I probably would have tried making my own bucking bar with a radius hole to put on the head and maybe clamp everything together to keep it from moving while hammering but it’s easy from my couch

I'm ready to see it rolling

The best truck was yours. 🤩

I know a trick on replacing skins just something I’ve done in the past just to stiffen up skins but no big deal your getting er fine

Anybody that brings you Coors, isn't a freind. Just sayin LOL... I like the idea of two channels. I've spent my life working on, and building cars. Street cars, race cars and show cars, and I've done most of the stuff that is car related on the YT numerous times so it's hard for me to get enthused about watching the car stuff. I was born and raised around trucks. My grandfather started teaching me how to drive his log truck when I was 9 years old, and I ended up driving truck for 40 years, but I never did the extensive rebuilding on them that you are doing, so it's a lot more interesting for me.

Mark, you realize it only takes Peterbilt 8 hours from start to finish to completely build a truck right ? LOL Sorry 🙂... It's taking shape. I can't believe how much work you have put into the old girl since you got it. It's going to be really sweet when it's all done. I love the look of bare aluminum panels that don't have any remnants of paint or body filler on them. When I was building race cars, I only painted the aluminum work that needed to be painted. I like the little inserts that go into the holes on the blind rivets. It looks so much nicer.

you have to much comfort in the shop, get back out in the snow

the thing with the rivet gun is tae walk it around the rivet head and smash it in place, DO NOT hold it in place steady, look at the black and white videos of construction and yer see how the did it with Bridges,Ships and Boilers. I know they are Glowing when hammered but the Hammering is the same procedure. but it seems the taped rivet works too. Also allthough the door skin is over lapped, when yer driving the water gets sprayed up and the pressure will push it up through the gap in the seam so aye, ye have tae redo that, trust me I build cabs for 2 years, 4 per day, even if yer think it's good the water test proofs yer wrong.

And ya probably still forgot the sealant didn’t ya? Edit: right after I posted this you realized you forgot the sealant. 😂

I might be a little late to watch this episode or read comments. But, any thought to buying interior black paint for the plastic parts to save some money if you can't find a particular part. Hard to say what the result may be. But, that stuff is out there. I repainted my Vet...albeit the same original color interior.

You’re getting so busy with all of these projects that you might have to quit your day job. Hahaha

I worked as a aircraft sheet metal mechanic for 10 years for Kaman Aerospace here in Connecticut and wanted to give you some helpful advice on riveting. First you don't want to use steel or Monel rivets with aluminum panels and no aluminum rivets with steel panels because of corrosion with the two dissimilar metals. Second we used 3X rivet guns with air regulators on them for the majority of the jobs we did along with green duct tape on the rivet sets to prevent the smiley faces on the rivet heads. And third we had pneumatic hand held C squeezes or alligator squeezes for rivets that were accessible for areas like your door frames . Hope this helps.

Did you do a video of you taking the old skins off?

I watched you become a much more humble man in this episode Mark. In the end though... She looks great. You have done it again! AND the REwork was in the same episode as the first work! You're a professional squisher now! I'll go see your new channel. Thanks for the great show Mark!

Inspiring project! I've used "Olympic Rivets" on repairs to the skin on my old Airstream trailer. They're like a pop rivet but they use a hand power drill-mounted shaver that trims the rivet's stem off flush with a rounded profile that matches and blends into the rivet head.. Easier to see than to explain.....

Just an uneducated question, can the fenders be replaced on a 379 ? I've heard there replaceable but not sure though.

Carlisle pa

Wicked truck!

Great videos as always Mark. Love seeing the progress. You are very thorough and I admire the attention to Detail.

Enjoyed.😊

are those pop rivits or screws holding on the cowl vents on either side ? if they are rivits ... new rivits w/ the plugs would look nice before paint

Ol2stroke whane Whe do it nice because whe do it twice 😂😂

Maybe you can get the bit sanded smooth?

Hey Mark to save you time with future buck rivets get yourself a rivet squeezer. You can have both door skins done in 5 mins

14mm is more like 9/16, 13mm is like 1/2.

