Did you manage this? if you mean the twist- it seems like I just did it by eye, if the cylinders start of perfectly straight and your pivot orientation is square (unlock icon, reset orientation, lock) then from a side view, twist until it looks like they will align, you can always duplicate it twice first and move those duplicates one to the top and one to the bottom and then use those as a kind of guide to line up with. Hope that helps.

@@RobotArmy3D ehy thanks for the reply! I still don't understand how you managed to make them match perfectly just by eye picking XD but i managed to overcome that problem after i found another similar tutorial in which they explain exactly this potential issue and how to manage to get the perfect alignment, by simply resizing vertically the primitive cylinder up till 2,0. This way it is granted that'll work :)

If by that, you mean vertex painting? It's so you can have full customization within the engine, you can have 100 copies of the same wall side by side and paint directly in UE till your heart's content so that not a single one looks like a repeat.

I haven't run into this problem, I couldn't help without seeing the file and trying it. Hope you managed to sort it.

@@RobotArmy3D I solved it, it was the focal shift. raising the focal shift really high made only 1 alpha appear

Also thats crazy you read and responded to a 4 year old video thats awesome

Happy that it was helpful, toolbag is a joy to use, not over complicated.

Thanks, very kind of you to say!

No problem! Happy to help

This is a high poly model to be baked down to a lower poly. If its the point count in zbrush that may be a concern causing large file sizes and slow operation, this technique can be used with any resolution of model, I just happened to be using quite a detailed one here, it could also be a very simple tube for sure.

Hah, np mate, glad it helped.

Thanks man, kind of you to say!

Thanks!

Cheers 🍻

Not sure how to help, it could be a mask that needs clearing? Hope you managed to sort it.

I can only think that maybe there are masks that need clearing, parts of the model that are still hidden, active recording layers(maybe) or there is no higher subdivision levels to delete- select a lower subdivision level first.

@@RobotArmy3D yes, I do everything as shown, first I delete the lower level (it is active). And the higher one is not activated. Maybe they really don't exist. Thanks for the reply anyway🤝

Thanks 😊

Cheers! A lot of my videos have that process in, this one (stylised barrel) has it at around the 1:09:00 mark and other videos such as this older pillar one has quite a bit on it at about 35 mins in- kzbin.info/www/bejne/rImvnXlof85sa8Usi=qhWhV5u6fruwjk7s Hope that helps.

Great to hear!

Thanks 😊

Did you figure this out? black blocks is a hard one to figure out without taking a look at the files. It could be that you have duplicated faces. Find where it is on your low and high poly and see if there is anything odd. You might want to delete and recreate those faces on your low poly, check there is no overlapping UV islands there also. hope that helps.

@@RobotArmy3D Ok👌 ，thank you for your reply. I'll study it again. Maybe I'm too shallow. I should understand why if I study deeply.

Glad you enjoyed it! 👌

This is rendered in Marmoset Toolbag, there are no special stylised settings, just a couple of lights, and bright coloured background. It still has realistic lighting and shadows, the same result should be gotten from any renderer, its the shape of the asset and the textures that make it look stylised.

@@RobotArmy3D oh thank you very much..

They are combined, adding two materials to the mesh in maya, one for the body and one for the decals will give you two material slots in UE letting you put specific decal material to that part of your asset. There is also a way if doing this using two UV sets rather than floating meshes.

@@RobotArmy3D thank you for clearing that out. I experimented on that myself, and ruled out that you couldnt have had left it un-combined. wouldnt have made any sense. but im on my way of finishing my own take on the Arasaka Tower in cyberpunk 2077 thanks to this. and its in VR, so i have to keep it as cheap as possible, hence the question. thanx for verifying it.

Np, good luck with your project!

Well, the high poly model usually wont have any UV's its the UV's of the low poly that you want. Baking is essentially "painting" the high poly details on to a low poly model. If you have an unwrapped high poly, then yes you can paint on it, but then transferring those painted details back down on to a low poly would be difficult and also probably will not give you perfect results.

Thanks. Yes, absolutely I used this technique recently. I often use my other more simple method of just modelling the tiles in Maya first before moving to painter.(i have another tutorial for that) I would suggest learning substance designer, though. Having the ability to create something multiple ways will allow you decide on how to approach a job the best way. Sometimes you really just want a specific sculpted look, and if you know how to sculpt well in zbrush, then that might be be the fastest/easiest option. But sometimes you need more flexibility and variation and Substance Designer may become the best choice for that. And most of all its what you find to be the most enjoyable pipeline.

@@RobotArmy3D nice one thanks. I actually work in the industry, but do only hard surface and realistic. Your videos are brilliant mate, thanks for the advice above too.

@@DeputyChiefWhip Oh nice, I used to do similair before moving into games, there's not really much difference. I would say game modeling is easier if anything, normal maps are much easier to work with than displacement maps. Thanks for the kind words!

@@RobotArmy3D Just out of interest, I did this tutorial, the array mesh is a bit of a faff isn't it, no wonder you opt for modelling it first in Maya then just import in to ZB, the transpose tool is simply horrible at placing stuff.

Yeah, I cant say its necessarily the best way but as Maya is the program I'm working in like 90% of the time it just feels easier to do as much as i can in it; or simple block things things out so i have a good starting point. Often the "best" techniques neglects to take into account what you are most comfortable or proficient at.

You can also use the Alpha channel of the RGBA - and you can also have a base texture. So 5(ish) layers should be achievable with this technique.

Glad you enjoyed it! 👌

Thank you, not sure what could be the issue here, it should split apart every mesh that is an "island" so not continuous on to the next piece. You could try auto-poly group in the polygroup menu, this polygroups the mesh in the same way as above, if it all stays one colour when you view the poly groups then it must be one mesh somehow, in this case, go back to maya and see if you can separate it, once separated, select all and export as an fbx, or export each piece individually. I hope that helps

Sorry for the slow reply, you should be able to print this model as is, its already got good geo for printing, you will just have to set up your wall thickness and such.

Hi, yes this was a bit of an old tool, I use mayas in-built game exporter now, file>game exporter- it has every setting you need to do the same thing. Once you are happy with the settings you can save them as a preset.

@@RobotArmy3D Thanks didn't know it existed. Great content...

Great to hear!

Glad I could help! 😂

<3

I don't see why not.

The same technique, but add the other channels for R G B and also the Alpha.