Volvo XC70 Wheel Hub Replacement - Whirring Noise? (S60, V70, S80)

[@fcpeuro]

Shop the Products used: www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-wheel-hub-assembly-rear-s60-s80-v70-xc70-awd-31201010#fitment?

[@leonkayson8402]

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[@declandavid7830]

@Leon Kayson i use Flixzone. You can find it by googling :)

[@kasonmarcelo1529]

@Declan David Yea, have been watching on flixzone for months myself =)

[@leonkayson8402]

@Declan David Thank you, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) Appreciate it !!

[@declandavid7830]

@Leon Kayson you are welcome xD

[@kurtbrigaman5141]

I just finished the same wheel bearing on my 07 xc70. I figured out an easier way to loosen the hard to reach bolt. If you use standard 3/8 drive socket 3"and a 6" you can get to it and loosen it up almost all the way. Once you pull the bearing out you can get it the rest of the way. I had pics don't see a way to load them. I really appreciate the way you did it a lot easier the disconnecting the sway bar.

[@ZZZZZZZIPD]

I'm so happy FCP publishes these videos for the weekend warriors. Easy to follow, take your time and use safety measures & YOU can also do these repairs, saving THOUSANDS. Not only that, the part links are VERY helpful.

[@michelletcharlestonrealty]

Thank you, this video was a huge help! My 2003 XC70 had 17mm bolts holding the hub in place. The hub remover from Autozone didn't fit over the hole so I beat it off with a sledgehammer. And please wear safety goggles!

[@bobbythompson6009]

I replaced my rear bearing on my 2007 XC70 116,000 miles. I found it to be very easy. I removed the Volvo logo from wheel with small screw driver to get access to axle bolt and loosened on the ground. I didn't remove the shock. I set my XC70 on a JackStand and I used a floor jack to keep the arm in place. All bolts were easy to get to. I had to use a long 15mm boxend wrench to loosen the lower bearing bolt. I used a hub puller from auto parts store for free. I had to remove the disk with the hub. It was stuck good. One smack with hammer on the disk on the floor did the trick. How did I know it was the right rear hub? That was where the sound came. I also jacked up the rear wheels and rocked the wheels for play; left side had none and the right did. I have a very quite Volvo now.

[@Apgroupusa]

Extremely helpful! Was able.to do my wife's S80 in about 2.5hrs. Total.

[@Kevthebish]

Those were Nike "Pro Mechanic" limited edition sneakers at 16:31. They came with special soles for standing on lug nuts and in case of amputation from a falling car, they kept the toes intact within the front of the sneaker when separated the from the foot for easy retrieval by first responders. I don't know why they stopped making them.

[@illitero]

Thank you! Too limited, if you ask me. Intact toe retrieval is so important for the deceased's requested open coffin funeral with flip-flops, I'm with you on being upset that they stopped production.

[@AdamPReed]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Even though I have the ability to do this job it is always nice to know the tricks before I start the repair. This is literally the only video I can find on this issue and you were very clear and concise. Again, thank you.

[@guitartricky]

Another great video! If the XC70 rear control arm is anything like the FWD S60 rear control arm, you can loosen the inner control arm bolt to release the tension in order to align the shock onto the stud. Your way worked just fine but I just wanted to add that for others that may not be as brave as you guys. Keep up the excellent work FCP!

[@780truck]

to FCP Euro... I watched your Mechanic struggle with pulling down the suspension to install the lower shock eye at the end of this video. While working on my own 2005 XC70 this afternoon, I discovered a faster and easier method for pushing down the suspension. For XC70's equipped with the Cast Steel lower control arms with holes on the upper and lower surfaces, there is a large opening at the hub end of the control arm. Simply insert a 1-1/2 Inch Dia (30mm+) x 3 Foot (1 meter) long steel pipe into this opening and push down or stand on the end of the pipe to leverage it downward while a second person attaches the shock eye to the control arm... It will save you lots of time and much frustration....

[@everettjacobson6168]

Alternatively, you can jack up the knuckle to access and completely remove that tricky lower bolt without having to unfasten the shock at all. Just replaced both rear wheel bearings on my xc70 and this was much easier especially when you don't have an extra hand.

[@Quagula]

780truck remove the shock they said. Itll make things easier they said. Baloney!!!

