Wait until you find MY SECRET THIRD CHANNEL (which doesn't exist) (...or maybe I just want you to think that)

@FreestyleTricktips dang lol I'll have to look and if I can't find it I'll have to surrender to Ai to do the search for my

haha, the good ol' shoe goo days. I loved those shoes and wanted to keep them going as long as possible!

The good news is that the Racetrack kingpins are standard hex head ones, so it's fairly easy to knock them out and replace them with a standard 2" kingpin. That used to be standard practice when I was still using them.

Funny, I was literally talking to Seismic about this not long ago. Apparently the issue with wheels in the low-90s is that it's a tough urethane to work; most harder wheels are cast at larger sizes and machined down (which is why you usually get those "grooves" on the wheel when they're brand new). Low-90 durometers are tough to lathe and need to be frozen first. That's why you typically get a big gap between the upper 80s (say 88a) and the 95a and up durometers. The best "small and soft" option from Seismic is probably the Oscar - they intended it as a "filmer wheel" (hence the name) and is a fair bit softer than 90a, but should still work: seismicskate.com/product/54mm-57mm-oscar-wheels/ As far as "slideability"... that's going to depend on the wheel formula, and usually, there's a tradeoff. Powell's Dragons and Seismic's Elixir are both geared towards sliding, and achieve this through the use of a chemical additive to the urethane, but as a result of prioritising slideability, they're also notably slower than the same wheel at the same durometer with a different formula. Seismic's Defcon (the formula used in the Oscars) is designed for speed, and loses some grip compared to their other formulas, but is nothing like as slick as the Dragons or Elixir. I think it's a good middle ground; I'd rather go fast and force a slide than be forced to go slowly and have something slide when I'm not expecting it!

Hey, anything you roll away from is a win. And considering a lot of people do these and stop dead on the landing, if you actually came out of it with some momentum, you're really winning.

I actually quite like a square edged wheel now - they chunk a bit more and definitely sound louder, but they do give you good traction in a turn.

If they take standard 608ZZ bearings, they should fit. Like the Fames, you'll probably need a smaller spacer than the 8x10mm skateboard standard, and you'll almost certainly want a big stack of washers behind the wheel to push them out towards the end of the axle, but they should work. The bigger question is... why? Do those wheels do something that current skateboard wheels do not?

@@FreestyleTricktips I roller skate and have a 7.75 and 8 skateboard so I was curious if I could hack together a freestyle setup with them. None of my skateboard wheels cover the axel. The why is basically cuz I already have the roller skate wheels

Honestly, neither of those will ever really be a "freestyle setup". It's what we all had to make do with once upon a time, but a freestyle setup will have mellower kicktails, lower (or no) concave, and a much shorter wheelbase. If you've already got some gear lying around, it's better than nothing, but if you can, I do recommend at least having a go on a proper freestyle setup at some point. It makes a huge difference.

I think Rollerbones have a similar sort of market position as Bones Reds - they're not good by any means, but they're commonly accessible and have a positive reputation that really is a hang over from when they were the only decent product in their sector. There's a huge amount of better alternatives for both now (even if people don't want to hear or believe that).

@ what bearings do you think are better than the bones reds?

Pretty much anything from a specialist bearing brand nowadays is better than Reds. I'm partial to Synopsis Blue Rays, but Seismic's new Fullspin line promises to be fantastic (their old Tekton bearings were some of the best I'd ever skated), and a lot of people here in the UK swear by Zealous. I also quite like Abec11's Biltins, but they won't fit into a set of rollerskate wheels due to the integrated half-spacer.

@ what makes the bearings you’ve suggested better?

Faster, smoother, more resilient, and in some cases, cheaper. I once did a side-by-side test with a brand new set of Bones Reds and a brand new set of Synopsis Blue Rays. Two boards, exactly the same wheels, different bearings. The Bones Reds are noticeably more sluggish when you're pushing. People just don't realise because your brain does a weirdly good job of normalising these things while you ride around on a board.

If this is true, I'd be very curious to know what they're using that makes them *smell* so Chinese. It's something that I've only ever found on Chinese wheels before, so I assume it must be the chemical they're adding to the formula that makes Dragon urethane so slippery that is outgassing and making that smell. Either way, the real test will be if Trump's anti-China tarriffs come into play in the next year... that's going to mess with a lot of stuff in the skateboard industry.

