Valve Lash Adjuster Replacment without removing cams 4.6L / 5.4L DOHC / SOHC Mustang

[@poot111111]

You have some of the best Mod Motor and Mustang content on YT. You deserve more followers!

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Thank you! Yeah, I should probably tell more people to subscribe and I’d get more followers. I didn’t want to tell anyone to do something, but I should have lol

[@JamesThomas-i2q]

Great Job, I am amazed by the design,

[@twood51]

Thanks for sharing this, I have to change a couple lifters/ lash adjusters and this will help a ton!!!

[@OEMPlus]

DUDE.i can't believe its that simple. i've been trying to figure out this weird noise in my valvetrain and i think these might be it.

[@w00derice]

Likewise with my 01 Romeo 2v. Roller isn't happy on cylinder 7. Going to swap all the followers and the lash adjusters in the next few months. For now it's just an annoying tick at idle to 1800 rpm's (not an exhaust leak in my case).

[@mr.roush6709]

Great video and info man!!! I’ve built several mod motors from 2V fully forged Teksid blocks to 5.2 Voodoos and really they all are very similar, which coyote is a 4.6 design basically even rods are same 5.933 .... can’t wait to start a 2020 GT500 predator build

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Very cool you have all that experience!

[@OEMPlus]

i have coyote boss 302 rods in my cobra motor :D

[@petrolhead8851]

@@OEMPlus coyote boss 302 rods are a direct fit on all 4.6 cobras?

[@SVT.bullitt]

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage would doing this potentially solve a ticking noise from my driver side head when warmed up? Or would it be valve guides ?

[@123karismith]

Dude! I just wanted 28 bucks on a valve spring compressor for 3v mod motors...face palm...I already had a screw driver! Well, at least I can still remove/replace the rocker arms when I misplace the spring compressor tool...haha Great video

[@jeffreybinkis3982]

I like the vid, I’m curious if your method would work on the 5.4 triton? I don’t see why it probably would not, however have you experienced any problems doing them this same way w/o a spring compressor tool? Would really appreciate you feedback thanks

[@closertothetruth9209]

these cam lifter/lash adjuster set up is near identical to the ford barra 6cyl

[@user-uy7fb1sv3k]

Great video…Will this method work on s550 coyote 5.0??

[@THE3VGA]

Beautifully done.

[@Wings65288]

Great vid. Do you have a vid of a head gasket change with motor in the car? I'm trying to see if one can change the head gasket without having a valve go into the piston. I don't have to change mine but I'm just curious on the process.

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

I have a video that shows the process- it’s outside the car but the same thing. The valves will stay in the cylinder heads. They will only come out if you remove the cams and the valve keepers. At least on these 4.6L engines kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIWYi2iCZ9x0qdU

[@chuckhooper25]

Can you replace the valve seals without removing the cams

[@MikesGarageRoute66]

The screwdriver trick worked! Thanks!

[@bengordon7635]

The 4.6l cams are rated for 120k then need replacing , the bearings start fail and causes the engine to overheat ,, ,, the Valve stem seals are a must after 120k ,, the 4.6l motor runs hot and heats up very fast and cools fast which rapidly degrades stem seals causing them to get very hard and thus oil leaking into cylinder head ., , $200 for stock cams from ford ,, $75 for all new stock valves ... stem seals are super cheap ... and all the new hydraulic lifters is $139 ..,, so if your engine does not idle good and alittle smoke from exhaust means your stem seals are bad and you exhaust ports will be clogged with sentiments ,, My exhaust port barely had a whole the size of dime ,, after I cleaned my heads with new valves fixed all my over heating issues and idle

[@Str8pipeyae]

Nhey where are u located?

[@terryjones1899]

Have a 2003 mach 1 top end raffle bad.above 1800-2000.any idea? Have video.

[@smileyfromthestreetz8624]

Im putting in new lash adjusters on 4.6 on a towncar they look exactly the same as the ones in this video. I just have one question because im getting different advice from people. Do the new lash adjusters have to go in primed with oil in them(hard not able to be pressed in) or can i just put them in like that (being able to press them in with my finger) please i would really appreciate your take on it

[@THE3VGA]

Yes, they should be primed.

[@THEKINGSARIM]

Hi. What position should the lobe be in ?