[@Phamyunx]

I really love the part that a friend came to help using feet to lower the controls arm. That was exactly what I did today for my 2009 XC90 V8 although the strut is a little bit different

[@Peppermint1]

Usually the original bearings are very long lasting on the P2 S60-XC70 combo (much less on the XC90 which was too heavy). However, given some of these Volvos see quite high mileage, you may have a bearing failing after 200,000 miles or so. All 4 bearings on my S60 with 140000 miles are still in excellent condition. That said, once I got fooled I had a bad bearing when in fact it was a tire that would rumble like a bearing at higher speed. So before you undo the 4 bearing bolts and start removing it from the hub - which by the way need a strong puller if you live in the northern states - so before removing the little guy, give it a spin by hand kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6eoootof9WBecU And if you even start punching a bearing out, NEVER put it back, punching it will cause the plate securing the wheel lugs to slightly bent (not visible to the eye) which will have your wheel lugs break loose while driving (you will remember that day). Use only FAG (with light brown seal), SKF has been questionable lately - in fact, they may make them for Volvo, but the ones they sell as 'aftermarket' may not be of the same quality. And don't forget the black plastic 'cap' between the bearing and the axle, it protects the bearing seal for longer life

[@maryestheraustin2505]

You are an excellent technician.Very well done!

[@nerothostv]

impressed. You did it in 17 minutes

[@LynxStarAuto]

No need to remove shock. Use a floor jack, or a screw jack (if working on a lift) to compress the suspension and get access to the bolt. Use of swivel sockets with a strong 3/8 impact gun, or a 1/2 impact will make it much less work than cheater wrenches and ratchets. Finally that hub tool is to be used with a slide hammer. You don't want to apply all that force on the tip of the CV axle and ruin it. Otherwise good video Youngblood. Keep it up

[@alexandermartincausey7333]

What would something like this typically cost?

[@matthewabel5486]

This is how I do it too. Good comment.

[@johnferguson7235]

Need to put copper grease on the brake pads and lube the caliper pins. You should also use a torque wrench on the axle bolt and the caliper pins. Be careful when removing the brake pad clips. If you bend them, the brakes will never stop squealing. As Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) says in his comment below, ..."that hub tool is to be used with a slide hammer. You don't want to apply all that force on the tip of the CV axle and ruin it."

[@SHINdanny]

" You don't want to apply all that force on the tip of the CV axle and ruin" ...and I thought that was the plan, customer returns weeks later, "I hear some clacking sounds form the back of my car" no problem Mr. Customer, we can help you

[@MacBob]

No, copper grease shouldn't be anywhere near brakes! There are appropriate products available that won't damage piston seals or the slider boots

[@gerardjones7881]

Finally got the hub off. I beat on it for 2 days. In the end i pulled all the brake hardware, pulled the brake cable out and inserted a long extension through the backplate, then I was able to drive it out from the backside with 3lb hammer. Now to put the bad bearing back in whilst I wait for a new one. Doh.!

[@markhumphrey8894]

AT 9:50 please tell the nice Volvo P2 owners that that is were the ABS tone ring is located. I've been thinking the ABS ring is on the outside area of the CV joint axle like on the front. It's not on the axle;it's inside the wheel bearing. There is no exposed tone ring. Thanks for the great videos.

[@UCPCBensenville]

So much easier to work on a car when it's on a lift...

[@Peppermint1]

Question for you guys: wouldn't pushing so strong against the axle with that puller, possibly damage the axle balls/bearings that would cause vibrations on the steering (on the front wheel bearings) ?

[@tedbrookins]

P2 Volvos are relatively easy cars to work on. Love ‘em! Better than heating and cutting bearing races out!

[@fcpeuro]

😎

[@HakeemKaree]

Great job, only question I have is could you jack up the suspension instead of removing the shock.

[@DVolvoguy777-x7o]

I tried that and the suspension doesn’t travel far enough.

[@TwoWheelsDeep]

Thank you for this video, I got lucky and only needed a ring spanner on that awful hidden 17mm nut. I dropped the car down onto an axle stand positioned under the lower swingarm to push the suspension up and it give me a tiny bit more room. God knows how you got that 17mm socket in there!

[@DVolvoguy777-x7o]

Removing the shock works well but a pain in the keister to get the shock back on the lower shock mount. This is where I am stuck.