I think we're in a very similar boat. Everything you've said matches with my experience of the Clouds, Formula Fours, and Dragons (and you're also the only other person I've met who recognises how weirdly slow that urethane is!). And - genuinely - I've not found a single better wheel than the 95a Axon for all-round use. There are, of course, a couple of caveats. First, the 95a Axons are much "stickier" than the Dragons are - but then, so is everything. They're not as gummy as the clouds are, but if you're not used to a 95a urethane, you might find it a bit weird to get them sideways at first. However, when I'm going fast across town or around a skatepark, it's nice knowing they're not going to suddenly lose traction in a hard carve like the Dragons do. Second, the Axons are wiiiiiiiide. The 58mm Nano Cubics give you 2.45mm of urethane past the axle nut; the Axons give you 5.85mm of urethane past the nut. That's a lot of extra width, and I generally recommend you look for a truck with an axle length 0.35-0.4" shorter than the intended width of your deck to accommodate this. If you can get past those two "issues", then honestly, you'll probably love the Axons. I'm not sure who's carrying them in Australia - you should contact Flatlandia (flatlandia.org/shop/), as I'm sure they'll know where to go. Alternatively, I can ship them from Offset (offsetskatesupply.co.uk/product/seismic-axon/), and that might work out cheaper than getting them directly from Seismic in the US (seismicskate.com/product/55mm-axon-wheels/).

Thanks! It's hard finding information about this online, and frustrating forking out money and time on equipment without experience. I'll take you up on that. I'll order the 95a's at some point through offset skate supply. It's a shame, they're new trucks and you're definitely right about the dimensions working with a freestyle setup. Another opportunity to look into skate equipment!

@@taylaknott I can understand that. One of the reasons I started Offset (aside from making hard-to-find product more accessible) was the fact that skate shops and brands generally don't provide anything like enough information - and even if they do, there's no guarantee they'll get it right. For instance, Ace Trucks STILL say the Ace 11 has a 7.0" axle, and major skate shops are still regurgitating that without question. (They actually have a 7.25" axle. Pretty big difference.) Similarly, I'm thinking of bring Venom bushings in at Offset, and even the distributor doesn't have the physical dimensions of the bushings on file. How unhelpful is that? Bushing sizes vary wildly, and making sure you've got the right ones for your trucks is nigh-impossible at 99% of skate shops. It's a joke.

Exactly! I appreciated the reliable measurement chart on the offset website when I was considering buying a new set of Aces. Absurd that it isn't the standard broadcasted chart. I ended up going with film trucks from your review, I'll write a review of my own once they've arrived. Thanks for your help!

@@taylaknott ah, glad to hear someone else has jumped on some Films! I absolutely love those things and it seemed for a long time like people were passing over them just because they were some weird new Euro upstart, but they're so good. I love the feel of carving around on a set of Films - they're such a good truck.

There's no reason they shouldn't. The edges are quite square and sharp, so there's definitely better options for sliding, but if you wanted to get them sideways, they would definitely get there.

@@FreestyleTricktips thanks for your answering. Because clear wheels are kinda disbelievable

I haven't spoken to Andy for a few years now. We've not crossed paths since 2018; he doesn't do any freestyle events outside of Canada. I don't think he ever has actually, now I think about it. Even when we saw each other in Japan, he wasn't competing - he just happened to be there.

@@FreestyleTricktips Thanks. I realize, you're not journalist and this video is opinion piece - but I just felt a little uneasy about your "deep suspection" about country of origin. So I wanted to know, if you made some steps for finding it - writing to Andy, Powell etc..

Yeah, it's a huge difference. Also recommended: risers and/or taller trucks and stiffer bushings. Low and wobbly setups are a nightmare for rail tricks!

@@FreestyleTricktips lol my trucks are 47mm tall and I ride 45mm wheels eventually I'll have to get a freestyle skateboard

There's a dozen other wheels I'd recommend over these. Where are you based? Happy to point you somewhere that you can get something more suitable for less money.

@FreestyleTricktips I'm based in Ireland I'm been trying to find offset wheels here but no luck

@@Justin-pq6bo Yeah, there's not a lot of options on this side of the pond. I run the only shop specialising in freestyle stuff in the UK (www.offsetskatesupply.co.uk), but post-Brexit you might be better off having a look across the pond at Decomposed's offerings (www.decomposedskateboards.com/).

@@FreestyleTricktips thank you for your help

@@Justin-pq6bo No worries. I hope you find something that works for you!

I'm very surprised by this. I used to love Darkstar's decks back in 2001, but from what I've seen, they're basically just doing bottom-end stuff for children and beginners now?

Oh, god. I'd not even thought about what Dragon urethane + water would do. These were already sliding out on dry and grippy asphalt - a small amount of drizzle and you might as well be on ice.

Valid question. I'm going to pass it on to my secretary who'll look at my calendar and get back to you. (I don't have a secretary.)

Glad I could help. I think this is one of those tricks that a lot of people make the same basic mistakes on, though.

This is the thing: if you've never used any actual freestyle wheels, these will seem great. Like I said in the video, in the early 2000s, we would have killed for these! But in 2024, there's a lot better options available for a lot less money.

@@FreestyleTricktips yes that is true, my Walmart skateboard was the greatest thing ever until I got a REAL skateboard 😂. I'm genuinely interested in freestyle, but also street, what wheel would you know to take on both sides?

