@@donjuanlucas01 Hi sir. Thanks for sharing. I have no previous experience. The switch appears in the diagram, you will see in the diagram which are the two electrical wires (color) that are permanently shorted (one of them goes up to the light on the dashboard). Check that the new switch is in the off position, then locate the two wires out of the three that remain electrically shorted. In the two shorted ones, the two colors at the new switch side that not important, the main thing is that they connect to the pair of wires shown in the diagram, which are also permanently shorted. And of course connect the "single" electrical wire to the third wire that still remains unconnected. Job done, isn't it?

@@pp-si2dm Hi sir. This is the least common case. So check the main seal on top again. In principle, the work requires a lot of knowledge, experience, ability, and special tools, so if you are not really into do-it-yourself, go to a licensed mechanic for repair. The rule is that both shock absorbers are repaired/renewed together. But due to budget considerations, etc., then it is possible to repair only the leaking shock absorber, but this is not recommended. Assuming the leak is from the 6 mm screw located below, I think there is a way to perform a local repair, that's how I'm guessing. It's without general disassembly of parts. Replace the screw and the copper ring, and put new fork oil from the cap located above... I think it's possible, but not recommended. By the way, you can also ask a mechanic for a cheap repair, usually without warranty, not every mechanic will agree, because it is not recommended. Proper shock absorbers are a matter of safety, make the repair properly, that's the best way. I share, only you know what is right and good for you.

@@felinefelyne As far as I know, the pipe is connected to the air box inlet before the air filter, I don't remember, because if it's after the air filter, then you have to find a matching part, otherwise unfiltered air enters the engine. This pipe is designed to absorb water oil vapors from the crankshaft, to prevent pollution of the environment.

@@mklimu God bless you too sir.

@@DontuseGoogleorWiki Yes, well done, I sometimes improvise too. In order for improvisation to be successful, a good understanding of mechanics is often needed, I assume that high ability is also related to seniority in the hobby of mechanics(D.I.Y).

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling 51 years 🔧 and counting 😉

@@PavolJanosik-k4m Hi sir. A malfunction of the kind: Light that turns on and off? It already happened to me with the cbr250r and the problem was a loose contact in one of the connectors. So i cleaning the connector with wd40 and air pressure spray to solved that problem. In your case, because the fault appeared while changing gears, the immediate suspicion falls on the gears sensor. You can try to clean it, or replace it with a new one.

@@PavolJanosik-k4m kzbin.info/www/bejne/jInadqODgdN5fsk&feature=shared

Yes, the shock absorber is the same for both models, the injected one and the one with the carburetor. A less viscous oil is possible, I'm not an expert on that subject, but as far as I understand, the amount is the same amount of oil. You can also change the pair of rear shock absorbers to softer ones.

Basically you are righ. But there is a difference between theory and practice. In practice, my measured blow did not cause any damage, and allowed me to continue the assembly process without wasting time and money waiting for a special insertion tool. It's called: The art of improvisation. Every mechanic knows what it is about. In the era of KZbin, you see how it's worked in reality. And of course you can sit on the mechanic's head, day and night, and watch him, and check that he does not deviate from the "accepted" methods, etc... If there is a mechanic who agrees to this, you will find that he is four times more expensive than the other good mechanics. Everyone makes their own decisions. There is no good or bad here.

Hi sir. Google couldn't translate for me, I didn't understand what your question was. Maybe you try it in English? Thank you very much

Good question. In the 1980s, they introduced a semi-automatic transmission to Volkswagen Beetle cars, and I don't recall any problems being discussed, but Volkswagen did not continue with it. Right now with Honda the opposite happened, maybe to reduce air pollution? If I'm not mistaken, they prefer to produce Cubs in the 110 cc. In the big motorcycles, they prefer a robotic transmission. And for the big scooters, a fully automatic transmission is put in: A Variator. So they probably know something that we don't, maybe there are a problems with the semi-automatic transmission that they didn't tell us about? Maybe the semi-automatic transmission is too good and hurts their profits? And It's possible without conspiracies, that Variator and the robotic transmission are simply better, especially the Variator. That's my guess, maybe I'm wrong.

