Didn't notice much of an increase in sound since the exhaust was so loud inside the car.

Good question. I didn't know. I just now measured to compare. The 850W fan is about 1/4" wider around the rim of the fan but the center hub sticks out about the same. The 600W fan spokes taper narrower toward the outer rim, the spokes on the 850W fan are straight and do not taper.

Yes, third set. The wastegate disc came off on the Pures which they repaired for free. The other problem with the twin turbos are that the wastegate actuator bracket start to bend back once you boost over 20 psi or so. This happened to both the pures and the vivs. Ended up sliding spacers behind the brackets while in place. Have fun with the e92!

Thanks Roy, yes for some reason braking way early didn't seem to hurt my time that much on this track. This set of Carbotech were causing some bad brake shutter. Didn't have that problem on other tracks with less braking demand. I have some PFC-08 ready to go in once I get some new rotors.

Yes that's right. I save data from the Race Chrono phone app and combine the data with the MHD log data using HP Tuners Race Render Software. Thanks for your interest!

Thanks! Sorry to hear about the spun bearing. I'm running carbotech xp20 front xp12 rear with Motul 660 fluid. Running a #2 meth nozzle, no misfires noted with this small a size.

@@DailyDriverTracking Nice, I run PFC 08s. Do you got an IG I can follow?

@@neilpatel728No IG but here's the video where I replaced the con rod bearings without removing the engine from the car. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e53OdmmNaa-FqJI

Sorry I don't have a build thread for the LPFP. It's been working well on track but I don't go below 1/4 tank. No port, too much power for my auto trans. To control the auxiliary LPFP I use a 8psi pressure switch (snow performance type) to control a 40a relay which supplies 12v power to the pump when on boost. I burnt one pressure switch out before I added the relay, now the pressure switch only controls the relay so no big current draw across the pressure switch. I originally had a gasoline leak from the bolts added as electrical terminals on the top hat of the fuel pump. The leak was fixed by adding some Hylomar sealant on top of the bolt terminals. Thanks for your interest, hope this answers your questions.

@@DailyDriverTracking Thanks for the response. Did you need that much fuel pump for your power or was your goal to just do it once and build it so it was capable of handling more power? I assume you're on a stock HPFP? Reason for asking - I have a 450lpf LPFP and am thinking of upgrading but concerned about fuel starvation with an in tank dual pump setup and thinking of moving to a surge tank setup instead.

@@Itsmike.d I heard that the EKP can go bad with some lpfp upgrades so I went with a the parallel system as it has a separate electrical system. The Radium surge tank system looks like a good call, it was not available when I upgraded mine but I may have gone with that if it was available. It looks like they address the additional current issue as well as the leaky screw terminals.

Cobb with catless downpipes.

Thanks for sharing that option. The large relay really draws a lot of current when the car is sitting.

Where did you get that smaller relay

2:44

Actually nevermind since mine is off a 335is it plugs into the power distribution with 125 fuse. The plug closest to the gas cap

@@georgestinnett4367 The purpose of the main relay could be to cut power to the fan if the PWM Arduino fails. ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1906766-variable-speed-pwm-fan-control-under-25-less-diy-10.html#post20316431

Thanks for your review!

Thanks man! It's a good time for me.

Seems like they ground down some sharp bumps, filled and repaved over the cracks. The large dips in and after turn 8 are still there. Running without the front swaybar this time eliminated understeer around turn 2 but I was bottoming on the large dips going around 8 which made be back off some. Some of the guys that were running there said their time improved about 2 seconds.

Yes it seems to drop a bit on left turns. My oil system is stock. Thanks for comment and your interest.

@@DailyDriverTracking I'm still yet to try my N54 (135i) at the track, I'm a bit scared to find out that by myself ahah You've got the NEXSYS sensor kit right?

@@FactionGreen Yes I have the Nexsys kit for the MHD custom tune. So far no major problems with the crank or rod bearings. Blew one set of turbos and lost a waste gate disc on another set of turbos. I'm on my third set of turbos and second set of pistons. Everything else is holding together tho.

@@DailyDriverTracking Wondering if you've got any accusump system or something like that. Took my car to the track 2 weeks ago and I was seeing a lot of dips during hard-braking zones and specifically if I was braking hard and turning left afterwards. I kept seeing it coming down to as low as 30psi and I got a bit scared to be honest ahah As you might have seen on some forums, there's a lot of people complaining about the same and I'm just looking at your video and wondering "did this guy get an upgraded oil pan from the factory or what?" 🤣

@@FactionGreen My oil pan and sump are stock. Don't really have an explanation for why my oil pressure is not affected that much by the gforces. I do have three oil cooler inline. When I drain everything the car takes about 10qts.

Yeah I'm glad! I didn't want to add aftermarket baffles or anything unless I needed to.