[@TwoWheelsDeep]

@@DVolvoguy777-x7o I noted that in the video so i left the shock on! Good luck!

[@DVolvoguy777-x7o]

@@TwoWheelsDeep I never got the strut back on the mount. I even thought of leaving it on but I live in Chicago and the bold was very rusty. I had no choice. The strut is now jammed between the control arm and wishbone. The car has 238k and I’m over it. When the wheel bearing failed it took out the ABS sensor parking brake, rotor and caliper. I’m glad you were able to resolve your bearing! Thanks for the comment.

[@DVolvoguy777-x7o]

@@TwoWheelsDeep I dropped the wishbone and had enough room to push the control arm down far enough to get the shock back on. It’s fixed and I drove the car today. Have a great new year sir!

[@MattJonesYT]

Should put anti-seize between the knuckle and new hub so it isn't glued together with rust next time around.

[@mutos82]

indeed. for example simple ceramic paste this one wich you use in the brakes system.

[@robertpaulsen969]

I was cringing at the hub puller part. Seems like all that pressure would be bad for the CV joint

[@ggtaruc2578]

I thought the same. The splined shaft will go in as you push in to it. Seems like its bad for the CV like you said.

[@swenstreed]

What's torque spec for rear wheel bearing: 1) Wheel bearing hub to spindle housing? Believe it's supposed to be 15 lbft then 33 lbft + angle torque to 60 deg. Is this correct? 2) Axle bolt(volvo calls it a driveshaft) bolt which goes thru bearing into outer CV joint? Is it the same as the front at 35Nm[26Lbft] + angle torque to additional 90 degrees? Is the axle bolt: a) Torque to yield; need to replace bolt or b) torque to angle. Some times 'torque to angle' will yield material as well which will require bolt replacement.

[@nairbocor]

Didnt grease the guide pins for caliper i know where i live if you dont lubricate the pins every year they will seize

[@notundermywatch3163]

Nice video but I recommend everyone to use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts

[@GasGiant62]

Great video, great job! But you should use break cleaner on new discs, also wouldn't be very happy if a pro fixed my car and didn't use a torque wrench.

[@reallyhappenings5597]

GasGiant62. For better or worse, most pros (for whom time is money) forego torque specs -- it's either "hand tight" or "ultimate impact extreme." Dealerships might be better, but in my experience if you want every fastener on an older car to be torqued to manufacturer spec, you have to do it yourself.

[@rudyschuele47]

Great video! Thank you for all of the details!

[@mccannsn]

Great video, very informative 👍

[@ggtaruc2578]

Did you push in to the drive shaft when you were using the hub puller tool???? Won't it damage the drive shaft??

[@kawasjt]

was thinking the same thing... should have used a pull hammer

[@illiaaverchenko7774]

hub removal was not fun. and now I cannot line up the shock to put it back, I even tried to lift shock into position with floor jack but entire rear side lifts. any suggestions?

[@GamezGames19]

This channel will grow..

[@ianholmes8790]

Is there any reason thread lock is / was not used on the hub / Caliper bolts ?

[@reallyhappenings5597]

those bolts are tty and replaced every time. new ones from Volvo come with threadlocker pre-applied

[@ZynovFTW]

Is this the same process for a 1999 Volvo S70? (Replacing wheel hub assembly that is)

[@fcpeuro]

The essential information can be used however the procedure isn't exactly the same.

[@reallyhappenings5597]

No S70 is on the p80 chassis. Xc70 is the p2. Rear end very different

[@pgreenx]

I wish you guys would explain why a part needs replacing?

[@fcpeuro]

We do in all our new format videos pgreenx, we agree!

[@keithr2203]

how long should each one take to replace?

[@deedterb]

is this the same process for 2005 volo v70? and is the abs sensor in the same place? and only on the rear wheel?

[@olle209]

Is it a must to use a hub puller tool to get the old hub out? Is it not possible to use a hammer and pry it out with a crow bar our something?

[@fcpeuro]

Yes, you can use a hammer to remove the old hub.

[@surfercalaveralfc]

Hi Mike, what are the general symtoms of a failing wheel hub?

[@michelletcharlestonrealty]

Its a humming noise that gets quieter when you turn the wheel one way.

[@antonzhloba6929]

At what mileage do they usually fail? I've got a 2010 Volvo S80 3.2.