You right. Professional channels have a professional photographer, sometimes an entire production team. My channel is operated by one person on a full volunteer basis. A hobby for leisure time. Sometimes the photos turn out better, and sometimes less well. And when the photography is not good it happens that I fix it in editing, or add a diagram, arrows, and animations. It's a hobby. It's fun, and a kind of knowledge sharing. Mostly partial knowledge, and not always correct knowledge, or in short: KZbin. It is what it is.

I don't know the Suzuki LT 80 model. According to Google it is an ATV without lighting of any kind. Switches similar to the one described in my video are sometimes repairable, and sometimes not.

I had a problem with the bearings. Access to the damaged bearings required complete disassembly of the engine.

Yes sir my bike is Hero Honda passion plus search in KZbin

Hi, and thanks for your support. Depends on how many kilometers the engine has passed, under what conditions. Oil loss is possible for several reasons. Shaft seals: The drive shaft, the gear lever shaft, and the kickstarter shaft. And oil loss is possible due to problems in the upper engine: Rings piston and cylinder, valve seals, engine head gasket, or lower cylinder gasket. And there are other gaskets that can lead to oil loss, regardless of the cylinder, for example, the gaskets in the valve covers. Sir, I am not a guide, I do not advise, I share knowledge, in the end only you know what is right to do for yourself.

​​@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling I understand. Another question, the cylinder should be rebored and honed when changing piston rings? Or if the cylinder measurements are within tolerance is not needed.

@@Brian-tl3py I didn't do honing myself. As far as I understand, the cylinder is measured with special and very accurate equipment, measured at three different depths, and at each depth two measurements are taken at a 90 degree difference. But even if the measurements fall within the range of the specification, a review must be made on the quality of the cylindrical surface. The surface should be even, and with fine scratches created by the honing device (you can search vid on KZbin and see). If we assume that the surface is even and the other dimensions are within the specification, but the surface is shiny, without the scratches, then it is necessary to sharpen the surface with a Honning device, and then see if after repairing the surface the other dimensions are still within the specification. Most of the time, and from what I know, whoever changes pistons and rings, also does honing. You do not hone a normal cylinder, and do not replace normal parts... Only you know what is needed in your case.

@@Brian-tl3py Reboring is done when the cylinder is in a really bad condition. The rebore is adjusted to an oversize piston. Enlarging the bore is done with a lathe, and the final finishing of the surface is done with the honing device.

Thank you sir🎉♥️👍

Hi. Yes, on top facing back. And sir I can't tell what your abilities are. So I re-mentions. It is important to remember that a do-it-yourself mechanic hobby is a very serious hobby that requires a lot of responsibility. Like any hobby, it costs money, and does not save money (the price of the tools, the price of the mistakes, the study time...). I think it is mandatory to bay the Haynes technical book. I'm just mentioning. The videos on KZbin do not cover all the required knowledge.

Thank you..I would like to get that Haynes manual..I am trying to learn how to do basic maintenance by myself little by little..For the more complex jobs I have a mechanic not too far away..Thanks again for your help@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling

Hi... And the other functions do work? Does the speed meter works? Maybe the connector of the speed sensor is disconnected? Or there is a break in the wires that lead to it. Maybe the VS sensor itself is failed. Have you tried checking if the engine computer has a DTC code related to your problem?

Dear Sir, if you have developed a style of changing gears, which is not affected by the auxiliary brake, then I understand there is no problem. But if you've already an opne case cover, then why not switch for new one? If the drum has already been damaged, then I would replace it as well. When metal touching metal then metal chips fly into the engine, and even then that's a reason to replace parts. It's not that I'm giving you advice, I'm just sharing what I thinking. Only you know what is good for you.

The transparent tube is designed to collect moisture and oil vapors that coming from the vent located in the crankcase breather. Without that tube, contamination will occur to the engine and the environment. The black rubber allows one-way passage. It allows the exit of water that has penetrated the air box, let's say as a result of heavy rain, or crossing a high puddle. On the other hand, it blocks the entry of unfiltered air into the engine. Without the rubber, unfiltered air will enter the engine.

