@@yamahatownmate8476 Hi sir Flywheel puller M30*1.5

@@rimazz Hi sir, and sorry, I don't remember, it was a long time ago. I'm guessing this is the recommended procedure in the Haynes manual. Lowering the wheel allows easy access to the three bolts below. And in terms of the tilt angle, only without a wheel you can tilt the mudguard and release it from the shock absorber. Isn't it? Please do not hesitate to contact a mechanic you trust on.

@@XDM_Studios Hi sir. The original is not expensive, you can buy a pack of them. Those(D.I.Y men) who learn to open the two plastic halves, and remove the mechanism carefully, without the mechanism disintegrating into all its small sub-parts, for them it is a very quick repair. After the third time it became a routine for me, and it stopped falling apart in my hand. After a lot of sanding/repair, I need to added a layer of tin to the contacts by soldering.

@MyINNOVAMotorcycling which original one are you using? My issue is I've modified my bike's brake system so I can't use the original because I've changed the system to an aftermarket brake clutch.

@@XDM_Studios I am first hand, and I still own the bike. On average my circuit breaker contacts require cleaning once a year. It doesn't make sense, it shouldn't be like this, but it's a fact: An oxide forms on the contacts that insulates the electrical contact. Maybe in the new ones they chose other materials for the contacts and it no longer happens with a psychic frequency of once a year🙂, but I got used to it and it's so easy to fix, so I'm still with the original part which is already 14 years old.

@XDM_Studios As for the Brake/Clutch kit, that sounds cool.I If the brake doesn't have an option for a brake light switch, then I would only focus on the clutch kit.

@@rymayuan Yes. 3:53 By Haynes manual book, P.2*6: 64Nm + Applay engine to threads and seating face oil P.2*31.

@@rymayuan Sir. Important NOTE: using a torque meter does not save you from the need to exercise judgment and caution. Otherwise you can damage the threads!!!

@@BohumirZamecnik The link below, start at 6 :2 4 kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqrNlaGwZtGCiMkfeature=shared

@@BohumirZamecnik It requires an inspection, it is possible that a set of rubbers needs to be replaced (6 rubbers, what you see in the attached link).

It's not exactly Honda Dream C100P, but very close. And the layout of the panel is rather similar. I was wondering how to remove the two side panels and didn't realize I have to remove the small front panel first. Thank you for a very comprehensive series! It's very meticulous. 😍🎉

@@parishm Hi sir. If you don't have a new part, and need a quick fix, then it turns out that this inexpensive item can be fixed. And this too, sharing on KZbin is a hobby, it's the filming, it's the editing, and it's information that people are interested in and previously couldn't get to. Today people watch KZbin according to interests, it is also a pastime for leisure time, a substitute for television. How come you watched this video?

@@BallHighlights Hi sir. In my opinion the patent should be the same patent, maybe even the same parts. But SORRY I'm not sure!!! Try to get a parts diagram for your model and look there, or ask your parts supplier.

@@sandeepsingh-bd1vh Hi sir. I'm not sure I understood your question. It's not possible to adapt a semi-automatic transmission to the engine when manufacturer makes NO design to that specific issue. In engine where the manufacturer attached a normal gear (full manual), there is not possible to make a change like you mention: It is not possible to plant a centrifugal clutch, etc.

@@marcuslima2535 Hi sir. You can buy a tool that fits to a small sizes. I chose to buy a cheap universal tool, then adapt it to my need by sanding and sharpening. As I demonstrated here: 5:45

@@taymingshu4330 Hi sir. You can try to fix it. It shouldn't happen, depends on what caused it to be released. Because maybe something is broken, not everything that is broken can be fixed by gluing. To open the odometer you need to be a good and experienced mechanic. I'll attach below a link to a videos from other channels, it doesn't fit the Innova model, but it's Honda's, and it's from the same year. So maybe you can get an idea of ​​the process, I think it should be similar for you as well.

@@taymingshu4330 kzbin.info/aero/PLjksoAp4z0aAnAysAchOoVKN9vFa377kT&feature=shared

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Thanks for your help even though at this time ☺️🙏🏽

Dear Sir I would like to inform you that I had the odometer fixed for less than $3 by neighborhood mechanic instead of replace a new one suggested by the Honda dealer for $100 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

@@Visong3 Hi sir. Unfortunately, not all the technical material is published. And if it is a model sold in small numbers, then it becomes almost impossible to find a technical book for it. As long as your model is a close relative of the Innova, then you can purchase the excellent book written by Haynes on the Innova. For most of the models sold from a series produced in certain years, it is possible to find a technical book for it, and since it is the same manufacturer with similar assemblies, often also a book of another model can help to understand a certain problem. And there are general technical books, it all depends on how deep you are in the hobby, and how much you want to learn.

@@1212CRMD Hi sir. It's a hobby. I loved making quick clips accompanied by a musical soundtrack. At the beginning of my journey on KZbin, I had the idea of ​​producing relatively short content. Today they opened new platforms for short videos, 60min. Today I would edit it differently, yes, less fast, more longer, without music at all, just with the original background noises.

@@TheManuele7878 Hi sir. I don't remember. All in all it is a family of generic scooters with similar performance. Because of the small engine and the weak power, it is not possible to reach more than 80-90 km/h with them, and this also depends on the strength of the wind, the direction of the wind (against, or behind), and it also depends on the slope of the road (uphill or downhill)... depends on your wight... These scooters are built to provide a transportation solution within the city, up to 60 km/h their acceleration is really good.

@@jasonbala8373 Hi sir. If the sealing surfaces were not damaged, and if you changed to a new o-rings, then NO additional sealing material is needed. Apply engine oil to the new o-rings.

