessly. But the shock still feels rough when bouncing. It sounds like the shock has lost damping, and if it is the case you need to change damping oil and recharge IFP chamber with high pressure nitrogen or air. My other video ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJSal6qOaceXpM0 ) might be of help. Cheers:)

[@byrodrigozamorano575]

​@@MindDesignFactory Thank you very much friend, tomorrow the full maintenance will be carried out so that it is perfect and enjoy it on the hill, greetings bro and thank you very much for your help.

[@MindDesignFactory]

No need to thank me, mate. Please let me know if the problem has been solved, OK? Cheers:)

[@FunCyclesCannonBeach]

Awesome vids! Very skilled and knowledgeable! I'm curious if you have a similar resource for Fox Float RL model? Thank you, I really love learning about the way things work and you really made my day!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, thank you for your kind comment. I'm really flattered:) Fox Float RL is also an old model. Is it from around 2004? I'm afraid I don't have any experiences on models older than 2007. But the most parts of the video could be applied to RL too, I suppose. Do you have any specific issues/troubles on your mind with your RL?

[@FunCyclesCannonBeach]

​@@MindDesignFactory Hi! Thanks for the swift reply! Well, I think the praise is well deserved. I don't know the year of that particular shock. It's on a 2011-2012 bike, but it may very well be 2004 tech. The shock is making this odd air sucking sound and it doesn't seem to hold when the rebound is set to low. It's not jammed or hasn't ceased, so it travels alright, but makes this sort of air travelling in and out sound. So, I came to the conclusion that the shock body and damping system needs serious attention. I've eliminated the air can option it's been serviced, I checked the schrader valve for leaks and the problem persists, so the damping system is the last thing I can think of. Thanks for your thoughts!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, the "odd air sucking sound" and the non-working rebound damping instantly make me think of damping oil aeration. If you have time, have a look at my video titled "[MTB maintenance] A typical symptom of damping oil aeration - Fox Float RP3 Part01" (kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJSal6qOaceXpM0). Does your "air sucking sound" sound like my slurping noise in the video? If it does, then the shock needs a full rebuild work. This aeration is rather common on old air shocks regardless of manufacturers. Changing oil and recharging gas/air would fix the problem unless the o-rings/seals are worn out and need to be replaced. This in only my guess and I'm not sure if I'm going to the right direction:) But hope this will shed some light on your problem. Cheers:)

[@FunCyclesCannonBeach]

@@MindDesignFactory Yup! you nailed it with this video. Exactly it. In fact I just went to the bike store to have the shock sent to Fox. They have offices very close from here and from the sound of it the amount for the job does not justify me spending hours on it, although I would like to because I love this stuff. Good news is I'll have nitrogen in the shock which will last probably longer. I'll definitely keep you videos in my favorites as I plan to dig into a rear shock some day! ;) Thanks for the tips and guidance!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Great to hear that you've left the shock to Fox! Your shock will come back impeccably refurbished, I'm sure. I'm more than happy if you find my videos informative:) Thanks a lot!

[@josete]

Thank you, amazing bit this reparation process is only for proffesional staff unfortunately

[@carlward4106]

hi i have just bought a bike with a fox float rp2 shock that is leaking from the rebound adjuster knob area, will it cause harm to keep riding it??, great video, sadly beyond my ability!!! thanks

[@MindDesignFactory]

Let me put it somewhat exaggerated:) The more the oil leaks, the more the damping effect decreases. And in the end the shock will become a mere air spring which keeps bouncing uncontrollably. Also the shock might be broken if you keep riding it without the oil. Your best bet would be to get a used well-working shock at eBay or some other place. And there may be someone who would buy your leaking shock for parts. Hope you find a solution in a way or another.

[@carlward4106]

@@MindDesignFactory thanks for your reply, i guess il have to pay the money and get it fixed then

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hope your money will be best spent. Cheers!

[@viktorpolasek7021]

Hi, I was about to do regular air can maintenace and found this O-ring at 20:18 is totaly chewed up. I dont know how this can happen. Is there any way to easy replace it without rebuilding oil part of the shock?