@MyINNOVAMotorcycling i appreciate you thanks for knowledge i understand..i have buy that 2 parts shoppe so i will replace for more efficient..hope your carrier go more success my man

Hi sir, hello Indonesia. All major patents are now expired, today everyone is copying everyone else, and brand value is declining. The principles of quality engineering of the past, are the same principles, but all manufacturers try to lower costs, to compete for customers. In my understanding, this is a revolution led by the Chinese, the Chinese are experts in the cheapest and best quality relative to the money. Today all brands have aligned with the principle of "good value for money". Isn't it?

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling @MyINNOVAMotorcycling yes the quality lowered severely until recently, honda has launch their new chassis called esaf in their 110cc called honda beat and vario 160 scooter. Lot of in the internet found the chassis will split in half. We Indonesians tired with this and jokes this as a special feature from honda as their scooter is foldable 😂. Thanks for your helpful video i hope i can rebuild my 150.000 km old bike so i can keep stay away from brand new bike for their reliability issue.

@@adnanmizfary654 Everything has advantages and disadvantages. Of course you can buy premium 125 motorcycles and pay more. If you pay less then you get less. All brands are like that. If you repair an engine yourself, it also does not guarantee a more reliable engine than the one built at the factory. Faults are a static matter. It guarantees enjoyment and satisfaction if you like DIY. It's a nice hobby.

Sir thank you for sharing. Yes, this is a job that requires a relatively high skills. I failed the first time. The idea in DIY is not to save money, it's the enjoyment of the hobby. You pay money for hobbies, in this case the money for learning from your mistakes, or the money for special tools and so on. Do-it-yourself mechanics is a nice hobby, not the cheapest hobby, there are cheaper hobbies than that. Those who do not have time, or those who do not have the patience for this hobby, the cheapest for them is to go to a qualified mechanic that they trust on. In the case of the Innova front forks, sometimes it is cheaper to buy new ones than to repair the used ones, and then the whole job of replacing them is much less challenging, and a lot easier.

What was the issue? Did you fix itm

Hi YES at 7:21 NO at 7:36 It's nice that you noticed that, at 7:36 it's a mistake But not a mistake that has meaning. And as I will explain now: The ring from the brown material should be between two metal rings. So it possible as you see at 7:21 (between two metal rings) and at 7:33 (between two metal rings) And yes, in my case there are three rings, and there is the front ring at 7:33 That means four rings together (3 + the one at the front) These rings do not have a separate catalog number, but all four are shown in the exploded view. In my Honda's catalog parts there is no special explanation about a ring that is made of a different material (the brown ring), I first saw that brown ring when I disassembled the motor myself.

Hi. No, I don't have such a vid. You have to release the spring, then take out the other screw. 02:40 It's a ginnery stand, look for a vid, not necessarily a Honda, and you can see how to release that spring.

Thank you. The hardest part, as you say, is the spring release and replacing it. I left my Innova on it sidestand, came back and thought a car had hit it. I checked and the stand collapsed, damaging the front mudguard too as the steering lock was on! 😢 Fixed everything but the sidestand. Just waiting for parts.

@@pp-si2dm Yes, you describe an unfortunate case, and it's really sad. Sorry, but you didn't explain what exactly broke at your side stand. Are you sure the stand broke, maybe the car that hit the motorcycle caused the leg to fold back into place and no damage was done? Is the leg intact, or is the leg broken? The original spring is made of two springs, one internal, and the other external, are the two used springs currently in place? Maybe the bracket in the chassis was bent? Each of my questions will have a different fixing solution.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling HI, sorry, a long time to reply. However, I found out what actually happened what that my springs has failed! The bike hadn’t been knocked over at all. A lesson learnt! Check your springs!

Yes. Fillets of two types. the centrifugal, and the strainer. But it's not that they have a tendency to get dirty, it's more important to make sure the oil is of high quality. and apply more frequently change than the usual recommendation. Let's say once every one thousand kilometers instead of once every four thousand kilometers.

Thank you dear sir. The video was downloaded to KZbin before KZbin bot started planting automatically the details about the soundtrack inside the "video details" area. But I mention the names of the segments and the names of their performers at the end of the video. So you can browse them here: 2:52

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Fantastic thanks again👍

This could be a battery problem, and maybe a problem with the relay, sometimes a problem with the electrical wires, and sometimes with the starter motor itself. Start by test the battery. 12.7v no load More the 10v with starter load If you don't have enough knowledge on the subject, please go to a professional mechanic.