@@WildernessMedic the first set of knots “are” slip knots, these are set in as “place holders”. It allows you to have an accurate starting point. Once you start using the “Flying Dutchman Technique”, you should tie in with a degree of care, because they “are” slip knots. Once you have the first row of standard knots, you are good to go. Understand also, you must use “Bonded” twine, this causes the knot to hold, when “non-bonded” will slip with every knot no mater how you tie a knot. I hope this helps. Thanks for taking the time to learn this process. It’s almost a dead art, but so valuable and useful to know.

@@equipyourselflifeskills5802 Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm doing well with the regular knots, even having moved on to monofilament. For some reason I just couldn't accept the first row slipping. I don't remember doing that on any of my other nets, but this is my first expanding circular one.

@@user-fu4eb6pn1u congratulations on your success! To your question, I have never bothered to figure out what it would be. The way I see it, no mater the count, they all have to be tied to desired net length. I know that is not very helpful but I just work on them as needed.

Thanks for the reply. My dad tried to teach me when I was in middle school but I didn’t take to it. I have since showed him some of your ways of making it. We are in the low country of South Carolina and he was taught by his father. His way was to make a triangle and then stitch it up with a seam. He also had a did a dip that was 1:1 turpentine to marine oil based varnish, it works pretty well. I have used that dip on the bonded nylon. I have learned you use the latex professional did, Does the spider wire fishing line nets take dips pretty well?

@@user-fu4eb6pn1u I don’t know if they would. Remember, spider wire is fishing line so I don’t know how well that would work out in a net form.

@@davidmcduffie1398 18 hangings seems really short for a nice flat start. 36 hangings optimizes performance and prevents excess twine across the entire net as it lays flat. I am glad you still remember what you have to do to make them. One of the men that were my mentors for making nets lives in Rock Port, if he is still alive. Thanks for watching and letting me know how things are going for you in your net making.

@@hns4971 you can use a quality varnish type wood finish and thin it out with the manufacturers recommended thinning product. I would suggest a 50/50 mix. Dip the net and allow it to dry a small amount (a few hours), then lay it out flat to complete the drying process of the product. What ever product you use should be good for exterior or floor products for durability. Do not allow it to get too thick. You will notice that it will be a little stiff, but, as you use it will become more limber after a few casts. Thanks for watching and I am very pleased that you have discovered a skill that can produce food or bait for food.

@equipyourselflifeskills5802 thank you for sharing your knowledge.I appreciate it!I will try wood varnish for yacht deck, but i am going to make a small piece of net and dip it first to see the results.

@@zacharylennard7593 I truly believe you will have lots of problems with slipping unless you use a different knot process.

@@hns4971 you would load the twine on your needle doubled. When doing this, take extra time tying each mesh in to insure both lines are appropriately the same on length as you draw down the tension to secure the knot. Your tension becomes more important.

@@equipyourselflifeskills5802 Sorry for misunderstanding , i mean how do you connect them if you run out of double line on your needle.How do you continue?

@@hns4971 this may be hard to explain, but the way I do it is, I fill the needle with a single line until it is full. I then remove all the line and bring the two ends together. Measure the length so I know how far to string it out so when doubled it will fill the needle without waste. I then tie a knot in the loose ends and start tying in using the before used method. This causes you to be using three lines verses two. Use caution as you do this because a good even tension is impotent to keep the same tension on all three lines. Once you have finished that needle, fill it again with double twine and use a girth hitch to join the lines and continue. When adding in a new needle of twine only requires two knots before cutting away the small section of the twine that ended the previous needle. I hope this explanation is understandable. Thanks for clarifying your question.

@@equipyourselflifeskills5802 Sorry for my delayed response. So, if I understand correctly, you create a loop by tying a knot at the loose ends, and then you connect it to the starting loop on the needle. You join these two loops using a girth hitch.

@@samzuniga607 second loop? Or the start of the second round?

@@hereunderduress now to get the supplies and give it a try, you may become hooked on making nets…….👍🏼

@@arnoldsookhoo9792 36 knots, once you have made 36 knots you will tie in your next knot on the hanging formed by your first two knots. Thanks for watching!

@@equipyourselflifeskills5802 thank you very much for your response! I am currently on the row where I am adding spacers every 7 knots

@@arnoldsookhoo9792 that is great, your moving right along. Stay with it, it will be long and boring to a degree but you will have a master class net once you’re done. It will last a lifetime if taken care of. Make sure you dip it before using it. If you can’t find “Net dip” you can use poly varnish that is slightly diluted. Hope this helps.

@@equipyourselflifeskills5802 thank you very much.

@@equipyourselflifeskills5802 update, currently on row with spacers every 12 mesh

@@mikemcpeak777 no, that price is way out of line. Normally you can find them for less the $5 each. I think there is a place in Washington state that is selling them now. Can’t remember the name of the place. I normally buy a bunch when I find someone selling them. And yes, for some reason Sailrite doesn’t seem to be carrying them now. Thanks for watching. Good luck.

@@DancingFlnger Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed it. If you master the skill, please mentor others. This is why I put it out in the public so this technique will never die. Thanks again.

@@michaeladamstone2911 it’s not so complicated once you get your head wrapped around the basic principles. If I were to make a cast net from products such as you describe, I would cut the netting in a long taper (pizza style slices) and then sew the panels together. I have other videos that may help you understand what you would need to do. Thanks for watching the vids.

@@pgsibilo I made five for a commercial bait shop in Matagorda Texas. The shop was impressed with the quality and strength and they are still in daily use for extracting shrimp and bait fish for their customers. Thanks for watching.

@@equipyourselflifeskills5802 That is cool, I recommend you start a small-scale business with this net design.

@@bretdurisin6525 not a problem, turn your speakers off as you watch, that may help you. Thanks for watching.

No, I make them for my use and my family. When I learned the skill I made them to sell for a cash flow when it was illegal for me to work as minor child and young teen. I also mowed grass. The video is for you to learn how to make them in order to expand your Knowledge, Skills and Ability for a more fulfilling life. A do it yourself life skill.

It takes about one pound of twine to complete a 6 foot net with a 3/4” mesh…… that is very small mesh. You can use braid if you like. The twine I recommend is designed for this type of net, braided fishing line is designed or “fishing” (rod and real use). Other braided nylon has a deferent net application, such in the case of a cast net, the brail lines (drawstrings). All I can say is do as you like, I have nets that I made and that are clearly 50 years old that I have taken care of (repaired and dipped every few years) and I still use them. Let me know how your nets come out with braid.

I am unsure what the weight is per foot. My guess is that a 4’ radius net is about 6 pounds total. The mesh size is normally the weight factor. If you make a large mesh the weights will be spaced out much further and the opposite for a fine mesh. Sorry I can’t get real specific because “it depends on many factors”.

Not end to end but sideways so you are filling the opposite side each turn. It should spin in your hand.

The mold was about $160.00 USD, the mold drops 12 sinkers, they are 5/8” diameter with a 5mm rod for the hole. I ordered it off Etsy from Aleksander Velimirovic from Novi Sad, Serbia 🇷🇸. He should already had the CAD set up to make you a quick mold. Let him know I sent you. Great guy to work with.

This is my biggest problem