[@fcpeuro]

Hard to say, you'll usually notice a whirring noise when they go bad. How many miles on your S80?

[@antonzhloba6929]

@@fcpeuro 80 K miles

[@markferraro5250]

Great video thank you so much FCP

[@Swtcherries27]

Hi FCP Euro i have a 2005 volvo s40 ...i think my bearing is bad on the rear right tire everytime i drive it sound like its dry an rubbing ... I cant afford to fix it now how long can i drive on it

[@ericaviator8869]

HIGHLY recommend usung torque wrench on that hub to the CV axke bolt !!

[@freerikki]

Is this the same for a xc 90 rear?

[@RonPieper61]

Thanks for posting and explaining, nice job. Q: is it possible to remove the caliper carrier with the caliper still attached? Have done so on other cars...less stuff to disassemble/reassemble.

[@RonPieper61]

+Ron Pieper Yes it works like a charm.

[@dylankabrich7379]

Did this procedure on the front of my XC70, now I hear a grinding noise when I turn???

[@jeremiahnichols8272]

Wish I had you guys to help work on my 01 Volvo S60. When you get 212k on it you get a few problems to say the least.

[@tonertrevino]

Is this process the same for a 2004 xc90?

[@jasonvangorden1265]

Yes, this process is the same for the XC90

[@filmclothes247]

can someone tell me what this typically runs in price? I have a 2004 xc70 Volvo

[@fcpeuro]

Hello Candice, the part is listed on our site for $212.49 per side - www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-wheel-hub-assembly-rear-s60-s80-v70-xc70-awd-31201010

[@arivaisanen4561]

The correct torque specs to be used - it is must!

[@blackwingvisuals5017]

Wow a great video many thanks :)

[@jeffgeorge2276]

Outstanding video. Thank you so much.

[@fcpeuro]

+Jeff George Always happy to help!

[@joshuarogers8466]

The lack of proper torque on bolts is what destroyed my front left axle and the bearing.

[@plandl1]

God. The labor charge must be enormous.

[@andrzejt1984]

You didn't clean and lubricate the sliders

[@somyrab]

No threadlock No torque settings used

[@Gordon302]

Well, it only proves that FCP Euro will use 'any' employee to promote their products; not necessarily the mechanics that they should have, demonstrating to us, the 'proper' procedure for this job. It's pretty damn pathetic when commenters are correcting "the mechanic".

[@TiminNicaragua]

There is more than one way to do almost any job. I think he did an excellent job, explained himself well. If you knew how to do this job, why did you waste your time watching this video?

[@cowlumbus]

These are not Volvo techs that are allowed to do something only one way...that is usually the expensive ways. There are many ways to skin a cat, so relax. Some people have been doing things for decades with no harmful effects that would make the designer/engineers cringe. Labs and real world are different even in car repair.

[@bubak235]

Of the 50% poor technological progress. I think that before we start publicly give advice should you first truly find out how to do it. Working the Volvo 20 years so I think that I know something about it.

[@sergeyshipunov748]

что при замене подшипника надо менять диск ???вроде биения небыло !!! развод по европейски !????????????

[@fcpeuro]

Извините за плохой перевод . Даподшипник должен быть изменен.

[@mutos82]

Hi. I always wonder how a man uses a wrench extension or a punched wrench instead of a dynametric wrench without even using a bit of lubricant on the screw thread. okay, I know why - because in 95% of cases he will not be doing the same job again, so let another one worry.

[@aleserr6271]

Rookieee who uses a press for a bolt on rear hub? Come on man

[@trungle9923]

Not a good mechanic

[@plandl1]

SO, IT IS 2014. Has Volvo done any damned thing to make this bearing assembly feom locking up that so many videos need to make to get it fr??!!! BTW, mine is 2011 and still a bitch to remove.

[@user-ef5zo9yv3l]

No torque specs 😂. I don’t think you know how to do it . Don’t like mechanics that don’t use torque wrench . Call me old school , that’s ok

[@MsMsmak]

Dayum. I just had this done on my 2014 xc. Cost me $800. Ouch.

[@papadamsass]

Is this process the same for a 2007 S80?

[@jasonvangorden1265]

Unfortunately the 2007 S80 was the first year of the new platform so the procedure is different, our apologies.