It felt like 140. The BMW went into a 4 wheel drift once in the middle of 8 it scared me enough to slow down a bit.

@joelpierce3940 John Maher had his girl friend press on the brakes while he loosened the crank bolt. Check out his video kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipDdeIGMe6qArJY Hope this helps, thanks for your interest.

I heard the C5 is a good platform. It would be interesting to find out how that works for you. Hagedorn Racing ran a 1:54 at Chuckwalla with his front sway bar disconnected on a solid axel mustang. That's crazy fast for a 5th gen mustang. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6SbdYqGa9h6a5o

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJfapHZ9npmrma8 This video shows the location on the 335d relay but it's a bit hard to see at (9:03). Found my relay in the DME box in front of the DME. Mine was blue plastic. Other models may have them here? www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts-list/2007-bmw-335i-sedan_e90/vehicle_electrical_system/relay_electric_fan.html?pnc=01. I piggy backed the new relay by hooking it to the old fan wires. Power is constant to the existing wires so best to disconnect battery ground before doing any work. I used a piece of 1/16 thick 1"x1" aluminum angle to hard mount the new relay.

That's great. Yes, the current for the 850 watts is sent through the large terminal of the new 150a relay. The small connector sees minimal current as it just controls the switch actuation of the relay. So the 16g wires should be fine.

Thanks for your gracious comments. This is my most recent project along with increasing the size of my aux radiator. I ran into some limp mode problems at Chuckwalla recently so I'm trying to address this issue again. I did some weight reduction by installing Cobra Nogaro seats, sun roof delete, and rear seat delete. Gutting the car is not on the radar but I'm looking at other weight saving options ie hood and trunk. That's it for now but I have a hard time leaving stuff alone, haha!

@@DailyDriverTracking I've been brainstorming about how I'm going to keep my E90 cool when I finally buy and inevitably track it. Some solutions I've seen consist of retrofitting the S55 charge cooler (Seems Legit Garage), running dual setrab oil coolers in parallel w/ shrouds, custom Plazmaman tube-fin intercooler kits, meth along with E85, auxiliary radiator, and a few others. Weight was a minor concern, as long as I can reach 3300lbs with me in it, I'll be happy. I've also heard about oil starvation/pressure drop but plumbing an accusump from the trunk might help. Lol these project cars are all a deep end but when they work they're incredible.

@mowjinkaljibal Thanks for your comments, you know where my help comes from. I looked into what you heard. Seems to be a lot of factors to consider in determining whether a stronger fan will help at track speeds. One reason I chose to do this upgrade is that this same fan was used by the factory to increase the cooling on the n54 for the 335is and the 1 series M. But like you I'm a bit skeptical. We'll see how it works out when we go back to Chuckwalla in 90 degree heat.

@@DailyDriverTrackingdid you get tune?

@@ricolam4916 Yes, MHD custom tunes from Wedge Performance.

@Bahy Amir no issues so far. DIY transmission cooler keeps temps in check. Whp around 450 may be helping to avoid problems also.

With great power comes great responsibility! Haha!

@KDinoso Thanks for the feedback! I'll put a walkaround on my to do list.

Thanks John!

Thanks! Edward gave me some good tips that should help with that. Thanks for introducing me to him.

@crooked roads What comes to mind is a custom tune for track driving. If you haven't already let your tuner know you plan to take it to the track. Hopefully he will know how to flatten the torque curve to make the car easier to accelerate out of corners. This will also benefit the reliability of the car. In a 4th gear log check every cylinder for timing pulls. There should be none. If you check back on my videos you will see a track day at ACS where timing was pulling badly mostly in 4th gear. This was an indication I was getting detonation that destroyed my cylinder 3 piston ring lands, thus forged pistons now. For suspension setup & handling mods I would just copy Alex Bernstein's e92 set up. Most importantly note the track alignment and wheel tire setup (edited - since you modified the fenders to fit the larger wheel tire set up). An e90 may have a lot of understeer with a staggered wheel set up and without maxing out negative camber in the front. www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26892078&highlight=camber#post26892078 Hard braking will benefit from Carbotech brake pads. I use XP20 front and XP12 rear. Have fun! I really like your engine set up.

@@DailyDriverTracking exactly why I looked to you for advice, thank you so much for your time! and I really hope to see you and your car in action soon.

@@crooked_roads Yeah me too. I really like your rear fenders. Is that a kit? Thanks for the kind words.

@@DailyDriverTracking my car has a lot of custom body pieces that sort of resemble oem, the rear fenders began as Hard Motorsport wide fenders but went through a lot of modification to fit like oem!