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Base circle (lowest point) against the cam lobe when removing each roller. You’ll turn the crankshaft (must be in neutral for manual transmission cars but automatics you can turn the crankshaft with it in park no problem).

[@hamuhnator8136]

Doesn't work on 4.6 3V. Tolerance is too tight to remove lash adjusters.

[@thegeneticmachine270]

How are you priming the lash adjusters? Submerging them in oil, similar to hydraulic lifters?

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Yes, submerge in oil and stick a allen key into the nose. It allows you to pump the top bulb that way

[@tylersgarage1]

Quick question you don’t have to bleed them to put them back in right? If the motor is in time you can just put them back in?

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Correct. You can prime them by pushing an Allen key in the hole at the top while submerging them in a bag of oil.

[@knowone-sts2263]

Will this work on a 3valve 4.6 ?

[@snap-off5383]

same for 32 valve intec on navigator? any advice as to hunting down which one is ticking?

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Yes, should be the same. It will be hard without the engine operating. You’ll need to remove them and see if any are easily collapsible or any notable damage. Sometimes the rollers have fallen off of the lash adjuster

[@erichschwarz7317]

I have lower compression on cylinder 6 and 7 (160 and 180 psi vs 210) could changing out the valve adjuster fix this issue?

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

If it is in the valves and not the piston rings, it could help, but 160+ psi is pretty normal.

[@erichschwarz7317]

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I reach 210 in all other pistons, only 6 and 7 reach only 150 and 160. That would be unusual I assume?

[@thomasv5596]

how do you prime the new ones with oil

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Submerge them in a bag of oil, put an Allen key down into the top hole and pump them.

[@thomasv5596]

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage danny thank you for the reply, i'm about to order a set of lifters/lash adjuster and rocker arms/roller followers. I've done a timing chain job on my ford f150 so i'm familiar with it but just want to be specific here so i'll know exactly what i'm doing. you're saying that there will be a hole that i can fit an allen key into, while its submerged in oil, and pump the allen key in and out like a plunger, several times, and its good to go? i just don't want to mess it up.

[@tylersgarage1]

Awesome video

[@change_your_oil_regularly4287]

I've got the Aussie Boss260. Should be very similar.

[@markkozz62]

While we are talking heads. i have a 04 with 9200 miles and it has the dreaded drivers side tick that drives me crazy. I do not really want to pull the motor to fix the head. Do U know of anyone that has done this procedure without pulling the motor? Also do U know if it is worth it to rebuild said head or do U think I am better of finding the 05 revised head. Whats your thoughts ?

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Mark Theakston With such low miles and it not sounding like you’re building the car up to be a complete track monster, I would rebuild the nice, low milage heads you have. The way I see it, the heads need to come off to properly remove the valves and press in new valve seats.

[@markkozz62]

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Do you think that I could get away with out pulling the motor to do so? I know that is is probably easier with motor out

[@markkozz62]

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage have you ever heard of anyone pulling the head without pulling the motor

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

Yes, you can leave the engine in the car. It’s a lot more difficult that way of course. Here is my video on what’s involved removing the cylinder head kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIWYi2iCZ9x0qdU

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

And here is my video on removing the terminator engine if you go that route kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3e9h3yhedKaj5o

[@lukyanrosselli]

Awesome!

[@thomasv5596]

hey danny this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5PUfIqwndWmfrM mentions keeping the crankshaft key way at 9 o clock to make sure there is no damage to the pistons when compressing the springs to remove the lash adjusters. is this a concern? i notice you don't mention it in your video i'm currently in the middle of this project on my 5.4 3v. i'm also not having enough clearance to pull out my lifters.

[@dannyjohnsonsgarage]

This video is not covering spring or valve removal. It’s only removing the lash adjusters. As you rotate the engine it will always be in time for this procedure and will never have any kind of piston to valve changes. Replacing cams, removing keepers and keeping valves from falling into the cylinder, or contacting pistons would be a different operation.

[@thomasv5596]

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage hes actually doing the exact same thing you are doing, only he's not replacing the lash adjusters even, just the rocker arms on top. thats why i was curious why he was saying it needed to be at the 9 o clock position

[@ryanv7195]

@@thomasv5596 I saw that video before also and am curious