[@MindDesignFactory]

Is your shock frequently bottomed out while you are riding? Maybe too much bottoming out would have caused the O-ring to be damaged. The O-ring is there to dampen the impact and the noise when the shock is bottomed out. To replace it you have to remove the bearing assembly from the piston shaft. A spiral back-up ring or just a splitted thick rubber washer might work if you want to avoid disassembling the shock. But I wouldn't recommend it. Hope this is of some help 😅

[@melaniecotterell8263]

polish small bores with a piece of fine sandpaper wrapped around a drinking straw or a pencil or whatever, Split the straw for tiny bores,

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

My hardly-used fox float just lost all its dampening oil while hanging on the wall. Sure appears to be the adjustment knob area. Less than an hours use on this shock even though It was purchased a decade ago. There is NO reason for an o-ring to disintegrate in this manner on a shock that has never been apart. I believe the honeymoon is now over. I will rebuild this shock yet considering the cost when new...this is insane. Goodbye Fox. Thanks for the video MDF.

[@MindDesignFactory]

I deeply understand how you feel, indeed. This is a well-known issue on old Float shocks and a dark history of Fox. Many, I mean "many", people over the world who own old bikes equipped with old Float shocks really sympathise with your frustration. I hope my videos will be of help, and thanks for watching!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, with "old Float shocks" I mean Float shock models older than around 2011. I should say that little oil in the air valve and on the stanchion is normal if the shock is well maintained and lubricated. Also a bit of a squishy noise might be ok. But if you think that your shock "never worked right", then it is better to get it inspected by your local bike shop once.

[@adamgalvez2109]

Hello , should you happen to to have part number/measurement reference? My axle vice block scribed the position shaft coating.you videos are very Helpful Thank you for your Help Adam

[@MindDesignFactory]

Do you want the part No. of the damping shaft? If your shock is from 2006 to 2008, then check out the following link: vitebskbiker.info/static/docs/fox/Content/PartsLists/rshoxsmallpartslist.htm#rsdamprshfts If your model is newer, then it would be best to ask Fox directly.

[@adamgalvez2109]

@@MindDesignFactory thank you for your hasty respond 👍

[@MindDesignFactory]

😉

[@ScotDouglas]

Excellent video - one critique: I think you mean "shims" when you mention "seams". :)

[@MindDesignFactory]

Ahh, yes, I mean "shims"! Thank you for letting me know that!

[@monkwelde7190]

Hi can you do manitou minute 3 front shocks if you got one?

[@MindDesignFactory]

Unfortunately I've got none of Manitou and so am not familiar with Manitou internals.

[@Team81MTB]

My shock just developed a very small leak at the dust seal. Should I just replace the seals associated with that area? It's an rp2. Thanks

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, the oil leak to be mostly watched out for is a constant leak at the rebound/propedal dial. In your case, if you only see a slight leak at the dust seal, then replace the seal and see if the leak stops. Also when you have removed the air can, have a close look if oil leaks at the oil seal of the bearing unit where the piston shaft slides in and out. On old Float shocks the urethane oil seal of the bearing unit deteriorates over time.

[@Team81MTB]

@@MindDesignFactory Thanks.

[@MindDesignFactory]

👍

[@MikeCanni]

great video but tell me how to pump n2 to the chamber after full rebuild ...

[@MindDesignFactory]

I don't charge the IFP chamber with Nitrogen gas but with natural air. You can see how to do it in my Part 2 video below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5qwk6SffJ2Woac If you want to charge Nitrogen, ask your local motor bike pro shop. They may help you do that. Nitrogen is ideal but ordinary air will do just fine.

[@flashfive23]

Can you skip the nitrogen step?? If the pressure is fine or something??

[@flashfive23]

Also will this work on a CTD DrCV?

[@MindDesignFactory]

To skip the nitrogen step implies that you do nothing but servicing the main air chamber. It is impossible to replace the tiny o-ring causing oil leak without recharging the IFP chamber.

[@kilobravo2373]

Anyone know the name of the part @ 16:00 ? That part was cracked on mine and getting it replaced is turning into a nightmare! I also had the same tiny o ring that was disintegrated as well. The part that threaded on, holding the valving shim stack on. The part he took off with the crescent wrench...

[@MindDesignFactory]

That part is officially called "Piston bolt". The shape and length of the piston bolt differ depending on Float models.

[@kilobravo2373]

@@MindDesignFactoryThank you very much amigo! That makes sense as it is where all of the shims and spacers stack over the internal ports of said bolt. Cant believe mune was broken with the bottom surface broken off from the threaded portion circumferentially through the lower 4 port holes. Crazy... I hope I am able to do you a favor in return for what you've done here for myself and so many others, my friend!

