What happened

Sorry mate , don’t explain just do itRegards Ed

Nice video, helped me out. My log splitter wouldn't retract. My issue from watching your video was the valve tip not broken. It was the piece on the valve after the tip that you showed in the video that moves. Mine was froze. cleaned it up, works like new.

After years of losing sockets when they drop down into the engine, I have developed a personal system of tearing off a bit of gaffer tape and sticking it onto the socket so that it remains safely on the extension … saves a lot of heartache.

A thomb for you 👍 😉

Thanks a lot for the quality video with the lots of details! I've just picked up a Bosch sensor (0281004027-BSC), I think thats the original part. I hope it will fit in the plastic bracket at the connector. Going to replace it in the weekend. I kept postponing the replacement. I was getting P2A00 a couple of times during last year, sometimes cruise control turned off, sometimes I got the MIL light on. Usually it dissapeared after deleting the trouble code, maybe cleaning would have sufficed, but thats less fun, than replacing. Hopefully my fuel consuptoin will also get better a bit.

Muchas gracias por el video ! Consulta , en imagen el zeiss es muy superios a los tento o son similares! Mughas gracias ! Saludos!

Just found your video and its very helpfull (my Hyundai is a 1.4 petrol reg number EF61*** but in white !!! )

I recently got myself a pair of 7x35. The thing itself is quite beaten, the paint is peeling everywhere, the metalic covers have their fair share of nicks on the edges, they were quite dirty on the outside and there's mold on the inside, it's missing the sling and one of the sling rings and the screws are a little rusty. Also, the rivets on the leather case are all rusty, so it's safe to say that they lived a hard life. Still, they remain perfectly collimated and give a very sharp image.

Had the same issue with my Qashqai with 2.0l dci 150bhp. Changed the MAP sensor and jobs a good en! Video has been on youtube for 4 years and you’re still saving the day! Thanks for your help,

Hello mate glad you like the video…… I try to be realistic and not too produced and pretentious…. Have you cleaned your mass airflow sensor? I replaced mine in the end found one on Amazon in a damaged box cheap difference was huge….. cheers……Trevor

Superb 🎉 I’ve just replaced all suction red green valves etc but not got no acceleration although revs great under no load ! I’m sure this deffo problem … love your description etc .. especially dropping stuff !, I do that all the time.. good to see UK video Many thanks ❤

If you push that perforated tube part, it's spring loaded. Maybe that is the pressure relief valve. The bottom part that unscrews is just so you can drain the housing before removing it, if you want to. I hope your video has prompted people contemplating this oil change to equip themselves with the correct tool for a few quid!

I'm confused by the third digit in the serial number referring to the month of manufacture. How would November or December be indicated?

Well done Sir ! What about the mileage please? My Yaris has 175 tkm and occurs a noise, randome, from the waterpump pulley.

Thanks for sharing!!!

Thank you! A great and informative video.❤

Hi folks, I’m late to this but I’ve just got a Tento 20x60 and using it for the first time in the back garden the near focus is limited, I obviously need to test in a bigger distance. Out of interest does anyone know what the near focus limit is? Also the focus wheel doesn’t have a lot of movement in it. It’s smooth and has a definite “stopping point” so I don’t think it’s stuck as such. I mention this as I’ve also got a Tento 7x35 (lovely bright clear bin) which has a lot more range of motion in the focus.

😊 good job 👍

Did this fix the woble problems for you ? also have a qasqai with this issue and replaced both drive axle and it dint fix the problem if i checked the baljoints and strutbearing seam to be oke

Mine smoking is it possible ecu i change i change engine but the same

Nice job, was it hard inserting the axel with the engine mount on it? I’m finding it doesn’t want to go in, did you use a mallet on the end?

Did you have, or could it be causing, a tic-tic-tic noise when cold and under load (accelerating, uphill etc) ? Both my boots were ripped and I have the typical knocking when turning and accelerating, but I also have cold start ticking that I cannot seem to find the source for. I cannot hear any noise stationary, so I'm figuring if it could be related to the drive shafts.... (I will be replacing the drive shafts on both sides in a near future)

Hi - great series of videos. I have an Al-Ko on which I need to replace the seal/aluminium housing. As I undid the bolts at the lever end, the shaft and spring assembly sprang out as under tension. Any idea how to refit the shaft and spring? I see no easy way to put it back under tension.

Thank u no one makes videos on these

Short and sweet! Thanks mate.

