Complex and cumbersome, many parts are unnecessary

Actually, i had to find a winder solution because a Bambu lab spool was too wide! As someone completely brand new to 3D printing, it was confusing trying to figure out why it wasn't working.

If your trimmer string is 1.65mm which is the typical size I encounter you'll want about 112% to 113% extrusion.

Almost perfect video, just finished assembly (with all the mistakes including not unscrewing back screws), then found this masterpiece and finished everytnig, and now I understand that for camera installation I need to disassemble left side once again, huh

Boyd’s sells the metal piece for the front bolt/magazine catch as well.

where is the file????

Ah... yes. Good info, dude. I just asked myself: Will there be any way to go, walk or run to get that warping done? And then: I cant show you as we shipped already. Ah, hooh. You may bee have taken a picture of the final product? The thing is you took us with your ideas and issues, but not with your success. You could dare to show the whole story..... then all your telling becomes a way more believable. Cheers

if you not brass nozzle you need more temp like +20 Celsius the same results ,you think print the right temperature but not

Man you make that look easy. I may have to try fusion

But you know the trick with the clear adhesive tape for parcels, for example. I only use it on the corners where there is a lot of warping. Then PP also holds well. Only set the print temperature bed to zero for the first layer.

What chokes and rounds do you use for Skeet Shooting?

I just updated Bambu Studio, and now there is a generic pp filament option.. Just scroll all the way down list of filaments and select add/remove filaments, and there you find that generic pp option among other new ones.

Just watched you video today. I was wondering what version of Firmware you were on? Thanks

for the adesion I've solved with a doblesided tape but with the distorsion of the base I'm still fighting. I'm using Treed filaments (PLENE4 and 5). So, do you think that the inox noozle makes the difference? Or the brim? Or the printer? What's has been the real jump to succed?

Same question as above. Does sucking the air directly from the enclosure affect your chamber temps and therefore somewhat defeat the purpose of the enclosure? Have you tested the effect of the exhaust fan on chamber temps?

User If you attach an inline fan to the enclosure and extract this air to the window, will the draft and air movement in the enclosure affect the prints?

I’m thinking it would be nice if you showed us how it worked in reality. It’s a great video, but it would be nice if you gave us a demo is that possible?

I have been able to 3d print successfully with.065" Rhino Tuff trimmer line. I have seen more tendency to warp in some cases. I store it inside the car which tends to get hot by solar heating.

my files look so different

I'm printing the worm gear right now

I'd 3d print the tube too so i don't have to buy one

German company "PP Print" makes print surfaces. You gotta have a business though.

Pretty cool Randy

version with bearing? very good your machine

What coincidence. I have that same model 1100 I inherited from my dad. I'm here looking at the Stoeger Condor Competition so I stop wearing on the 1100 using it for trap.

I'd like to get a P1S, but I hate the idea that everything goes through the cloud. I may end up buying a Creality K1C just to avoid that even though I'd rather have the P1S.

What screws did you use for the printed part that holds the fan?

Lame... no link to stls. Or a response that they arent available.

you saved me 500CAD :P

anyone else have problems with the thread

Those old Redfield Widefield scopes are such a great old scopes! 😎👍

why is it that u have to change the gcode? is is also when u just buy the p1s directly?

Now I get the context... So... is this your own product and its add or are you promoting your own product over that showed in the add?

This video is clearly stolen 👎

Congrats on being highlighted on the Bambu site!

Update: I bought a savage. 30 - 06. I used JB Weld plus lead weight in the upper portion of the stock. I used glaze coat in the butt plus I filled it with steel automotive tire weights. Glaze Coat sealed it up. Then, the remaining little bit I stuffed duct seal in. Bipod and scope included, total weight 11 pounds. It feels good and solid. I added foam for a cheek rest. Took it out shooting today. At 100 yards, I'm ok. I need a better target. Overall, I'm happy about the progress I've made. The recoil is not too bad. I'm 62. I do not do recoil at my age lol.

# 999 X 999

Im researching about PP and you seem like a nice guy but the video is too long. Needs to be more edited.

Looks great Randy. I can attest to its effectiveness on Yung’s boat. We can see the livescope pointer from anywhere on the boat. Before, you had to stand directly over it to see. Great design! Tim

I like your setup, it is similar to what I had in my head to setup in my printing room. I would need to use a window as well for exhaust and appreciate you not only doing the leg work but putting it all up here in an easy to digest format! I have a question though, will the window exhaust fan suck out too much air and affect print temperatures? I know that the P1S and X1 have active systems to compensate for this, and you seem to print with higher temp materials a lot, has the addition of the exhaust fan affected your prints due to more air circulating through the printing chamber?

🔥 *Promosm*

Thanks I'll make one.

You are a brilliant engineer, hat's off you. There are two other critical problems that your idea helps with. First incorrectly wound spools which cause a print to fail only because one line of filament got entangled with another above it. Second broken or cracked spools where you cannot put them on a roller and use only because the round corners are broken/ cracked. So you have two more strong reasons for making your project 😊 Thank You from India 🎉

This is the first thing I printed on my new P1S, the only problem I had was the Cam, (failed 3 times, then used Creality hi speed black and it printed perfectly) The other problem I had is when printing the middle part, the overhangs are pretty terrible, (the "eyes" at the top) even using your suggested printer settings. This printer does not like overhangs. I printed this using PLA, partly Bambu but mostly the black hi speed from creality. The Bambu P1S was set for standard speed. Maybe using carbon fiber or nylon would work better? or just have a machined aluminum model......I'd buy that! kzbin.infogaming/emoji/7ff574f2/emoji_u1f642.png

Thank you sir …very informative

Hello from France, thank you for this work, easy to print, easy to assemble and install, what more could you ask for. Great job

Great

Do you have your overhang fan threshold and fan speed flipped? I see 90% fan speed overhangs greater than 10%. Did you mean to set 10% fan speed for overhangs greater than 90%?

I built my savage axis myself. The end build was expensive at $2500 total but i was able to stretch that price out through 5 years of the build and in the end its amazing and out shoots my cousins $5000 rifle every time.

nice pet puma u got. lol