@@taymingshu4330 Hi sir. Yes, sounds like you did the measurement correctly. Oil level is measured when the motorcycle is standing on the central stand, and when the motorcycle is on a level surface. The measurement is taken without screwing the stik gauge in, just placing the gauge on the opening. Regarding the mechanic, it is your duty to fully trust him, otherwise it is not good for you and not good for the mechanic. Mechanics need to know how to fix, they are not teachers. The mechanics' answers to customers are sometimes based on psychology, and not always based on mechanics. This is because it is important for the client to be calm and happy. Doctors also sometimes do the same for the same reason🤣🤦. Isn't it?

@@taymingshu4330 And there is also this: Checking the oil level is a routine matter. So it is good to check the oil level when you leave the mechanic, just as it is good to check it at least once a week, and the manufacturer recommends checking before every day of riding.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thanks for the reply and now I can sleep soundly 🤝🏼😁✌🏽💟🙏🏽

@@arjaytv1966 Hello sir. 2.7mm At time line 1:07

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thanks my motorcycle is honda wave dash do you think its the same thickness? because i bought a aftermarket 1 but the thickness is 3.0mm haha

@@arjaytv1966 To the best of my knowledge and understanding, in those years Honda created the same Cub model under two different names, the Wave was marketed in the East, and the Innova was marketed in the West, and the changes between the two models were very minor. To the best of my knowledge the two engines was the exact same engine model. 2.7mm is the thickness I measured on the used pads, and so is the thickness of the new original pads made by Honda. 2.7mm This is also the maximum thickness mentioned in the Haynes manual.

@@carlovelasco6343 4:36 Hi sir. It's been a long time. I only have drills in millimeter increments, starting with 2 mm, then 3, 4, etc... As far as I remember, it is an M3 screw so the drill was 2 mm in diameter. The motor body is made of aluminum, so a new and longer bolt than the original was able to penetrate the aluminum and produce a good grip(with help of wd-40).

@@donjuanlucas01 Hi sir. Thanks for sharing. I have no previous experience. The switch appears in the diagram, you will see in the diagram which are the two electrical wires (color) that are permanently shorted (one of them goes up to the light on the dashboard). Check that the new switch is in the off position, then locate the two wires out of the three that remain electrically shorted. In the two shorted ones, the two colors at the new switch side that not important, the main thing is that they connect to the pair of wires shown in the diagram, which are also permanently shorted. And of course connect the "single" electrical wire to the third wire that still remains unconnected. Job done, isn't it?

@@pp-si2dm Hi sir. This is the least common case. So check the main seal on top again. In principle, the work requires a lot of knowledge, experience, ability, and special tools, so if you are not really into do-it-yourself, go to a licensed mechanic for repair. The rule is that both shock absorbers are repaired/renewed together. But due to budget considerations, etc., then it is possible to repair only the leaking shock absorber, but this is not recommended. Assuming the leak is from the 6 mm screw located below, I think there is a way to perform a local repair, that's how I'm guessing. It's without general disassembly of parts. Replace the screw and the copper ring, and put new fork oil from the cap located above... I think it's possible, but not recommended. By the way, you can also ask a mechanic for a cheap repair, usually without warranty, not every mechanic will agree, because it is not recommended. Proper shock absorbers are a matter of safety, make the repair properly, that's the best way. I share, only you know what is right and good for you.

Thanks Tamir. Really appreciate your advice. I took it to a mechanic and they advice the bolt was loose. They checked it and now it’s leak free. I didn’t look simple as I watched the mechanic. Even with advanced tools it was still a lot of work!

@@felinefelyne As far as I know, the pipe is connected to the air box inlet before the air filter, I don't remember, because if it's after the air filter, then you have to find a matching part, otherwise unfiltered air enters the engine. This pipe is designed to absorb water oil vapors from the crankshaft, to prevent pollution of the environment.

@@mklimu God bless you too sir.

@@DontuseGoogleorWiki Yes, well done, I sometimes improvise too. In order for improvisation to be successful, a good understanding of mechanics is often needed, I assume that high ability is also related to seniority in the hobby of mechanics(D.I.Y).

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling 51 years 🔧 and counting 😉

@@PavolJanosik-k4m Hi sir. A malfunction of the kind: Light that turns on and off? It already happened to me with the cbr250r and the problem was a loose contact in one of the connectors. So i cleaning the connector with wd40 and air pressure spray to solved that problem. In your case, because the fault appeared while changing gears, the immediate suspicion falls on the gears sensor. You can try to clean it, or replace it with a new one.

@@PavolJanosik-k4m kzbin.info/www/bejne/jInadqODgdN5fsk&feature=shared

Yes, the shock absorber is the same for both models, the injected one and the one with the carburetor. A less viscous oil is possible, I'm not an expert on that subject, but as far as I understand, the amount is the same amount of oil. You can also change the pair of rear shock absorbers to softer ones.

Basically you are righ. But there is a difference between theory and practice. In practice, my measured blow did not cause any damage, and allowed me to continue the assembly process without wasting time and money waiting for a special insertion tool. It's called: The art of improvisation. Every mechanic knows what it is about. In the era of KZbin, you see how it's worked in reality. And of course you can sit on the mechanic's head, day and night, and watch him, and check that he does not deviate from the "accepted" methods, etc... If there is a mechanic who agrees to this, you will find that he is four times more expensive than the other good mechanics. Everyone makes their own decisions. There is no good or bad here.

Crank installation and removal tools are basic shop equipment. If you don't have the equipment to do a job like that you shouldn't be doing it in the first place. Just like opinions I'm an asshole ;-) or something like that lol