Having real trouble getting the two bolts in the back on. They dont want to thread on at all. Any suggestions? I have tried moving the knuckle about to get it into place but they just dont want to go in. I have also tried putting the ball joint in first and jacking the arm up but still no luck. Any help appreciated 👍

Thanks for this. I have a 2008 T31 Xtrail reading: ''P2A00 [0x2A00] Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - circuit range/performance Status: Confirmed'' With MIL Light on dash. I think this is the exact same sensor as you have in this video isn't it? I'm worried as I know there are two. Thanks for the socket drive tip too I'll order one.

I had kinda similar issue with my log splitter.. The log splitter went just fine to one direction, but didn't come back, or in best case it came back extremely slow. And also after the first push the splitter didn't need the lever on the left hand side at all to move - it moved just by pressing the engine button on the right hand side. I fixed this by making sure the spring at the end of the valve was properly in position. It was for some reason loose, and didn't move the valve back up after pushing it down.

Did you have to weld the end piece on also?

Hi, how did you compress the spring/piston to put it back in ? DO you have a video doing that or pictures?

Is the Engine a petrol 2.0lt or 2.5lt and what was the part number for the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer?

Thank you for this video!

Hello Happyantix (Like the user name!) To be honest I called up our local car parts suppers APD and Titan motor factors and this the one in stock they quoted against the Registration No of the car....As I say in the Video I would stick to OEM brands like Bosch, NTK(NGK), Denso etc... rather than a cheap no brand thing from eBay/elsewere...any reputable on-line supplier like Eurocar parts or GSF should have them.... maybe Autodoc are quoting £66.00 for NGK at time of writing..... another thing a 22 mm crows foot wrench will remove the probe too, you can get a cheap set of them off ebay, which would have other uses in the future....Cheers...Trevor

Is thr ntk lambda sensor just a generic part or is there a particular part number for the xtrail t31 diesel? Cheers

Pretty Good Video now i know what to do with the white glass clips i will do it on my Ford Fiesta from 2001 but i have the manually regulator.The same thing happend to my i wanted to close the window and the cable snatched back and drestroyed there was so much rust on it.I hope i can do it i fix it tomorrow :D Greetings from germany buddy!

Thank u...i think i have found the issue with mine...trouble is do i risk driving 300 miles as the garage has no space to fit me in?

kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5O2aWx9m6ignpI I think i fixed it 👍 thank you for telling its ECU

Thank you the video♥

Спасибо огромное ❤

Really glad i came across this video. Our 2010 xtrail had sudden loss of power, limp mode home. sent into local garage who only cleared codes then sent it back to us, no work done just a bill of £42. Guess what happened, yep lite back on. Informed garage, soonest available slot 3wks time! We found this video and ordered a turbo boost valve control arrived in 1 day. it was a simple fit, fitted it, neighbour had a code reader and cleared the code. however lite reappeared almost instantly. smoke test then carried out at home to reveal no leaks from pipes or connections. We then ordered a MAF from AMZ and a code reader, 2 days arrived. read code, replaced maf, cleared code. Very happy to say back on road and performance back to normal. A very big thank you to the video host and the help provided. code reader £27 turbo boost valve control £45 Maf £29 keep rolling every one. 🙂

Hey can you show my your ignition switch wiring? Like what wires go to what prong?

I have I30, 2013. So no need to jack up the car?

I had trouble getting the ball joint back in. Ended up giving up and calling mechanic! Also found the aftermarket lower control arms didn’t last long before bushing became worn again.

How hard is it to get the new cable back up into the rear seat area?

P R O M O S M 🍀

Hello Keith.... I suspect your problem is in the portafilter as they are a pressured unit, there is a tiny hole in the bottom of the unit the coffee goes though, pull the strainer out using a small spoon on the little tab on the side of the strainer, give it a poke the hole out and put it back together, should be good to go. I have moved to an after market unpressurised portafilter which don't suffer the problem but can be a bit mucky.... All the best ....Trevor

Hi, I have one of these machines (DeLonghi ECI341.W) and its been working beautifully. Until this morning I overfilled the coffee holder. Now it struggles to pump water. Is there a quick fix for this problem? Thanks Keith

Hi thanks for this video as I changed spark plugs on my mrs car is a corsa I used 16mm sockets to take out the plugs. But for Yaris I didn’t know u required 14mm 🤦🏾‍♂️ I feel bit stupid to say the least.

Hi sir I'm auto micahnic Diesel in pitrol u help me