I think the conclusion should be that temperature went down when I blocked as much primary air as I could. When I captured the blue flames in the riser both primary and secondary were open as much as possible. I think I forgot to take a temperature reading because I was too amazed by what I was seeing 😜 I got the highest (measured) temperature when I moved the slider in front of the secondary air, but there's a significant gap between the door and those pipes, so I think if they want to suck in air they still can. Also the yellow flames didn't go away when I started blocking primary or secondary air, only when both were wide open. I have seen rocket stove videos where they do shut down primary air when it's up to temperature, but I guess my quick and easy build with 1 inch boards doesn't hold temperature that well and needs primary air. Maybe if you build another 1 inch layer around this one it works better, but then you're doubling cost also... Maybe then it's more efficient to just go straight to casting it 2 inch thick as recommended in the first place 😉 Edit: you can make the riser as wide as you want as long as you keep everything in proportion; it has to be taller and your fire box has to scale in all dimensions also. I would recommend a larger fire box so you don't have to fill it as often, but I didn't want to go taller than 2 ft on the riser.

It comes shipped with some pressure in it and the manual says you should store it with pressure in it. It doesn't leak air even if I put it away for a few months.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Good to know and to have as a reference for if I need it later. I'm not sure what brand mine is, but they all come from the same factory probably :p

@@BitsOfInterest Yes, most likely! I still love mine, once I fixed that stupid O-ring, it works as good as new!

Thanks! :)

Thanks! First thing I'd do is buy a reasonable radio for +/- $100 and download an FPV simulator like DRL Sim so you can see how you like learning to fly. Remember smooth is fast :p You'd have to look up how to make it work as a controller on your PC, but it prepares you for what you'll be doing later also; fiddling with settings in hard to understand menus ;) Note that the type of radio you buy can lock you in to the transmitters you need later. Regarding the build, you'll need to decide what you want it to do. Do you want to go fast (100 mph+) for a few minutes or do you want to go smooth for 10-20 minutes? This will determine the motors/props/ESC/battery. You'll make the opposite choice depending on what you're going for; more aggressive prop angle, high KV motors, high Amp ESC, batteries with crazy discharge rates to go fast and the opposite to go long and smooth. Sub 250g (obviously) you have to make almost every choice based on how much weight it adds. I figured for 3 inch props you'll need 13## or 14## motors (the product page will tell you), I got 1407's low KV to go long and smooth. because it's low KV I didn't need a ridiculous ESC so I could get the cheaper all in one stacks with ESC and flight controller. I needed to go with the mini stacks (20mm hole spacing) because the regular ones were too heavy. A few grams here and there is going to make or break your build if you aim for sub 250g. For the assembly all you need is all the product information with diagrams right in front of you and a good soldering iron that allows you to set the temperature. I got an X-Tronic 3020 from Amazon that looked like the cheap but good option at the time. Edit: of course you'll need some extra wires and screws to put it all together, but hopefully that speaks for itself ;)

@@BitsOfInterest Wow! Thank you very much for such a quick and detailed reply. It helped me a lot! Can I contact you when I make a list of components to see if it's compatible with this drone?

I haven't looked at drone parts since I bought mine and made the video a few years ago, so I have no idea what's available today. Things change faster than in PC components 😜 I'd recommend hanging out in Joshua Bardwell's community on KZbin if you have questions about different parts. I watched a lot of his videos to make my own shopping list and the step by step videos on how to build and setup a DIY drone. If you're planning to 3D print the frame from the SketchUp file I shared in the description you can compare the measurements of the parts you want to buy to the file or make your own adjustments before you print it. I designed it for standard parts back then, but I don't know if/what changed over the last few years. PS first you'll need to watch some reviews for radio controllers and buy that 😉 You'll need one anyway, you can use it as a controller on your PC (as long as the one you pick supports that) and if you find learning to fly is not for you (it's not that easy) you didn't spend even more money on something you can't use 👍 Also it's better to have you first 100 crashes in a simulator than having to repair your drone all the time 😁

​ @BitsOfInterest Thank you for your reply! I would like to use the 3D-printed frame and buy all the parts, but I'm unsure which parts fit this drone. Of course, the total weight should be up to 250g. Does your drone fly well? What material do you recommend for this model? I have heard that PETG and PP are competitive in this area. Thanks again!