[@MindDesignFactory]

😉

[@kilobravo2373]

@@MindDesignFactory You wouldn't know where I could purchase that bolt, by any chance? The local shop near me, didn't seem to be able to order this when I was there yesterday, and they supposedly are a fox shocks authorized dealer... It was pretty odd. I may have to get this thing machined custom for me...

[@MindDesignFactory]

I am afraid I have no idea. Any authorised Fox dealer should be able to order that bolt or a whole "valving assembly", though Fox might not have no stock of those longer. Or you can get a broken shock cheap at auction or eBay and take the bolt off that shock.

[@weiyang6417]

What do you call that "bike hand" tool? I'm trying to buy it

[@MindDesignFactory]

That tool is normally called "axle vice" (or in US English "axle vise"). IceToolz seems to sell the same tool too. Thanks for watching!

[@weiyang6417]

@@MindDesignFactory thank you for replying and making this video!

[@MindDesignFactory]

You are very welcome!

[@battistaverardi1240]

Oh man this looks extremely difficult. My rp23 is finally leaking from the rebound knob. I don't know if it's even worth fixing anymore.

[@MindDesignFactory]

If you've got proper tools for this fix work, it is actually not so difficult as it may looks to be. So if you already have or can obtain necessary tools and parts without hassle, it might be worth a try. Cheers.

[@battistaverardi1240]

@@MindDesignFactory are you based out of the USA? Was going to say maybe you could fix mine!?

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, I'm located in the far east (Japan). There are many, and I mean "many", skilled techy MTB guys in the USA. So maybe you can find someone who would help you fixing your RP23:)

[@racerx6]

I sent mine into Fox for the same leak. they rebuilt it for $180.00

[@battistaverardi1240]

I took the o ring out of the metering rod and it is perfectly good. So I don't know why it's leaking from this area.

[@MindDesignFactory]

There is a bit bigger o-ring inside the shaft through which the metering rod slides in. This o-ring is normally not so vulnerable to damage, but it's still worth checking it. Also take a close look on the surface of the compression rod if there are very small scratches aroung the area where the o-ring touches. On rare occasions, oil leak is caused by this faint damage on the compression rod even though the o-ring itself is intact. Does oil leak even while your bike is stored still at garage, or only while or after you ride your bike? When the o-ring is damaed, oil keeps leaking even when the bike is not ridden.

[@battistaverardi1240]

@@MindDesignFactory I got it figured out. When I took apart the rebound knob and the propedal lever the tiny ball and spring that sits at the top were inside on the side of the shaft. I don't know how that happened. So that is where the oil was leaking. I put them back in place and it's as good as new. And all the o rings are good. Now I just have to figure a way to put air in the lower chamber. I might do what you did with a needle or I saw somewhere where you can permanently put a shader valve there as a modification and put air in there as often as you want. But great video and thank you so much!

[@MindDesignFactory]

Wow, that's a kind of miracle:) How is it possible? But great that you have sorted out the problem now. Thank you so much for your feedback! It's a very valuable one, I am sure, for many, because we have now more causes to think about when trying to solve the oil leak problems. Have a good ride, cheers!

[@chadson5244]

@@battistaverardi1240 you can buy those schrader valves on AliExpress

[@cyborgxcz]

I would love to try rebuilt mine after the disaster from a bike shop that try and failed :-( The only thing that is discouraging me from that right now is two things. When I took the shock apart to inspect it I found scratches like tool marks on the golden shaft that attaches to the top cap close to the rubber o-ring and silver washer and then few at the end, second is when I open the oil chamber all the shims were lose the bolt was not screwed in so no idea on the order of the shims. I did found few pictures of other broke down pistons and assembled together to the best of my knowledge but who knows. Would you even bother wasting more money on that shock at this point? Other than that I wish I know about this tutorial before I entrusted someone else :-(

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, I am very sorry to hear that your rear shock had been screwed up by a shockingly unskilled bike shop😭 The shim stack could be restored at least in a working manner. The problem is the scratches on the piston shaft, especially those near the top cap. They would cause oil leak every time the shock is compressed and damage the urethane o-ring of the bearing assembly. Any Fox certified service center could repair your shock although it would cost much more than you would expect. You might be able to find a new piston shaft at eBay if your shock is a popular Float model and has a normal size. Just check out eBay and search for "Fox piston shaft". Beware that older Float shocks had a shaft of 9.5mm diameter whereas the newer models have a 9.0mm one. Wish you the best of luck!