@@K_spawn Assuming you're looking for a skinnier wheel, have a look at some of Decomposed's options: www.decomposedskateboards.com/wheels The Mantis wheels aren't exactly top-class urethane, but they're a lot cheaper and more useable than the Nano Cubics are. That'd be my recommendation for people who don't want a "proper" freestyle wheel like Seismic or Mode's offerings.

@@FreestyleTricktips thank you so much! I really though nano was doing something new by covering the axle, but the mantis wheel do so too! The red ones are sick! I'll be ordering them this week

Wow! All these wheels even have bearings depth measurement!

That's precisely the case. No one would seriously try doing BMX on a folding commuter bike; similarly, no one would do flatland BMX on a downhill mountain bike. Getting the right tools for the terrain is very important.

I am, apparently, a glutton for punishment. I did manage to get one person to try some Axons, though. And he loved them. So that's a win.

Oh, that sweet, sweet engagement. Yummy.

So I double checked the packaging of the remaining Nano Cubics I have in stock, and you're right: those are listed as made in USA. But something is DEFINITELY off with these. As I said in the video, I've got a pretty good nose for Chinese urethane - it has a very distinct smell as something outgasses from it. Similarly, the look and finish is unique, too. This is how I knew Never Enough's Felines were made in China, for instance - they looked and smelt a lot like these Nano Cubics. I seem to remember Waltz did a batch in China as well (which, considering Osterman's close working relationship with Christian Heise at Never Enough, wouldn't surprise me). And while there's nothing inherently wrong with Chinese manufacturing, it does tend to be the case that American companies go there to get a cheaper product... or, if we're being really cynical, to do things that they're not legally allowed to do in the US due to environmental laws. But how would Powell put "Made in the USA" on the packaging? Well, either that's the truth (possible), they're just reusing their standard labels and hope no one will catch them out (unlikely, considering the size of the company), or they're using the way "country of origin" legislation works to make these *technically* made in the USA, even if they're poured in China. This, incidentally, is how Independent operated for a LONG time - all their parts were cast in China, then shipped to the US for final assembly so they could still say "Made in the USA". According to international law, as long as 50% of the final retail value comes in the final assembly step, you can claim the product is made where the assembly happens, *not* where the consitutent parts are made. It happens a lot more than you think, and is really easy to do. Again, I can't prove this. But it's not impossible, and it would explain why these look, feel, and smell like countless other Chinese wheels I've handled in the last ten years.

Oh, as for the flatspot issue: I'm not sure that Dragon formula is inherently more flatspot-resistant than some other urethanes, and I wouldn't cite that as a reason to use them, personally. Also, I'm not sure what's special about basketball courts in the US to create flatspots - that seems like an odd thing to mention. That said, what I tend to find is that anything coming out of Creative Urethane (Momentum, most Decomposed, most Waltz until recently, Speedlab/Moonshine, Mode, Sk8kings) *will* flatspot a lot faster and harder than anything coming out of AEND (Seismic, ABEC11, Dogtown). In fact, I've never put a single flatspot in any Seismic wheel in ~14 years of using them, but I turned a set of Sk8kings Crown Jewels into cubes within one session back in 2006. I've since seen Waltz and Momentum wheels that look basically the same. You can resist this effect slightly by increasing ride surface (skinny wheels = easier flatspots), but Creative's always had this issue.

The problem with this idea is that it's temporary at best. Coconut wheelies are so abrasive that they reshape the outer edge of the wheel very quickly. It doesn't matter what the shape starts as - it'll be coconut-wheelie-shaped in no time. That's why I've always prioritised thick outer edges - that's the only way to ensure the wheel lasts a long time. Rounded edges just grind off to sharp corners.

@@FreestyleTricktips alright, I’m still working on the idea though

That is very much the opposite of what I've seen with both these and the 93a Dragons. Hell, you can see how rough this surface is, and they're still sluggish as all hell. As I said in the video, the best test is always to test them side-by-side with a better wheel with matching bearings. There's a lot of good softer wheels now - I'm glad we're finally getting away from the "99a or 101a are your only options" era - and these are genuinely some of the slowest out there.

They're INCREDIBLY slippery. I know a couple of guys in London who tried using the softer Dragon wheels for street and ditched them quite quickly. The urethane breaks into a slide far too unpredictably on a lot of surfaces.

@@FreestyleTricktips interesting! Thanks for the additional info. I’m gonna have to try dragon formula for myself I reckon. Pretty niche use case, even for street. Nothing wrong with having a second setup for those spots.

Jove

@@vorpalblades , maybe he's invoking Joe Humeres ;)

Andy himself said that they are designed for Freestyle AND street. He even said himself that they are for rail stands and coconut wheelies as well as slappys.

@@MikeArpeggio345 Thanks for pointing that out. And as I discussed in the video, if you're buying them specifically for that reason (i.e. rail and coconut wheelies), you're throwing money away. There's far better options out there.

@FreestyleTricktips I have waltz wheels and these wheels. Honestly, they're just fine for freestyle.