Diogo, yeah I should make a video explaining the process it's very evolved but I'll try and briefly explain the process. The first obstacle is to get the OBD K+DCAN cable to your phone to work with all the vibration and gforces. I made a homemade connector for my phone that actually bolts on. My tablet is another set up I used where I actually soldiered the wires from a DCAN cable on the usb socket of the tablet since it had a second usb socket for power. Wireless has not worked for me. I bought the new MHD universal wireless adapter but it dropped the signal, same as the older one. I had some success using the CHENYANG Ultra Mini DM Micro USB 5pin OTG Adapter Connector with the K+DCAN cable as I use an android phone. I use two phones, one for the lap timer (Harry's or Race Chrono) and one for the MHD data. For some that may not know this... In order to select the specific data in the "options" section of your MHD monitoring, you may need to deselect the data you do not need. MHD will only record a set number of data types about two more than the default. So say if you want oil temp, trans temp and speed you may have to deselect "Boost target and/or something else. Hope this helps, have fun in real time!

Thanks Tommy. Yes I have thought about doing the rears. The rears have a double wall so I haven't figured out an easy way to do that. Some have left extra material on the inner skin to make tabs to bend over and weld to the outer skin. Others have cut both the inner and outer skins even and fabricated a piece of sheet metal to bridge the gap between them. Again, welding would be required. I suppose one could bridge the gap between the inner and outer skins with riveted aluminum pieces by cutting the inner skin shorter than the outer. The vertical wheel well arch could be salvaged as on the front and one might be able to rivet it on to the same aluminum pieces that are holding the inner and outer fenders together.

@@DailyDriverTracking Yeah it seems like the rear will be a little more complicated. If you do end up doing something to the rear it will be interesting to see what you come up with. Also have you considered adding any aero bits to the car to give it some downforce?

@@tommybenson5472 In addition to the newly installed front air dam I made a rear diffuser from aluminum sheet. It would only work with straight pipes. The straight pipes were too loud so I'll have to modify it once I get my new Cobb exhaust.

Thanks, It's just the stock exhaust with an aftermarket X pipe in track mode.

@@DailyDriverTracking and the X pipe is? thanks.

@@nashgrg1523 It was the cheapest one I could find. It had flanges, used stock gaskets and had a single X. Can't remember the brand. Looked like Billy Boat.

Unfortunately I have no way of monitoring oil pressure but haven't had any issues that I know of. I replaced the crankshaft bearings when I installed the Mahle pistons a couple years ago. I used WPC treated stock bearings. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/e53OdmmNaa-FqJI @9:25) Thanks for your interest.

Haha! You apparently know what an amazing feat it is to have one actually running on the track! I don't have an Instagram, sorry.

Yes it was great meeting you too! Maybe I'll sign on with your driving instructor next time.

Thanks Javier!

Mine was not a z07. I no longer have the car. Can you see the part numbers on your 19? It may already have the FE7 springs. The parts supplier with the best descriptions that I found were on www.gmpartsbin.com/. Rear Leaf Spring - GM (23344287) - Corvette. With z06, grand sport. Auto trans. With performance. (FE6) Rear Leaf Spring - GM (23344288) - Corvette. With z06, grand sport. Manual trans. With performance. (FE6, FEA) Rear Leaf Spring - GM (23344290) - Corvette. With z06, grand sport. Manual trans. Without performance. (FE7) Rear Leaf Spring - GM (23344289) - Corvette. With z06, grand sport. Auto trans. Without performance. (FE7) Front Leaf Spring - GM (84144988) - Corvette. With z06. Manual trans. (FE7) Front Leaf Spring - GM (84144987) - Corvette. With z06. Auto trans. Heavy duty. (FE7) Front Transverse Leaf Spring - GM (22892342) - Corvette. With z06. Auto trans. Ride & handling. (FE6)

Thanks Roy, new rubber helped.

I think that was Jack. He was one of the instructors. I did notice the momentary downshift coming out of turn 2 occasionally. In the past it's usually in the correct gear going into and coming out of the turns. I may have to adjust the shift rpm.

Thanks Morgan!

I hope all works well for you. Thanks for the comment!

Nice! Does the LG kit delete the oil to water oil cooler? For your level of driving you may need an oil to air set up if ambient temp get over 100. Have fun! I think you'll be a bit faster in the Z06!

40-50whp is a pretty significant gain for a few hours of work.

@@alexdubois8525 the juice is not worth the squeeze!

Actually, 40-50 whp is about as far as i would upgrade a 2015 Z06 that isn’t tracked or dragged. I do not think i would undergo this myself though because a tune is needed and i don’t have an HPC tuner.

@@knjpollard Or you can upgrade your outdated cooling system to the 2019 setup which alleviates any overheating issues by a large margin. Or go cheek coolers from LG and never worry about it again. Pop a magnuson 2650 on and your manifold temps will drop under WOT. If you want extra power you need extra cooling.

@@knjpollardhis is a 2019. The latest cooling