[@cyborgxcz]

@@MindDesignFactory Thank you so much I figured that will be the issue some surfaces especially those in contact with rubber seals cannot be scratched or gauged. I was able to figured out the model based on the serial 2010 RP23 boost valve 8.50 x 2.50 and already searching for replacement or alternative.

[@MindDesignFactory]

RP23 boost valve is a good shock. So bad it has been ruined. Good luck with your hunt for a replacement.

[@stathisbikos6563]

What amount of bearing assembly play (Large main piston, 19:40) would be considered allowable? Specifically referring to play between the internal bushing of the assembly against the internal shaft. I've sent mine in for a full service because of leaks and the shop argues that it is not worth rebuilding the shock because of play in the bearing. It is not a lot of play but it is hard to convey here. Shop basically argues that any amount of visible play is too much. That you should maybe feel a slight bit of it but any visible motion is unacceptable. I tend to trust them, but it makes no sense to me, as this assembly is held parallel to the shock by being threaded onto the stanchion anyway, and the shaft is also supported on both ends, one threaded on the top and the other centered by the internal hydraulic piston... so no lateral play is allowed anyway... Should we just continue on with the service and not worry about it? Or are they 100% right? (we cannot currently find a replacement assembly, otherwise I would just change it out)

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, first of all I agree, in favour of your shop, that it would be no use rebuilding a shock having visible play between the sleeve bearing and the piston shaft. Because the damping oil is highly pressurised and will inevitably leak through play, resulting in the loss of damping force and eventually the unrecoverable damage of the shock internals. Now here are my own thoughts on this problem: First, the piston shaft is actually under multi-directional force while it is working in a real life situation. It appears to cycle in a simple vertical sliding motion, but in fact the shaft also vibrates laterally so to speak. That is why play will occur over time. Secondly, it would be very hard to find a brand-new replacement bearing assembly for an old Float shock, but it IS possible to replace only the sleeve bearing (or bushing). If you live in USA, I think it won't be so hard to find a replacement bearing. Search for the reference code "06NU04" of "Steel-Backed PTFE Lined Sleeve Bearing" (0.3750 in Bore, 0.4688 in OD, 0.2500 in Length). This bearing is in imperial units and very hard to find in countries using metric units. Also, check out my another video showing how to remove the bushing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZutY2Wmot2jfLs Hope this reply will help shedding light on your questions :) Whanks for watching!

[@stathisbikos6563]

@@MindDesignFactory wow! That was awesome. Thank you so much for this reply!

[@stathisbikos6563]

@@MindDesignFactory If I may, I have a follow up question: I'm looking up the code and I'm finding this may refer to a split type bushing. What type is the original bushing in the shock? Is it split-ring type or solid? thanks again!

[@MindDesignFactory]

The original sleeve bearing (bushing) is of the split type. You may need a sturdy rod and a vice (vise in US?) to drive in a brand-new bushing into the bearing unit. Also keep in mind that the piston shaft might also be worn thinner (though very slightly). In that case you might need to replace the shaft too. But as long as I know, it is in most cases just the PTFE layer inside of the bushing that is worn out. Hope your shock will be fixed up :)

[@stathisbikos6563]

@@MindDesignFactory good to know! thanks again!!!

[@elbaroccio]

Hi friend greate video. Do you sell internal shock parts? I got one RP23 (like the one in this video) but has 1 broken part and 2 missed parts, so I need these 3 parts. If you got an email I can send you the image of the parts I need. Hope you can helpe me.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, unfortunately I've got no spare parts for sale. Some parts you can find on the net, but it is usually hard to find the very parts you are looking for though. Maybe you could find a cheap used RP23 on eBay for parts.

[@elbaroccio]

@@MindDesignFactory Bad luck, but Thanks for the answer. Good day.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Very welcome:) Thanks for watching!

[@juricagajski4717]

where I can buy bike hand tool

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hi, just search for "axle vise" in Google or maybe at eBay. If you don't mind to buy a Chinese cheap alternative, then check out the link below: Axle vice (5mm~16mm) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBlSRbL This is my affiliate link. Thanks for watching!

[@juricagajski4717]

@@MindDesignFactory Thanks!!!