If the electronics have 20mm hole spacing and the motors 12mm you don't have to change anything and you can print it. I didn't experiment with different filaments; I use the PLA+ I have for everything I print :p Mine doesn't fly because the transmitter is broken and I haven't found time to fix it. Also I'm relearning how to fly in the simulator in Mode 2 instead of how I started with Mode 1. I also want to build an FPV wing one day (I tried a wing sim) and I realized Mode 2 is superior for that. A wing doesn't have a rudder so you can just set the throttle and steer the wing with your right stick.

Thanks! 👍

It did. You can also just get the tube if you already have a buttstock and riser.

You're welcome. If you're planning to buy something you may also have a look at the newer Avenge-X. It has a few features the original doesn't have, but it's more expensive. I made a video about upgrading my Avenger to get some of those features, though I can't change calibers like with the new one in case you're interested in doing that some day.

@@BitsOfInterest Thank you for the information. I'm wondering if the accuracy of your Avenger has stayed as good over time as it was when you adjusted it to it's best. I have an almost new break barrel. 22 I bought a month ago based of reviews about it's accuracy. Mine doesn't nearly live up to reports I'm getting while trying to find out how to make mine more accurate. I've done everything recommended including putting on a 3rd party scope. It's just not dependably accurate. I've watched videos high and low also on PCPs and one person says that accuracy can vary from the same rifle from time to time with no apparent cause while still using the same pellets that were previously accurate. I don't mind spending to get accuracy, but I'd be disappointed if the accuracy comes and goes away at just any various time with no apparent reason. Thank you.

The things that had most impact on accuracy for my break barrel (spring piston) were that the pellets I shot earlier were too light and were going too fast so I got heavier pellets. Also it kicked so much my scope kept getting loose. Don't get the cheapest scope rings (I tried them all, lol) get something that looks solid, maybe a single piece with 2 rings on it, and has a bunch of screws (4 per ring instead of 2). Also check the tightness every time you shoot and if you find good rings maybe use some loctite so the screws don't move. That said the Avenger doesn't kick the scope off and has been more accurate than my break barrel even on its worst days after I changed something, like different pellets or I tried the scope in a different spot on the rail. PS what I like about regulated PCPs like the Avenger is that you can dial it in for whatever pellet you want to shoot, you don't have to work around how it came out of the factory. If you don't mind some tinkering with settings it's perfect.

​@@BitsOfInterest Thank you for the reply and information. I do have a 1 piece mount and as you suggested and 4 screws on the rings The mounts don't look flimsy nor do they don't look monstrously heavy duty. I went so far as to buy an inch pound driver to be sure I had the screws tightened to factory specs and put the Locktite on ALL the scope screws, rings and all. The original scope had moving crosshairs whenever I moved my eye up/down/right/left so I bought a better scope that doesn't do that. Still, I get maybe 20 shots before my 1.5" groups grow larger. I'll try retightening the scope screws over and over. That's about all I haven't tries that you mentioned. Oh and I'm shooting 18.13 gr round nose pellets. I've tries several pellet brands and weights. Maybe I should try some pellets that are a little heavier still. I suspect I'll end up with a PCP even if I can find heavier pellets that give tighter groups. The best I'm getting ay 10 yards at the moment is 1.5" groups. That's disappointing. I especially liked that youm included showing how tough using a hand pump is to use. That makes me wonder if I should get a PCP pistil with a much smaller air chamber. They make a few pistols that have a stock brace available. Oh well. Thanks again.

Thank you so much for your kind comment! I have at least 5 projects that I'm working on right now in various stages of progress, so there will be more videos for sure ;) So far I've been practicing to make less boring videos that hopefully share something new. If I get 1000 subscribers I will buy a real camera; until now everything has been filmed on a Google Pixel 3a (2019) and a GoPro Hero 4 Session (2015) if there's a timelapse in the video.

That's what I was going for, getting the gasses all mixed up down there and that it gets as hot as it can so that the exhaust is clean 👍

Thanks! In the end whatever works for you is best 😉 I just thought it was cool that you can find one distance for all of them so you can have a target at 30 yards to set them up or check if everything is still ok if stuff is flying all over the place 😜👍

@@BitsOfInterest been good so far bro. More power to your channel 🤘

No worries, it's confusing. Different PCPs and pumps can have different fittings/probes. You just have to make sure the PCP and pump use the same kind (obviously male/female versions) or that you can screw an adapter on your pump.