'High School..... I mean College'. Nice save.

A piece of glove or shoe leather maybe beneficial ! Hey Mark ,learning by doing, hope u bought a few extras It will be fine !

Already subscribe to the second channel 🤘🤘 love the work Mark 👌

I rebuilt a western trailer once upon a time and I had to build my own cone but for the air hammer, one thing i learned was if you wrap the end of the air hammer bit in tape. (I used electrical tape) It helps with marring up the buck head and surrounding metal.

Hate me if you want but do some research. Dollars to donuts the rivet setting tool you're using is not the correct one thus squashing half-moon circles into the heads. The PACCAR head design (solid rivets and lock bolts as well) is called a "brazier head". The factory had large rivet-setting "squishers", essentially a cast C-clamp sort of thing that used a pneumatic ram to squeeze the rivet shaft. You can certainly do it this way with an air hammer and bucking bar (and yes, I have done it plenty) but it takes the right tools and lots of practice. As for your practice of laying filler down on bare aluminum that's not just asking for trouble but virtually guaranteeing it. Again, do some research. Everyone has a right to do whatever they want on their own project but when you're "teaching" or showing people how to do something, which you are, then you need to make more of an effort to do it correctly since people will inevitably copy what you're doing. A three-minute google search will turn up scads of information on how to properly prep aluminum for bodywork and subsequently paint. Aluminum is very tricky to deal with on a good day, especially old "dirty" aluminum like this. PACCAR went to greats lengths to phosphate coat aluminum parts (old, outdated technology now) and the paint still regularly fell off brand new trucks in sheets before they could even be sold. I have plenty of dealer-factory documentation to support this. Today's solution is really quite simple, ALL filler work should be done over top of epoxy and then sealed with epoxy, essentially trapping the filler between two layers of epoxy where it can't be affected by moisture or corrosion from the base metal.

Also Gettysburg is really close by and taking the time to see the museum, bus tour and Eisenhower farm is a must see.

I went to the ATHS show over the week end. There was a lot of nice stuff to see. A healthy person can easily walk the whole event. Thankfully it was not to hot and humid. Actually the golf cart thing is a little annoying. I know that some people can not get around well but people were pulling right up to trucks in their golf carts. Never got out to walk around a few trucks.

gottacomplete the look with a beard mark

Watch that you don’t leave smiley face on the outside when you buck the rivet.😊 Some times they use masking tape to protect the sheet metal your riveting. Put it over the rivet. Bucking bar. Don’t cut the bad rivet out, center punch it and drill it out. Aviation rivets are aluminum, Are the ones you using steal.?

Timer on the black Pete. Our Mack’s were pilgrims trucks and programmed to shit down every 3 min. Set the cruise just above idle and it won’t go dead

I enjoy the auction walk around. Some cool trucks u don’t see in central Louisiana that u show us

What if you heat up the backside of the rivet a little? Oh and might want to put a 379 bracket/brace on the Inside of the door , it adds support for the mirror brackets

Hey mark im a appreciate truck and coach mechanic I’ve done jobs like this on trailers using buck rivits and I’ve used a in line regulator and that’s what I have had work for me in the past. Big fan keep up the good work !

My dream truck

That COE is amazing 18 gears of Getting the job done🎉🎉🎉🎉

Great video, Thanks. Wanted to let you know, not to blow your air hammer unless it up against something, you are doing damage to the internals if it doesnt have something to hit.

The last time I riveted anything I had a buc that fit the head and compressed the back side of the rivet.

Cool

semi casual has the tool

Great Job and a lot of work but wort it looks Great and I think It's Time for about 12 to 14 Cold ones, lol Im Thirsty lol🍻🍺

Oilers are not doing so good.

Reminds me of high school 😅I mean college lol😂

When I went to aviation back in the day we did a lot of riveting, and my best advice is take a bit of masking tape and fold it over like double-sided and put one side on the river gun and want to hold the river and that does like a cushion to not mess up the head of the rivet

How do you keep the M-tips from vibrating out over time? Any type of adhesive or "squishing" required to make it permanent?

Look at the tool that Semi Casual uses.