[@MindDesignFactory]

😉

[@agusgunawan6251]

Gerakan nya kaya pantomim

[@mountainbikingfortherestofus]

A great video but man, way over my head. Looks like I am going to have to dish out $180 for the shop to rebuild my Fox RP23

[@MindDesignFactory]

With everything, the cost of all the tools and time to be required, taken into acount, the self-rebuild doesn't pay after all. I have five Float shocks to care for and am in a way forced to learn to rebuild them myself. Your $180 will be well spent, I bet. Thanks for watching!

[@mountainbikingfortherestofus]

That makes sense. Thank you. By the way, good video production as well.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Thank you! Have a nice ride :)

[@BeaulieuTodd]

What could have melted that? A blow torch maybe? Just kidding.

[@MindDesignFactory]

Oh, it might be, yes, if you keep blowing way too long:) I think the factory damping oil was chemically a bit too aggressive. I have seen similar cases many times on older Fox Float shocks now. One time I saw that the factory (I mean "the oil Fox used at that time") damping oil made a very thin nylon bag slimy (almost melted) and penetrated it after been kept in it for several months. Newer Fox shock seems to be ok though.

[@lettenbergern]

@@MindDesignFactory What is the part number for this small O-ring that was damaged (located near the adjustment knob end of the rebound/propedal rods? How did you source a replacement?

[@MindDesignFactory]

Do you want to know the part number of the genuine Fox spare part, then refer to this link, for example: www.silverfish-uk.com/products/SPARES/Forks/02908043_Fox-O-Ring-(Single)-10mm-CS-x-25mm-id To be exact, it is of nitrile and of hardness 70 (durometer 70). You can purchase a Fox genuine o-ring from a certified supplier, or find a similar alternative on the net (eBay, Amazon etc.)

[@rusakd5972]

Podrías ponerle.subitulado español te agradecería. Mucho saludos desde peru

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hola, puedes usar la traducción automática. Configuración -> subtítulo -> traducción automática. ¡Oh, eres de la tierra de los dioses de los Andes! ¡Gracias por ver!

[@rusakd5972]

No está disponible la traducción automática sólo pone en inglés.. ni.modo

[@MindDesignFactory]

¿Ves KZbin en tu PC? Creo que la traducción automática no está disponible en smartphone. (support.google.com/youtube/answer/100078?co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop&hl=es) Seleccionar el idioma de los subtítulos Para cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos, haz clic en el icono de subtítulos de un vídeo. Si el idioma que quieres no aparece, puedes seleccionar la opción de subtítulos traducidos automáticamente, que se traducen con Google Translate. 1.Haz clic en el icono de configuración en la parte inferior de la pantalla de vídeo. 2.Selecciona Subtítulos. 3.Haz clic en Traducir automáticamente. 4.Elige un idioma.

[@rusakd5972]

Ola tengo el mismo shock ..rp23 fox float y ps no le funciona el bloqueo amigo ..suena el clips pero no bloqueo sabes cual podría ser la causa y si tiene solución..le agradeceria mucho si hiciera un vídeo ..Saludos

[@MindDesignFactory]

Hola, no estoy seguro de haber entendido correctamente su mensaje esta vez. Pero, ¿te refieres a "lock out" con la palabra "bloqueo"? Si es el caso, entonces RP23 no tiene función de "bloqueo".

[@surapolsajjanukool2730]

Vid for only professional dude only! I do not have that much delicate equipment and instruments.

[@MindDesignFactory]

"only professional dude only!"??? You can purchase all the tools and parts used in the video on the internet. I intentionally avoid using any proprietary tools so that any home-mechanic could try to fix the problem. The will and the reasonable manual dexterity are the only things needed to perform this kind of work.

[@blasphemeuxjimbo5607]

That's a nasty job! I hate it

[@MindDesignFactory]

This is surely a nasty job :) But once you've learned how to go about doing it, it is not a big deal any longer. Thanks for watching!

[@blasphemeuxjimbo5607]

I can tell you that you did a very job, very well explained! How much it cost for the special tools? Any link where i get those tools? Thank you

[@MindDesignFactory]

Actually I have received so many inquiries about where to buy those tools. I will add the links to the tools that are the same as or similar to those used within the video in the description. I will let you know when done.

[@blasphemeuxjimbo5607]

@@MindDesignFactory Thank you!