Thanks! 👍 You may like my latest rocket stove video where I have the upgrades I mentioned at the end of this video 😉 kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2m3eoCsgdyLbK8

Good... keep it simple...greattings drom Lefkada island Greece

I don't have a chronograph, but based on pellet weight and observed trajectory it should be around 850 FPS for around 15gr. Whatever it is, it's shooting very stable and that's what I care most about ;)

impact penetration

If the melting point for aluminum is 1220F (660C) it won't survive anywhere in this rocket stove. You can put a barrel with an exhaust at the bottom over the core to use it as a heater. You can find a lot of videos from people that did that.

Oh, links are automatically blocked by KZbin, let me check if I can find your comment somewhere.

Its on my youtube channel

@@justtinkering6713 ok, thanks. The comment with a link isn't even visible to me. I used to be able to approve those...

It would be interesting to see how you did that 😉👍

www.amazon.com/HIRAM-Pressure-Filling-Stirrup-Stainless/dp/B07RJR24X3/

Thanks for the tips 👍 I can see how that door design could maybe improve efficiency, but mostly safety if you want to use the stove inside. That said, I think it may be more complicated to fabricate without welding. I'm only using it outside and I only burn hardwood, so I haven't had a problem with sparks coming out. Still something to consider though if you are in a very dry area and don't want to start a forest fire...

I suppose if you have something like a yurt that could work. They usually also have a hole to put a chimney through.

@@BitsOfInterest there is no yurt, it is more like a bungalow tent, 4 x 6 meter when unfolded from the transporter. it is a transporter based system where the tent can be folded and unfolded when setup it. I need to make a secial opening through for the pipe, otherwise I get a burning tent.

The exhaust is close to 800C/1500F and even hotter with the upgrades in later videos, so I would keep it outside your tent 😉

If you're going to use it daily during the heating season you'll probably have to replace them annually. They are worth the convenience of lighting the fire and added efficiency though. They are also pretty cheap and easy to make.

I have two follow up videos where I add the enhancements I mention at the end of this video. The vermiculite certainly holds up to the heat, but it's very brittle, so you need to toughen it with something like water glass so that you don't damage it when you put wood in. If you're making a heater you can use what you see here as the heater core and turn it into a rocket mass heater, meaning you'll funnel the exhaust through a brick or cob structure that can store some of that energy instead of sending it all out the flue 😉 Edit: You can think about it as building a box around the heater core that exhausts at the bottom so the heat is forced down and heats up the mass in the process.

Thanks 👍 It has everything I wanted to know before I built it 😉 I figured other people have the same questions 😁

Thanks! I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars on the bottle conversion because I don't really need it. Also a larger volume is harder to pump by hand, so I'll leave it like this. If I had a compressor maybe a bottle would be nice for more shots.

Yeah, as I was reading your comment I was thinking about his free replacement or money back guarantee on his website. Good thing he has that or this would be a deal breaker for a bunch of people. PS I don't attach anything to my forend and just use it as a grip. That's why I got the M-lock version, so it's more comfortable to hold than a bunch of Picatinny rails 😉

To me that sounds like a lot of work with hard to get materials, but I may be wrong 😜 Wouldn't it be easier to mix your own refractory cement and cast it in a mold? Refractory is much tougher than vermiculite board already. PS I did cover the areas with the highest abuse (burn chamber) in sodium silicate and that helped a lot with mechanical damage.

Thanks! 👍 As an average shooter I like that I'm the biggest variable, not the equipment 😉 I get decent results with cheap pellets (2 cents/piece) but you can pay 2-3x for sorted ones that are nearly identical if you shoot competitions. If you were ever to consider trying out airguns I'd highly suggest going for a regulated PCP so that you can set the pressure and it delivers the same power for dozens of shots until it falls off the regulator (pressure lower than you set it). PS did I mention that most smaller calibers are pretty quiet and don't upset your neighbors if you shoot in your backyard? If you were to go bigger and louder you can also buy moderators without any special paperwork 😁

search for Buck Rail. He is in the US and I don't know if he ships internationally.

@@BitsOfInterest tanks bro...

There are two ways to make it easier for you: get a compressor for around $300 from Amazon or get a pistol or carbine with a smaller tank so that it's quicker and easier to pump 😉👍

@@BitsOfInterest I was interested in the Hatsan Jet Carbine. I wonder if that tank is small enough to use the hand pump? its a 40cc tank. You think that would not be too bad?

@@MultiSkyman1 I have the Hatsan Jet 2 which has an 80cc tank instead of the 180cc on the Avenger and it's literally less than half the effort. I got it in .177 because it's less than half the power of the Avenger and I would like it to shoot relatively flat. I still get around 60 shots though with less effort 😉👍 I imagine the 40cc Hatsan Jet 1 is again less than half the effort and you'll probably get around 30 shots, or you can get the Jet 2 and pump it halfway 😜 when the pressure goes up it gets harder, so if you never go all the way it's easier. Edit: in other words, 3000 psi is 3000 psi in terms of how hard that one pump is. It's just that with a smaller tank you get there faster so you don't have to struggle as long to get there.

