Thanks, I now know here it goes. Quick question though, if I’m swapping intakes from a newer truck & it’s doesn’t have that male end coming out of the intake, do I drill & install a bar fitting?

Is this the same as an NVG246?

Can you give us Steve's contact info please 😂

You’re funny🤣🤣🤣🤣 but your video helped me!!!! Ty

Does the length of the wire matter?

This video was uh amazing. Really helped me through uh , the process ! 💯👍

that motor sounds weak af

Is this the same thing as a fuel injection service?

I was so worried about marking the driveshaft and messing something up, then I got to thinking. They aren't balanced on the vehicle. so why does orientation matter? Awesome vid, straight to the point. Didn't need to skip around to see what to do.

And that fucking fly 😂

You’re awesome 👍👍👍

Holy ShYt, I’ll have to try it. I hate F_cking fly’s, too.

Wat size screws fit

Great vid thanks

Thanks for the clear side view video. I think I’m going to start out trying to use a multi-tool. I’m not removing the tank, my strap broke.

I found the oil leak on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine last night, the rear part of the right hand side valve rocker cover seal was leaking oil even after I replaced the seals about 6 weeks ago. I pulled the valve rocker cover off to check for any crap which may have got underneath the seal & in between the cylinder head & valve rocker cover seal As well as for any niicks & scratches, there was none. I will run the engine for a week or so to check because it was leaking oil onto the starter motor, if it keeps leaking then I will replace the seals albeit only on the right hand side !

I have 2 O ring kits which have a 14mm O ring with a 2.5 mm thickness which is a match for this o ring :- These are the o-rings that go on both the Camshaft Position Sensor AND the Crankshaft Position Sensor. They are the BUNA Medium hard 113 o-rings with . 549"(9/16")ID and . 755"(3/4") OD. You probably need to lever the sensor out with a pry bar,my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine was leaking oil the same & I replaced the valve rocker cover seals including the bolt grommets almost 6 years ago when I did a hydraulic lifter replacement,I fitted aftermarket LS7 V8 hydraulic lifters. I replaced the valve rocker cover seals &; grommets 2 months ago as well because they leaked oil again & oil was dripping onto the bell housing & leaking onto the starter motor & possibly getting into the starter motor which I think was spraying oil onto the power steering rack & all over the engine. Yes, replace.the bolt grommets because they shrink & oil gets past them therefore making an oily mess all over the engine,I will keep an eye on the crankshaft position sensor O ring before replacing it because I think that oil which leaked down from the top of the engine got into the starter motor. My 5.7 litre engine has done about 250,000 miles (over 400,000 kilometres) as well !

Eight (8) years later, your video stood the test of time. Cheers!

Just remove the two fuel line connectors on the front of the tank and the bottom hose that connects to plastic black box beside tank in front instead of what he did by removing the entire gas lines from clip alongside tank from back to front. There's two connectors in front that prevent you from having to do all of that. .

Hey Rick, my jack has been leaking oil and now blowing bubbles from the screw that you use to raise and lower the jack. Do you know if there is an o-ring that can be replaced in there?

I’m sold when you said “sure as shit” 😂 I’m going to go buy it now

You're hilarious! LOL🤣

Thank you for this.

What size tank is that

Your skill level is top shelf and you sound just like me when I'm wrenchin. We're pretty much cousins now ;) Good job

Could also use a mini belt sander to grind away the head of the bolt which I'll be doing soon

Quality content. Thanks for uploading.

Doing an 03 Yukon Denali XL, the lines to the rear A/C are bad. Replacing all the lines up front to lines meant for a pickup truck. Front air conditioning is better than none. It's been about 8 years since I've done A/C work. I got my certification in the 90s but a little refresher class always helps.

Thank you!!!

your pitman arm may be out

All that bullshit and u didnt toss knocks with new harnesses. Come on guy . Research research research .. lol

What if it's stuck

If there is a crack on that rubber boot how does this affect the truck itself?

Thank you Sir ... this got me 90% of the way there ... I had to use a 15" adjustable crescent wrench to walk the ring on with my body weight, but the job is done 😂

Great Video! Thx from Germany!

Anyone know the torque specs for the clutch fork pivot pins? Thanks!

I was reading that the fan resistor sometimes goes out when the fan motor is getting old, and drawing too much current.

Of 2002 tahoe

Do you have to have a lift to take out tank

I love a good “that’s what she said”

What year ??

Has anyone asked how long this rebuild held up?

Use a multi tool with a metal cutting blade...$13.99 harbor freight

When turning on you AC to max and max air flow, are you also doing the same, max everything on the back passenger half also?

Funny censorship

Why not use Nickle Copper line and rout it to an easier path to the back. You can bend Nicop by hand without kinking the line. It sure seems it would be easier than snaking it past all those wires and obstacles to get it to the rear connection. Why even take out the old line just route around it.

Thank you!!!

after being told by 2-3 shops the steering rack was blown, dealer quoting a $2500 job, driving 11K miles and for the last year just adding 3 oz of STP 'stop leak' steering fluid (high mileage) every 7-10 days whenever steering started whirring (in warmer seasons, winter much less often), i finally googled '06 honda accord poor man's steering rack leak fix' and landed on a guy in a honda forum saying ATP AT-200 did the trick. i did a new search on that, saw 5 youtube mechanics saying same and demonstrating it and was game to try my luck. so, i got a $13 bottle poured 3-4oz of ATP AT-205 and cant recall if i let it sit overnight or drove off for some short nearby driving (my usual), but after 5 days i put fresh cardboard under car to monitor it and the leak slowed-up from 3 drips to 2 and 1 then stopped in 10 days, added another 3-4oz for good measure at first hint of a whir. dont know how long it'll hold, but the dripping stopped. what next? do i now switch back to regular steering fluid? presumably the good grade stuff (not the cheap leak fixer stuff). also, i can see oil buildup has sprayed somehow from the bottom of the SF reservoir onto everything below so now i need to know whether i should get a bottle of degreaser with spray nozzle (safer/gentler on rubber) that i can try to spray what i can reach or ask a shop to do it. i feel like i asked a mechanic once and they said they dont do that. does that sound right?

Can I leave the cv axle off and drive the Tahoe like that

#TeamTicklyAnusFTW