Thanks for the suggestions 👍. I have been trying S-hooks that are 1/8" or 3mm steel and they still bend open and fly off after a few shots 😂. I have some more ideas that I need to try. I'll make another video about these targets when I've found a fix...

I built this because I have a lot of sticks falling in my yard, so it's a cool and quick way to get rid of them. That or make wood chips out of them.

No, that's another advantage of the new Avenge-X if you want to be able to do that. That said, I don't want too many different pellets around and change my settings all the time, so I think it's perfect in .22. It shoots nice and flat at low power. Especially if you're hand pumping like I do.

You could do that, but I'm both lazy and impatient 😜 a 5-10 min break is sufficient to catch my breath usually.

And do it better and as cheap as possible I may add 😜

Peter van de Berg is Dutch as well, isn’t he ?

Thanks 👍 I didn't film that because it looks exactly like painting something. So you use a regular paint brush and probably some gloves because all this high temp stuff is full of warnings how it will kill you 😉 Just let it dry overnight and fire it up to cure it. I got the cheapest container on Amazon, but didn't pay close attention to the size, so I got a tiny 4oz bottle and I only had enough for the inside of the burn chamber. I could've spent a little more and gotten a big bottle to maybe coat some more boards.

@@BitsOfInterest Thank you for your reply. So just painting pure sodium silicate, does the trick? Have you experienced it with time? Decays, brittles?

@@thatcrazyguy1971 yeah, apparently that's all it needed. I should've painted that stuff on those boards as part of the initial build, but I didn't know any better at the time. I can't really speak to time, because I haven't fired it up in 6 or 7 months (too hot here) but with all those tests I did for the video and a few burns after I didn't see any new damage. It used to feel like poking a stick in dense wet sand when I gouged the boards. Now it feels and sounds like rock, tough and a gritty sound. I think you can hear it a little when I pull those pipes out somewhere before I do the test burns.

@@BitsOfInterest excellent! Thanks

Thanks! I had been waiting for 6 months for all three pieces to be in stock at the same time, so get it while you can 😉 They may have been available in between, but not when I checked occasionally. I didn't have to change my scope at all, the height of the cheek rest is the same. The standard pistol grip might get some getting used to for me because it's a little thinner. I got the M-lock forend and it feels great.

@@BitsOfInterest Oh really?I better jump on it tomorrow then,i cant stand this stock one.I also just got the notos and origin,i think he has some items for those as well..Enjoyed the video👍🏼

If it were up higher I'd need to put my scope up higher, so I don't mind the way it looks. It's more important to me that it works ;)

Definitely not too low

If that works for you, you should keep doing that. Personally I don't think holding under makes a lot of sense, so I'll go with the zero from the video ;)

@@BitsOfInterest when the closest zero is treated as a placeholder you never need to hold under. Remember too that when the rife’s bore is at an angle greater than horizontal the bullet path will cross line of sight twice. This is how it is possible to sight in at a close distance and be zeroed for a further distance. All of this suggests one zero might be adequate when shooting a relatively big target but if the target is small a close zero can be abandoned for greater target distance via elevation adjustment or holdover per dope card. The bottom line is just this any close distance zero when treated as a placeholder permits use of trajectory knowledge for the shooter to hit where aimed at any distance the bullet can get to nose-on.

I like that idea. After the aluminum wire I tried S-hooks that are about 1/8" or 3mm steel, they got bent anyway by the impact. There's a chance key rings get bent because they're so thin, but they could also make the targets spin freely, avoiding all that destruction 😜👍

I understand your point. You should be able to change the order when you are playing the playlist. It just doesn't save it for you like that. Edit: it looks like that's a mobile only feature. Oh KZbin... The reason I have the latest video first is to highlight to viewers that there is more on the topic they are interested in. Most people that have watched my videos have seen the oldest video with the build and even today most people watch that old video first. If I then have a playlist that starts with what they've already seen they may not look at it.

I did consider the Notos when I was getting the Hatsan Jet 2, but I really wanted a PCP pistol so if that stock could come off that could've worked. I also wanted it in .177 because these short barrels don't produce a lot of power so with .177 it stays relatively flat. That and I had a few thousand .177 pellets laying around 😉